katsass

vaalpens, that is the tail-end of a lanyard loop which can prevent accidental discharge when carrying cocked & locked but also will provide security when carried in (a foolish) alternate manner. That end is tugged to tighten the loop over the hammer. The four little wooden beads act a a bit of weight to allow the lanyard to hang vertically along the front of the holster. Mike

From the grumpy old guy; this is the first thing I have tossed together in quite a while, but the customer talked me into giving it a go, even after I told him I may have mostly forgotten how to do this sort of work. He had to wait a bit for it, but ended up happy. Mike

FWIW from the old grumpy guy; I'll agree with Dwight on all that he has said. One other thing not mentioned is what I actually use most all of the time. Old Ma Nature's smile, starting about this time of the year. Of course I live in a desert area but most places I've been will also work just as well. If you have one of those handy-dandy laser pointing thermometers, (Harbor Freight type of thing) measure the temp on the driveway, concrete walkway or the natural dirt surface around your abode. Even this time of year (we've only hit 90 once so far) you'll be surprised at the surface temps reached. With it in the 80's, the surface of the sand or gravel will easily hit 150, concrete will usually be a bit cooler. Just sit your masterpiece on a small box or something of the sort slightly above the dirty surface, and let Ma Nature do her thing. Turn it over once in a while. Mike

Steve75 mentioned an exert from Al Stohlman's book "How to Make Holsters" stating (basically) that the filler was there to keep the holster mouth open. This statement seems to make little to no sense at this time, HOWEVER. thinking back, I realize that when I began to play with holsters, nobody that I knew or heard of wet formed them. Al Stohlman certainly made no mention of wet forming in his book. A holster wasn't generally made for a specific handgun - usually it for a ".38 with a 4 to 6 inch barrel". A truly 'custom holster would be made to fit ONLY a 4 inch gun. I have had a few 'old timers' (I can say this since I'm such a young sprout) latch on to a new holster of mine and try to squeeze the damned thing to see how 'supple' it is. Back then one would force (if necessary) the gun into the generic rig and allow the gun to remain in the leather 'till it the dead cow skin sort of molded to it. I don't even remember when I began to wet mold my stuff. I DO know that as late as 1958 my holsters were of the 'generic' style and were treated with saddle soap and neatsfoot oil to make then 'supple'. Mike

All the hell a filler does is expand the welt of a holster. Some use it instead of making their pattern large enough or, in the case of the enclosed picture, when one is damned well foolish enough to believe what a customer says and then, is damned if he would waste the leather and time involved in starting over. Mike P.S. I should have shrunk the pic -- sorry -- but you can see a whole pot-load of 'filler strips' in this example --- and there are nine layers of leather I had to hand stitch through..

FWIW from the grumpy old guy: I live on the western edge of the Mojave Desert in Calif. I have made a few holsters over the years and have found that the only time I need to maintain a weapon, (being the subject of this thread) is actually when I mold the holster. Other than that all I need is to draw an outline of the shooter and take a couple of measurements. Almost all of the time the customer tells me to just keep the damned thing as long as it takes to make the holster to his specs and fit his gun to the finished chunk of dead cow skin. If I do maintain custody of my customer's shooter, I always issue a receipt indicating that the only use authorized by the owner is the fitting the holster to the gun. No FFL needed, even in Ca. Just saying. Mike

From the grump: As do others, I also use a chunk of a brown paper bag and draw the thread thru a folded section of the stuff -- rapidly -- so that a bit of heat is built up. Been working well for me for many years. One thing is that ONLY brown paper from grocery bags seems to work well. Personally, I feel that the brown bag has paper that is not as smooth as other types, and is somewhat more absorbent. Mike

OK, Fiebings "Oil Dye' doesn't really have an oil base. It DOES have a solvent base. Now, please don't ask why they call it 'Pro Oil Dye' lest I have to delve deep into my weird imagination and try to snow you with a healthy dose of B.S. After application, DO allow the dye to dry thoroughly -- like 24 hours -- then buff and apply your favorite finish. For most colors of Fiebings dye there is very little rub-off EXCEPT 'USMC Black'. It seems to have a great deal more solids than does many other brands and will require a whole pot-load of buffing. Mike

