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Around the first of the year, I was just getting into leather working and only had one Flatbed, a Cowboy 797 then and now, I found I'm in that twilight zone of frequently needing a heavy duty stitcher for holsters etc and still a hobbyist, I couldn't afford or at least justify buying a Class 4 or a CB4500. Prior to purchasing my Seiko CW8-B, which will sew almost 3/8" with 138 thread, I bought a Weaver Cub, a second edition but steel model. From day one, I thought the learning curve was steeper than it ought to be but I got by with mostly so so results. The other day, it started twisting thread even on the first throw. I inspected it closely and found the drive cam which slightly parts the needle to the outside just before the hook pick up the thread had a bur deeper than I felt I could polish out without changing the profile too much to work properly. I called Weaver Machinery and spoke with John. He is fantastic by the way and quickly agreed to send me a replacement part, which costs me 50 bucks. Then came putting the lower shaft back in and getting it in time. After several days of trying and retrying, and I forget how many times I watched his video Steal Cub Timing, I failed. At the point I needed to pause to set the needle timing the think would throw with tremendous pressure and a clanking sound. The Cubs I watched on youtube didn't have that loud of a sound. About ready to give completely up, my wife suggested I dig deeper into the machine. So I pulled the Flywheel / crank wheel off and saw my first clue. The very radical cam has two set screws at 90 degrees. Neither were set at the two flat sides but rather were up on the corners. Not certain but it couldn't have been good. I readjusted the cam and torqued the heck out of those two hex screws so it won't move anytime soon. This quieted the machine down three or four fold and made it so much smoother to run, smoother than it's ever been since I've owned it. Now I wonder if the seller would have sold it if he had understood there was a simple issue. I share this so hopefully some other poor soul like me doesn't have to fight so long with one of these things. If there is anything hinky at all going on, pop off that fly wheel and make sure those cam screws are really tightened down. Cheers.

The same hide, or totally different hides? That at least isolates it to the hide or something you're doing.

Here's a link to the lazer from the manufacturers site: https://www.crealityfalcon.com/products/laser-engraver-cutter-falcon2-40w-engraving-machine Link to enclosure: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1354212243/laser-engraver-enclosure-includes-all?ref=yr_purchases And a link to the enclosure instructions: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5ff105a30400f40890082114/t/671e5148325b0b69be92a256/1730040139458/Makergadgets+Professor+Instruction+Manual.docx.pdf

What type of leather are you using? I don't mean 'veg tan' but more specifically

So the pebbling down the entire length is all stamped?

Hey all, Well the title kinda says it all: here and there while I’m actively stamping, a thin milky liquid will rise to the surface. Yes, water rising probably means that I’m casing too much, but that’s not the question. I had thought that perhaps I hadn’t rinsed the soap off thoroughly from cleaning the leather before working it, but then I noticed it even when I hadn’t cleaned it first. Wish I had a pic to show, but it’s not something I think about when it happens, and I have yet to find rhyme or rhythm to encourage it. Thanks for any insight. —AZR

Yeah, probably. Overbuilding is my specialist subject.

I used to buy some of my motorcycling gear from military surplus stores. My gauntlets were WW2 British Dispatch Rider's* and my summer boots were WW2 German troopers boots. My rain cape, for use on motorcycle and post bike, was an ex-RAF WW2 guard's rain cape. I also used to wear boots called 'ammunition boots' as a postie. They covered the ankles and protected them from dog bites. They were tough and normally hard wearing but as a postie I walked a lot so wore out a pair in about 7 or 9 months There is one store left in Belfast. Still doing 'Army Surplus'. We have a very large number of marching bands and some of their uniforms are made up from Army Surplus uniforms * I think I may still have them somewhere

OP hasn't been back here since June so isn't interested in selling anymore. Locking and archiving this thread.

