katsass

From the old grump: Dwight has it down to a 'T', but just a note, use the belly leather to practice with -- ONLY. That stuff is not good for holsters. . My holsters are a little different than most, being made from a double layer of leather in their construction. I do assemble and stitch prior to molding, and because of that it takes a bit more work, but other than that, that's just how it's done, and said better than I could. Mike.

From the grumjp: One thing that finally came to light after re-reading your post is that you wish to only wet mold a portion of your project. Even if the molding is to be done in only one portion, all of the attached pieces of leather generally need to be evenly moistened, or the possibility of a waterstain can appear. Mike

L:ooks a whole bunch better, keep it up. Mike

I dampen the stitches very slightly (the moisture eases into the leather a bit) and just apply slight pressure to give a final smooth, even appearance to the stitching. Mike

Well Andrew Peter, First off I'd personally get rid of that nasty four pronged stitching chisel -- they be nasty things in my opinion. A true stitching awl can be tricky to work with initially, however practice , practice and more practice works out in the end. There are many that use a drill press (NOT turned on) with an awl blade in it to punch their holes in a perfectly straight, and vertical line. There others that use a Dremel (small rotary) type tool to drill little bitty (3/64") holes for stitching. NOTE: do not try to use a 3/64" drill bit in a drill press -- the bit will walk all over hell because the press does not spin at high enough speed to stabilize it. I have used the following method to teach the use of the awl: Punch a row of holes, say 10 or 12 holes, then use the awl to open each hole slightly, in line and level --- as you progress, you will soon slip and stick the awl into a dimple made by the overstitch (when initially marking stitch length) that has not been drilled. Fairly soon, drilling will become unnecessary, you'll be able to punnch the awl right on through without having a pre-drilled hole as a guide. Use of a stitching pony helps along these lines also. I don't use one, just punch my holes and wait 'till the evening a stitch while watching the tube. Remember, stitching takes time. It isn't as fast as granny sewing up a seam in a pair of pants. Each stitch must be done in EXACTLY the same way. ie: All stitches start on the same side of the piece. The second needle must remain either on top of or below the first thread. An easy way to accomplish this is to; stuff the first needle through, pull the thread snug and back towards yourself. Insert the second needle and pull the thread up until there is a small loop remaining in it. At this time notice where the first thread is --- either inside that loop ... or outside of the loop. If inside, the second thread will lay on top of the first -- and vicy-vercy. I personally keep it outside of the loop, but for smooth and even stitches, each and every stitch must be done the same way or you will find the stitches 'wobbling' friom side to side. OK enough of playing the grumpy teacher. Get the book, work with it and enjoy yourself and thanks for the compliment. Mike

Tac; FWIW from the old grump; listen to what Ray (Lobo Gunleather) has to say. I've carried a handgun for about as long as Ray has, as a LEO and as a private guy with a CCW permit. EVERY holster I ever carried on duty had rub-off for a month or so after issue. When I went to plain clothes, I went to an Aker paddle holster --in 'natural' finish to preclude this. (We were required to carry Dept. Issue equipment, or I'd have used one of my own) Black is the worst at rub-off, just by the nature of black dyes, but the darker the color, the more rub-off appears, even in my own pieces. I'm just a dinky little shop doing custom only work, and don't get into anywhere near the quantities that Ray does, but have been at it almost as long as he. In my experience, even the best(?) big manufacturers have the problem with dye rub-off. JMHO Mike

FWIW from the old grump: I've been making a holsters now and then for the past 50 years or so. I do make most of mine from a double layer of 4/5oz veg-tanned cowhide shoulder leather. For stitching I use either 5 or 7 cord waxed linen threads almost exclusively. It's available from most suppliers, but I get mine from Springfield Leather. I have used Nyltex, also available from most suppliers, if you care to use a synthetic thread, I don't. I have absolutely no idea what the hell you are talking about in your description of threads you have used, or are thinking about using. I expect that you mean that you stitch through 4 layers of 4/5oz leather at the welt -- I don't see any reason to stitch at the fold. I use an old Osborn stitching awl (chisel?), sharpened for about 1/4" or so and stropped often. It's about 1/8" wide -- I don't do metric dimension. It eases through four layers of leather easily. For anyone starting out making holsters, I strongly suggest that one obtains the book "How To Make Holsters" by Al Stohlman. At around $12 or so, it covers about everything needed for basic holster making, from pattern drawing to stitching and finishing. It looks a bit dated, but the information is still relevant today, and most holster makers I know have their own, well used copy, I bought mine in about 1960. I hand stitch everything I do. I use a #6 overstitch to mark stitch spacing, and to finish my stitching; a good stitching awl; #1 harness needles; and waxed linen thread. A pic of one of my holsters, showing a bit of stitching. Mike

