Stamping
Geometric tools, basketweave, 3D stamps and alphabet and number sets. Learn to make patterns to suit your style.
527 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
- 27 replies
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Here is another way I lay out angled baskets. Actually this is the way I do most of them now, especially for strap work. It involves no templates, and the angles may be just a bit different for the same stamp than my template method. First off, I make a light horizontal impression to establish a stamp width mark in the corner. I exxagerated the impression a bit for illustration purposes. I set one leg on this mark, and the other end of the same leg on the base line. This is my first impression. I then use that angle, setting the next impression against the base line and lining up the leg with the previous impression. I stamp an entire horizontal row. I then line up th…
Last reply by OLDNSLOW, -
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- 1 follower
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I do a lot of this type border around inlays or to break up a large area of basket stamoping on round things like rope bags and rope cans. I put in the border I use on a lot of these too. I scribe my borders inside and out, and then stamp in the rope stamp impressions. I normally start on the outside for wider borders or tighter arcs. I think these cans have a 15" circle or so. I used that pattern to make this arc. I line up the first row of impressions with the legs just barely overlapping, They will overlap more as we work in. If you start on the inside of the arc, Murphy's law says your impressions will be too wide and not meet when you get to the outer row. Mu…
Last reply by ryankim3612, -
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First of three little tutorials on how I lay out basket stamping. This first one is using a template to establish the angle. To make a template, I take a piece of firm scrap and lay out a base line. I stamp one row, then a row above leaving off one impression until I have a triangle. I marked the outline on the scrap of how I cut that triangle. Depending on your stamp and your personal amount of overlap, that exact angle can be different even with the same stamp. Next I took some rectangular scrap, cut in a border line and lightly beveled the inside cut. I took my template, layed the flat side on the cut line, and scribed the angle line in. Next step was stamping alt…
Last reply by bruce johnson, -
Arbor Press 1 2 3 4
by Luke Hatley- 30 replies
- 28k views
have any of you fine folks used or is using the Arbor Press from Harbor Frieght to emboss 3-d stamps with? and were you satisified with it ?
Last reply by Ammodawg321, -
- 9 replies
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Hi guys I wanted to stamp leather with ink and seal it with mink/neatsfoot oil. Does that work? I don't want to pay 37 bucks for a custom ink stamp and not have it work! Here is the site I found if anyones interested http://www.thestampmaker.com/Departments/Upload-Your-Own-Design.aspx
Last reply by Egyptian, -
- 2 followers
- 25 replies
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Greetings All Lay out your pattern. [photo 1] Cut the outside of the tooling pattern, then I put in a beader blade, cut that inside border. Find the center of your tooling piece and mark the center [outside of the tooling piece] Place ruler /straight edge on center line and weight it down. Basket stamp of your choice, lightly tap first impression [to get angle of arrow, you'll just have to play with the 1st angle after that, it usually self aligns ] [photo #2] Lightly stamp tool impressions using the straight edge for guide. [GO WITH DIRECTION OF ARROW] Take away ruler/ straight edge and strike impressions. [GO WITH DIRECTION OF ARROW] [photo #3] Turn piece…
Last reply by Equiplay Saddlery, -
Is it just me or is it really hard to get a clean pattern with Tandy tri weave stamps? No matter how hard i try it seems the tool itself prevents a good crisp design. I know there has to be a reason for the major difference in prices between tandy stamps and other makers. Is the difference worth the price? Any suggestions on a good Tri Weave?
Last reply by Rockoboy, -
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I have ended up with a fair number of 3D stamps, and have really been struggling with getting them to imprint on leather. I have tried several different things - dry leather, cased leather, wet leather. Hammering it to death, hand-pressure, different hammers and different surfaces. Nothing seems to do it. I know I'm missing something! If anyone can point me to a decent 3D stamp instruction or help me along, I would REALLY appreciate it.
Last reply by Stan, -
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This is my first project using an alphabet set. I have been carving out my own freehand style lettering in the past on the few personalized projects I've made. The top of the leather shield needed to fit 14 letters with some spacing in between. Bottom section needs to fit various length last name on each shield. So I had to order a small 1/4" alphabet set for this Firefighter shield project. I designed the layout for this shield to be able to accommodate the top lettering the best.
Last reply by JerseyFirefighter, -
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I'm having trouble keeping my basketweave stamping aligned properly and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Can anyone help troubleshoot by looking at these photos?The leather is Wickett & Craig 7/8 oz shoulder, which seems to take the tooling much differently than the Tandy leather that I had before. The left side was done first, and it was probably too wet which could be at least part of the problem. I also made the impressions nice and deep, and this gave me problems trying to line up the stamp in the previous mark because of the differences in height between stamped and unstamped areas (if that makes sense.)The right side was allowed to dry to a more properly 'c…
Last reply by scottyslife,
