katsass

My gumbelts are 12/13oz saddle skirting, lined with 2/3oz veg tanned. They take a bit of stitching. Mike

FWIW from the grump: Here's a pic of a #1 harness needle, the blade of my 30+ year old Osborne diamond awl and the resultant holes it makes, just to give and idea of relative sizes. Hope this helps. Mike

From the grump -- again. Bryan, you've asked a few questions and received more varied answers that you ever thought of. That's typical. Each of us has OUR way of doing things. The basic rule is: use the best equipment you can afford -- and practice, a lot. That said, most of the diamond awls I see are too damned wide, and too damned dull. You'll need to learn how to re-shape one , and to sharpen it properly. Good harness needles are a must, in the smallest (thinnest) size you can work with easily --- I use #1 size needles. To try to use Grannie's sewing needles is a self defeating process. To find harness needles -- google "Harness Needles", you'll find purveyors of them all over hell and half of Texas. A good 'overstitch' tool is recommended, first to mark stitch length, and second, to 'set' your stitching when done. Practice and critique your work -- a lot. Mike P.S. With a properly sharpened awl, you can (without too much effort) stitch things like this welt in one of my holsters. Those are layers of 7/8oz in the welt. (You need to work from both sides of the piece to align the holes)

FWIW from the grumpy old guy: Good hand (saddle) stitching takes some time and effort to be done properly. The little "sewing awl" from Tandy is not anything to be using to stitch with - except, maybe. as an emergency thing to repair canvas with. A good saddler's awl, (also called a stitching awl or diamond awl), two harness needles, and strong thread (I use only waxed linen) is about all that is absolutely needed. A gouge and an overstitch tool just make things nicer. The use of a 1/16" drill bit WILL make holes, albeit the holes that are generally too damned big, and refuse to close back up, which adds to the security of the stitch, and is integral to good saddle stitching. My suggestion is to pick up the book "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" by Al Stohlman, and learn to stitch the correct way. I don't suspect that your buddy's stitching looks a whole bunch like the hand stitching in this pic, and it certainly is not as sturdy as a good saddle stitch. Mike .

Kayrunp, to tell the truth, I don't remember who made my needles. I bought a 10 pack about 30 years ago, am using two of them, and have the remaining 8 put away in a supply bin. The paper envelope that they came in fell apart some time ago. Mike

From the grump: IMO a #00 sized needle is awfully damned big. A size #1 is my favorite, but I do use a #0 once in a while. Mike

I make one every once in a while. All leather - stitched and riveted. Mike

When I say 'mist' it on, I mean to cover the surface completely, but not so that the stuff will run. Yes, if too far away or with a hand pump sprayer that doesn't put out a true uniform spray pattern of fine particles, you can get spotting, BUT another coat quickly applied covers the problem. I use the term 'mist' because sooooo many folks decide that if a little is good - - more is better. Mike Mike

Well, I have seen the stitching of an (other) old guy that uses a small bench-top drill press to punch his stitching holes. He uses an overstitch to mark spacing, then uses a small diameter nail (about the size of a #0 harness needle) as the bit. He runs the drill press at it's lowest speed, and as I watched him work, it showed very little (if any) leather being removed from the hole. He has a few boxes of different sizes of nails, and uses a smooth slab of plywood to back his work when drilling/punching the holes. His stitching looked pretty damned good - - to this grumpy old man's eye. He is primarily a knife maker, and doesn't like to spend much time working leather for sheaths. Mike

Yes Natalie, Super Sheen is an acrylic finish product for leather. If thinned as i explained, it penetrates the leather, and subsequent coats will build up. Too much, and you can end up with a surface that will crack when flexed, so be a little cautious in the application. As 'immiketoo' mentioned, finish products being used end up being what one has available, and/or what one becomes used to using. You might experiment on some scrap with Neat Sheen, olive oil, neatsfoot oil, acrylic floor stuff, neutral shoe polish etc., or combinations of some of these (wax over oil), and determine what you like best. I personally do not care for acrylic PAINT on leather, however many folks do use it. Mike

Natalie, just a comment from the grump: Water based dyes are odd acting things - - especially when applying a water based finish by mechanical (rubbing in with a rag) means. This application method re-hydrates the dye and allows it to "travel" to the applicator, and in turn, to places you do not want dye - - or it lifts the dye and thins out your original application - - or both. . Years ago I found the acrylic floor cleaner/polish (Mop and Glow) and have used it now for at least 40 years, BUT there is a trick to it when used on water based dyes. I now use the least expensive airbrush made, however, prior to that I used a pump sprayer from 'Windex' glass cleaner. (That seemed to produce the finest 'mist' for applications). Thin the acrylic (Super Sheen) 50/50 with water and spray it on lightly. Do not get as close to the surface you are working on as you would when cleaning windows. Stay off a fair distance and allow the mist from the nozzle to 'fall' on your project - just slightly dampening the surface. Allow to dry for an hour or so, and re-apply. To clean the sprayer, just pump clean water through the thing. Hope this helps. Mike

