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Thank you, that would be great. These are the parts that go to the stitch length regulator.

You can use other needles systems but you have to adjust the needle bar height. I´d be glad if I could find a 97 on my side of the pond. 😁

https://www.ebay.com/itm/157174686380 Not mine (obviously) but could be interesting for some folks in the US. Ex factory it is a straight stitch and cam controlled 3-step 8mm wide ZZ machine (subclass 135). It shares presser feet, feed dogs, needle plates and probably some other parts with its "older sisters" like 107w, 143w and the like. Found it as I´m about repairing one and looked for information cause I have one here that needs a new cam. 🤥

The google search works 👍

It's like the old time infomercials in the middle of the night. "But wait! We can sell you a new magic database tool for a gazillion dollars, that may or may not work any better than what you've got! Call Ronco now and save 15%!" Follow Tom's advice to search the site by Google.

I always get that same feeling around old tools. It makes me feel privileged, that today, many of us are able to do something for a hobby, that was once the bread and butter for a family. Genuine wear adds a certain beauty to many things. Brgds Jonas

Looks pretty good I'd say. I am signing off the ship Wednesday, When I get home I'll take a look to see if I can make a drawing of the missing stitch length regulator for you. Brgds Jonas

Nicely done. I like the steel toed sandles too!! Love my Landis Nr.1. God bless.

Some databases don't index 3 or fewer letters words. Easy way to not index "the" and many other articles reducing the amount of space or keys required by non-essential words. Some DBs allow you to specify what gets dropped and what to keep.

I think very detailed boning is partly aesthetics, partly to enhance retention. I continue to work toward the level Mr. Ingles demonstrates, though I've a long way to go. Larry

I just searched "awl" and got nothing. I wonder if there is a setting somewhere for the online search function? Friquant has me off to the races again. Thanks for the heads up.

I still don't have the correct parts but I made it work(to a point) I manually adjusted the stitch length by hand and I ran it through the tensioner of my Singer 51w54. The top tension is a bit off but considering how I have it rigged up, I think it's alright.

That’s some pretty spiffy tooling work right there…very nice job!

Often times it is better not to tag onto an 8 year old post. Find the same forum and make a new thread with your post. Some pictures may be of great help too. Need to be able to see what you are describing. Our ESP doesn't reach that far

Use a Google search. Their indexing is better, and the servers are very fast. Use the following format: site: leatherworker.net vfd The site parameter restricts the search to a specific site. The search parameters like "VFD" follow the site parameter.

There it is, at the bottom of the homepage 😀

Is there something preventing small search queries from running? I'm trying to search for the word "VFD", but it's coming back with no results. I tried adding a filter for "posts only by one particular member" but still no results. I'm also having trouble searching for "tig"

go to the homepage leatherworker.net

Yes that sounds good! I'm not seeing the "donate" box. Here's a screenshot of the lower right of my screen.

Thank you!

Locked and moved to old and sold archive for non-compliance.

Very Nice...

Something else that makes edging the flesh side easier is slicking your leather. I know, I'm old school. Basically for vegtan you case or at least dampen the surface then run a glass or wooden slicker over it a few times. I slicked flesh and grain side. On a cosmetic note slicking makes the bottom side appearance smoother and more pleasing. Functionally - slicking will compress the fibers, smooth the grain a bit, take some stretch out. it helps to prevent paired straps from stretching unevenly. It will also make your bottom edging feel almost like grain side edging. For chrome tan leathers like latigo, you can use something like saddles soap, BlackRock, gum trag or Tokonole on the flesh side and then slick to lay down fibers and allow some compression. Slicking will also let you use some of that leather you all are throwing or giving away. Cut the flanks out of the bellies and save the bellies. Case them and slick the snot of them. They will compress and make a nice piece for things like card cases or leather that molds easier for sheaths depending on thickness. You can work at it and slick a belly up to almost resemble shell cordovan.

Thanks!

I got the old girl sewing like a champ. I had a CB4500 but really wanted a Landis 16 needle and awl machine. Eli really dialed her in I called him to get some pointers on how to sew with this machine. Still learning but this machine really sews a beautiful stitch on both sides of the leather. I us the machine for the sides and corners of my tote bags the leather is 5 to 6 OZ. The little Consew 206RB-5 I bought from Bob over at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and the CB4500 I sold that to a saddle maker in the Columbia SC area. I use the Consew for the Marine Canvas and boat upholstery work. I have a booth at the Cottage in Georgetown SC for all my leather works make a lot of ladies purses. I needed another heavy leather stitcher for my leather work. I just love these old machines..