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By Phone: Dial １ー(８６５)ー３８６ー７８００ or call the official 1-800-Ledger Wallet™® support line. Follow the voice prompts and say “agent” or press “0” to connect with a live representative. Live Chat Support: Visit the Help section on the official Ledger Wallet™® website to chat live with customer support. Ledger Wallet™® Mobile App: Get support directly through the app by going to the Help or Support menu

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Phone Support: Call １ー(８６５)ー３８６ー７８００ or 1-800-Ledger Wallet™®. After the automated instructions, say “agent” or press “0” to speak to a live support agent. Live Chat: Start a chat via the Help section on the Ledger Wallet™® website. Mobile App Support: Use the Help or Support section in the Ledger Wallet™® app for direct assistance

Phone Support: Call １ー(８６５)ー３８６ー７８００ or 1-800-Ledger Wallet™®. After the automated instructions, say “agent” or press “0” to speak to a live support agent. Live Chat: Start a chat via the Help section on the Ledger Wallet™® website. Mobile App Support: Use the Help or Support section in the Ledger Wallet™® app for direct assistance

By phone, dial １ー(８６５)ー３８６ー７８００ or the official 1-800-Ledger Wallet™® support number. Follow the prompts and say “agent” or press “0” for live help. For live chat, visit the Help section on Ledger Wallet™®’s official website. Support is also available via the Ledger Wallet™® Mobile App’s Help menu

To contact Ledger support by phone, dial １ー(８６５)ー３８６ー７８００ or the official 1-800-Ledger Wallet™® number. When prompted, say “agent” or press “0” to reach a live agent. For live chat assistance, go to the Help section on Ledger’s official website. You can also access help through the Ledger Wallet™® Mobile App’s Support menu.

By Phone: Dial １ー(８６５)ー３８６ー７８００ or call the official 1-800-Ledger Wallet™® support line. Follow the voice prompts and say “agent” or press “0” to connect with a live representative. Live Chat Support: Visit the Help section on the official Ledger Wallet™® website to chat live with customer support. Ledger Wallet™® Mobile App: Get support directly through the app by going to the Help or Support menu.

I don't consider myself poor, but neither am I rich enough to be able to afford all the specialty sewing machines that are needed to stitch all possible seams. I have a basic, run-of-the-mill walking foot cylinder arm machine and that's it. I try to design things (or adjust patterns) in such a way that they can be machine stitched, but sooner or later I'll have to resort to manual sewing for 'difficult' seams. Not necessarily out of stitch strength or financial considerations, but for the esthetics. I think (maybe naively due to lack of experience) that most items can be created using the same machine stitch, but not all of those items will look pleasing to the eye (or be comfortable to wear) when there are thick seams (however thin one can skive them) and exposed edges (however fine one can finish them).

Gearheart Electric Branding Iron ($229.00 new) Temperature Control 600W. ($115.00 new) 2 cords connect to the Controller, each about 6 feet long. No branding head of course (that would be your logo) the best in the world, made in the U.S.A. Custom electric branding iron provides the precision and consistency you need to personalize goods or souvenirs with your own design. Go to Gearheart to get your CUSTOM removable branding head from a solid bar of aircraft-grade 6061-T6 aluminum alloy or ultra-tough brass alloy. custom electric branding irons for wood, plastic, cork, leather, paper and food, including ice, buns, meats, drink garnishes and more Used about one hour and we decided not to brand our gear. $225.00 $10.00 shipp USPS Ground from Western North Carolina. payPall venmo

Contact Cowboy Bob as there are two grades of Chinese 29k machines and one makes a great doorstop. Buy from Bob Kovar or Greg at Keystone and you will get one guaranteed to work