Maybe post a video showing how yours moves when that screw is loosened

Heavy-Duty Herman Schwabe Industrial Clicker Press – 5-Ton Vintage industrial-quality clicker press, built to last and perfect for serious leatherworkers, die-cutters, or manufacturing shops. Manufactured in Brooklyn, NY by Herman Schwabe Inc. — a highly respected name in the industry. Clicker press: dims 75” height Bed is 30x40 Head: 31x27” • 5-ton cutting capacity • Massive cutting surface with red poly board included • Baldor Industrial Motor (5 HP, 230/460V, 3-phase) • Electric Phase Converter required unless buyer already has industrial 3-phase power (not included) • Fully functional and in good working condition — used regularly in leather production • Buyer is responsible for disconnecting, rigging, and transport. • We can coordinate with your moving crew or rigging service to assist. This machine is a workhorse — perfect for medium to high-volume production environments. Serious inquiries only, priced to move due to downsizing and liquidation.

Checked what I paid; £8.90 with 2 sets of dies and 35 x 15mm snaps Its now running at £10.26 for the same

Hello, Great documentation of the restoration of the Dürkopp 17-1. I just happened to come across a 17-1 myself. You haven't scanned the manual by any chance and could share it?

Its raised up to clear the sound-proofing? I'd try to replicate that mounting; go to a scrap yard and get some scrap door panels. Cut around the mounting, leaving a large piece of plastic, and screw that to the new door panel. Might get you some replacement clips too Just thinking as I write

you should be able to buy those easy enough. I have bought plenty for my cars and trucks from the local parts store. Oreillys is where i get mine.

Area is dry, except when I leave the door open in the rain. Lol How would I mount the clips to the MDF? Here's a better pic: Metal clip removed for pic purposes.

Oh yeah, when i was a kid we would make a yearly trip to Fort Collins to JAX army surplus store , they had tons of milsurp and only milsurp, most of our campiing gear was military. Sadly now their surplus is in one little area in one little room af a huge multi-building sporting goods store. On top of that, my dad was a commander in the local Civil Air Patrol. I still have stuff from the Korean War era and before that i still use. We have a surplus store here, but its friggin crazy expensive.

Those clips should be available from the vehicle dealer. They probably sell them by the box full If your area is dry I'd use MDF. Stable & smooth surfaces, easy to cut and shape

I don't want to mess with it too much until I know, for sure, that it's supposed to move....

So I decided to reupholster the door panels in my work truck. I'm new to upholstery, but I *think* I have that part figured out. I have an idea that I need help with. Here's the panel: My idea is to build complete new panels, and keep the factory ones intact. No particular reason, but it is a company owned truck even though it's assigned to me. I do have permission from the owner for this project. The factory panels are conveniently 0.75" thick, so I can make them from MDF, particle board whatever I decide. Suggestions on this are welcome also. My main concern is mounting the new panels. I do not want any visible mounting through my brand new black cypress leather. The factory panels mount to a flat aluminum sheet on the door using these clips: For the life of me, I cannot come up with a mounting process. I know my question doesn't directly pertain to leather itself, but I'm hoping someone is more familiar with upholstery tricks than I am. The new panels are going to be black cypress on top and bottom, the middle section will be black/white hair on cow. Haven't decided on red or black piping yet. Truck itself is red. Any suggestions? Ideas? Scrap the whole project? Thanks in advance!

Ahhh. The good ol' days, when Army Navy Stores sold tons of surplus, and weren't camping gear stores. I remember in the mid-70s, you could still find some WWII and Korea surplus, and of course a LOT of Viet Nam surplus.

Its just leather man lol. Sharpen them and ya won't have to beat them to death.

I feel the same way, thank you!!!

I've worn a few pairs of those out. They couldn't give them away, hardly back in the day, I used to buy them because they were the cheapest boots you could find. lol. They aren't the most comfortable things in the world, so consider them a collectible before good footwear. They may have worked well for jungle use, but that's about all imo. Did a quick internet search (Vietnam era jungle boot care) and there's actually a forum on this stuff, "US Milatria forum", plenty of good info. What I did learn is that these boots were not polished during that time in history, so doing so would lessen their value and make old guys laugh at you when they see you.

if it was me I´d go with the 67-GA-373. Have an eye on the timing belt. The old brown ones tend to crack and fall apart with the time. If yours is bad check this tread: