katsass

The one thing that jumps out at me is your stitch line. The inner one that is. Remember that in holsters for revolvers, the gun ultimately seats on (1) the trigger guard, or (2) the front of the frame, or (3) sometimes, a combination of the two. Your stitch line doesn't seem to follow the outline of the gun to the degree that would help seat the gun firmly, retain it in the proper location, and make the stitching more pleasing to the eye. A suggestion of mine would be for you to take a peak a Al Stohlman's book 'How To Make Holsters'. Every holster maker I know has a copy of it. Mine is well worn but was printed in the 1950s. It was obviously authored some time ago, and though it might appear to be dated, it contains a lot of very good info including a method of drawing your own patterns. With the info included it could help locate and draw that stitching line and save you some stitching, and a bit of leather also. Otherwise you really show that you are interested in leather work and are doing a pretty damned decent job. Keep it up. mike

Well, I use two layers of 4/5oz shoulder bonded together on their flesh sides. I make two of these and then treat each as a single piece of 8/10 oz. This works out well in molding and produces a smoothly lined holster to boot. Mike

FWIW: I have never found that attempts to use an 'exotic' leather as the primary or only leather for a holster works out very well. To me they never look 'finished and always seem to lack a proper appearance. Especially the edges never can be finished to look correct. My suggestion would be to inlay your project with the 'croc', gator, ostrich shin' or snake and allow it to really define your project and make it more distinctive. Frankly very few overlay pieces that I have seen where the exotic is used actually turn out as I would wish. As an example here is a holster for a 1911 'long slide' I did a while ago using ostrich shin inlayed into a dark contrasting piece of 4/5oz shoulder leather. I think that you would be much more satisfied using your exotic in this way. Of course the inlay piece set in the 4/5oz contrasting leather is backed with another piece of 4/5oz bonded to it -- that way the combination equals to be about a piece of 8/10oz you're working with. Mike P.S. Inlays do require a pot load of extra stitching as compared to an a standard holster.

Well, FWIW from a grumpy old guy -- First, I don't quite understand your overlay. If you were trying to show off the outline of your pistol, you would do better to shrink that chunk of leather down a bit, and make it a somewhat contrasting color or shade to show off the outline of the shooter and to force the eye to the overlay as a design element, not a portion of the actual retention function . You do need to take some care in your stitching. It looks a bit rough and uneven, and when you're done poking needles -- use an overstitch right on top of those stiches.. An awful lot of folks use the overstitch to mark their stitch length -- and that's good as far as that goes. BUT do run the tool right over your hard work with thread and pointy little thread holders after you're done Think about it -- the tool is called an OVER-stitch for a reason. It also can help to wipe a damp cloth over the stitching prior to running tthe tool. On the back side of the pouch you have a real sharp corner stitched in to (I believe) contain the back side of your shooter. One thing is almost universal in leather -- no sharp corners if at all possible. That goes for your pattern AND your stitch line. That line should follow the outline of the pistol and there ain't a sharp corner on the trigger guard. Think about it -- An auto pistol seats right on top of that stitch where it curls around the front of the trigger guard and up toward the frame. At least that's where it's supposed to seat IF the stitch is there. All that being said and you're likely to be thinking that I probably have earned the title of grumpy old man, BUT, over all, you did a pretty damned good job for your first go at it. Keep it up. Take it slow and pay attention to basics. Leather work ain't for those looking for instant gratification. Mike

Thanks gentlemen for the kind responses. I'm doing pretty well -- finally. Had a couple of go-rounds with my ticker; a real fun go round where I passed out at one of the doctors I was sent to see where I woke up in an ambulance on my way to a three day stay at a hospital where they couldn't find any problem. Another shot where I was sitting quietly watching the news and found out that a crushing pain in my chest was not conducive to standing up - spent ten days in ICU and then some more time to make sure everything had settled down. . Another later run to yet another hospital. where it was determined that I had a severe staph infection on top of pneumonia (one doc believed that this was due to the earlier stay at that prior 'inferior facility'). The result there was that I was finally released after being declared cured having slimmed down slightly from my normal 210 lbs to a trim 140 lbs and weaker that a kitten. As a result of that last go round, I had lost some of my ability to react to changes in terrain and ended up breaking my fall with my face. Had to go see a doctor over that 'cause I lost a little chunk of bone above my eye.. Another fall caused me to think I was going blind -- from blood in my peeper from the new cut in my forehead. By then I had had enough of doctors and made a couple of butterfly bandages and stuck my forehead back together -- sort of. On top of keeping up with my situations, Ma Kat has been having to go through some oral surgery and dental work the result of injuries from long ago that have lately started to cause her problems. Anyhoo, the sun is still coming up and there ain't no dirt in our faces and we are both ambulatory. so life is good ---- unless you get into talking politics. Mike

For most all of my holsters I use two layers of 4/5oz leather. It provides good weight and strength and holds molding well. Mike

Thank you - Had a bit of a rough go here for a couple of years but seems like I was able to make it past the roughest spots -- so far.

