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  2. I bought a western ranger style belt with a metal tip I want to replace. Unfortunately the screw holding it on has no slot. It’s not a pin type, just a screw with no head. How do I remove it? Thanks in advance!
  3. Today
  4. I am going to use these 3 images to make and image to trace and transfer. Its about an old grandfather looking at his son's back yard and remising about his childhood days fishing
  5. not a too big issue, the spring just "holds" the thread. It should work with a weaker spring if not I may have a better one (I´ll email you later)
  6. That's neat. I've seen similar patterns on etsy. It would make a fun Halloween costume.
  7. Friends, I want to make a lead-shot filled leather sap—and I would like it to be slightly fatter toward the distal end… Picture the shape of a speed bag or a light bulb—only not quite so pronounced. Also, I intend to sew all the seams and then turn the result inside-out to hide much of the stitching, and I intend to use four pieces… What kind of pattern do I use to get a slightly spherical ball on one end? If I make the ball end too pronounced, it won’t fit through the neck when I turn the leather inside-out. Is there any good rule of thumb, so that I don’t end up with a bag that won’t turn inside-out? What weight leather would y’all advise? Thanks!
  8. Yes, I mean grinding. English is not my language. I was fix that shape and all parts is inside of needlebar diameter. But I don't know if the spring is strong enaugh. It is much weaker than original.
  9. @wyattuphaus Sounds like you might have something caught in the shuttle,take it out & clean it & re-install & oil the groove it rides in & report back.
  10. You have to grind the sides of the spring down so they do not stick out past the outside diameter of the needle bar. I assume that is what you mean by a lot of sanding. Also file down the grove in the needle bar cut out if here is a thread grove worn in it. glenn
  11. not fully finished yet 1st large mask trying to make.
  12. hello, yes, everyone likes their own. I always want to make things as original as possible. Here, someone already had the base sandblasted and powder coated a couple of years ago, and it is very nice. However, I might not do thes. I will certainly not paint the machine, because it is not new, I want to see 100 years of history, while mechanically I want it to be in a good condition as possible. I didn't know there were several different baseframes. I would appreciate pictures. My machine is from 1920, why do you think the base is not from the original? Yes, the parts give me a lot of trouble because they look almost identical. Some fit, some don't. I don't have enough knowledge to know what goes together, even if it's not the same model. So I appreciate your help.
  13. like the idea of making the brim bend to any shape. are you looking at using leather or something like felt for the brim?
  14. what part is the belly of the brim would that just be the middle & what did you find worked best to help keep the water from changing shape of the leather? thank you & yes a tough project. yes 1 piece crown thought would be easier for me. one you made looks nice, hope mine comes out nice looking once dyed. I see some speak of cleaning leather before dying is that something I should do, if so what should I use? very nice
  15. yea dress it as any outdoor leather product would be or if the weather is really bade try one of these.https://www.bootbarn.com/boot-barn-hat-protector/2000213392.html?msclkid=fc136922fdd310ed4b160f0bf352467a&utm_campaign=Shopping&utm_content=hats&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=bing&utm_term=4583176819036973
  16. I think I might be tempted to use a product like a Sno-Seal, used to waterproof hiking boots and other leather outdoor equipment; especially if it'll be worn for extended periods through rain and weather. Adding any product can change coloration (usually darkening), and could potentially cause leather to bend or flex, so it's always advisable to test it first in an inconspicuous place.
  17. Can anyone tell me which model of Singer this is? Based on serial number it shows to be a Series 31 but I've bought numerous bobbin hooks for a 31-15 and they are slightly too large and are binding when turning the hand wheel. Also recently bought a Series 15 and it fit too large as well....almost EXACTLY like the "31-15"'s I orderd. Maybe I was sent the wrong parts originally...not sure...... Any help would be appreciated. TIA
  18. With the stand you can do anything you like that you think looks good . Your frame is not the original pattern that was made when the machine was made . There are 3 versions, the one you have is the second generation which came out in the 1920's it is also the most common and in my view the best looking pattern . I will send you some photos of all 3 variations of my restored machines to give you a look at the differences . I think i have posted a few on this site somewhere before . I just got a new phone with a better camera so i will post some more on this thread using better lighting . I restore 29k's to suit my aesthetics black is not my preferred color . The way i see it is there are thousands of black originals in various conditions in the world but not many like mine . They are fun to work on ,simple yet functional and not at all hard to use . Although some parts look identical from different variations of the machine they are not . When sourcing replacement parts always make sure part numbers are identical .The part numbers are stamped on the parts. But most of all be patient , very patient . I waited 10 years to find replacement gears for a 29K53 , then found 2 complete gear boxes in the same month . Go figure .
  19. I make leather cozies for my fruit fly traps - just plastic containers with diluted vinegar, which frequently get wet. To keep waterproof, I apply several layers of diluted resolene, then wax and then petroleum jelly, buffing each thoroughly. It works well and no excessive shine either.
  20. If I remember correctly, the Pfaff 145 is not so easy to take apart. I'm pretty sure you will need to reset the timing on it due the screws you have to remove. It does make it a great time to clean and lubricaate everything under there. If the thread is all balled up underneath the hook, it's a good chance that the safety was tripped - it will then show up as a really out of time machine.
  21. I'm guessing you mean in the bobbin area. I've done it a time or two. You should be able to get it out with tweezers, screwdrivers scissors and assorted pointy things. I'm thinking it's under the hook? I've never had to pull the hook to clear one, but even that's not too hard. A couple of screws underneath, if I remember right. You'll get it. I've had the hook out of mine a couple of times. It's a good exercise just to give you a better understanding of how the machine works.
  22. While looking for solutions for the vital parts, I have made cosmetic fixes. While my 29k-2 was falling on hard times, it lost some part of letter G. I decided to recreate it. I modeled a 3d model, printed it and then glued it where it should be. At this point I would like to ask if anyone knows what was originally painted gold on the baseframe? Were the company signs on the sides also gold?
  23. Thanks for the reply. I looked at what they have and I can only find the gear from the shuttle hook. Well, during this time I also got an offer for the original piece, which is less worn.
  24. How strong should this spring be? On my original, a channel was made by the thread. I ordered an aftermarket spring, which is apparently half as weak (even the thickness of the material is half of the original). It also took quite a bit of sanding to get it in place. I haven't tested it yet as I have quite a few other pieces to fix before then. Thanks!
  25. If the safety clutch is disengaged it won't sew and leave loops on the bottom.
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