Trox

Hi Mr. Bullrope braider, I do not have the EPS Cobra motor, I do have three Efka position motors and the regular Cobra servo. It has the same manual (Instruction sheet) as the EPS. You should be able to choose what position your needle stops in. Turn on your motor and sew a couple of rotations (might not be necessary). When it stops press the up button (near the motors led display), the display then shows ” POS. u”, then press the down button and the led will show ” POS. d”. Your needle will now stop down as it should do, with a heel back it will return to up position. If the motor is a bit quick to accelerate you can try to adjust the ”slow startup speed” (the acceleration time on the motor from 1 to 9) Turn on motor and press down button for several seconds until led shows ”SET.1”, then the up button once; the led shows ”SET.1”, then press the down button. The number in the display now shows your startup speed (acceleration speed, default value is 6). You can now adjust the speed with the up and down buttons, 1 is fastest and 9 slowest. This function might not work after you have done the modification, before installing the mod. try out this function first. Good luck. Trox

Hi, I have a Dürkopp Adler 267-373 and I am very satisfied with it. Both Juki and Dürkopp Adler (DA) are top of the line machines. The Juki DDL 277 is to my knowledge not a walking foot machine, but a machine with bottom feed, maybe also needle feed. High-speed machine used for textiles. I do not know much about it, only that this is not a leather machine. The DA 267-373 is an upholstery class triple feed machine; bottom, upper and needle in a unison feed. It will sew up to 10, 12 mm. thick leather and up to (metric sizes) needle Nm 160, 180 (Singer sizes: 23 and 24). Polyester thread up to Tkt 15 to 13, these sizes might not tell you much; it is what we are using in Europe. I use my heavy 441 machine for thick leather and heavy thread; I never use this with bigger needles than Nm 140 (metric). The upholstery class machines will sew pretty thick, however not with very thick thread. I use this machine for leather backpack, handbags, belts and upholstery. My machine is equipped with an Efka DC 1600 position drive and is a dream to sew on. It has a large vertical hook and a built in bobbin winder. This is a reliable, straightforward walking foot (triple feed) machine. If you need a machine to sew material more than 3/8 inch and with heavy thread, more than Tex 180 (Polyester: tkt 13 Nm). You most buy a heavy stitcher like a triple feed Adler 205-370, Juki TSC 441 or Chinese clones. Alternative a top and bottom feed (Used) Adler 105, bottom feed (used) Singer 45K. A new Chinese bottom feed Cowboy 2500, Ferdco Baby bull, Techsew GA 5-1 or similar machine with an other name. Read pin topic about it and check out our dealers in the top of site banners for prices. Good luck to you. Trox

And thank you Bruce for yours. I understand your excitement he make the most beautiful knifes, it is Christmas all over for you tonight. I hope to see both PG knifes in their tools here later, maybe you will post some pictures of them later. Thanks Trox

My choice of motor. It does not matter if you have a great sewing machine if the motor is a piece of #%#&. The motor is as important to a sewing machine as it is for a car. I desided to take the step in to the 21st century and buy a professional motor for my TSC 441 clone. It had a clutch motor and a speed reducer, I changed these out for a Efka DC 1550 ( with a 321 control). First I thought I needed the speed reducer, but no. These motors are made to power any kind of sewing machine without any help from reductions gears. The nominal power is 600w, if more is needed just turn it up. It delivers max 1800 watt and a torque of 8 Nm (thats enough for any sewing application). It has needle position and is programable for all kind of stitch patterns (backtacking etc). You can attach all kinds of solenoids (24 should be enough I think, I am only using one for a pneumatic foot lift) and your computer too. (the control box is a computer, you can change everything or just plug in a memory stick and be ready to sew, certain sewing machines the motor will recognize, plug and play, and every parameter are set automatically) The low speed control is great. But the best of all, no matter where you bought it you will get support from EFKA Germany if you need it. I received Skype video-call support on programming it from them. Thank you Manfred with Efka; Down sides: you pay a bit more for this motor. Avantages; no need for a speed reducer, very small motor can be placed on the machine head, the best quality and world wide support, a true professional motor drive with the best preformance and low speed control. With other words; No bullshit. http://www.efka.net/en/Aktuelles/aktuelles.htm Thanks Trox

Thanks, I will give it a try.