Been gone for quite a while due to illness -- more illness and an injury or two from falls. Anyhoo -- the Katsass will show up now and then when you least expect it. Mike

FWIW, I'm with Dwight. Two layers of the same thickness (weight) of leather works best for me. That equals out to be between 8 and 10 oz. leather. That's all well and good for damned near every holster I ever put together. Mike

It's been quite a while since I submitted a piece of work to the forum. This one is similar to one I did a couple of years ago and is the last thing I have done in some time. This customer had seen the original and wanted one 'exactly' like it. I had to explain that the previous customer had ordered and paid for a custom piece of work and if I built another the same as the first one, neither of the two of them would have a true custom piece of work. Anyhow, I built a rig that is similar in some ways to the first one, but not to be confused with the original. Now, each has their own custom piece of work.

Been in a similar situation, and after digging around, found that there is no mod# ON the firearm. The serial number is the key -- take that and head for the Taurus website. They have a reference in which you plug in the SN and punch 'SEARCH'. The model # will show up. Mike

Just as an observation, For inlay work (and what few overlays I have done) I try to look for the following ---- first, color contrast, and second, variation in texture. I have found that a single color of the two pieces, such as black on black, even with texture variation, is one of the more difficult ways to go satisfactorily. The lack of variation between the two pieces make them 'flow' together and fail to draw the eye, which is one of the main reasons for doing the overlay or inlay in the first place. BUT, as said, those are just the observations of a grumpy old man and I would dare not consider myself the expert on inlay OR overlay. Mike

Thanks for the kind words and I would like to see your overlay work. My problem with that kind of stuff is that I have seen waaaay too much work, that although done well, seems to end up looking unfinished. BUT that's just me Mike.

OK --- after re-reading my earlier comments, I find that I forgot one step in the 'snake' inlay. After gluing, sticking, or cementing the top layer in place I use a couple of old socks (no holes in them) half filled with lead shot. Drop them over the molded object to assist in keeping the top piece down tight 'till the cement cures. If you really want to know -- it's # 7 1/2 shot I used in loading shells for trap shooting. As to stitching, that is hand stitched on all of the pieces -- and all items that I make. I learned to stitch from a WWI 'horse soldier' when I was a kid, and have never found the need to go to a machine. On the holster I use an outer layer 6/7 generally, with a lining of 2/3 oz veg tanned dead cow skin. On most sheaths I use 2/3 oz for lining over 3/4 oz outer shell. If the knife is big and/or heavy I use heavier leather for the shell -- actually, that goes for holsters also. Bigger and/or heavier = heavier leather in the shell, but the lining is always 2/3 oz. The pigskin should work well for most projects unless there are pointy/sharp projections internally on the project -- in that instance I'd go the a bit heavier veg-tanned cow skin. Mike

From the grumpy guy: Basically I do as camano ridge does. Most items (such as holsters) I cement (Weldwood Contact Cement) the edges of what will ultimately be stitched down around the window, portal, hole, whatever the hell you want to call it. DON'T forget to burnish the inner edges of that hole before you do anything else. As far as making stitching holes -- do whatever works for you. I then use my stitching groover on the grain side of the outer piece, run the overstitch, punch holes and go to stitching. I then slather on a coat of contact cement on the back (flesh) side of the piece, (including the inlay) and the lining piece, This covers the stitching you just did, and prevents wear on it. Slap those pieces together when ready, lay it on a smooth surface, lay a slab of marble or anything smooth and heavy on it, NOW, chase mama around the house, try and milk a duck ---- DO ANYTHING but screw with your masterpiece before the next day. Now, continue to assemble as normal. Here are a couple of pics of some of my inlay work. The first is ostrich shin inlayed in a holster for a colt 1911. The second is a bit different. I start as already stated BUT, I mold a figure of liquid latex stuff in the shape of the inlay cutout window or whatever the hell you want to call it.. I do this on a piece of 1/64" plywood. You MUST carefully form the snake skin around the molded figure and cement it down, It also must fit the cut 'window' tightly. (The one shown is a chunk of Karung snake) The difference between the two is that I don't stitch around the molded slither critter. I then slather the flesh side of lining and front piece and CAREFULLY stick them together. I use an old wallpaper roller to ensure good adhesion. then allow the thing to set for a day (or so to) cure. I usually do this type of inlay on knife sheathes, because there is very little bending on a sheath and the wood holds firm but I also do it now and then on holsters. I also inlay arrowheads, etc. in a similar manner except I cut the 'window just large enough for the pointy (sharp) thing to sit level (or as close as possible) to the top or surface of the shell (outer piece) of the rig. I use epoxy to keep the thing in place and on the plywood. Most of my sheaths are for exhibition knives. Probably clear as mud, but I hope this helps a little. Mike P.S. Sorry but somehow I reversed the order of the pics.

