Digit

@Tigweldor I believe @dikman suggests to replace the clutch pedal with a pedal that controls the VFD and somehow lock the clutch motor into a direct drive (because the OP finds the clutch impossible to control). As I mentioned: this risks overheating the motor because it is not designed to run at slow speeds. If you're going out of your way to transform a clutch motor into a servo-ish motor, then I think it's better to replace it with a proper servo.

I've had a positive experience with a cheap Chinese VFD (see Powering three-phase skiver motor), but note that clutch motors are designed for continuous running at a constant speed. Their built-in cooling fan is designed to provide adequate cooling at that speed. If you lower rpm for any prolonged time, the motor will draw more current (increasing heat production) and lower the fan speed (decreasing cooling). The combination will risk your motor to overheat and burn through. You say the clutch isn't operating smoothly. Could it be that it's clutch plate deteriorated from long-time use at slipping speeds? I have no experience with clutch motor clutches, but does anyone perhaps know if these are wet or dry? And if wet, maybe the oil has leaked out and needs replacing?

As far as I'm aware there are two different snap designs: s-type and ring-type. An s-type snap has a ball on the male side and an opening on the female side in which two parallel spring bars are visible (on the inside these form an s-shape, hence the snap type name). A ring-type snap has an upright rim on the male side and a loose-fitting circular spring on the female side. S-type snaps have two small contact areas between each spring bar and the ball, so they come apart easily. These are mostly used in clothes for closing pockets or a zipper cover in a jacket. Ring-type snaps have a full circle of contact area and are harder to open and close. Depending on the material from which the spring is made, they come in different hardnesses. My supplier has snaps with a brass ring ('normal') and with a copper ring ('hard'): https://www.lederhuis.com/nieten/drukknoop.php?l=e&action=warenkorb&L=Nieten_Druckknopf If you're using s-type snaps, try switching to ring-types. If you're already using those, try finding ones with different spring material, or larger ones (large snaps have more contact area between rim and spring, so they are stronger). If they still come loose too easily, try doubling up or tripling up on snaps.

I doubt it. My teacher used to work in the prototyping department of Delvaux. After prototyping a new bag it goes to the factory in Brussels where people in aprons and white gloves work in complete silence on an assembly line, each performing one specific task over and over again. In Belgium this story was fact checked and considered misleading. Luxury brands typically require subcontractors to sign NDAs. Some of those luxury parts can well be made in China and some assembly done too, but not by the people in the video clips (one of those manufacturers apparently has a website registered only in Feb 2025 and and used to sell Chinese electric cars a year ago).

is says "N° SERIE" (the numero symbol), which would more appropriately read as "numéro de série" (French), "número de serie" (Spanish), "numero di serie" (Italian) or any other romance language or English. In German (as in Dutch) I would expect "serienummer" with 'nummer' abbreviated as 'Nr'.

A very hard and durable type of wood found easily in Europe would be the invasive Robinia Pseudoacacia (false acasia, black locust). Easiest found commercially as fence posts over here in Belgium, which gives you a nice base to cut (smallish diameter) discs from to then lathe some grooves on.

For cutting out panels I use a heavyweight paper (200-250g/m²) to create a template to the final size of the leather, place the template onto the grain side, trace around it with a silver pen, then cut out the leather on the inside of the ink. On smooth leather the silver rubs off easily with a damp cloth.

I've got several of those lying around. One of them is currently powering a workplace heater (a Chinese Webasto clone) off a tranfsormer. As long as the incandescent bulb keeps working I'll use that one. I'm not a fan of flickering LED lights (even with a cap on the rectifier they still flicker).

If you don't have a needle positioning system, then experiment with turning the handwheel to find the 'correct' position before changing stitching direction or you might undo the last forward stitch on the first reverse stitch. The needle should be down and the interlock made. If the needle is down but the lock isn't made, you're going to pull the top thread right back out and you'll have a hole without any thread in.

Practice makes perfect. Use scrap pieces of leather or very thick textile (folded over to match leather thickness) to test your stitches and thread tension. Experiment with thread sizes and stitch lengths, just make sure your needle size is adjusted to the thread size and your stitch length is adjusted to the material thickness (larger stitches for thicker material). Use different color upper and lower thread while testing thread tension: correct tension means you don't see bits of the lower thread color on top and no bits of upper thread color on the bottom stitch. You mentioned your machine has a servo motor. Does it come with a needle positioning system? If so, practice stitch-by-stitch sewing to get a feel of the pedal control. Also practice stitching at the slowest possible speed. Try to visually align the edge of your piece with the needle plate or presser foot and practice making straight stitches that are perfectly parallel with the edge of the piece or other stitches. When sewing two or more bits together, keeping things in place is the hardest part. With textile you can use pins, but those leave a mark on leather. With leather you can use contact adhesive or double-side tape to set your pieces together before stitching them (just make sure your glue is dry before stitching and don't stitch through tape; both can mess up your needle).

