Trox

Hi, The model number is on the brass plate on your first picture: Class, subclass and equipment. Then type "B" and "L" stands for leather normally with Pfaff. The 134 number on the needle plate is the needle system Schmetz 134. Thats a short needle system used on many German sewing machines before. (like Adler 67 and 69 and older Pfaff) I do not know this machine class. However, it looks like a zigzag to me. I cannot tell without seeing the hole needle plate. If you send the number on the brass sign to Pfaff http://www.pfaff-industrial.com/pfaff/en/pfaffstart?set_language=en&cl=en they will provide you with info you need. I see the first letter on the brass plate is under the nail, you better send the picture to them too, or the link to this post. The people in Pfaff is very helpful, I am sure they will give you the info you need. Good luck Tor

Hi, In the blog of Thomas Brinkhoff , head of spare part business Dürkopp Adler AG. http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html You will find a download section of vintage technical documents. There you will find spare part lists and manuals of the class 104 (flatbed) and 105 (cyl.bed). Because they are the same machine you will often find them in the same manual. All subclasses of the 104/105 threads the same. When you start the download nothing will appear on your screen before its done, just be patient and wait for it (the manual its 32 MG in size) . For that same reason I will not be able to send you a copy of my manual by email. The 105-64 will sew different layers better with a roulette roller foot, CowboyBob (of Toledo Industrial sewing machine) sells them. Good luck with your new fine machine. Tor

Erik is polite, Massive shows the good stuff right there. Thesergeant, Its nice with a big table if you have room for it. You can glue and screw an other plate from the bottom to make your table stronger. Tor

Thank you, I will look in to it.

Thank you Erik, when you say so I might reconsider. You have the switch connected to the sewing pedals/ motors pitman's rod. Thats a simple and good solution. My air system is not up and running yet, I am going to change compressor to a silent one. The machine do not use much air, I must see how much its left when the system is up an running. I have a big compressor but its to noisy so I am changing it so I can listen to the radio. In the mean time I will follow Massive`s advice and prelube the thread. Thank you Massive. Some of the thread I am using is prelubed Coats Gral and it not that hot. Erik, How do you regulate the air flow, do you make a small hole in tube or do you use a regulator? 1/8 its about 3 mm. copper tubing maybe the same who is used on refrigerators

This one cost 125 £ http://leprevo.co.uk...lough-knife.htm its made by wood ware rep. (sons of Barnsley). It looks like a kitchen tool, but I am sure it works well. I have a new German plough in my collection, however that cost about 310 Euro. A bit less than a small Blanchard, but still expensive. Here compared to a 10 cm Blanchard plough, I would put in an extra 50 euro and buy a Blanchard instead. I have a Dixon and A old Mayer Flamery too. What makes a plough good, I believe its the steel in the knife ( the guide and frame has to be straight of course) My favorite these days is a old 15 cm Mayer Flamery plough, it has a very good knife. Thats the reason the old ones are expensive, hand made good steel in them. Tor

I finally got my self a big old Sandt clicking machine that works very well. If I had not found this machine I would have made my self one from a shop press. The clicking area is small compared to a hand operated clicker press. Nevertheless, the shop press is stronger and more transparent; you have nice control with the dies. You do not have to use more force than needed to cut true the leather. It also works with bigger embossing plates than the hand clicker. The shop press have less space and is slower to use. Nevertheless, the hand clicker cost way to much. The shop press is the winner here, no doubt about it. Tor

Hi, how wide are you able to split with your American hand crank, and what will you sell the Tandy # 84 splitter for. The handle does it lock on your splitter? Thanks Tor

Thanks, I have better things to do with my time than mopping up oil. No offense, i use that saw dust myself to remove motor oil on the garage floor. This time I will take my good friend the leather gurus advice and pay someone else to do the work for a change. (Then I can be busy making money on leather work instead) I will buy a finished little air cooler system that will fit right on with a magnet and plugs and play with my air system. Its a port on the back of my Efka motor than can be used to control it, if I want too( however, thats not necessary) I could fabricate a tubing system myself. However I doubt it will be any cheaper, and I know it will not be any better. I always seems to forget the amount of time used on projects like that, you got to find parts , buy it, fabricate it and so on. Its sometimes fun and the time just flies by. This is a click on the Internet, then plug and play. And the best thing, no more silicon. By the way, you make very nice leather tools Thanks Tor