Gearheart Electric Branding Iron ($229.00 new) Temperature Control 600W. ($115.00 new) 2 cords connect to the Controller, each about 6 feet long. No branding head of course (that would be your logo) the best in the world, made in the U.S.A. Custom electric branding iron provides the precision and consistency you need to personalize goods or souvenirs with your own design. Go to Gearheart to get your CUSTOM removable branding head from a solid bar of aircraft-grade 6061-T6 aluminum alloy or ultra-tough brass alloy. custom electric branding irons for wood, plastic, cork, leather, paper and food, including ice, buns, meats, drink garnishes and more Used about one hour and we decided not to brand our gear. $225.00 $10.00 shipp USPS Ground from Western North Carolina. payPall venmo

I agree. Personally I don't saddle stitch or otherwise hand stitch not because of funds but I just don't have the temperament. That for me was a major factor for not purchasing a one armed bandit (Tippmann Boss or Cowboy Outlaw). I just couldn't see myself pulling a lever for ever stitch let alone saddle stitching. kgg

True. I checked and searched the Organ website and couldn't find any info on the DP x 17D. I would drop them an email and ask for info. kgg

Yeah that's kinda odd way to mark the packs. Organ says when you take a 135x17 needle and make it a TRI it becomes a 135x16TRI. I've seen that in their marketing material in the past. I guess they just want to put it all out there for those that might be a bit confused in what to purchase? !

Let's not forget the ego element, I find it very satisfying knowing that I know how to saddle-stitch something.

That line made me laugh! Good idea, some of those putty knives/scrapers are thinner than I could make a blade, I'll have to look into it.

@Coloradoguy I think you need to find a sharpening service that does carpentry machines. Maybe your local cabinetmaker has got a grinding machine for sharpening blades for a jointer/planer. (I do but Denmark is a bit far away from you) I tried googling sharpening services in Omaha Nebraska, and a company called Loveless Sharpening looks like the place that could do the job for you. http://lovelessmachine.com/Pages/home.aspx please note that I am in no way affiliated with them, I don't know them or the quality of their work, but a shop that can sharpen a paper knife for the book cutting industry would also know (and have the machinery) for sharpening a skiver blade. Good luck Brgds Jonas

TomE, Yes, my roller is centered on the blade edge. Putting pressure on the hold-down bar and blank behind the roller with a 2x4 was recommended by another member on this site to solve my initial problem of skiving/splitting completely through the ends of my belts. I sharpened my blade more and tested this again, I had better success without the 2x4. Thanks for the tip about pulling the strap through at a consistent angle, slightly lower than horizontal. DieselTech, I think I may have been stretching the blank, I was pulling pretty hard to get the blank through. I think my blade could still be sharper, but the blade has a compound angle and it is difficult for me to keep the angle of the narrow edge consistent on my sharpening stone. Anyone know what type of sharpening company would be able to sharpen this blade for me? The local knife sharpeners have not been responding when I send them photos of the blade.

I found the set of doming tools on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D6724Z62 $30 is worth my time to just buy them.

When I was in there, I found three hall sensors in position to read the permanent magnets of the rotor as they go by. I should have worn gloves when I put it back together...those magnets are vicious, and I got pinched.

Excellent you found a solition for your needs For a doming tool; before you cut one, there are doming setters meant for ready-rivets which have a domed head already. I have the domed setters in sizes from 4mm to 12mm in 1mm steps

I mostly make leather knife sheaths and I was trying to find a compact rivet to end the stitch lines. I like copper burr rivets, but the smallest available are still way too large. I have found a solution that works for me. Amazon sells assortments of metric copper rivets in flat-head and round-head versions. The range is 2mm, 2.5mm and 3mm shaft sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNCSHG3T https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNCT42XG I found the washers on McMaster Carr. They are sold as #1, #2, and #3 copper flat washers https://www.mcmaster.com/97565A111/ https://www.mcmaster.com/97565A112/ https://www.mcmaster.com/93661A112/ I made my own rivet sets by just end drilling some pieces of 1/4" round steel rod. You will need a #44, a #40 and a #31 drill bits. I think mild steel is fine as these will only get light use. I will probably make some matching doming tools by using a diamond ball bit in a dremel to carve little domes in some harder steel rod.

Mine has that too--- paddles running next to the aluminum case, shrouded under some plastic. I think simply removing the plastic cover would be a boon...