OK, I responded to a questioning newby asking about 'waterproof' leather dye. All of a sudden a little box pops up and advises that my post must be authorized by a moderator. WHY??? Thank you --- katsass (Mike)

FWIW from the grump: Yes, Fiebing's dyes are waterproof, as are others like Angelus. As long as your choice of dye uses a solvent base (like denatured alcohol) It's waterproof. Many do, however dislike these dyes because of the solvent odor they off vent for a little while after application. Personally, It doesn't bother me as long as I use it in a reasonably well ventilated area. Hell, I've smelled stuff a damn site more objectionable than leather dye. Mike

Well mike, since I have so many fantastic and workable projects on my mind, it's not that unusual that I might stumble once in a while. OH, thanks for the idea of getting out of the workshop - the last time I did, I tripped going up the steps and fell on my face. Made Ma Kat madder than hell. I think she was trying make me think that I'd become a doddering old fool. Mike

B Shift : 4/5oz laminated will work well -- single thickness will prove to be too light in weight, It will lose firmness, rigidity, stiffness or molding (what ever the hell you might like to call it) rather quickly if used as a single thickness. Mike

Sorry about that last post, I was looking and writing on a different one, and got things all mixed up --- just mark it down to a senior moment 4/5ox will work well. Mike

Sorry about that -- I'm building a holster right now --- from 4/5oz, just replace my statements with 3/4oz in my post. It'll work out just fine. Mike

From the grumpy old guy: Make yourself a fine, smoothly lined and very serviceable holster by laminating two pieces of 4/5oz flesh to flesh side. From my understanding that's what old John Bianchi did with a number of his back when he was still working out of his garage. ('bout an hours drive from me - the current place is a bit in a different direction but just about as far) When glued up well (I use Weldwood Contact cement) you just treat it as a single piece of leather -- just be cautious lest you accidently fold the wrong way and end up with with a left handed rig. I make all of my holsters this way, They come out lined, and after molding and drying they are definitely more rigid than a single thickness of equal weight of leather. Two layers of 4/5oz should hold well for damned near anything I would consider hanging off a good belt. Mike

OK, Case (moisten lightly) where you are going to stitch. Groove, then run the overstitch wheel in the groove to mark your stitches. Go to stitching. When COMPLETELY done pulling thread and needle, case again and run the overstitch right over (that's why it's called an OVERSTITCH) your perfectly spaced stitching, make sure to get one of the pointy goodies on the overstitch into where you punched the hole to accept your thread. Push down some on the wheel to even things out as you roll it along over all of your stitching. I suggest you practice some on a bit of scrap - and get the book. Mike

From the old grump: First off, you sound as though you are trying to hang that shooter off your belt with just the belt clip to support it. I certainly hope that isn't the situation. However, what you have built is a left hand IWB holster. An IWB (inside the waistband) uses the clip AND your trousers belt to maintain the shooter in the proper location. For a right hand OWB holster (outside the waistband)hanging off your belt you need to build a belt loop into the rig. As to black dye - I gave that up long ago. I use vinegaroon, homemade and made by stuffing a gallon of vinegar with a pot load (as much as will dissolve in the liquid) of steel wool. Give it about two weeks to do the job. That stuff will turn your leather black all of the way through. Wear rubber gloves when messing with the stuff - it stains everything it touches. ALSO - do it outside lest you like sleeping with the dog, cat or any other critter she deems proper after her kitchen turns to s .... a real mess. The stuff doesn't come off. When dry, apply a coat of neatsfoot oil and leave the damned thing alone for at least overnight. There are a bunch of commercial finishes available, but I happen to use a 50/50 mix of Mop and Glow and water. Keep at it, after you get to the point that you can cut a straight line: stitch properly (get an overstitch tool - a #6 is about the correct size-- and use it!! It will evenly mark your stitch length and finish up your stitching), also get good at burnishing edges, you'll be really be on your way. Mike P.S. You might get Al Stohlman's book "How To Make Holsters" About 12$

