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Would you have any idea where I might get a shuttle for it? I have purchased a singer 29K shuttle but it is too big. Thanks

Thank you so much

Where did you source the small pulley?

I bought a Chinese servo motor for my 111w155. It came with a 75mm pulley. I need a 45mm. This issue is the bore on the pulley is tapered. It’s 9mm at the nut side of the pulley and gets larger towards the motor. I can’t find a source for this pulley. Any help?

It's funny stuff, my first cuts were using a carbide bit and it actually caused the bit to chip! I reverted to a sharp high-speed steel bit and that went fine until it galled, left a surface with little raised bits on it. I then took very light cuts to smooth it out , used a fine file and sandpaper and finished off on a buffer. Brass is much better to work with on the lathe, I don't think I'll be doing much more with copper. It was an interesting experiment, however, and at least copper doesn't give off those nasty zinc fumes when it's melting. Having said that, kgg got me thinking - a hammer-head profile like a cobbler's hammer might be nice, copper has the weight for it.

thanks for the help

This is amazing! Great job on every detail! did you make that frame? Do you think a novice could copy your design?

We're always our own worst critics. Welcome back to the obsession. Your work looks great.

heck yeah thats cool. did you try using just a file at slow speed? I do brass but havent tried copper.

Welcome again and good luck with this venture. I looked at the website and I'm wondering if it's correct that shipping is free? I threw a couple things in the cart and it says Free Shipping, unless I just didn't go far enough.

Very nice, especially your stitching.

No words

@OdinUK Hi Paul, Apologies for the late reply — I’ve been busy with the website. Thanks for the compliment! Sounds like you're off to a great start with your propane furnace and aluminum scrap. It's a great material for practicing sand-casting. Take your time with the molds, and best of luck with your practice! Looking forward to hearing how it goes. — John Bob’s Brassware

@Darren8306 Hey Darren, Apologies for the late reply — I didn’t see your message sooner! I’ve been busy building the website for Bob’s Brassware, but I’m back now. Thanks for the suggestion about the lost wax and lost PLA methods — it’s something I’ve been looking into. 3D printing for casting blanks is a really cool idea, and definitely something I’d like to experiment with down the road. Right now, I’m focused on perfecting the sand-casting process, but I’ll keep you updated as I try new techniques. Appreciate the insight! — John Bob’s Brassware

Hello Leatherworkers, Some of you might remember me from Origibelts, where I used to make handmade leather belts. As I looked to expand my product offerings, I realized Origibelts was too limiting — I wanted to create more than just belts. So, I began hand-casting my own brass buckles and fittings. What started as a way to meet my own needs quickly grew into Bob’s Brassware — a line of hand-cast, solid brass hardware made in small batches here in Nairobi, Kenya. Each piece is poured, finished, and polished locally using traditional sand-casting methods — designed for makers like you who appreciate quality and craftsmanship. To celebrate our launch, all pre-orders will come with a small gift of Kenyan coffee — roasted locally as a way to share a taste of the country where your hardware is made. ☕🌍 You can check out the full range at bobsbrassware.com. If you have any thoughts, suggestions, or hardware requests, I’d love to hear from you! Thank you for taking the time to read — I’m looking forward to connecting with you all. — John Bob’s Brassware

The frame completes it.

Thank you, the one with Billy Bob Thorton was real good too. Would love to see it in person. Wishing you peace beyond all understanding

Thanks, It is about 50 miles from me and priced at $1,500 not much info in the ad just says ("Very few hours, comes with extras"),most of my projects ( except a few harness repairs that are closer to an 1" thick) are just under 1/2" thick and I usually do a saddle stitch with the Ritza 25 Tiger Thread, 1.0 mm Ok thanks

HI, I purchased a USM clicker press in fine working condition a few years ago. The seller lowered the swing arm to the table for transport. I wasn't there to see the process. Now I'm in the process of putting the machine into service, and I can't figure out how to raise the swing arm, prior to starting the machine. During storage there is some slight corrosion on the the vertical column. Thanks in advance Ragnar

A light application of NFO the day before dying helps restore moisture to the leather, which helps the leather to take the dye. When the dye is dry, buff it with a clean rag before applying top coat.

@Cwagz396 Start your own topic, post close-up photos of the hook. Also post photos of the entire top thread path from spool to needle eye. We will help you figure it out

Lookin good . . . saw Fess Parker as Davy Crockett at the Alamo as a kid . . . never made it, but always wanted to visit the place. Thanks for the picture . . . keep up the good work May God bless, Dwight

It makes no difference that I have noticed, other than you might get a little more pigment coming up as you rub in the NFO. - Bill

Hi there? I live in Korea(South) No.19 'Landis 5 in 1' is available?

Very nicely done. It would also be good for hammering down the thread in seams. kgg