katsass

Robert: Thanks for the comments. That front piece CAN be integral and actually serve as anchor for the belt loop. I didn't do it that way because it's a bit more economical to cut a single,more narrow strip to make the body of the sheath than to widen it out and cut the straps in, or cut a big bulge in a nice shoulder of leather. It may be false economics, but I end up with a straight edge off the shoulder piece, rather than odd shape with a chunk out of it. I also feel this way the belt loop is more secure with the same appearance on the front. I bring the lining over on the front on a lot of my sheaths, and almost always on the back, but, even though almost all of my holsters are lined, I don't do it much on them. Mike

FWIW from the old grump: I do a little bit of inlay work -- no filigree stuff though. From my point of view it partially depends on what you intend to make, as far a choice of leather goes. Since I make holsters and some knife sheaths, I'll go from that point of view. I make most all of my holsters and sheaths from two layers of 4/5 oz leather, bonded together on their flesh sides. In general --- that's just how an inlay is done. Two layers of leather with a piece of (usually) exotic leather sandwiched between. 4/5oz works very well. Of course there is a 'window' cut in the surface piece so that the exotic can show through. I use Weldwood contact cement for all of my work --- not their 'gel' formula, but the one that is solvent based. It brushes on like you describe. It's available at most of the big home improvement stores, Home Depot, Lowes, OSH, etc. Cut out the pattern for the item you are going to make, That will be two pieces --- one a mirror image of the other. Cut the 'window' area out in the piece that will be the outside or front of your project.. If you are going to dye the thing --- do it now. I don't suggest that you use any of the Tandy eco-flo stuff. Use a good solvent based dye such as Fiebing's or Angelus. Burnish the inside edges of the window and cut a stitching groove 3/8" or less from the edge of it. Cut your inlay piece about 1/2" larger (all around) than the window and glue it in place. Stitch that inlay down to the shell. I use #1 sized needles and five cord waxed linen thread. Take the mirror image of the front piece and slather the contact cement all over the flesh side of it and the flesh side of the front piece -- including the back of the inlay. when just slightly tacky, carefully align them and stick 'em together. I then usually stack something heavy on the piece and let it sit for an hour of so -- just to ensure good adhesion. From there on it's normal assembly EXCEPT for the fact that you need to stitch around ALL edges. I'd sugest that to start with you use snake (without scales) frog, lizard, or an embossed skin of around 2/3oz. in thickness. Things like 'gator, stingray, and to an extent ostrich shin (leg) need to be worked a bit to stitch in place. Work on those after you work out using something cheaper and easier to work with. A few pics of some of my inlaid items. Hope this helps. Mike P.S. The last pic is of a three-dimentional snake without stitching -- that's a bit different and a little more dificult to do.

Well, guy, my fingers don't get numb. I was taught to stitch a looong time ago by a WWI cavalry soldier.( that might give you an idea of how old I am) One thing he told me was that IF you can pull the needle through the leather with your fingers only --- your stitching holes are too damned big. I use a small pair of smooth jawed pliers. Most of my stitching is done in the evening while watching the tube. There is, IMO, a place for stitching machines, BUT (again IMO) not in truly hand made custom leather work such as I do, and you have just completed.. Mike

Thanks a bunch. This was the first time I used 'gator --- just had a small piece and had nothing to do with it until a custom knife maker contacted me and asked for something 'different' for two of his blades. With he 'gator I was a bit cautious, with but the ostrich (being on of my favorite 'exotics') i was less so. He was pretty happy with the results. Mike

FWIW from the old grump: You done good -- real good. I hand stitch all of my work and appreciate the effort taken to do these great looking rigs. Mike

Eaglestroker: No sooner done than said --- or something like that. Here it is. Mike

FWIW from the old grump: Well --- burnout --- been there. I spent 35 years as a LEO. At times I couldn't get home for a couple of days at a time. Then, there were times that I spent a few days in the hospital, which didn't do Ma Kat any damned good at all. Worked a lot of 12 hr shifts and couldn't come down before the next shift started. Suffered from ulcers multiple times over ten or so years. That all turns one into a grumpy old man real quick, and makes life hell for others around you. I finally learned that lesson. I slowed down and took Ma on some surprise three or four day vacations from time to time, I learned not to sweat the things I have no control over. Now I'm retired and still refuse to allow things to get that much under my skin., I will not (generally) take any project on with an absolute deadline. I give plenty of lead time, and the customer is tickled when his stuff comes in early, if it does. If I feel that things are stacking up on me, I take a day or two and do a bit of trap shooting, go fishing, or work around the old homestead. Ma Kat is doing better now, and one morning soon I'll wake her up, load her into the car and take her to a favorite little coastal village we like, just for some fresh seafood, salt air and a walk on the piers to look at the vessels.. We'll spend spend a few days there. I do have an advantage over most of you other folks though ---- nobody expects an old fart like me to do ANYTHING in a hurry. Mike