I have a DA 267 , parts are no problem everything is avaiable, you get any feets and plates from Kwokhing.com very cheap. Of course you buy the Adler, do not be stubid. Trox

Thanks Bruce, Sorry for late replay. I have seen that Blanchard uses both rosewood and ebony on old knifes too, I guess they used what was available. Alternatively, Ebony might have been a more expensive option, who knows. I know that on newer knifes they use palisade. The slice action of the knife, that’s exactly what a knife does best. This also allows the knife to be moved further away from the roller too. This helps controlling a larger area in front of the knife, to keep the leather down on the tool. Yes I agree about the Dixon is a bit of an overkill in the construction. Somebody complained about the frame on the new Blanchard, that it was hollow and not all true solid like earlier models. I think that’s because PG (=Plough Gauge) knifes tend to brake off right over the slot. I have seen many Blanchard PG knifes with blades, broken like this. The knife handle carries the tool; a lighter construction will reduce the blade brakeage. Yes when I grew up too, there was mostly talk about Solingen, Sheffield and Mora (Sweden). Maybe some of the reason for that is the language barrier, French nationalism and perhaps it is also true when it comes to ordinary knifes. When it comes to saddlery, the French heritage is a model for all European saddlery. (I will not forget the British and German) Here is a link I found in a Danish saddlery firm F. & L. Dalhman`s (Copenhagen, A famous Danish saddlery who made a lot tack for the Danish royalties). You can clearly see how much the early French traditions meant to them. http://www.sadelmager-dahlman.dk/side32.html (It is on French, but the pictures tell the story well) Yes, French was and still is (I believe, I am no expert on this subject) fashion in the European horse world. Tools of the trade also tend to follow that industry. People who pursue the best styles will not be satisfied with bad quality. Generally, when it comes to French industry I always thought of them as inventive and best on designs, but a bit behind on the quality. After I discovered their leather tools, I am of an other opinion, let say I am pleasant surprised, and the quality is great. I do not have any big collection of round knifes I have fifteen. Mostly French, but also English and American. My favorite is a small old Blanchard, no of my others gets that sharp and keeps the edge that long. When it comes to using the Blanchard PG, I let the Roller spring take care of the roll’s downward pressure, I do not lock it in any position. Then Let the leather ride against the guide. My other hand holds the leather steady on the table in front of the PG (out of the way of the tool of course) I always strop all blades before I use them. I do not take the blade out of the tool, but strop it when it is in the tool. The PG has the latest design; however, the knife has a very dark ebony handle. I have bought it second hand, the knife may be older but it looks like it belongs in the tool. My guess is that it is. I do not aid the cutting with my other hand (other than in the start and finishing of the cut) however; I twist the PG a bit to press the leather against the guide. My PG knifes do not have that notch you are talking about, but I have seen it before. Both my Blanchard PG knifes has the bevel only on the left side. I guess that to be a matter of taste. Maybe also depended of the wide, thickness and density/ type of leather that is cut. I find that the blades with the left side bevel work good when I cut thin reins. The blade then acts like a boat rudder and steers the leather against the guide. Before I got this one, I used my Draw gauges for these narrow cuts, no I use the Blanchard PG for this job too. Searching for German tools on the internet, I found this interesting PG: http://www.schein.de/en/produkte/werkzeuge.html?marke=2 (scroll down the site and you will see it) I guess it is made in Solingen, I thought it was a Don Carlos ”Pik As”. However, I cannot recognize his maker stamp, it is not the same as the Don Carlos. I have sent a request about it, I will update you when I receive a answer. This looks both nice and well made. I bet it is expensive caused by small scale European production (just a guess). I do not like the hex screws on it, They should have used thumb screw on the adjustments. It looks like you have to use a hex tool to adjust the wide of the cut. No tool should need the use of another in order to work, that goes for older tools too. How is your custom made Knipschield PG knife working out. I am considering asking him to make one for me too. Trox

