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Looks good, might seem expensive initially but in the long run it will be worth it. Old firearms, like old sewing machines, are notorious for having oddball screwheads! My WWGreener shotgun has slots so thin that I still haven't found a driver bit that fits!!

Lots written on here about "what oil to use" but the simplest way is to get some Lillywhite sewing machine oil.

Yeah, shelves might work. I'm looking at what I've got in there that could be stored in that space. It has to be good for something.......

Nice Landis 1 sewing machine. Asking $1250 or best offer. Works great and needs nothing. Comes with needle sizes 180,200,230,250,280.. I will ship on buyer's dime or you can pickup in Western Wisconsin. This will sew through leather up to 7/8" thickness.

If you are ever if Florida look us up. We owe you dinner. 😄

Thank you so much. What should we use to lubricate it?

Country Bob my friend. It took 4 hands and a lot of force but it went IN!

Yes,when it kicks out it will hit there until it gets re-engaged.It's not going in the groove because your not pushing the handwheel backwards with enough force WHILE holding the button down.Since you don't want to do what I'm telling you you can get a wide screwdriver put on the lower part of the left pin & top of the right pin give it a twist (clockwise)& it'll pop back in the groove.

Thank you KGG I will try that.

Personally I would remove the cotter pin on the catch arm pivot point, the catch arm that catches the side of shaft and see what going on. Maybe the hole in the larger piece at that point has worn the pin or the hole in the larger piece has been enlarged. What do you have to lose? kgg

Thanks, Bob for all your help I did engage the shaft, but unfortunately, it did not move or change the position of the piece of metal that’s supposed to go into the slot see picture above even after moving the wheel towards me and or away from me

Like I said b4,push the button & while holding it down push the handwheel backwards & it'll snap back in.

Photo 2 I believe that there should be a space between the outer wall and the plate but correct me if I am wrong. It seems stuck up there.

Photo 1 …..pointing to slot….its not lining up.

We pushed button. It is in gear. Shaft is moving perfectly but we still have the problem in the video. The little piece ( don’t know what it is called) is not going into the slot the way it is suppose to. It is just on the edge of it.

Thank you cowboy Bob and kgg. We did engage the button. That was the first thing the repair guy did. Fixed the button and engaged it. Then he went to clutch area and that is when everything stopped. He fixed and tweaked everything else but did not feel comfortable taking apart clutch. We have been oiling for two days. Here is where we are at. Thank you for any help.

Good inspiration. LOL, all putty knives should look so good. Good suggestion to experiment with pieces for heat treating. I've found that in a lot of cases old saw blades are made of better steel than new ones. Good inspiration. LOL, all putty knives should look so good. Good suggestion to experiment with pieces for heat treating. I've found that in a lot of cases old saw blades are made of better steel than new ones. Good inspiration. LOL, all putty knives should look so good. Good suggestion to experiment with pieces for heat treating. I've found that in a lot of cases old saw blades are made of better steel than new ones. Good inspiration. LOL, all putty knives should look so good. Good suggestion to experiment with pieces for heat treating. I've found that in a lot of cases old saw blades are made of better steel than new ones. Oops. Sorry about the multiple taps. But then, it does hammer the message home.

Hi Bob This is Ron Nancy’s husband. Thank you for replying. I did watch the same video Singer Safety Clutch above several times. Here is the problem I’m still having. Any help will keep me out of the dog house 😂

800 euros is around $1500 au. That's a pretty good haul of goodies 👌 I'd be like a kid at Christmas, I just want to play HS

Moved your post to Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners Check through this forum. Mainly, you will find that you need to buff the purse with a clean white soft cloth until it stops transferring dye (rub off) to the white cloth. Then it needs to be sealed with a finish product that could be a lacquer and water based sealer. You find various names as you peruse this forum.

Make sure you hold back the starting threads, or at least the top thread, for about three stitches. Ensure that the needle isn't too small. Move up a size or two to see if that helps bring the top thread up into the leather. Choose the correct size needle for the thread combination. Do standard troubleshooting stuff. Start by checking the hook to needle timing. Adjust the hook or needle bar height if it has been thrown out by the impact of sewing rubber. Remove the throat plate and clean off any residue on the bottom of it. Also, check the feed dog and clean it if necessary. Re-time the machine. Change the needle to a leather point needle. Make sure you've threaded it correctly and that the top thread stays inside the tension disks and doesn't lift up as you sew. Center the check spring if it was turned to one end or the other end. Finally, make sure that there is a modicum of tension on the bobbin thread; not too much or too little.

It's not rusted,don't take it apart! Just re-engage the safety clutch & you'll be sewing again.

Walking around the supermarket yesterday I noticed that they use a thick dense cardboard between the layers of bottled water (and other stuff). There was loads of it and I thought it would be ideal for pattern making and laser practice. If it's rolls you're after they're around 3ft square so would make around a 12inch roll with a bit of tape or string.

Unfortunately I don't get much at that thickness, I wish I did but since we don't normally use it, the lots that come through are rare.