Spinner
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Everything posted by Spinner
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Three Mutts Customs pics
Images added to a gallery album owned by Spinner in Our Leatherwork Galleries
finished and in progress pics of pieces I'm working on/have finished. -Chris -
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Talk to me HCM, I may have work for you. I have a number of hides on hand and more coming that need to be split but no interest in buying a splitter (bell skiver is in the works though). Drop me a line at chris@threemuttscustoms.com if you have room for some more splitting business. Looking to know price, possible widths, etc. Thanks, Chris
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Dyed from the tannery works but not as well. The surface tends to be slightly burnished and occassionally you'll find that they include a little bit of sealer that resists adhesion of paints and adding additional oils. I start with raw veg tan, dye & oil the piece completely then paint on top of that. Satin Varnish goes over the acrylics to lock them in and then Resolene 50/50 over the whole piece. By painting before any sealing, there is more surface tooth for the paints to adhere to. Paint Brands to check out: Golden Fluid Acrylics Games Workshop Citadel Acrylics Reaper Master Paints The last two are formulated for durability and adhesion to plastics and textiles for heavy traffic. They were designed to paint the little plastic figures and sets that gamers use when playing table top war games like Warhammer 40k. When I first looked at them I thought, if these paints survive the average gamer carrying them around, moving them and knocking them over on a table set, eating snacks as stuff while playing, they should work for leather. They all work great, last a long time and can be brushed on or thinned for airbrushing easily.
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You'll get a better edge using something with natural enzymes and a mid range speed. Not sure what it is rpmwise, will have to check, but setting 5-6 on a Dremel 3000/4000 is the sweet spot and around 1100 on most drill presses. You want a slightly lower speed on the drill press due to the larger diameter as the surface speed increases with the diameter on spinning objects. Saliva is best but spitting on client projects is usually frowned upon, even for seriously smooth edges, Glycerine soap works well but I have found that Wyo-Slick from Sheridan Leather Outfitters is awesome stuff and a small bottle lasts forever. Just dip your finger in, rub a small amount on the edges and let it sit for a few seconds then burnish. I usually apply it to the whole piece all at once, by the time I get around, the first area is ready to run the burnisher over. http://www.sheridanleather.com/Quik_Slik_p/quik-slik.htm
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Excellent!
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Thanks Bill
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Lined Carbine Scabbard
Spinner replied to Brushpopper's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Very clean, I like that the floral is more of an art deco style than traditional Sheridan. -
Thanks Jon, that is one of my favorites as well.
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Thanks everyone, . WyomingSlick - feel free, if I wanted to keep things secret I'd not post them on the internet! It is a bit more difficult to reproduce than you might think though, even a somewhat accomplished gent that I tutored a bit has trouble getting it just right after seeing it done in person. Here's a hint, do your border strikes first to set the spacing, then do a nearly blind random run through the middle while turning the tool a quarter turn in between each strike. Next do a slightly more planned run over the same area and finally fill in to flavor. I only work 6" sections at a time which also lends to more randomw patterning as each block has a fresh set of random runs to it. Hope that helps. Cheers, Chris
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Thanks folks. Since depth was mentioned by Alvetjarn, just wanted to mention that for all of these pieces Hermann Oak 6oz. was used.
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Hell, I think it looks better after the repair!
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Thanks benlilly, part of the problem was my work was catching LW.net as a security risk website so they locked it out. Not sure what changed but I have access now and can visit on lunch breaks and such.
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Looking good, lacing is clean and color scheme works nicely.
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Last bunch...
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eh, what the hell....here are a few more.
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A buddy and I were talking the other day and he mentioned I should swing by and post some more recent and relevant pics as folks look for me here every so often. I don't have much time for forums or Facebook as I used to so I typically do a quick FB post from my phone and keep working. Anyway, without any more hoopla, here are some recent pieces, some WIP some completed... Cheers, Chris http://www.threemuttscustoms.com I have plenty more if folks are interested. Feel free to ask any questions, make comments, etc.
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Looks good Twisted!
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side note for the budget conscientious folks, a Tandy round knife will work. They come with a crappy edge and need to be sharpened correctly and then maintained but they will work. I took mine to a shop near me that has an amazing Japanese guy (swear he is at least 100 years old) that just sits in a closet sized room in back sharpening knives. Took him the Tandy set and a few days later had razor sharp blades. I simply strop them before each use and they work well, can even skive 3/4 chrome tan to about 1oz with the round knife when I need to. The drawback is they don't stay sharp for more than one sitting whereas the LW and ART knives hold an edge much longer and have a few more handy innovations.
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I have a Mini Lui arriving in the next week or so and a ART Knife & Tool Hybrid arriving next month. I have tried the LW rounds knives before and own a Tandy round knife but even with good sized hands (Large glove size) the way I hold the knife the smaller ones work better for me. I was able to try both knives at the Denver IFoLG show and due to handle shapes, etc. they do fit differently in the hand but both feel very nice. I ordered the Hybrid from Josh because I do quite a bit if skiving and being able to cut and skive without switching tools will be very handy. The quality on both is top notch and both offer customizations if there is something different you want out of your knife.
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Feibings White ?'s
Spinner replied to RandyJ's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
The fieblings white is a strange hybrid from another planet. Doesn't thin well with anything, clean up is even worse especially if used mistakenly through an airbrush (damhikt). As mentioned above it is a type of paint, not a dye. I would actually liken it to an exterior wood stain, like the new Tandy Pro Leather Colors, only difference is the fiebings won't penetrate at all and if layered on too thick or if applied in a single coat it will crack and peel pretty badly. Long story short, I have a bottle of it, have tried various ways to use it and I can honestly say I hate the stuff. The fiebings gray is the same stuff by the way. -
Here's my Bearman and Beary maul group shot for those interested... (L to R): 28 oz with Amboyna Burl handle by Beary, 21 oz with Silky Oak handle, 16 oz with Cocobolo handle and 10 oz with Silky Oak handle. The last three were made by Ed.
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I checked an invoice that was next to my desk and the total with shipping was $397.22 for 2 hides totaling 46 sq. ft. of extra clean 5/6 A grade. I live 2 hours away from Goliger so figure the shipping was about $36 and that makes the price per square foot about $7.87 or thereabouts. They are very nice, a light russet color and generally the main body has a good hand, tools very well and wet forms & dyes just as nicely. I have tried all of Tandy's offerings, Springfield, W&C, ALD, Weaver and SLO making the same request each time of all of them. Goliger is the only one that consistently delivers on quality. SLO would be next. The surface temper of A grade HO is so much smoother and holds tooling much better than anything the others stock including W&C in my opinion. I spent over $14k on tooling leather hides last year to give you an idea of how much of a sampling I've seen from Goliger's HO stocking. Out of all those hides, only 1 was difficult to work with and all the rest provided at least 75% yield (including belly, neck and butt ends) overall. Hope that helps! Chris
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That cocobolo 16oz one on the far right sure is pretty Ed...but I might be biased because it's mine! Handles nicely and has the same great feel the others by you and Beary do. I should post a pic of the set now that it's complete...will try and snap one tonight.
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I think you missed the comma tina...HO hides are not imported. Another good source for HO A & B grade is Goliger Leather in Ventura, CA if it's close enough. I buy all of my HO through them as I like to buy only 2-3 hides at a time so I can take advantage of Carlos picking my leathers for me out of the new batches. He does a great job if you let him know exactly what you are looking for and I never get a piece with less than 75-80% yield.