Thanks Bruce, I have both, but I am mostly using my latest Blanchard plough gauge. Speaking about plough gauges: The new style Blanchard plough is cutting much better than the Dixon does, it runs true heavy leather like it was butter. This because of its roller lifting construction, that allows a much more forward angled blade. The blade has a 65 degree forward angle and have an edge only on the left side of the blade. It is flat on the right side. This helps to compress the leather against the guide when cutting. I know this is of topic, however, I remember we had a discussion about the best kind of knife edge for a plough gauge. I believe this blade shape is as good as it can bee, the steel is good too. It is a old knife with ebony handle (and a old style of maker name). Even if this is their latest construction of plough gauge, the same roller lifting construction appears in their year 1900 cataloque (ref. R.A. Salaman, dict. of leather working tools, c. 1700-1950. Fig. 9:12) on a similar plough. I have been comparing this with my Dixon. Even if my Dixon needs a new blade, The P. gauge`s construction only allows a 85 degree forward angle blade in it. The Blanchard roller lifts forward away from the blade and allows a better blade construction. The blade scores are: Blanchard : 1 - 0 : Dixon You have, or had every style of plough`gauges, do you agree with this or not? It is off topic, I know. Trox

Thank you Dave, I will definitely try out your trick. Do the tape leave any glue on the leather after removing it? Thanks Trox

Thank you Bruce, I will contact them. Have you used your machines for strap cutting? with use of the guide that can be fitted to the right of the roller knife. Thanks Trox

Here is the one for the 441, Interesting attachment. If anybody has experience of using this, please let us know. I saved this picture a long time ago, I do not remeber if it was sold by Artisan or Ferdco. It should not be to difficult making this from a block of aluminium if it is not available any more. Thanks Trox

If thas not the issue, try a bigger needle. trox

Hi, I have had this issue before, not with my 441 but with a Adler 105. It was caused by a uneven woven bobbin. Something caught up he thread when I was filling the bobbin, and caused to much tension, making it uneven woven. Check your bobbin for faults. Check your thread rack, is the thread guides directly over your spool (if not it causes uneven top thread tension). Either the top or the bottom thread has uneven tension. Thats my guess. Thanks Trox

Some more angles, or the wrong angles. I am using a friends laptop with Linux OS, I cannot get the pictures to turn the right way. They are saved the right way on the laptop, however, when I upload them they lay down on their lazy side. Strange! I give up. Please turn your head or PC to look at them. If somebody (who is located not to far away from me, Oslo Norway) needs a machine like this I can part with one of them, for a reasonable price. Thanks Trox

Hi All, I have two old 5 in 1 combination splitting and cutting machines. The splitting and skiving function works on both of them, the cutting function however, don't work on any of them. They both need new roller knives and maybe the under roller to. I do not know the name of this part, but it is the wheel the roller knives cut on. Both machines look alike, but one is painted red and the maker name is not visible. Do anybody know where I can get new knifes and rollers for these machines? I have seen guides attached on these so they can be used as strap cutters, I never tried to use them for that. Do they work well for cutting straps? In advance thanks for any replays and help. Trox

Thank you Wiz, this is about the same I was trying to tell them with some other words. Let’s use our time for something else please. Our Swedish friend Edvin here has purchased the old saddlers Iron horse, he is a very skilled hand stitcher. I guess he wants to speed things up a bit time is money. However, the sewing machine cannot produce the same durable seam as two-thread hand sewing, sewn on leather. A tight correct laid lock stitch seam, closed with a hammer will do just fine. I give the customer a choice of Hand sewn with waxed thread or machine sewn. I tell them the advantages and price differences; very few want to pay for the extra hours of hand sewing. If they do, I do not mind doing some hands sewing, I find it relaxing. Trox