TO ALL: Thanks for the very kind comments. I DO appreciate them. Actually I'm not always that grumpy. I even did the 'happy dance' a couple of weeks ago when my son and DIL moved out to their new home. they had purchased it almost two and a half years ago. They asked to stick around here for a couple of months to 'tidy' their place up -- paint, clear the yard, clean and make some minor repairs. As they got into it, they asked if that time period could be extended a little --- they had decided to remodel while they didn't need to actually be IN the house. That turned into two and a half years of continual demolition, construction, and even some heavy equipment being used, all done by just the two of them -- and a damned little help from me, even though I offered. Well they even took their little Pug mutt with them when they left. She had been with me (to keep her out of trouble) while they worked on the place, for these last to and a half years -- I kind of miss the little mutt. BUT Ma and I get to baby sit her when they take off for places unknown for a day or two. I will say that they did one hell of a job on the house. The thing that gets me bent out of shape is for someone to say that they CAN'T do something. I found out about two years ago that i cannot lift a railroad tie, put it on my shoulder, and walk off with it anymore. BUT, I CAN figure out a way to get the damned thing to where I want to put it when I decide that I need one in the garden area. And as Dwight says, the prairie dogs (desert ground squirrels out here) don't deliver my mail. Thanks again. Mike

Yes, Ferg has a few years on me. Funny thing is that we both grew up on farms, mine being an alfalfa ranch..After graduation I left home -- and a stepfather -- and worked with a couple of crews freelance loading hay from fields -- at a nickle a bale, split three ways. Tried the local JC but by then was working on a day crew and a nite crew --- and trying to party my life away in the off time. i finally enlisted in the Navy as did Ferg, we attended the same training command and both ended up in ASW work --- at different times. I refused to admit to being 70 because, in my experience, many folks start to talk...slowely..and ... more .... distinctly, .. and...more...loudly... at that age, youngsters seem to feel that one becomes somewhat deficient in abilities and faculties. Therefore, I'm 69 --- been that for some time now. Mike P.S. Being grumpy just takes an effort.

Thanks to all for the kind comments all. Dwight --- Here is a couple of pics of the flip side, one has a couple of bugs attached.. Funny thing is, the sun picked up on the stitching -- a lot. Makes it look white, but it's dark brown waxed linen. Mike

From the grump, thanks for the comment. I suspect that you are a bit east of me,I'm on the very western edge of the Mojave desert. Temps wil hit the century mark here about tomorrow. Mike

Good morning Dwight, Good looking holster, and ideal for carrying a 1911 style shooter. Folks just don't seem to understand that when I say that my type of construction will produce a much firmer holster --- I mean it. You would have difficulty in obtaining the detail of a boned rig, but properly molded, the retention is there, and stays there. Mike P.S. As soon as photobucket decides to come back up for me, I'll provide a backside pic of my last holster.

Haven't posted a holster for a while, so, here is a real plain, hand stitched, simple pouch for a Ruger Redhawk. Knocked it out in a couple of days --- with the temps in the 90s and humidity at about 9% here in the desert, things dry quickly. Mike

From the grump: All of the hammer tie-downs I have seen and used over the years can be released by a flick of the thumb while gripping the shooter.. I'm just not too sure of this rig, but if it works for you -- OK. I'm not too fond about having to reach the front and unsnap the thing first, then be sure it gets off the hammer. Maybe with practice. I will say that it looks neat though. Mike

Well Sylvia, I was about 17 at the time, and my teacher was a WWI cavalry soldier. He swore that he could tell the quality of the leather from the taste. It finally dawned on me that human saliva was not a magic substance and started to use a damp sponge. Didn't care much for the taste either. Mike

From the grump: With the size you describe, it looks like it might be cowhide embossed to replicate 'gator. Mike

From the old grump: My suggestion to all folks wanting to make a holster or two is to get Al Stohlman's book "How To Make Holsters". At around $12 it will teach you how to make a pattern, stitch properly and a bunch of other stuff that will lead you in the right direction. Mike

FWIW from the grump: I don't like or use gum trag. To me it's nasty stuff, on a par with Edge Coat.. I learned a loooong time ago to burnish my edges with just a smidge of water (actually the old man that taught me always licked his edges and then went to burnishing) I use a slightly damp sponge now. Burnish, dry, sand with very fine sandpaper if necessary. Dye, (if wanted) and re-burnish with a touch of moisture and glycerin soap, dry and apply a finish. Mike

From the grump: I kinda wonder about your stitching holes also --- they're bretty big. Mike

From the old Grump; Adapt, persevere and overcome --- Damned good looking rig. Mike

Jake, call Springfield Leather, they just may not be in the catalog. If they don't, call ST Leather @ 1-800-381-5965 or Google them for their website. They have them. Mike

Went to one in Las Vegas a few years ago as a guest of a manufacturer of items for Trap shooters. Neat thing to see. Mike

From the grump --- VERY good point. Mike

FWIW, I just add a flat fee for the 'incidentals' based on average use, and don't actually figure in an exact amount of dye, thread, rivets, glycerin soap, finish and stuff like that. Mike

Frankly, that's something I don't understand when using Fiebing's dyes. They are all alcohol (or spirit) dyes -- even the Pro Oil dyes (which I use a lot of). To add water prior to dyeing just doesn't make sense to me. I do (once in a while) apply oil and immediately shoot my stuff with the dye to get a smoother transition when doing something along these lines -- sort of a 'sunburst' effect. I've heard of the water thing, but since water and Fiebing's dyes don't mix well, I've never tried it. I certainly don't think that water would assist in penetration of the dye. Mike P.S. Drying time on solvent based dyes takes longer than most folks realize. I live in the desert area of California, and I let my stuff sit a full 24 hours -- in temperatures that have been in the100 degree (F) range, and a humidity of 5 to 10%. In a more moist and cooler climate it may take longer for stuff to dry, especially for leather to dry out as much as possible.