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I use 4/5 oz for my outsides. 8 will make a thick wallet like has been said. Just got to be easy with carving tooling so you don't blow right through. I use 2/3oz veg tan for my inside pockets.

I've seen prices range $160 and up. Buckle guy sells python for $220

Any idea of the value? I have done a little checking on some website, but the pricing seems to be all over the place. I'm sure it's just me not knowing which to look at.

Have you tried this manual, which has a supplement at the end? https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=172342 Anything in particular you are looking for?

Double needle...nice! You can pull the cover off the backside near the hook, and put one of these endoscopes down there and see what's happening: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKQH4VZY Then with a brand new needle in the machine (scarf on the hook side), and the machine threaded, put a piece of fabric or leather under the foot and turn the machine over slowly with the handwheel while you watch the (cell-phone screen of the) boroscope. Ideally, the needle goes down and stops. Then it starts to come up and forms a loop. And the hook comes by at about the middle of the scarf and grabs the loop and takes it around the bobbin. Watching it zoomed in like that will show you what's happening. . It may also help to draw a black mark at about the middle of the scarf as a reference point for where the hook will come by. Maybe the hook is arriving at the wrong time. Maybe the hook is too far away from the needle. Maybe no loop is being formed. Maybe the hook point is very dull If the hook bushings are worn, you may need to adjust the hook closer to the needle to make sure it all but contacts the needle when you actually sew. If the hook point is worn to where it is no longer sharp, you can inspect this and possibly re-sharpen if it's not too bad.

I believe the white one is python.

I’m looking for a mechanic’s manual for my Pfaff 545 H4. I’ve downloaded and bought different manuals but they all fall short usually users manual. I’ve tried the 1245 mechanic’s manual but I can’t get the numbers to line up with the 190 needle system. Please advise

Couple of questions: i) How wide are the belts?? On this side of the pond the typical width is 1 1/2" (38mm) for say jeans while 1 1/4" ( 32mm) is more for dress pants. ii) How thick is the leather, 8 / 9 oz?? iii) Did you glue, staple, sew or rivet the belt loop? kgg

2 oz. calfskin is a decent choice for interiors as well. Also not as cheap as regular cowhide, but it's cheaper than kangaroo.

Looks good to me.

Always good to hear ideas from others. I thought of the angle grinder/cut-off wheel but because I've welded this one up I didn't want to take the chance of slipping and buggering it up! I'm still pondering the best way of mounting the die itself. Wood "block" to screw it to, cut the shape in wood with an engraver and rebate it into the wood, cut a slightly oversize shape from sheet metal and tack weld the die to it, a few options there. I've noticed that a lot of the die makers only use one set of basic bending tools, tape a pattern to the steel rule and then bend bit by bit until they get the angle/shape needed. I may be overthinking this (not unusual for me!).

Now that makes sense, almost idjit-proof to use!

Functional, should do to keep your pants up while you make yourself some fancier ones.

I would think using either contrasting or complementary colours would be best, trying to match stained veg with pre-coloured is always going to be iffy - plus you're going to end up with a large collection of stains!

Same here, I'd like to try the water-based stuff but for the money they're asking they can keep it, the solvent-based stuff has always worked well for me (plus as a bonus there are the fumes.....).

I once made a couple of notebook covers for members of our police force (SAPOL), they have their own logo of course but it is very detailed and finicky. There's no way I could have manually copied that logo but the little laser I had was perfect for that job. But yeah, it does make it easy for anyone to copy almost anything.

lonsdaleleather I did check out the Makers which lead me down the contact cement cost rabbit hole. The cost for i) Makers is $23 USD ($31 CAD) for 16 oz, water based ii) Aquilim 315 for 16 oz is $45 ($62 CAD), water based iii) Weldwood for 16 oz is about $23 USD ($31 CAD), solvent based That said in Canada we can get i) Lepage heavy duty contact cement is $29 ($40 CAD) for 32oz, solvent based ii) L.L. ( Lonsdale) contact cement is $26 ($36 CAD) for 32oz, solvent based which is advertised as using the same "recipe" as Barge. iii) Zelikovitz 1882 contact cement is $39 ($54 CAD) for 32oz, water based My conclusion is the water based contact cements on either side of the border are a fair bit more expensive. Contact cement (water or solvent based) are cheaper in Canada. kgg

Where can I order thread for a Landis 12K to be shipped to me?

Me too! Lol I just don't make enough holsters or sheaths to warrant the price. It would be different if I made them to sell on a regular basis.

I bought these many years ago and don't even remember what kind of skins they are. The large one is 8 feet long and 9.5 inches wide at mt hand span. The smaller Tandy skin is probably 2 feet or so. The product number is no longer listed in Tandy's ever-changing catalog. In the near future, I am going to be selling off stock that I no longer need. Can anyone tell me what I have and the possible value?

One issue I have had with the Aquillim 315 is it is difficult to get good smooth edges. It's like it leaves a rubber cement type of substance on the edge when you are trying to sand it. I have not been able to get rid of it. Which is too bad because and odorless contact cement would be awesome especially in the winter since I have to go out to the shop to use the regular stuff due to the fumes. Todd

Antique is used as a top layer after the leather is dyed. The leather is tooled, then dyed to a color of your choice, then you add a coat of clear finish like Resist or Resolene, then add antique and wipe it down. This will leave the antique in the crevices. Then add another coat of your clear finish to lock in the antique. Trying to match dissimilar leathers is going to be really, really tough. If you're going to use chrome tan pick a color then try to match the vegtan the best you can. Using a contrasting vegtan can work perfectly as well. Take a dark brown chrome tan then add a light tan or natural vegtan, it will work well together. I found this on pintrest;

It came out great! I actually like the brown dyed thread in that area as it doesn't take away the flow of the pistol to holster.

8oz is pretty think for a wallet. I would go with 5oz, it will still tool but you'll have to use a lighter hand. For the interior I use either 2/3oz vegtan or English bridle. When tooling remember to use blue painters tape on the flesh side so help minimize stretching.

I have and do both. I love the look of hand tooled leather. Also: I have laser engraved leather photos that adjust the shading etc. and look pretty doggone classy. In every endeavor there are many ways to incorporated what is liked. That said: when you engrave mostly "sketch lines" it isn't nearly as impressive.