Ferg, waaaaay back before I went into law enforcement, i was an animal control officer. This time of year, around the homes along our foot deep 'River', we'd have an influx of the little desert spotted skunks. Cute little beggars, and many folks would leave dry cat food out for them . The local Jr. College healed one up that I brought in to them that had been injured, and the little guy wandered the biology dept. as it's new home for quite a while. Apparently, simple surgery removes the 'stinkum' glands, as they can spray, but not like the big guys. The little guys will stamp their front feet, then bounce up on them and pooof --- in the right light you can see a small greenish cloud out in front of them --- no solid stream. It generally takes quite a bit for then to spooked enough to let go. Mike

From the old grump; Nyltex(sp?) is a pretty good alternative. I've used it, but still return to waxed linen for my work. Just an observation, it's possible that your stitching gouge isn't quite deep enough and/or you aren't running an overstitch after the stitching is completed if you have fraying problems. With a good deep gouge, properly prepared thread, stitched tight, then the overstitch and the final finish, you shouldn't have the problem. JMHO Mike

FWIW from the old grumpy guy: The first thing needed is to remove the excess surface residuals from the dye. Buff the snot out of it --- then, buff some more. I used a soft buffing wheel on a 3/8" variable speed drill for this --- before switching to vinegaroon to turn leather black. When you are quite sure you have it buffed out, take a fairly damp (old -- discard-able)washcloth and wipe it down --- more will come off. --- more than you expect. Buff a little more. Now then, wipe it down well with pure neatsfoot oil and allow to set in for 24 hours or so. I then use(d) a 50/50 mix of Mop&Glo and water (yes, the floor stuff) Two coats, sprayed on with an airbrush. No airbrush? --- use the pump sprayer from a Windex bottle. Allow 15 - 20 minutes between coats and a couple of hours for total drying. Remember that this is to seal it with --- not to put on a super, high-gloss finish. Rub in -- by hand -- actually a couple of fingers, but no cloth, applicator, or whatever, a LIGHT coat of Kiwi neutral polish, let is set up for a little bit and buff out with a soft cloth. FWIW --- from my 35 years experience as a LEO, every time the Dept. decided to issue the 'newest and finest' holsters to the troops, we ended up with black rub-off on our trousers. EVERY time, and this from makers such as Bianchi, Safariland and Aker. Over my time in law enforcement I carried everything from a .38 Colt Police Positive (shows to go you how long ago that was) to a Glock 21. I'll lay you odds that even today the big commercial outfits still have rub-off from their holsters. Mike

Thanks Sylvia, I appreciate that --- It's actually very dark brown, to match the dark areas of the Sambar Stag scales in the haft. Mike

From the old grump: Back on the 7th I posted a few pics of a pretty simple sheath. It was one of two that was ordered by a custom knife maker --- both knives being of identical pattern. With the first one almost done, I found that i miscalculated and had to dump it --- a loss of time and a chunk of nice brown sea snake. The new 'first' one included a chunk of 'gator, and came out OK. Now I have finally finished the second, which includes a chunk of skin of a big bird. The pair are different alhough they use basically the same pattern for construction. Here they are --- the 'second one first.. Mike

As ferg says, there are all sorts of possibilities. Do you were a long sleeved shirt --- with button cuffs? How about a wrist watch? A pinky ring? or just a ring that turns on your finger. You just have to start looking at your movements and actions and figure out what's going on. Mike

FWIW from the grumpy old guy: I've watched and observed the evolution of the contemporary IWB holster with some interest over the last 50 years or so. These things started (in my time frame) with being nothing more than a simple leather pouch, sometimes made flesh side out, sometimes not, with a simple single point of attachment to the belt. They have morphed into a complex (or more complex than necessary) system. of multiple attachment locations complete with hidden or covered snaps (believe it or don't, but snaps fail) and with an excessive amount of leather being utilized IMO. These things were originally designed to conceal with reasonable comfort, small framed firearms --- mostly small auto pistols and some wheel guns along the size of the Smith J-Frame. With larger framed shooters, things like a larger size of trousers (for some form of comfort) or longer, heavier belts, starts to come into play. Nonetheless, the original idea of a very simple, reasonably comfortable hide-out rig has been completely overshadowed by the idea of rather complex, showy, molded holster rig, to try to hide larger and larger handguns inside the waistband. mlapaglia's rig may seem to be a step backwards for those intent on 'keeping up' with the modern concept, but, again IMO, .his design is a damned sight better, and more usable than any of the more complex, and much larger overall, rigs. Frankly, I can't figure out what the pictured pattern is --- or is for, but a lot of the time, less is more --- and I don't think you are building it for the Government. Again, it's just my opinion... Mike

Chief --- frankly, I just don't know. I don't know beans about kydex except to say that I (personally) don't care much for it. I dye (or 'roon') all my stuff right after cutting. I submerge my leather in vinegaroon and allow it to soak up thoroughly. Rinse immediately in a soda bath and flush well with clear water. Allow to dry, and go to assembly I always test a scrap piece of the same leather I'm using for the rig in the 'roon', and if it doesn't seem to want to take as well as I want, I give it a bath in VERY strong tea, allow to begin to dry a little , then into the vinegar stuff. . When completed, I shoot a coat of neatsfoot oil all over and allow to sit for at least 24 hours.Then the application of my finish. So far, no problems with the stuff. Mike