The VFD I ordered has arrived and I hooked it up last weekend. I've left the original switch in the 3-phase circuit because on inspection it contained an overload protection circuit. I guess that when the motor does overload, the VFD would switch off earlier than the elements in the old switch have time to warm up, but having a backup protection doesn't hurt. It took some looking though the manual to find the few things I needed to configure among a gazillion possible settings, but now that I have it configured it's simply a matter of turning the motor on with the green button on the VFD and turning the motor off with the red button. Added bonus is the configurable wind-down time: I've set it to three seconds so that the motor is actively stopped instead of it taking over a minute of free spin when it was powered directly from the mains. I'll probably be adding easier-to-operate external start and stop buttons in the future and hide the VFD under the bench. Added bonus: the motor has some mid-winding leads (so an auto-transformer actually) going to the junction box to offer 12V AC to power an auxiliary incandescent light, which still works. @Tigweldor The VFD fan can be set to automatic, which means that it only runs when necessary, which apparently means from half a second after the motor is started to half a minute after the motor has been turned off. It doesn't bother me too much though; it makes about the same amount of noise as the motor itself and it will only be running for short amounts of time. I never have huge amounts of leather to skive.

The .75kW one of this listing: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007944151596.html

Thank you all for the replies. Belgium is basically the sticks in the electro/mechanical field. Labour is so expensive over here that most small industries have moved away or went out of business decades ago and the associated tools have been sold off or scrapped. I'm also under the impression that over here there is very little interest in tinkering with stuff; that means there's not much of a second-hand market (complete machines or loose components) or scrap yards where you can find parts. The skiver I've bought was actually a rare find, especially given its age. It was used by a now retired shoemaker and his successor prefers to use a more modern machine and sold this one. I've tested it in the seller's workshop and I was surprised by the reasonable quietness of the motor and the suppleness of the clutch. The plate on the motor mentions the factory in Leinfelden which, according to the company's website, started in 1960. From 1985 they started making servo motors. Given this info and the motor's build quality I guess it must have been made somewhere in the sixties. I'm not planning to install 3-phase power just yet. In Belgium there's 3ph arriving in most homes, but historically only one phase was hooked up and the utility companies alternated phases between houses to get them balanced. With the advent of electric cars and solar panels, new houses are more likely to get a proper 3-phase connection. Upgrading an existing single phase connection to three phases costs nearly as much as I paid for this skiver and would additionally require an inspection of the full electrical installation, which isn't free either. Since there is an abundant supply of three-phase power in Belgium (albeit with a price tag), even to remote areas, and there has been for decades, there is no market for rotary phase converters (new or second hand). @Cumberland Highpower I know I can run a three-phase motor on single phase using a Steinmetz connection (capacitors), but it's not very efficient and could risk overheating the motor by running it underpowered. @Dwight I get what you're saying and it would make sense from a business perspective. However I do this as a hobby and for the moment I can still use the skivers at school, so there's no real pressure to get mine working. Also, contrary to most other Belgians, I do like to tinker with stuff and try things out. @Tigweldor as I understand it, VFDs use an inverter to rectify incoming AC to DC and then produce simulated AC by pulsing DC (PWM) on successive phases; this pulsing can produce an audible whine in the motor, which you can reduce by tuning the carrier frequency. The VFD can produce 380V if it includes a step-up-converter in the DC line. @Northmount I have no intention to run the motor on a different speed than it was made for, so cooling shouldn't be a problem as long as I vacuum the accumulated dust from the motor's grill. Anyway, the clutch allows me to tune the speed of the skiver using the pedal. To conclude, I've ordered a single-phase 230V to three-phase 380V Chinese VFD and I'll see where that gets me. I'll keep you guys updated.

Hi all, I've just bought an old bell skiver (Fortuna) powered by a three-phase clutch motor. I don't have three-phase power at home, so now I'm looking at possible options to get this machine running. Option one: replace the clutch motor with a servo. This comes with the downside of losing the vintage esthetics and the need to get the servo motor speed-calibrated correctly. Option two: buy a variable frequency drive (VFD) to convert single-phase to three-phase to power the motor. This also loses a little bit of the vintage esthetic, but the VFD can be hidden under the bench more easily I guess. For this option I have two directions to go in. The clutch motor states 220/380V, so that means it can be hooked up to either a three-phase 220V supply when connected in Delta, or to a three-phase 380V supply when connected in Wye. Searching for VFDs I find both 1p/220V-to-3p/220V units and 1p/220V-to-3p/380V units. When I use the former I'd have to connect the motor in Delta, when I use the latter I need to connect it in Wye. Does one or the other have a preference? Can VFDs be used for either Delta or Wye connection or do they assume one of the two?

Why not use chrome tan on both sides? Possibly with a reinforcement tape in between? A while ago I've used two layers of 1.2mm (3oz) chrome tan with a reinforcement tape sandwiched in between as a leg strap for a leg bag. I's very thin, soft and supple.

