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Wow, lots of travel! And seems to achieve it furthest reach earlier in the rotation of the hook than the OP machine

I see tension issues. You mentioned an upholstery shop, so I'm not sure if you are new to sewing or an old pro. Have you experimented with different tension settings to get the looped threads under control? For photos, do you have some white thread you could use for the needle thread so we can easily see which is top vs bottom?

You have skipped stiches and a nest bellow? Have you checked the timing of the machine? here is one document, check the added text at the end https://docs.uwe.net/Pfaff-145-545.pdf you can also check different pfaff 1245 Service manuals which have nice graphics. It is much newer machine but certain things are same / similar etc

the good news is. i finally got it stitching the bad news is that it inst pretty or good. keeping the smallest stitch length its stitching just not good looking. but when i turn it up for longer stitches it starts messing up badly. so what does everybody think ? is it a tension problem ? any advice would be apreciated. i took apart all the stuff inder the needle i sanded down rough edges and cleaned everything. but didnt find any burrs or nothing. the under side of the feeddog had some carving that was weird in my opinion and everythime i used the knee lifter i heard a click and i found the problem. the bracket that helps take the tension of the top tread when lifting the feet was broken and the home made a piece that slips off and dont do much. so ill go look for a replacement for that. already spend 3 days working on this and i was ready to give up and bring it to a mechanic. but i learned they are hard to find. and the ones i called dont do it anymore only domestic machines. so that sucked. i need this machine to run and work for me. cant keep fiddling for ever on this. and dont have the money to buy another one and find that that has problems to XD

Great work!

Nice Job!

We’ve been iced in since Saturday so decided to practice a little. Made this cover for my daily planner. 3/4 oz Hermann Oak with a pig skin liner. It’s just dyed black and Sheridan Brown antique finish over natural leather, no resist. I haven’t put a topcoat yet. Want something I’ll be able to clean and oil later. I usually Wyosheen everything and I don’t like the way water base finishes look. Oil just seems to sit on top of the Wyosheen. Any recommendations.

I had thought about a Consew but went with a Kenidyne, a bit pricier but a fantastic servo motor - it will go down to 50 rpm, probably the best and most helpful thing I've bought besides my machine. And I do not get anything by mentioning them. Finding info is a bit time consuming but it's out there, look for cowboysew and hightex - and no problems with running the needle positioner once you program the controller to use it. The motor doesn't care if there is one or not, it's all in the controller.

VID_2026-01-28-19-22-59-580.mp4 I'm not sure video of my 111w is going to be very instructive. It looks a lot like yours, only with more motion.

Thank u.. I will def check out the YouTube channels u suggested thank u so much. Sorry for the late reply.

Thank u I will def try this. I appreciate the info. No I don't I will check that out thanks. No I don't I will check that out thanks. No I don't I will check that out thanks.

Fantastic, great to be on the same page as everyone. Yes, I agree. The new hook arrived a couple of days ago but I won't get a chance to swap it out until hopefully this weekend. I will create video #2 (the "after" video) when it's done, and hopefully I have a flawlessly working machine. The best part of all this is what I'm learning from you guys, so thanks very much everyone for your kind help.

In my mind, the latch (or gate) (or gap) is the thing the thread attempts to cross. The latch is comprised of these two pieces together: the bottom of the throat plate which has a wide gap in it, and the piece of the bobbin case that exists in that wide gap, sometimes at the front of the gap and sometimes at the back of the gap. Okay. I'll bet you'd rather wait for the new one than try all the things we suggested 😉

This is the before Friquant. It's the old wobbly case. Won't get to install the new hook/case until maybe this weekend. Thread is Coats Dabond V138 for which the machine is rated. I've tried adjusting the case opener arm both ways in tiny increments. I cannot find a happy medium that pulls the case anti-clockwise enough to open the gap enough on the rear/far side of the case tab, yet opens the gap between the case opener arm and the triangular outcrop on the case when the thread goes around the other side of the hook. I can get one or the other but not both. This is why I'm suspecting the slop in the case and how it leans towards the needle plate, to be a potential cause of the problem. Regarding the latch. I'm kind of guessing at the moment at what part is referred to as the latch, so I'd better not go further before I make sure I'm on the same page as everyone. The curved arm that's operated by the eccentric under the hook, I've been calling that the case opener arm. The case opener arm pulls against the triangular outcrop on the case to rotate it anti-clockwise. This is where the biggest problem is as the gap between these two comes too late and the thread gets stuck there a little. Then there's the tab of the case that sits in the slot of the needle plate. So is one of those being referred to as the latch.

You've lost me on that one Wizcrafts. The case opener arm is at the same height as the triangular outcrop on the case on which it pulls against.

Very nice indeed! Could you post a few stills please?

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Polyester thread is UV resistant and a lot cheaper than $180.00 per lb.polyester does not stretch either and works great in needle and awl machine. Link to Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine's thread and needle chart. Bob sells thread and goes by sewmun on the site. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html This chart has metric and imperial.

It rarely snows here but when it does its usually 1 inch deep. But in '81 I was snowed in on a Mountain for 4 days. It was a bad winter here, the petrol and diesel in the post vans froze solid. I was a postie and was delivering a telegram to a mountain farm. Getting there was no problem. I had a hot whiskey then found my van was snowed in. Stayed overnight at the farm and next day took to getting back to base. I only got so far. I abandoned the van and found a shepherds hide, a stone built shelter. It was fully equipped with survival gear - tins of soup, tins of beans, tea, coffee, the means of a fire and lighting it a few old wool blankets. I spent the night in there. The next day an army helicopter, out looking for me, spotted me but blizzard conditions were too bad for them to land so they dropped me more supplies. Two more days in the shelter then a bit of a thaw and I could get away. I left the extra supplies the army dropped in the shelter for the next person. I reckon my survival training in the RAF kept me alive I often take an 'emergency supply' of food and things in my car yet. And my #1 son used to laugh at it until one dark night. . . . but thats another story!

Torrential rain almost everyday. And when its not raining its drizzling with precipitation. We seem to go from one storm to another with just a couple of days between each with moderately strong winds - 25 to 35 mph, storms are 65 plus mph getting up to 100 mph. I have such a small apartment I have to go outside to cut pieces from large hides, Even pieces like belts are cut on my temporary table outside. I've not been able to get on with any large-ish projects since the beginning of last November.

Pity I can't send you some of ours. Torrential rain almost everyday. And when its not raining its drizzling with precipitation.

Last year or so I made my #1 son some belts. He wanted some dress belts and some work belts One of the work belts was nearly 2 inches wide made of laminated 3 mm (7-8 ounce?) veg tan, so it worked out at about 6 mm (15 ounce?) Last week he gave it back to me He didn't like it. Too heavy, too thick He wants me to make him another work belt like the one he showed me.* Single layer of 2.8 mm (6-7 ounce?) v/t On here I read of US customers wanting thick belts but thats not for #1 Oh, just to say, he has a car-breakers yard and is lifting heavy weights all the time so he's not in an office very much A difference in cultures (*that belt needs a new buckle)

Because of the helical cut drive gear?

If there really are washers under the hook, removing them will advance the hook timing.