. Hi all leather tool fans. I bought this lot of punches from French EBay. I restored and painted them with hammerrite. The only thing I know about them is; they are French and pretty old. The two buttonholes punches look like buttonhole patterns on old 17th or 18th century French uniforms. Some of those uniforms might have leather collars and sleeves; I am no expert just guessing. I understand the use of most of the small punches. However the two big ones I am wondering about, a square Concho punch maybe? The other big one I cannot think of a use for, it drives me mad to think about it (I try not to) . I appreciate all help, In advanceThanks. Trox

Hi, Bees wax and thread lubricant has two different missions, I also have lube pots on my four heavy stitchers (Adler’s 5, 204, 105 and my TSC 441 machine) The only one of my machine who really gets a smoking hot needle is my 441 clone, this machine needs to cool down the needle or else the thread melts. This is done by reducing the thread friction by oil or silicone thread lube. Bees wax for hand sewing has an other mission, to help closing and protecting the stitches. On early leather sewing machines, they had heated wax apparatus just for this purpose. I have bought old sewing machines that do not turn because of old hardened grease, bees wax hardens fast. It will not only mess up your tension disc, it will mess up the shuttle and all related parts too. It has to be clean out after sewing, or warmed up by a flame to get liquid again. Linen thread is a very good thread for sewing machines, very soft. However, with beeswax it will stick to your shuttle causing stitch errors. I would not try that with my machines, I use only white sewing machine oil in them. Just my 2 cents Trox

Thanks guys, Kevin, with “Anglaise” I guess you meant the tool description, I be happy to. It is a Griffe à molette, a French pricking wheel. This one has four different wheels stored in the brass bulb. They have angled teeth numbered by the stitches per inch. Wheels are available from four to nineteen stitches per inch, from Vergez Blanchard. This one has a fence, an adjustable edge guide. These are normally made by Blanchard or some other French toolmaker like G. Lutz or G. Krempp, Paris (today only from Blanchard). However, this is from a rare German maker Melzer & Feller. I recently bought this from EBay and I did some goggling on the maker. The only other things I found from this maker; was parade daggers for German WW2 SS and SA soldiers. Nevertheless, I have a small (all metal and rosewood shafts) saddlers hammer, I think is from this maker. I cannot read the entire letter because of its wear, so I cannot be sure. I think this is a bit nicer made than the new ones from Blanchard, then again all older tools is. Trox

Hi Edvin Not two times, it has to go one and a half time around second tension disc. I have seen pictures off machines with wax apparatus, heated with gas to melt the wax. If you use waxed thread, your machines will be full of wax that hardens and jams up your machine. Then you have to warm it up with the gas heater every morning to get it to sew. I have no experience with use of waxed thread, and I would not use it in any of my machines. There are other kinds of machine they used wax in, I never seen it in a lockstitch machine. There are some pinned topics in this forum about thread and needle sizes, read them, they will answer your questions. Here are some 45K machines Trox http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-singers/45k.htm

Hi Jim, although I think you meant to quote Edwin and not me. I agree with you Jim, this are all issues practice and more practice will solve. Thanks Trox

Thank you Ralph, I know you have a nice collection; I do have more of them too. I hope you have a long happy life, and enjoy of your tools for years to come. Your friend Tor

The style and looks of a leather tool might not be as important as the functions of it. However, the old French leather tools have it both. It feels real good just holding them and feeling good inspires me to do the job well too. To me it is a love affair. Tool crazy

Thank you Steve and Tom in the house of the Cobra, mod recieved and motor works very well. Happy sewing. Trox

Stone wheel for crome tan leather, and thin upholstry type of leather. Milled steel wheel for veg tan and thick leather. Trox And Thank you Cobra Tom for the motor mod, received it two day ago and it now works great. Trox