Nothing is "solid" when it comes from Ikea. Those plates are called "hobby plates" here and made by 23 mm soft pine, used for book shelf and flower pots. The wood is taken from the outside layers of the log and curl up whit a three degree weather change . With a frame around its of course stronger. Ikea uses only the cheapest stuff and child labor, Its reasonable priced however. Maybe Ikea has managed to make a name for them self in the USA, here they fool nobody. I have installed a fair amount of Ikea kitchens in my time, I know what I talking about. ( cra........) Before all tops where made of 2 inch American plywood, now they use the bad fiber plates (particle board); they do not hold up. I have a plate like that on my Adler 204 machine/ with a heavy Efka variostop underneath. The table moves ten inches sideways every time the motor kicks in. The particle board sucks up water and give bad support for screws, the vibration from the machine makes it all worse. They do not use water proof particle boards in those cheap sewing machine tops, they do not hold up for long. I know it is a economy crisis, but come on. Its better to spend a couple of dollars more the first time than have to do it all over again when it breaks down. I know Erik will agree with me, he knows that is the most economical solution in the long run. Tor

Overkill? those ikea plates are 23 mm soft pine, Using two of them is no overkill. Its normal to use 50 mm in table tops, and better material than the crappy ikea stuff. I already regret using them. However, thats what I had when I did the top. I forgot to mention its a heavy Adler 105 going on the top of it.

Thank you for all good ideas, there are many advantages by using air. But I will not install a system that make the compressor run all the time, thats one of the advantages with this mini cooler. It uses a small amount of compressed air to produce cold air 20 deg. Fahrenheit. I will test it before buying it, they sell it here in Norway too. Many times I sew thing before coloring too, with air I have the option to do so.

Yes Art, you are right about that. I know the big spot coolers use much air, this is a mini version of it. First time I saw it was on a sail maker machine. Now it looks like its the new thing on heavy machines http://www.exair.com/en-US/Primary%20Navigation/Products/Vortex%20Tubes%20and%20Spot%20Cooling/Mini%20Cooler/Pages/Mini%20Cooler.aspx This is very small, here it is on a sail maker machine.http://www.solentsew.co.uk/products/SOLENT-SLH%252d2B%252dFH%252d1%252d870-COMPLETE.html

Yes, thats the cheapest solution. If I have some money that burns in my pocket I can buy this cool Little mini cooler system that pimps up my machine too. Yes, I am a gadget/machine freak and I am not ashamed of it. This silicon lube was more slippery than all other lubrication fluids I have ever seen, even my four legged friends has trouble crossing that workshop floor. I am afraid I am going to slide in to my old clicking machine, then its game over... tilt and flat pack...no more leather work for me. Two hundred and eighty dollars is a small price to pay compared to that.

Maybe un cooled air is enough I never tried it? The mini cooler has a heat exchanger that cools down the air, then you do not have to run the compressor all the time. This system do not use much air, a open tube uses allot. Then you have to use a nozzle on the cobber tube, that might work. Thats easy to find out.

Thanks for the replay, I will certainly look for some oil dry Bob. However, I will try to avoid that much excess oil spill on the floor. Oltoot, there are no stripper tube or O rings in my lube pots. The thread comes out on the top, true a hole in the lid. Its the same kind of pot on two of my Adler's too (cast iron pots), it is no O ring in any of them. The machine I am using now is a 441 clone, before I used my Adler class 5 and 105. The Adler`s have a shorter needle system (328), they never get as hot as the longer 794 system do. I never had any heat problems with the Adler`s, on this machine needle cooling is a must. I am wondering about some spot air cooling instead of lube. Since I am building on a air foot lift on this machine, I have air for a mini cooler system. http://www.exair.com/en-US/Primary%20Navigation/Products/Vortex%20Tubes%20and%20Spot%20Cooling/Mini%20Cooler/Pages/Mini%20Cooler%20System.aspx You see the principals here http://www.exair.com/en-US/Primary%20Navigation/Products/Vortex%20Tubes%20and%20Spot%20Cooling/Mini%20Cooler/Pages/How%20the%20Mini%20Cooler%20Works.aspx And here is a other system on the youtube: I looked at the mini cooler from Exair, its about 280 $. Its is smaller than the one in the video and have a magnet foot, it do not use much air. Silicon oil is not only a mess, but you cannot color the leather after sewing either. Silicon and paint do not mix. Anybody who have used this Mini cooler system please give us your opinion. I either have to built some kind of oil sump that gather up the excess oil or go for a air system. The air system looks like the easy way out of this mess. Thanks

