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Definitely has been here since 2015 when you joined. You just never came across it. Good place to be able to sell to interested members.

Nice work. They both look great. Top notch!

Instead of tagging onto old threads, and especially threads that don't list the same model number is not a great idea. I split your post off to a new thread. Also found a manual https://www.manualslib.com/manual/970676/Sunstar-Km-380bl.html Refer to page 13.

Nobody can tell you its value sight unseen. Add some photos (jpg or png) 800 pixels in the longest dimension. Add some description, how many stamps, the type of stamps, are they craftool and if so what are the numbers, are they letter / alphabet stamps? Sorry our crystal balls don't work anymore. The tin hats and internet must have screwed them up.

I love it. I use those same conchos every chance I get. Good Choice!

You posted in a very old thread. Different machine even. Split your post off to a new thread. Have you looked through the leather sewing machine forum, especially the pinned topics?

Hi Toxo, moved your post to leather sewing machines. I think you might get the attention of the right members here.

Those conchos look much better, more subtle. The others stood out too much, being solid metal.

More info always helps, along with photos. Pfaff makes a lot of machines.

That was doing my head in trying to figure it out until it suddenly clicked into place. Simple but very effective.

I figured the more ambitious the project, the better excuse I'd have when I failed 😅 Just got lucky that it turned out better than I expected.

That's a pretty solid looking belt you've got there, should be good for a few years!

For a first effort that's pretty impressive - and ambitious. One of the problems with being the maker is that you notice all the little flaws, things which others won't see. Which also means you can see where improvements need to be made. I'd call it a success.

So near and yet so far. Epic fail. How do I get the tape to come out of the folder the same on both sides of the leather? Is it a question of what type of tape is used?

Thank you, the few people I've shown didn't notice the stitching issues. So you're probably right that I should just not point it out. But since I made it it seems so obvious. So far it does carry a 45 1911 pretty well, even with my extra weight. So I think the height does help a bit.

That looks easier than I expected! I should be able to make that. Maybe a dog collar itself for my Poochie as I learn how to lace like that. Thanks @TomE

I got tired of my stretchy work belt and phone clips that break, so I made a couple of accessories for my day job as assistant mucker at Maefield Farm. The belt is made from 10 oz Hermann Oak chocolate harness leather with a liner. The phone case is made from 5-6 oz "oil tanned" leather from the SB Foot Tanning Co. The case was constructed around a block of closed cell foam, glued and sewn at 10 stitches per inch. The edges of the belt and case are sealed with beeswax.

Just pick up a singer 281-141 I hope this will work for leather no idea where to start hope I can get advice on where to start thank you .Dale

Slipped this over to leather sewing machines. It might make a difference which Pfaff you got. If it's a standard industrial with the motor under the table, swapping the motor out might solve part of it. If it doesn't care about the source of it's compressed air, a small contractor compressor might be the rest of the solution.

This post contains @Wizcrafts recent dissertation on all things Check Spring.

That's a great holster, first one or not. I think I see where you're talking about on the stitching but it's no big issue. Julia Child said don't tell your guests what's wrong with your food and they'll never figure it out. The height of the belt loop slots might keep the top of the firearm from torquing out. I suspect this is more a fat guy problem

While working a commission for a company, one of the employees asked if I could do holsters. I had never made one so I did my best to find out if I could. I see many mistakes in my part, especially messing up the last bit of stitching of the entire piece. But for a first try im pretty pleased with myself. I'll have to use it for awhile before I'd be comfortable trusting one I made enough to sell though.

A #23 needle is the right size for #138 thread on the top and bottom. Look closely at the leather under the needle to see if it is lifting with the needle as it ascends. This almost always causes skipped stitches. If it is lifting, add more foot pressure. Inserting the needle backwards has the same effect. Make sure the rib side is on the left and the scarf side faces due-right. If the check spring is set wrong for the work, it can cause skipped stitches. The bottom stopper should halt the downward motion of the check spring as or just after the tip of the needle enters the top of the work. The longest it should allow downward motion would be as the eye shows just under the bottom layer. The other settings are spring tension and slack adjustment, via a set screw inside a curved slot. Try changing the position of that screw.

Very nice and very interesting. Looks easy enuff to replicate. I might try it on a sword/axe hangar