Trox

Okay I see, thanks!

Hi, sorry for the late reply's. Thank you for the link, that was certainly cheap. That shape of roller is much better than the long one that followed my machine, much easier to adjust. Mine doesn't equals the shape of the stone roller anymore. I may customize it, cutting away half but the bearing needs to be replaced as well. I will order the one you have but is the hole tapered as on Italian machines (like on mine Alpha SM, FAV etc.) looks like you got a gap there, material thickness different maybe? Thanks Tor

Thanks, I already have the foot that Tom E shared a link about. But it has been worn a bit by previous owner, it came with my machine that I bought used many years ago. I guess I can make a new roller for it on my lathe. The roller profile do not longer match the profile of the feed wheel... difficult to adjust for splitting use. The minimalistic guide for turns and stiffer leather makes most skiving tasks in soft leather difficult. I really miss a decent guide. Thanks Tor

Thank You, I already have that roller foot that came with my Italian machine. Do Randall have this guide as well? The Italians are notorious difficult to deal with. Even if I'm much closer to Italy, I prefer dealing with USA. Now before Trump's tax are in play. Thanks Tor

Hi Uwe, I like the stand you have built for your Adler. I'm looking to build a couple of tables like that for some leather machines. Are the legs available online? Thanks Tor

These types of stands had knee lifters, but since you don't have one a pedal attached to a tube around the tramp shaft would do the job.

Hi, is it your machine in the video? You are wild Harry? I'm looking for a wide guide like the one on you skiver. That roller foot also looks good, I got one that came with my machine but it's pretty worn out. Where did you get this. Thanks Tor

I know this is an old post, I had to make a new such piece myself when I bought my 267-373 years ago. Made it from a piece of hard plastic, the old way with saw and file. Then I ordered one from my local DA dealer, price was under 10 US$. Lesson learned, check availability first. By the way, even when your machine may not be supported anymore. This part is the same on the newer machines , 267, 268 and 269. Maybe on more models too.

Yes these machines aren't made for anything larger than max 20 thread, maybe 15 on top and 20 in the bobbin. I guess you even have trouble getting anything thicker than 20 in to the needle bar thread guide. Using anything thicker is just the same as asking for trouble. I don't think your machine even have a hook safety clutch, birds nests could get real serious.

A BUSM #4

Some black dye are containing iron, that is an early method of making black leather dye. Or some tanning chemicals may be magnetic. As mentioned before a piece of steel could be inside the leather. Some steel rubbed off inside the holster, like the black on the stropping board after polishing. Or its just the surface stats sticking to it.

Nice job! I was going to ask you about the weldability of the Pfaff cast iron, but you didn't weld that; it was a Singer part you welded. Related to you questions about the stitch length, I assume you know there must be an "N" in your subclass number if it's a 6 mm max stitch length machine. N=6 mm maximum stitch length. There are plenty of pictures of your subclass plate but their resolution are to bad, I can't read it. If you do not already have the 345 H3 service manual I can share that with you. I has no pictures and they use some special "gouge" parts for adjustment, these are listed in the last pages of the part list. When you adjust this machine you got to do control all adjustments in chronological order. About the special Pfaff adjustment gouge parts we do not have access to: To measure the needle bar lift I use a caliper and the needle bar lock just a hose clamp etc. Let me know if you need the service manual, I've shared it here before.

It's an option on all motors if you want the needle to stop down or up when you heel the pedal, it must be down. But you won't get this to stop where's supposed to with a speed reducer. It's bases on a 360° rotation with a belt direct to the machines pulley. Expensive position motor controllers can account for belt slippage, but no system will calculate for an extra belt and two pulleys. There aren't any motors that can do that. I've seen some have put the synchronizer head on the speed reducer instead of the machine handwheel. But still it will not be accurate. Luckily these motors will work without the syncro head. Expensive motor systems like Efka won't run without a synchronizer. But on Chinese cheap motors the syncro head is just a 15$ extra. Most of these systems aren't accurate anyway. It's important that these systems are accurate, it has to stop at exactly the same place/degree of the revolution every time. It's when the needle has past it's lowest position and picked the bobbin thread. If it stops earlier and you raise the foot to turn your work a stitch will be skipped. To late and the needle is out of the work. I know the earliest Chinese designes wasn't any good, but they should have been able to figure this out by now. German motor brands have use this system since the 1970 ties. The problem is that accurate servo systems are expensive to make. Accurate speed controls too. There are enough power in these motors, people put speed reducers on them to get better speed control. With the price of the reducer and motor combined your not far from what a proper motor system costs.

Thanks but he don't need that part fixed, it's just a extra feature for handicapped people who can't lift more than 200 grams. Nothing wrong with handicapped people, but it's not worth using time fixing; this the machine will work just fine without it. Most machines doesn't have this feature, anyway. I won't use anymore time on this.

I try to explain this again. You do not need to change this lever (pic 1) Just run a chain from the lever true the hole in the base, see arrow pic 1. Drill a corresponding hole in the table and run a chain to the pedal. Pic 2: I don't know where you found this underlined part, it looks like it fits so it's probably the same. If you find it that's great, if not it's simple to make. If it's to long or to short, modify it. I would just make it, that would be much faster than even write a post about it. Pic 3: You see this isn't the same presser foot lifting lever/arm as on our machines, so you can't use the angle iron part from this one without changing the arm/lever to. The design is changed, I would think the one in my part list is a later design; because it allows a height adjustment. Just use the arm in pic 1 you already have.. You don't need the geared linkage who's probably there to making it easier to lift with a knee lever lift. It's not necessary! Not even if you have a knee lifter, it's not a heavy lift. There is nothing wrong with your presser foot lifting lever/arm!? You don't need messing with that geared assisted linkage, there are plenty of Pfaff machines that didn't come with that extra feature.