Anybody who has a clever method of avoiding silicon thread lube all over the floor. My 441clone is squirts like an old tomcat, and my workshop floor is dangerously slippery. The lube is hard to wash of too. Any other solution than old towels and rags? How do you solve the this problem, please let me know. Thanks Tor

Thats an impressing stock of machines Steve, do you have a website to show them. I love to see old machines, that beats any books and TV program. Tor

I know those ikea plates they are to thin. I used two and glued them together. Normally you should cross the wood when you glue plates like this together so they do not bend as they dry out. However, when you making a flatbed table you do not have that option (as if you where making a top for a cylinderbed half the size). Add a couple of wooden stiffeners and some screws underneath, then it will do the trick. If you are going to make the stand legs underneath the table, do not use copper pipes or round tubes. Use square or rectangle steel tubes or profiled steel. You can also use wood, but remember these machines are heavy and they do not sit still. Its going a big motor underneath and the round legs will not take up the sideways force of it. You do not need a industrial look, but an industrial quality. If you do not have the option of welding the steel, you can bolt it together with screws. Good luck Tor

You have to call Steve first before posting, thats a universal (unwritten) law, always give the seller a change to make things right first. And do not worry, you will not find better customer service anywhere. Its a lot of things that can happen during transport. He will help you up and sewing, rest assure. Do not worry. Good luck Tor

Then you will do with what I call the upholstery class triple feed. You can get a new Chinese clone machine for around 1200 $. Check out or member dealers, give them a free call. (Banner top site, you can trust them) The best thing would be a cylinder bed, you can add a wooden table to it and it becomes a flat bed. Check the used for sale section. Good luck Tor

You will not find "specific numbers" in those post other than on some few heavy stitcher's. These are clone machines made in China. You will find the type of machine you need to sew leather in general; such as machine class and type of feed. Which brand who has these classes you got to find out yourself or ask in the forum. What kind of work are you going to do, thickness and thread class. And whats your budget. If you let us in on these questions, we will be able to point you in the right direction. When you look at the Internet you will find allot of cheap industrial machines everywhere. They are often cheap because they are not useful on leather. Those who are will achieve a higher marked price. Look for machine with triple feed (compound bottom, top and needle feed with alternating pressers) preferable a cylinder bed who takes heavy thread and are capable of sewing 3/8 of and inch or more. Triple feed classes with vertical rotating hook that sews up to 3/8" is called the upholstery class (threads up to tex 270). Classes who are able to sew more than a 1/2 " with heavy threads (more than tex 350) are called heavy stitcher's. These comes in different feeds, from bottom feed to triple feed. The triple feed heavy stitcher's are all expensive and fairly new. Good luck Tor

I am afraid one thousand dollars is not much when it comes to buy a triple feed industrial heavy stitcher new (or used). These are tools of the trade and starts on 2300 $ and up. The best thing you can do are looking in our "for sale" section or talk to members of this site. The member dealers (banners top site) often have used machines for sale too, give them a call (you can trust them) I will not recommend buying anything of the Ebay, even very experienced buyers can get burned there. You need to try the machine before buying, bring with you a work piece of what you are going to sew (and your budget) and visit a dealer. When you buy private you will not get support or warranty, the you must calculate this important things in price comparing. You can call the dealers on free numbers and ask what they have in stock, they may be able to help you financing too. Our member dealers Cobra, Cowboy, Techsew (and more) must answer to critics in this forum. They are all very helpful and gives help even if you have bought from someone else. The machines they sell are already set up to sew leather, when other machine often are not. It can be about 500 $ and up to set up a machine to sew leather (depended of brand and class). Often what seems to be the cheapest solution becomes the most expensive one. You are lucky to live in the USA where you have the option of several new Chinese clones leather machines. Do not buy several cheap machines that do not work and you cant get rid of. Get yourself a 441 clone right away, thats the best and cheapest solution in the long run. Good luck Tor

Check your threading, the thread has probably jumped out of the tension disk.

Hi, non of these machines are leather machines. The Adler class 37 are all tailor machines, the subclass -26 has alternating pressers and is made for sewing rubberized fabrics. The Singer 331 is bottom feed machine for fabrics too, and is not suitable for sewing leather. The Singer class 7-11 was made for sewing paper for the book industry. However the Singer class 7 is a very powerful machine, in the old days many of these was altered to leather machines. It was mostly the 7-33 and 31 (I believe) who has alternating pressers. They still have to big and clumsy foots to be any useful. The answer to your question, about what kind of machine you need to sew leather is answered in the pinned posts top of this forum. Good luck Tor