katsass

From the grump: Here's how I do mine. This happens to be a 2" wide, tapered belt of 12/13oz saddle skirting, hand stitched and lined with 2/3oz veg tanned cow hide..Just a very plain gunbelt. Mike

From the old grump: CT, you did good on this one, fine work indeed -- except for one thing that I'm wondering about. Unless your customer switches hands when reloading (being left handed, I don't switch hands with the gun when reloading, and I don't see too many right-handers doing it ether) I think that he'll have a difficult time reaching those cartridges in the loops for his reload. For my right handed customers, I start the loops about on the left hip bone and continue to about the center of the back -- vicey-versey for left-handers. Just something I noticed and wondered about. Mike

Murphy's isn't a finish, possibly a conditioner, but you'll most likely smear the dye when applying it. You need to seal the dye in the leather before doing anything else. Mike

Jason, from the grump, you might try a stirrup strip from Springfield for belts. They are 12/13oz and plenty long for belts - until you need more that 72 or so inches to work with. As to bellies,they are (IMO) suitable for making mock-ups, but not much more. Too prone to stretch and sag. Mike.

From the grump - again. OK, you've changed things from what I initially understood. This little rig may work. I think a LOT of practice would be the name of the game. I'm a very firm believer in the 'you do as you play' theory, and having trained and worked with vertical, strong side rigs, both open and concealed, for a long damned time, I feel that this would take some getting used to. Not to say it's a bad way to go, just that the feel as you go for it, when the doo-doo hits the proverbial fan and muscle memory takes over, might cause a bit of a problem. The cure, of course, is, again, a lot of practice. Mike

Jason -- from the grump: 12/13oz is plenty heavy for gunbelts - and with a 2/3oz lining, equivalent to a little more than two layers of 5/6oz. I usually don't line the buckle end nor the bitter end of a belt - for ease of buckling. I also primarily (not always) make tapered belts, rather than the 'ranger' style - again, for ease of use and comfort. For bullet loops I don't go past the center of the back of the belt with loops - they just aren't that easy to get to back there. I try not to exceed 18 loops, 12is 'mo better', unless the customer wants them - there is a lot of weight to a pot-load of .44 or .45 cartridges - even .357's. Shoulder leather seems best for holsters, but backs will do well also. Saddle skirting is generally cut from the back I believe, and I use that for gunbelts - even 'garrison' or trousers gunbelts. Those holster were for a pair of Uberti shooters in .45 Colt, and the New Vaquero is a fine shooter. A friend has one - specially modified for VERY heavy, custom .45 Colt loads. Shoots great. Here are a couple of pics of a copy of a rig (seen in the book 'Packing Iron'). The original was for a Colt SAA - had to modify a bit to fit the 8 1/2" Ruger Super Redhawk. The belt is 3" wide, lined 12/13oz skirting leather. Mike .

From the old grump: Well, years ago I used some water based dye -- and vowed never to use it again. BUT since you're stuck with it, as said, first buff the snot out of it. Next, if applying anything that has a tendency to moisten the leather - do it with some sort of sprayer. It doesn't have to be a full compressor set up - an old Windex pump sprayer will work well, if the stuff is thin enough. BUT, if you apply it by rag, sponge, chunk of wool shearling, foam paintbrush, or your grubby mitts, you start moving the dye around and it does create strange swirls of color -- usually not appreciated. I have used (for years) a 50/50 mix of Mop & Glow (the floor stuff) and water, sprayed on with an airbrush. It's actually an acrylic finish, similar to the old Tandy 'Neat Sheen' (with just a touch of some other stuff that doesn't do a damned thing to the leather).The trick is to stay away from your project and just 'mist' on a fine layer - don't allow it to puddle. It initially doesn't look like it does a damned thing, especially in warm weather, as it dries almost immediately. Two shots is plenty (with a few minutes between applications). With this method you don't disturb the dye (re-activated by the moisture), and it dries quickly. I finish with a thin coat of Kiwi Neutral shoe wax, rubbed in by hand (no rag or applicator, just a couple of grubby fingers) then. buff to a low sheen. As in many things, moderation is the key, in other words, more ain't better. Here's a pic of matching (sort of) holsters I did - one finished as I say, and the second awaiting the application of Mop & Glow. It's simple, cheap, and works for me. Mike