Hi all, I've been lurking in these forums and occasionally replying for a few weeks now. Time for a proper introduction. I'm from a town near Antwerp, Belgium. In my day job I'm a software programmer and to compensate for the cerebral work I like to use my hands. I've been attending evening classes since 2005: four years of woodworking, two years of welding, two years of photography, four years of metal turning and milling, a four-year electrician's course, and past September I've started a four-year course of leatherwork. Some of the things I've made in school so far: First exercise: tassel (learning how to cut and glue leather) Next, a strap with small carabiner (gluing layers of leather and reinforcement, using the belt cutter, machine stitching, rivet press): A small round coin pouch (learning to cut round shapes): A small card holder (first use of the skiver): A small folding pouch (with pigskin liner glued to the leather): A pencil pouch (pigskin liner, skived edges, inside seams): A glasses case (reinforcement and liner glued in a curved form): And finally a small toiletry bag (inside seams, loose suede liner, zipper stitched in between outer leather and liner): It's been a steep learning curve so far, but I'm enjoying it a lot. All of these were school assignments; I've made some other stuff on my own as well, but that's for another post.

Could the number of posts per page be made configurable in the user profile? I rather liked to see all recent posts on the first page of any subforum (I'd probably even set it to 50 or so).

I was thinking more of some kind of antibacterial spray like https://www.dettol.co.uk/household-disinfection/multi-purpose-cleaning/dettol-mould-mildew-remover-spray-original-750-ml/ or https://www.dettol.co.uk/household-disinfection/everyday-cleaning/dettol-surface-cleanser-spray-500-ml/ Or you could try pouring some 60-90% isopropanol in a spray bottle and use that. Isopropanol is the active antibacterial ingredient in most alcohol gels; I wouldn't try smearing an actual gel on leather. Note that the first one seems to contain bleach; always test first to see if whatever you apply on leather doesn't cause discoloration.

You can use all sorts of reinforcements for chrome tan leather, depending on the sturdyness and thickness you want. Salpa (bonded leather) comes in several thicknesses (0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 1.0mm), there's also Velodon, Texon, and you can use just about any type of woven textile cloth or canvas as well. Just glue it to the leather with PVA and make sure you sew around the edges to keep the layers from peeling. If you use some porous reinforcement (eg textile) it'll be a mess of glue of course. Any mess or ugly reinforcement you can hide with thin leather lining on the inside, such as pigskin.

I've heard of people using Dettol to combat mold on leather, which apparently worked. I haven't tried it myself.

I got taught to use contact adhesive, then sew with a left toe walking foot. The CA should keep the pieces aligned. Do use contact adhesive and not PVA/white glue or something. I haven't used double-sided tape for leather seams yet (I did get warned by my teacher to never sew through tape though), but from experience elsewhere I can imagine it would more easily come loose than CA while manipulating the leather when sewing.

When you're going to try machine stitching close around magnets or any other non-stichable material, the walking foot (or presser foot) will hit the magnet. If the magnet is not too thick this might work, otherwise you're in for bumpy ride. I'd suggest to cut your leather large enough (or choose your magnets small enough) so that they stay out of the way of the machine's feet. First glue the magnets inside the leather parts, then stitch around. Having magnetism around a sewing machine isn't much of a problem; there are magnetic edge guides you can stick to the plate to assist you. Unless the magnet is very strong, a triple transport machine shouldn't have much problems dragging it along; you might need to put in some extra effort in guiding the leather to accomplish a nice stitching line.

That's exactly the Chinese creaser I have. I guess the brand name in the display can be OEM'd. The detail photo of the creasing tip shows a horrible MIG spot weld btw; at least my tips have been grinded down and nickle-coated _after_ any welding was done :-) If you do want to save money, buy it straight from AliExpress I'd say instead of having it dropshipped by someone adding a margin. This is mine: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001298911899.html

About durability: I believe the Regad machines at school were bought 4 or 5 years ago when the course started up and they're running pretty much 6-8 hours per day, 5 days per week. It looks like they simply contain a transformer and some circuit to control the temperature (probably PWM). The Chinese unit I have does have electronics to power the display and provide a simple one-button menu system. It would likely fail earlier than a Regad, but at these prices I can consume a lot of Chinese units before reacing the cost of a Regad and that will talke some years I guess.

Yes it was the cost. I'm just a hobbyist and I only use it occasionally for edge finishing; I can't tax-write off such investments :-) A single-outlet machine costs around 380, a handle 170, tips between 160 and 180 depending on type. My Chinese model cost around 100 (machine, handle, three tips) and around 12 per extra tip. All prices Euro including tax, but you get the idea. Maybe when I start using it more often I could invest in a Regad in the future, but for now I'm still learning and building experience (both with leather working and with this machine). For edge burning it's definitely an improvement over the lighter gas soldering iron I used before :-)