Sorry about that .... I didn't even pay attention to the description. Since I don't know beans about kydex (except that I was issued a kydex holster waaaay back and within a week stuck it in a drawer - never to be used again) disregard any comments re: that one. Mike

From the grumpy old guy: A couple of things pop right out at me. On the pancake, first off I believe that that one will loosen up over time. Your stitch line around the trigger guard etc. is pretty good -- except that it has primarily square corners. The stitch line is a bit too far from the top of the slide, and in time will allow the gun to move around in the holster. As to square corners -- that's basically a no-no. Both in the shape of the leather -- and the stitching. The sharper the corner, the sooner it will fray and end up looking like a worn-out chunk of dead cow skin. You also need to work on your stitching --- a lot.. A good stitching groover and an overstitch should help a lot, but practice will do you a bunch of good also. Also remember that the only things holding the rig on your belt are the little, narrow strips of leather at the top and bottom of each of the belt loops, IMO) they could be a bit more hefty. . On the middle one, again, work on your stitching . The last one, beside the stitching, is that your stitch line is waaaay too far from the shooter. Something also happened to your dye job. Remember that to dye something black is one of the more difficult things to do. You will find that there will be black dye rubbing off on whatever the hell you are wearing.for some period of time. On all three you need to work on your edges. Now my standard advice to folks starting out is to purchase Al Stohlman's book "How to Make Holsters". After that -- read it, don't just look at the pictures. And finally -- TAKE YOUR TIME. Leather work is not for those looking for instant gratification. Good luck and don't think I'm picking on you. We all started out not knowing a damned thing about what we were doing; wanting our masterpiece done NOW; and finally, making a pot-load of mistakes. Good luck. Mike

Well, Tex and I are in about the same age bracket. I learned to hand stitch from a WWI 'horse soldier', and a tougher, more demanding teacher I have never experienced since. I figure that since I went through the verbal tirades and (one sided) discussions about my intelligence until I finally earned from him a "well, that's not too bad", that I might as well make use of the teaching. I find that I can watch the evening news on the tube and stitch things up at the same time -- and I enjoy it.

From the grump: This one consisted of two things I (almost always) refuse to do -- lace the edges, and do a hurry-up job. The wife of a longtime friend of my son, asked him if he would/could get me to make this holster for her hubby's birthday. It's a 'range' or 'transport' holster only, ie. one that has no belt loop and is used only for transporting said shooter to and from the range. Mama was worried that if the old man ever got stopped by the popo, he would get his whoosits in a wringer because of the shooter being wrapped in a towel. It seems that the friend had pitched a bitch about not being able to find something to carry it in for so long that the wife finally got sick of hearing it decided to get one made. Of course she didn't know what the hell she wanted other than it was a holster to go from house to range and back. My son came up with this design/idea for the guy's birthday and I did it in a little over a week. Mike

Well actually --- it's deader than hell. And yes Chief, this 'black' gun thing has gone insane. Mike

From the grump. Well, you did it. As I mentioned in your other post, I suggested that you purchase Al Stohlman's book. Had you done that, you would know that sharp corners are a no-no. They tend to wear and fray quite easily making you masterpiece look like a pretty bedraggled chunk of dead cow skin. I'm sure that you can see that you need to learn to work your cut edges down to a smooth finish, and also work on your stitching. One thing I will also suggest is that you slow down. Leather working is not for those desiring instant satisfaction -- it takes time to produce pieces you are proud of. NOW, don't think me just a grumpy old man that picks on folks. We all started at one time and really didn't know beans about what we were doing, but gave it a hell of a go. That is the first step in becoming a good leathersmith - desire. From here on learn what you can from this forum, from the pictures of other folk's work , and getting your grubby hands on some more leather, and making the same mistakes we all did. Mike

From the grumpy old guy -- the FIRST thing that I'd suggest you do is to purchase Al Stohlman's book "HOW TO MAKE HOLSTERS". That book is about $10 -$12 from damned near any place you get your supplies from. It may look a bit dated, however the information contained therein will save you a pot-load of time, effort, and headaches. Just my 2 cents. P.S. I purchased my copy sometime in the late 50s or early 60s -- at least 50 years ago, and almost every holster maker I know has their well worn copy. Mike

from the grumpy guy again; all of my stuff is hand stiched. Mike

FWIW from the old grumpy guy: I have been sticking leather together to make holsters now since the early 60s. I understand that Bianchi was doing the same thing when building his early stuff in his garage. My way of doing it ALMOST removes the probability of the little inside wrinkle that wants to show up along the long fold of the holster. Usually it doesn't show up at all, but as Dwight says, there is always the chance that a chunk of dead cow skin may want to be arbitrary. I slather the contact cement all over the flesh side of both pieces of the poor deceased cow critter. One piece is left slightly oversize to assist in alignment. When the smelly stuff (I use Weldwood contact cement in the original formula -- don't particularly care for the 'green' version) is basically dry to the touch, I stick the two together. I then use an old wallpaper roller to ensure total contact. Finally I lay a chunk of granite that is polished on one side (I was very glad that no part of a word was on it when I got it -- I think it was a reject from a monument company) on top of the stuff and go off and do anything in the world except screw with the damned thing until 24 hours have past. Very seldom do I find a wrinkle show up -- and even then it's right where Dwight says it is, and damned near invisible. Good luck in your endeavor. Mike.

You done good!! Mike