From the old grump: Gotta agree with DBP. As one who has also carried a handgun for (now) over 40 years, both on duty and off, you have to give up some speed and/or availability with a pocket, IWB, or (actually) any concealed handgun rig -- when compared to open carry.. But to my way of seeing things, you're giving up WAAAAY too much with this rig. To me, it's a nice little pouch to put your shooter in and stuff in a drawer. JMHO. Mike

From the old grump; For lining leather on a holster I use 2/3oz veg tanned cowhide, I use it on holsters at times, and more frequently on knife sheaths made for 'collector knives. I also use it to line all of my gunbelts, those, made from 12/13oz saddle skirting. Primarily, however, I use two layers of 4/5oz shoulder leather to make my holsters, I bond the two pieces together on their flesh sides, and use the result just as one would with a single thickness of leather of equivalent weight. This method does require a great deal more stitching, but when molded and finished produces a pretty solid holster. Here's a picture of a pair of matching (as close as I can get) hand stitched holsters made for replica Colt Single Action Army wheelguns (the one on the right has no finish on it yet). The one on the left is a strong side draw, and on the right is a cross-draw. Mike P.S. I generally use Springfield's "#1 Import Double Shoulders" for holsters. If you are going to carve and/or tool your work, the other mentiond leathers would work better, I just don't do that stuff anymore, and I find that for my kind of work, there is little difference between the import, W&C or Herman Oak leathers - other than price. JMO.

Jeff, if the guy said it was a shoulder, I suspect that it was. But unless you specified that you wanted shoulder leather, they have a tendency to pawn off bellies when they can. As to boning -- I don't. My primary method of construction precludes boning on a holster. I generally use two pieces of 4/5oz shoulder, glued up on their flesh sides to produce my stuff. This produces a holster of basically the same thickness as what normally is used - 9/10oz - but it is much less flexible when wet, and much firmer when dried. It also gives me a lined holster I hand mold my stuff pretty tightly and dry in the desert sun, and as said, this produces a much more rigid holster, that retains it's shape better than does a single thickness of leather of equivalent weight - IMO. It does take a great deal more stitching, but that's just the way I do things. Mike

From the grump: For sure, rickybobby and TwinOaks have said it all - almost. Now -- I don't know beans about a sewing machine, don't profess to, never have used one, nor have I actually wanted to. I hand stitch everything. My suggestion is to learn to hand saddle stitch -- well. It will take practice, patience, and concentration, and IMO is becoming less and less seen -- at least seen done well. Along with that, learn what YOU can do with a chunk of dead cow skin - and what CAN be done with it, then perfect your abilities and technique - then go to a machine to speed up production -- IF you feel the need. One thing I'll mention, and as once said by one with more smarts than I have, 'leather working is not for those looking for instant gratification'. I say it a bit differently --- "slow down and take your damned time!" Mike P.S. My grandson heard a LOT of the 'slow down' comment from me (among other comments). He's the one that named me 'a grumpy old man'. He wanted to make a holster for his dad as a gift - spent about three weeks with me working on it - mostly on learning (and practicing) to stitch. Here's a pic of that holster - the absolute first piece of leather work he ever put his hands to, and every bit done by him. He learned to stitch pretty well, but he could profit for a bit more practice, but he was proud of his work, and so was I. Learning to stitch will serve you well - IMO.