Well Ray, I think that one takes the cake! I've had a few 'difficult' customers, but never anything like that. Mike

It may be that the leather you are using is heavy and takes up the ferrous (or ferric, I can never get it straight) acetate too well. I use 4/5 or 5/6 oz leather for my holsters. BUT, I use two layers of it. The outer shell may be vinegarooned, but the inner side is not. That gives me two grain sides to work with, providing a smooth interior to my work and, in addition, since the rigidity of a molded holster is formed in the grain area, it gives me two such layers, and a much firmer holster. Remember, all that the Mop&Glo does (for me) is to seal that outer side well, in order to resist moisture .... NOT put on a high gloss finish....... IMO, a super high gloss is a despicable thing to do to good leather, and makes it look like plastic. Mike

Well, many thanks for the kind comments to all. I do appreciate each and every one. Mike

From the grump: There is no 'craftsman', 'craft', 'worker', 'artist', 'artisan', 'works', etc. in my business name. Just "Katsass Leather". The folks that come to me, come because they saw something that I did, or, they were told by someone that I made something for to see me for what is wanted. I call each customer a couple of weeks after delivery to ensure that they are well satisfied with the product they purchased. When pressed about what I do, I tell them I take some dead cow skin and make things from it --- mostly holsters. My maker's mark seems to be well remembered by those that see my work, and a little looking about or asking will get customers to me. To me the superlatives and semantics are just words, a man's work stands on it's own. Other's will tag you from what they see, no matter what you call yourself. Mike

chiefjason, you're kinda right. Vinegaroon is a mild form of ferrous or ferric (I forget my chemistry class stuff) acetate which has been used to stain wood and a number of other things for centuries. I think that the first mention of it is from the1600s. It'll stain cloth, wood (as said) and your hands. It works as a chemical reaction on the material it hits. Mike

From the grump: Yes, I use it now. Here's a holster I did for a school security officer a while ago --- vinegaroon'd and finished with Mop & Glo multi-surface and hand rubbed Kiwi neutral polish. Just two coats to seal it --- then the Kiwi to polish it out. I don't ever try to get that nasty 'high gloss' on any of my stuff, makes good leather look like plastic. Mike

From the old grump. I've used Mop & Glo for around 50 years now --- cut 50/50 with water. I have found that application of it with a brush or sponge often will mess with a water based stain. (That's just one reason why I NEVER use them --- it also screws up when wet molding) A cure for that is to use an airbrush or even an old Windex pump sprayer. Just back off of the project and allow it to, sort of, 'mist onto the leather. Two shots (coats) is generally enough --- followed by a LIGHT coat of Kiwi neutral polish. Rub that stuff in by hand (or fingers really) no rag, commercial applicator or anything else. The warmth from your fingers allows the wax to penetrate better IMO. Buff out with a soft cloth. Mike

Yes. It'll wear off in a week or two. Wear nitrile gloves. Mike

From the old grump: Looks like you did things right good. Good burnishing on the inside of the 'window' (often overlooked), stitched down pretty uniformly around the edge, etc. I personally try not to get my inlay very far over onto the fold of the holster, and try to leave a bit more of the window showing all around. A wider 'frame' or 'window', sets the inlay off to a greater degree --- IMO. I also try to keep the inlay shape more in line with the holster design itself. Now I'm not in any way putting your work down, you did good, and your inlay design is what you like. My comments just go to my personal feel for the aesthetics rather than anything I feel should be improved upon in your workmanship. Here's a pic of a holster I did some time ago --- just to show you what I'm talking about. Overall --- you done damned good, especially if this is your first go at inlay work --- keep at it! Mike.

FWIW from the old grump: I'd try to clean the whole thing with just water first --- damp washcloth, rub briskly. When dry, use some denatured alcohol --- that MAY work. If so, hit it again with the airbrush. As to edge burnishing, I burnish with water first --- allow to dry then re-sand as necessary with very fine sandpaper --- by hand. Re-burnish with water and a touch of glycerin soap (wet your finger(s), rub 'em on the bar of soap then rub them on the edge to be burnished). Burnish and allow to dry. Polish. I use a home made polish 'wheel' made from a 3/8" bolt and a long strip off of a pair of worn out Levi's. Glue one end down on the bolt and wrap it tight and glue the loose end down --- pay attention to which way the drill turns.. Stick it in your 3/8" drill --- lock that puppy down in a vice and go to town. Apply dye or just finish. I happen to use Neutrogena bar soap, it's easily available damned near anywhere. A pic of a burnished, polished, and finished edge. Gum Trag is like Edge Coat to me ---- NASTY, NASTY stuff. Used to solve a non-existent problem. Mike