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A 205-64 is not a walking feet (-370) but a needle feed sewing machine. One of the best made in the class of super heavy arm machines.

What other working sewing machines do you have in your shop?

@DarkHorseFarm As a starting point you could check what motor (how much horsepower) and what gear reduction (4:1, 5:1, 10:1) is being offered by the folks at Campbell.

Hello to whoever reads this. I’m considering buying a 205-64. It needs the walking foot worked on. I’ve been told there are shims that are needed to keep it working in line. Its sews fine and could be used as is. I know it’s an old machine with its limitations and I certainly don’t need it. That being said the asking price is $500 and I do wonder if it might be worth it to have I’m my shop or possibly repair and resell. Though I never seem to sell anything. I’d like to hear opinions from those who know more about this machine than I. Thanks Jonathan

My girlfriend says I can get a reduced sentence if I paint the pulley 😀

I would have thought the 869 would be a better machine for the job also. thickest leather I will sew is 8mm.

One curse of the 7x3 needle system is they are so long. This means they will flex more when using narrow sizes like the 140Nm you mentioned. The needles are also more expensive, and available from fewer sources.

It is along the entire length of the bottom edge.

You'll get plenty of good feedback here. For the moment, let me direct you to an epic thread on this very subject that should get you started:

I have a few questions regarding machines. I mostly sew wallets, belts, and knife cases, but I would also like to do bags at some point. As far as belts and sheaths go, I use Hermann Oak Saddle Skirting Leather. Should I use 207 or 277 size thread, or both? Is the Cowboy 797 from Tandy powerful enough to sew through 2 layers of 10-11 oz Hermann Oak without pre-punching the holes? If not, what machine should I look for? I've looked at the CB3200 and the Cobra Classes 3 and 4 sewing machines, but those are a tad out of my budget for now.

As you say, many years of use. I would obtain some U shaped brass channel and affix it to that bottom edge oh, question, is just the corners or the whole length of the bottom edge seam or what exactly?

I have been asked by an older gentleman who is really attached to this bag if I can address the edges. I didn't take a picture of the bag, but found one for demonstration purposes. The entire edge on both sides is rolling inward when the bag is set down on a solid surface. The leather is in good shape, supple, but also very soft. I think over the 40 years it has been used, it has created a memory and will always go back to that position, even when I pull it out. Any ideas on how to fix the bag so the edges don't roll under the bag? Thanks!!

maybe you can post pictures and give us some more detailed information cause no one knows what parts 3037 is except we download a parts list an look through it until we find the part you talk about 😉

This wouldn't have been my first choice of a machine mainly due to the hole it would punch through the material, 2.5mm diameter unless you are sewing items above 1/2"(12.5mm) in thickness or saddles. I would have probably gone with a Juki LS-1341 or clone with a speed reducer as it would use a smaller diameter needle the system 135 x 16 x needle size for leather. My understanding is the 969 is a class 441 machine that takes the system 7x 3, 794 or 1000 needles (Schmetz). There are needles available for 7x3 or 794 from #19-#27 (120-220) for V92 to V415 thread. I would talk to the dealer to track down the needles if you are going to keep the machine and maybe discuss exchanging the machine for something like a 869 which would take the system 135 x 16 needles . kgg

Thanks guys. The stitches are layed out in the die, and the stamp couldn't have been stamped any harder (short of breaking my hardwood stamp). One of the other problems, pointed out by a stranger who didn't see it, is the quality of leather. Bought some cheap from Tandy, to try as liner. It dyes weird, is strange to handle and probably has problems I am unfit to describe well. The 'stranger' was 'Armitage Leather' on youtube. He has a 2h sewing presentation, and early on, he told me something I've known a long time, and keep having to be told. Buy quality. Leather of high quality, he says, works consistently and that limits the errors to the worker, simplifying troubleshooting. This leather, as I said, is the opposite. I think it will be worth going back to Hermann Oaks, or whatever other quality stuff I can find in Canada. It's better, and the errors are more often 'mine'. I will try to make tension consistent, and avoid the backstitch, so thanks for that. I'll be banging out a few of these crappy ones, while meditating on some of these issues. The quality stuff will be after I've got a better result, as I do still have some HO scraps around somewhere. As a side note, it seems to be too slow to include sealhide in this fashion. Also, the hairs look too long for this size of project, I think. Anyhow, onward and thank you guys.

Those are BEAUTIFUL! And the messy bench makes me less ashamed of mine lol. (currently a similar mess on the kitchen table, while Sweetheart is away)

Staggering the circles definitely helps. Make them as big as possible to limit the fill.

@Ghoust6 I slid you over to the sewing machine sub forum. We'll probably get more attention here.

If clutch not engaging, probably your synchronizer not conected... It is worth if its working and complete machine, if it have some major parts missing, it can be a nightmare to assemble. parts can be very expensive! If its just electronics, just throw in Chinese servo, make a foot lift (if it automatic) and happy sewing. 50 bucks is cheap!

Hello, I have a problem with my singer 18-2. I have no idea how to disasemble part number 3037. I did unscrew it but it still hold like hell to the parts that regulate the stich lenght. I wiuld be thankfull for any clues and pictures/videos. Thanks to all of you !!

I haven't done a lot of Sheridan style, but I did read the book, lol. Found it on ebay about 6 months back. The book says start with your circles and lay them out, then add the flowers inside, they take up most of the circle. then add the leaves and stumps and such using the circles as reference for your flow of the pattern. What I see in the book is very little negative space between the circles. Sheridan is a very busy looking type of pattern with everything close, touching and overlapping. So you need to enlarge your circles and flowers to fill up that negative space, then your problem will disappear. If it were me, I would make my flowers larger, relocate them so they fill the area a bit more randomly, they are three rows all in a straight line so kind of boring layout. Cut some circles out of paper and use them to lay out your pattern first, move them around to get a good, interesting pattern, then go for the flowers, and then lay in your leaves and such. Hope that helps a bit.

So long story short. I make and repair bags. mostly Louis Vuitton. Contacted a Adler reseller. Said I had a Pfaff 335, and she could not keep up with thicker threads. 20 (TEX 135) and needed an upgrade. So they sold me this beast of a machine. They assured me it was the right fit. first problem I ran into, other then the machine only came with R needles. is that its not possible to get a 140 LR needle for the damn thing. and that is my go to needle for 20 thread. I dont mind overkill. but what other problems might I run into down the line? Sewing with bigger threads it not a problem oc.

Those are lookin good!!! ! Merry Christmas

A little harder on the stamp, and maybe just a tension problem with your stitches. Try and pull the same tension with each stitch just as a machine does. But it will be fine when finished, only you can spot the problems.

I have an older Adler 467-373 — an excellent machine! All functions work perfectly, and I’ve completed several projects with it already. Overall, there’s nothing to complain about. The entire oiling system works, and the machine is amazingly quiet and smooth. Previously, the machine received a full service, and all leaks in the pneumatic system were fixed. However, there is still one thing that bothers me. When I activate the Max Foot Stroke function, the internal pneumatic cylinder inside the sewing machine starts to hiss. The leak is definitely not coming from the air hose connection but from somewhere inside the cylinder. I’ve watched some YouTube videos, and one machine had a similar hissing sound. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viSc5XD7R2I My question is: can someone confirm whether this is normal, or is it actually a fault that should be repaired? The leak is not critical, but it does bother me.