From the old grump: I hand stitch. IMO hand stitching is (when done properly) better looking, stronger, and longer lasting than what a machine does. When doing custom work, the customer deserves, and is paying for, the best that you can produce, and IMO that is a product that is hand stitched. Mike

From the old grump: Well, seems that it's all been said - at least mostly. Remember that the 'ears' (that are reminiscent of our current prez's) are out there to provide a place for belt loops, that's all. ( I personally like the descriptive term "ears" - it's mo-better than "wings") They don't need to be humongous.. As to leather, again, do yourself a favor and purchase your stuff from a REAL leather supply outfit - there are a number of them listed here on the forum. As do many however, and FWIW, I use Springfield Leather. Tandy was once a pretty good outfit --- 40 or 50 years ago -- taint so now. Buy shoulder leather or you'll be wondering what the hell happened to your project after a little bit of time down the road. In my experience, Tandy seems to try to sell a bunch of belly leather, which will end up sagging out of shape like some old lady's --- --- uh -- stockings, yes, that's what I was thinking of --- stockings. As you said yourself, you need to tighten up your stitch lines, and I think you need to work on your stitching - when done properly, hand stitching (notice I didn't say "sewing") should look better than a machine's ---- sewing. Stitching and sewing are two different critters - IMO. (Some say I'm just a little anal about stitching) Overall it doesn't look too bad, and for a first go at it, it's a pot-load better than many. Keep it up. Mike

brathair, That one is done with Fiebing's Dark Brown, cut 50/50 with denatured alcohol. I used multiple coats for uniform color and good absorption. The ostrich leg is 'cognac' color, and not quite as yellow as it appears in the pic. I think the afternoon sun caused the color shift. Mike

From the old grump; I basically like contrast -- colors, and/or textures. I also like inlay work. With those in mind, here's a few things I've come up with. Mike

From the grump: Simple answer -- NO. My customers come to me for custom work, and pay for custom work. Even if I had five customers wanting a holster for a Colt 1911 Govt. model, all at the same time, I'll draw a separate pattern for each -- and discard the pattern after the single use. Some may be similar, however none will be an identical holster. There's something to be said for an example or two of your work, but to sell wholesale isn't in the cards when doing custom, hand-made items. JMHO Mike

From the old grump, and you're not that old cause I've got more'n 20 years on you.: Welcome, and I guess it's mostly been said already, but one other thing, I think Sylvia said it a while ago but I'll paraphrase it, 'leather working is not for those seeking instant gratification' --- I generally tell someone starting out in a more direct manner -- "take your damned time!". You just can't hurry things along when working with sharp and/or pointy things, along with wet leather, dyes, oils, and finishes, , but when you have put together something of use from a chunk of dead cow skin, it just kind of stays with you. Enjoy! Mike

Well TO, it was a rough way to go, but had to stop with either one because the pony was mean and chewed the leather - the horse just slobbered too much and stained my work. Mike

Yes, but that's just where in start - sometimes, to get a lighter shade, I'll even go as far as 1 part dye to 10 parts denatured alcohol. I do a bunch of dabbing on scrap to test.. Mike

Well, mineral spirits is oily, and IMO does some strange stuff to leather. I only use sponges to dampen my edges for burnishing - and I use my hands almost as much With the little foam brushes, the trick is to work fast and keep the brush loaded with dye. Don't apply dye with a half dry brush. Mike P.S. Should go without saying, allow to dry - at least 24 hours, then buff the snot out of it and apply oil.

FWIW from the old grump: I don't use a stitching pony or horse - at all. Not to say I don't have one (or more) I just got used to stitching sitting around in a comfortable location, damned near anywhere I want. I stitch my holsters when flat, even wet 'em down and smoosh 'em flat prior to stitching - then sog 'em down again when done, and go to molding. Mike

From the grump: IF applying dye manually (dauber, rag, sheep's wool, etc) The best I have been able to get was with those cheap foam brushes. Dilute the dye (Fiebings dark brown is DARK!) at least 25% dye to 75% denatured alcohol. Lay the dye on in one direction, keeping the brush wet with dye, follow with a second coat at 90 degrees to that and (usually) a third coat at 45 degrees to that. That (almost always) results in an even finish, depending on how the leather wants to accept the stuff.. Mike

From thev grump; just used to seeing the strap, but this works for me too. Mike

From the grump: Just as Luke says, I do it frequently, but I use Weldwood Contact cement. Mike