From the grump: A while ago I wrote a little thing on here entitled 'First time leather worker - First holster', you might do a search for it - it may give you an idea or two. Mike

Just a thought or two from the grump: As T.O. says, two layers will form up very firmly, and good retention will result from proper molding in that case. Two layers of 4/5oz works well on most firearms carried concealed, without excess bulk, in my experience. As to carrying concealed, two things to remember, first is that you dress to conceal. That is, to dress appropriately for the time of year and for the locale in which you are placing yourself - - AND in a way that conceals a firearm well, but remember that you give up some availability and speed over an exposed holster. Secondly, printing is a concern, however, not quite as much as many think. It's the fact that a very large percentage of folks carrying a concealed weapon KNOW that they are, are constantly aware of the fact - - and their OWN actions give them away. It takes a bit more than a modicum of experience to be able to wander around and not show (by your own demeanor) that you know that you are carrying a gun on your hip. Remember that one of those poor, misunderstood, downtrodden individuals that have had the misfortune to have spent any time at all in an institution of confinement, has learned the fine art of observation. That's about all they can do (without reprimand) in any penal institution - - and they get damned good at it.. Mike

From the grump; You done good. Mike

From the grumpy old guy: I'm left handed, and back in the day (late '50s) holsters for southpaws were not that easy to come by, just like money was - so I made my first with just a few tools that I could make work for me. I even used a fork to mark lacing holes. A little later, after leaving home at 16, I ran into an old WWI cavalry soldier that taught me to stitch "properly" (according to him) and did some tack repair. Learned to carve and tool leather to the extent that things done were recognizable as to what they were supposed to represent, but didn't really care to do much of that type of work. Fell into making a few holsters and enjoyed it - had a few experiences because of doing that work, and met some interesting folks; Thel Reid and Avro Ojala (sp?) being a couple.. Enlisted in the service in '61 and spent 5 years of active duty during the go-round in the sun-n-fun capitol of Southeast Asia. Got out and went to work on a thoroughbred horse ranch for a couple of years to stay away from the not-to-friendly to ex-servicemen public bleeding hearts and runners. Got back into tack repair and started to build holsters also. Went into law enforcement in '68, and holster making just followed. Mike

From the grump; Had it happen only one time - and still don't know what the hell happened. On a pancake holster, molded to THE gun itself. Moistened the one side, stretched it into shape and allowed to dry again - no more problems. Mike

From the grump; good looking sheath. Mike

From the grump: I like the thing. Looks like a good, solid piece of work for a first sheath, but would like to see the blade also. mike

From the grump: Thanks folks, I appreciate the positive comments. For Mike Craw: The lining (2/3oz veg tanned) stands up very well. Actually there is very little wear on it except at the haft of the knife where the retention is. Prior to wet molding, I attach a 1/64" spacer on each side of the blade.That gives !/32" of clearance inside, so there is little (to no) drag on the blade itself. I line the things because the rougher flesh side of the leather can pick up small particles that can scratch the mirror-like polish on the blade - and the lining gives a modicum of extra rigidity to help maintain the shape. To Mike and Jake: For attaching the arrowhead, I cut and relieve the 4/5oz shell of the sheath, so as to allow the arrowhead to sit on the lining and as deep as possible in the shell. Then attach it with clear epoxy. The silver wire is only there for aesthetics. Even though I put a belt loop on the sheath, I seriously doubt that anyone would carry a blade that costs what this one did, nor want to screw up the polished stabilized giraffe bone handle like on this one. Mostly these things are collector pieces and don't get any usage - even if they are double damned sharp. Mike

Well, the grump has had some problems with his ticker since October, but the doc says things are 'lookinup' now, so I finally got back to work and put this simple little sheath together for a custom knife from Anton Bosch. Fully lined, and of course hand stitched. Mike

From the grump; You done good. Mike

My suggestion would be to install a screw-in sling swivel stud near the butt of the stock, The lacing will retain the leather in place, and the stud doesn't get in the way. Mike

VERY well said Ray. Mike

Good looking - but - I don't see a sling swivel or anything that will keep it in place under recoil. Generally, those things try to head for the pistol grip when the gun is fired, even with a suede liner, and no matter how tightly you lace the thing on. Mike

From the grump. I agree with C.T. but am also wondering why you ran a stitch line up the fold of the rig ? On a personal level, I leave the toe of my holsters open because crud can (and does) fall down in there - and NOBODY ever cleans out the toe of a holster. Mike