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Good Morning, I'm brand new to the forum, been reading many things on here for sometime but have not been engaged in conversations. I'm looking forward to learning and contributing what I can to this forum going forward. Asentaja, I Hope your restoration is going well, these are really beautiful, old machines. Catskin and anyone else that may have some thoughts, I'm wondering if you would have a moment to take a look at my photos of my Adler 20-2 and see what your thoughts are? Any assistance is greatly appreciated. I'm currently looking for parts for a few parts; 1) The tension discs/assembly that go on what I would call the endplate 2) The tension assembly that goes on the thread holder near the belt pully end of the machine. I may be missing other parts that are not obvious to me, so interested in your feedback on the photos. I'm located in Antigonish, Nova Scotia. Thank you very much for your time, Take care, Greg

Lets face it, It ain't a hobby it's an addiction. Just depends on which rabbit hole you go down. The worst is buying a machine that will not do what you thought it would. I think a lot of use have done that at some point. No one machine will do everything. My personal thoughts If you are: i) sewing wallets and typical belts, a Class 341/1341 like a Juki LS-341 / LS- 1341 or clone with a table top attachment would be a good choice. ii) sewing thick / tough leather with V207 and above, a Class 441 like a Juki TSC-441 or clone or one armed bandit is needed. The thing a lot of people forget is if you buy a Class 441 machine the needle is basically the size of a 2 1/2" finishing nail which is going to punch a really large hole that may not be suitable for say a wallet. The 90 percent rule: Buy a new machine that meets 90 percent of your sewing needs / wants. For the other 10 percent buy a good used machine. kgg

Some of those buckles in the pics look a bit like bridle/ harness buckles that i have used. If they're strong enough for a horse, I'm sure they'd be strong enough to use on a restraint. HS

I went through this a couple of years back. Just a seeming few dollars more gets you a little more capability. Then, if you're at that level anyway, why not a little more money..? Such a slippery slope. Be interesting to find out where you land. 😃

Thank you.

Best use a roller buckle as those are easier to tighten and something that has some strength (chrome or nickle-plated steel or stainless; zinc die-cast may be ok, but check breaking load in the spec). Otherwise go for what you like best. Roller buckles are available in all kinds of finishes and widths. Lockable buckles exist too, but those are usually limited in width. Note that for lockable buckles you need an oblong punch for the holes instead of a round one and you can't use eyelets.

My first attempt at a Ranger belt for a mates brother... Roger

I looked for one, I couldn't find one on eBay.

You have failed to meet the requirements for placing an ad in the marketplace. If you don't remedy the problems with your ad within 2 Days I will lock and archive this ad.

Consew 226r has reverse Juki LU-562 with reverse Juki LU-563 with reverse(Same as the LU-562, but with a larger capacity bobbin) Singer 144w205 has reverse My pick would be the Juki LU-563 because of bobbin size, plus a great machine. The 144w205 will sew .750" of material and has an even larger bobbin than the Juki LU-563, plus a 20" throat. This would be the ultimate machine of the bunch. I absolutely have only needed reverse for nylon horse halters, I do not back stitch with a leather needle because it cuts the thread. You should be able to find a, ready to sew, Singer 111w155 for half your budget, but has no reverse.

Thank you so much, Wiz! I was actually just looking at the CB2500 when I figured I'd check notifications. Some time in February I'll call Bob and ask if they have a used one in stock. I mostly make cowboy style wallets and knife cases, but I have a couple belts I'd like to sew a liner onto and I simply don't have the time to hand sew everything.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/122464314844

Singer Part# 227561

By the way those excenter screws, assuming there is nothing pinning it in place you can see which side is the high vs low side by turning them in-place. Maybe the washer already fell out, either for you or for a previous owner?

Hello, could you send me some info on your dies? Im looking to have some made. Thanks, Robby long.robby55@gmail.com

@japty I moved you over to the Wanted section. i'd suggest starting with Toldedo Industrial. They're an advertiser here and enjoy an excellent reputation. 866-362-7397

Hi, Looking for legitimate dealers that sell used Juki and Adler industrial sewing machines. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you, Jim

maybe this helps: TORO3000_3200_4000seriesOperatorsManualVerSeptember2014.pdf

THANKS

I recently had the opposite issue - in reverse, I got horrible looping on the bobbin side. I was told to my needle was too small. A larger needle corrected the issue. Perhaps in your case try going to a smaller needle and see how this affects your stitch.

After several weeks and trips, I thought I would give an update. So far, the edges are holding up nicely. the “ antiquing” was also done with the acrylic paint, though it did leave a faint shmear, its not really noticeable. Richard

Yes new acquisition. I am no sure i was just trying to set the feeddog and seen the play

I'm needing a lift lever spring for a Seiko TE-5. It's more or less a clone of the Old Singer 17. I can't seem to find one for a Seiko or Singer (in stock anyway). Curious if any other machines used the same spring? I'd like to find one on eBay/etc for a few bucks rather than full fledged Seiko pricing. Looks like such:

Try the "tension release disc" from the old tensioner (the one with he small bar across the center hole) - just a guess. Looks like this one: https://armastore.eu/32572-singer-tension-release-disk