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I concur, you could conceivably hit it hard enough to bend something. Also, I don't see enough slot for a screwdriver to bite into. I'd get to drilling.

@JamesR I moved your post to leather tools.

We have 2 ads from you in 2 days. It is time to post useful content besides ads that the members may be able to use, such as tips, tricks, how to, etc. You may even drop in to help other members with their questions. If you only post ads and nothing else, your posts will be considered as spam and treated as such, including being banned from this site. If you only want to post ads here, then contact @Johanna and purchase banner ads like you see along with user's posts. Your templates look to be useful for those who have trouble drawing/sketching free hand. We look forward to seeing comments and helps from you.

I make some birch tar based leather conditioner and wax which some of you might be interested in, it is quite different from other conditioners and waxes. Leather Conditioner Ingredients Beeswax Jojoba Birch tar D-limonene Stabilizer (mix of antioxidants and tocopherols) Very strong smoky smell (smell of russia leather with a hint of oranges) imparted on the leather which fades down to slightly smoky after a week or so, lasts for up to a year. Penetrates well and has great resistance against water, salt, fungi, pests, and even rodents, long lasting. Does not overly soften, dries well and not tacky. Very stable, I have never seen it oxidize, and does not go rancid. Leather Wax Ingredients Beeswax Coconut oil Birch tar Stabilizer (mix of antioxidants and tocopherols) Much of the same benefits as the conditioner but not as good of penetration, beeswax stays at the top while some of the oils penetrate. Dries well, may be a little tack for a week or so after application. Designed to work with the conditioner. Both applied and leather is highly water resistant for up to a year and in some cases longer. $25 CAD for conditioner (4oz jar) $18 CAD for wax (4oz jar) Due to trump nuking the de minimis deal and setting additional duty fees I charge an additional 35% duty fee to cover the cost as it has to be pre-paid not passed to the receiver. These products perform extremely well in harsh environments but are not for everyone. They will darken leather significantly and the smell is intense until it fades.

Depends on how hard you hit it I suppose.

Whatever you use as a show table use a cloth covering it. I/we found dark red or brown best with leatherwork. There are websites which tell you which colours are welcoming or 'cold' et cetera

33" That is a long billet! The lengths that I can get from Laederiet (my supplier) are 13", 18" or 26" So far I mainly get the 18 and 26" ones. My only gripe is that the holes are a bit elongated on the 18" ones, and not one the 26". It is only a visual problem, when I need to use a long one on the front part of a saddle and a shorter one near the middle (on Kieffer dressage saddles for example). I have only heard of Hermes saddles, never seen one in real life :-) I agree on the maltreatment of the cobblers hammer. It should not be used as a regular hammer, I have a ball peen hammer with a polished ball end, I only use that one for peening copper rivets. The sad thing is that despite her shortcomings in tool treatment and repair knowledge/execution, she seems to have a large audience. Maybe it is because people are more likely to watch someone telling them that "this is just a simple job that anyone can do" compared to someone who knows what he/she is doing and telling people that "this part is better left to someone who has a basic understanding of saddle repair". I guess it is just rare that a good craftsman also makes good videos, I know that there are some out there capable of both, Lisa Sorrel is a prime example. Her boot making videos are top notch, and she really seems to know what she is talking about. Once in a while you manage to come across a video made by such a person, and it is almost reinvigorating to watch it. Sadly this saddle repair video was the complete opposite Brgds Jonas

Quick & EZ Pattern System (Patent Pending) Allows you to create patterns and apply them onto leather.Sizes are 2"-3.5". $49.95.http://www.circleccustomleather.net

So you can focus on buying a class of machine that does what you want, since you can fix it up. Most "fixing" is actually adjusting, with some cleaning and oiling along the way. I have bought a new hook for a machine where I broke the hook trying to get it out. But there were aftermarket parts available.

Bruce — Wow, thank you. Your experience, especially being much closer (3hrs or so) to me helps a lot. Most definitely individual wrapped candy, and SF definitely. But more importantly, the ideas for what we called an “elevator pitch” in school (I barely passed speech class…), and communication with the promoters/managers. The general ideas I’m gathering from everyone are how to successfully invite people into my stall, and create a connection, however brief. Definitely stepping out of my comfort zone, but necessary for the potential of success. Returning to ideas for setup, what are people’s thoughts regarding a couple cable spools stacked to create a rounder, with my concept being to bring people in to see what else is out of sight? I’m wavering though, as I don’t want something too big to see around or take up half of my tent. I haven’t bothered yet to flesh out how to keep the design clean. But, if it winds up looking a little too redneck, it won’t be leaving my garage. At face value, I like the concept of a rounder, but what are other’s thoughts? — AZR

I haven't seen much good about the portable consews. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/111864-consew-cp206rl/#findComment-731591

Most of them are clutch motors, but I already have a servo I can swap in.

I like that singers have documentation. If you buy a clone, you end up finding the documentation for whatever it was cloned from. The 211G is shown on this page: https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-200-299.html Do any of the machines you're looking at come with a variable speed motor? That would bring the overall cost down.

Thank you so much for that response. Your work looks really great, wow, I have so much to learn, thank you for explaining and showing your work process.

I haven't read any comments about her tool use. (Or, maybe I missed it.) When replacing billets, I punch my holes in the leather first, before attaching them to the webbing, and gluing them doesn't help much in my opinion. But, what bothered me the most was her use of tools. Using a cobblers hammer on stitching irons, or hole punches, to set the holes irks the hell out of me. I know it's "anal" of me, but I even polish the face of my cobbler hammers so not to leave marks on my leather. I agree with Mulesaw, trying to glue a patch on to this saddle probably won't hold. Ron

I did manage to find a Consew CP206RL locally, and it's owned by a person in acquaintances with. She let me try it out, but I had problems getting the stitch length longer and had issues with the needle thread breaking no matter how I set the tension. I assume that if I could fix these issues that it would be a good enough machine, especially since it's local and only $500. She might even give me a discount for the issues we had with it.

Pretty clever! I love seeing creative ideas to solve a problem. Looks like this solved yours.

https://springfieldleather.com/products/money-clip-redneck-np?_pos=1&_psq=mone&_ss=e&_v=1.0

They have a video on the listing of it starting up (some noise that goes away happens) and running without fabric or thread. So it does at least function in those ways. And I do love fixing things, which is why I'm kinda drawn to these older all metal machines. If I could find one with good documentation and parts availability, I'd be happy as a clam.

The cutline looks interesting. Anybody know if a manual is available for those? I put in Asheville, NC and started searching. How about some of these: Tacsew gc6-6: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1217068313162876 Adler: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1256624485648626/ Unknown walking foot: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1411826190265789/ Nakajima: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1685486795446778

I wanted to precisely punch centered oblong holes in 1 1/2" belt blanks for attaching the buckle. This jig allows me to it easily. The punches are sandwiched between blocks and screwed together. The blocks were sized to snuggly fit into the 1 1/2" wide box that the belt blank slides into. They were also cut to allow the punch to be centered in the jig. The blocks are easily removed whenever I need to use the punch without the jig. They are held together with flathead screws and Tee nuts.

Post some photos of the machine.

Cheap! Has it sewn recently, or has it been stored in a barn? (affects how much cleaning it needs). You could ask sellers of any of these to demo sewing five layers of vinyl. Another option is to post your own ad. By the way, do you enjoy fixing things?

Do you have any parallel sided screwdrivers? (Hollow ground) My first set of hollow ground was just whatever I could collect from all the stray screwdriver bit sets. Eventually had a variety of sizes.

I moved your post to leather sewing machines. I think you'll get more response here.