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About silverwingit

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  • Birthday July 4

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Montrose, CO
  • Interests
    Boxes, Pouches, Cases, Holsters & Belts

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Leather accessories for musicians
  • Interested in learning about
    Extending my hand and machine stitching techniques
  • How did you find
    advice on internet
  1. Very nice tooling! Is the concho function or decorative? Looks good whatever it is. Thanks, Michelle
  2. I have a pretty intense dislike for Acrylic Resolene, beyond the fact that I don't care for the way it can make project look so shiny (undiluted). Depending on your finish, AR can be a disaster. I used it over antiquing once and it dissolved the antique paste and ruined my project. I'll never use it again. Other people swear by it but I prefer Bag Kote. Michelle
  3. On matching shades... +1 on needing not only the same hide but taken from the same part of the hide and split down. Leather more towards the belly will take dye differently than back or neck leather. Also, +1 on diluting. That's the only way so control the shade unless you want your products to be very dark. Lastly, I find that I get my best results by letting the dye completely soak the leather. Fewer issues when finishing edges and the only way I've found to ensure uniformity of shade. I leave my workpieces to soak until they quit bubbling. I use Pro Oil dye. It takes a few hours to dry before I can continue working, but overnight works best. If I do these things I can count on the shades of the different pieces of leather that make of a project to be the same. Michelle
  4. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I made a two-sided wood strop with horse butt and put the grain side out. Now no matter what I do it won't take or keep polishing compound. I wish I'd have made it flesh side out. I've sanded it with coarse sandpaper and that helps but my little belly leather strop with the flesh side out works much better. In fact, I am just about ready to make a new flesh side out horsehide strop out of frustration. Michelle
  5. Antique paste or gel.
  6. One thing about backstitching. If your machine doesn't put the needle in the exact same holes, all manner of ugly stitches can result, especially on the underside. My Cobra 4 has a longer backstitch than its forward stitch. For a long time I didn't know why my backstitches were so gnarled and protruding. I don't go to Michael's length to finish by hand. I'm lazy and I get better results using the machine to maintain its tension. I get my best results by backstitching without the machine's motor using the hand wheel and lifting the foot to position the needle to be spot-on the same holes created by the forward stitches. Another option is what you'd have to do if your machine didn't have a reverse stitch. Lift the foot (while the needle is down, after the stitch is competed) and manually turn the workpiece around and forward stitch. That will put what are now the backstitches in those same holes. Michelle
  7. In a word, Wowza! Chief, you would be doing all (well most all) of us a big favor if you'd make a detailed video of your different basketweave stamping methods. Your work is textbook perfect. In fact, better yet, you should write a book! Michelle
  8. The elastic strips I'm aware of are woven from thread wound around elastic "strings." So there are many little rubber threads running throuh them. Cut a strip apart to see what I mean. Michelle
  9. Just good, clean impressions on well-cased, high quality natural color vegetable tanned steer hide. Michelle
  10. Stitch it on. Works for me. But you need to stretch it out first or it won't want to "shrink" to fit. Michelle
  11. Forget stitching wheels and awls, especially for a beginner. Not necessary if you use a Japanese-style stitching chisel. Much quicker, easier and more regular on the front and back. It takes a lot of skill to use an awl. That requires lots pf practice. You can start using stitching chisels immediately. Nigel reviews a bunch. I like Seiwas. They are good quality and inexpensive. You can get a full set for half the price of a single European pricking iron and they punch all the way through the leather instead of just marking hole locations. This is a good company to deal with. I haven't used an awl in a long time except when the leather I am stitching is thicker than the length of the Seiwa chisel's tines. Then I just use it to penetrate the leather fully by extending the depth of the chisel holes. A bit of time taken polishing the chisels makes them even easier to use. I really like my CS Osborne palm awls. Great little chuck and nice feel to the handles. Also inexpensive. I actually like to use them better than my Barry King awl handle which is a full-on work of art. I stitch wet-formed pouches and need to get right next to the side of the protruding pouch. The CS Osborne palm awl haft's chuck is smaller than Barry's and let's me do that without marking the protruding pouch. The next thing you should get is some Tiger thread. I'll leave that up to you. Michelle
  12. Kipskin. 2/3 oz. and very smooth. Michelle
  13. I use a Dayton belt/disc sander from Zoro tools. Under $200. I've used Dayton power tools for decades. They are affordable and long-lasting. Several cuts above Black & Decker. Michelle
  14. Built your own CNC mill? You are a "Builder of Stuff" indeed! I just bought a Harbor Freight mini hydraulic shop press specifically for pressing my maker's mark. My 1/2-ton arbor press just wasn't cutting it for the chrome-tan leather I've been using because I have to keep it under pressure for the impression to hold. Been working great. It also has the capacity to make larger impressions. Thanks for the reply, Chris. Michelle