Vaalpens: Since you have already tried the 2 x 7/8oz and want something different, go for something like 7/8oz + 2/3oz. I have had just the opposite 'problem' in that I have a chunk of 8/9oz has been sitting around for some time. The nice thing about lining with the 2/3oz stuff is that you can easily roll the edge over and make a nice finished product . Mike

As to the matter of 're-holstering' brought to light by Red Cent. As all folks do have a ..... ah, I have a strong opinion on this subject. Believe it or not, this is an awfully recent (as time goes for me) portion of handgun handling being taught by law enforcement. As normal. stuff taught by law enforcement training officers, will, in time, fall into the hands and minds of current handgun shooters all over hell. The 'collapsing holster mouth' is a falsehood that came into being as just another gimmick pointed at selling the 'new and improved' item that carries your shooter. I am a product of a time when police types 'qualified' on the range by shooting at a large bullseye target. No form was required or taught (as a matter of fact however, a two-handed hold would have gotten you laughed off the range) and you shot just about any center-fire wheel gun you could come up with. --- no matter what you carried on duty. Nobody gave a damn how you put the thing away. Later on cops were taught the most up to date handgun handling tactic known to man --- the FBI Crouch. Wow!! you drew your shooter, locked your strong side elbow (the one with the shooting hand on the end of it) on your hip, and extended your forearm level with the ground. As you did this, you stepped sideways and sank into a crouch (actually you squatted like a .......well, you squatted) Not done yet, you reached across your body with your weak hand and grasped your strong side shoulder -- supposedly to provide some bit of protection to your vitals if the bad guy shoots you (this was before vests), then you tried to zero in on a man-sized target at 10 to 15 yards away from you. Emphasis was always on the shooter snatching his gun from the holster and shooting holes into a paper target. Nobody gave a rat's ass how or when you stuffed your bang-bang back into the leather. As time went on, things changed to incorporate the 'Weaver' style stance, the 'Chapman; mod to the Weaver, and a pot-load of new and improved accoutrements to the job of making your chosen (maybe not by you, but "chosen" anyway) firearm go bang in the correct direction on the range. Snake it out and shoot it, nobody gave a damn how you put it away. Suddenly, law enforcement officers were being taught to draw, shoot, then holster -- over and over and over and over -- to make sure the new cop LOOKS like he is proficient. The thing that most folks do not realize is that this sort of education has nothing to do with competency, but ALL to do with what the officer APPEARS to be able to do. The advent of the video camera started it, then to ability of the omnipresent cell phone to take video and still pics anywhere at any time really did it. No matter how competent the shooter, actually IS, if the uneducated public (or worse, a public educated by gun handling (?) on TV ) FEELS that the officer didn't handle his weapon in a competent manner, or like they do on Hawaii 50, he will be fried in the media. Because of this law enforcement officers must be taught to LOOK GOOD, lest someone is committing the situation to video and can say that he didn't LOOK very competent. It's my two cents worth, that much of that which is taught on the range has to do with what OTHER folks see -- or THINK they see. Mike

Well, from the old grumpy guy (yes, I am, contrary to the belief of some, still around, Maybe a little worse for wear. but I'm here.) My first question is 'why?'. J-Frames be little bitty shooters, best suited for concealed carry. Ideal for IWB carry, but my favorite holster for a J-Frame is a standard OWB pouch with a hammer shroud. The gun stays in close and remains comfortable over a 12 hour day. There are those that swear up and down that avenger style (now, among many other styles of holsters, 'NEED' to be re-enforced with a chunk of dead cow skin, just to keep the mouth from collapsing. The avenger seems to be the first style that I have seen that popped up with that piece of "necessary reinforcement" to keep the mouth from collapsing. Now, I'll lay you odds that that is a good tale, and garners more interest than the most probable truth - that being that it's only there for looks. To show the cut edge of the front belt loop on an avenger style rig just looks like hell, no matter how you look at it. To add a bit of leather, wrapped around the front of the rig, cut in an interesting shape or design, or inlaid with a chunk of an exotic dead animal skin, is the best way to improve the appearance of the rig. In my many years of wandering around, carrying a number of different shooters, in just as many different styles and/or types of holsters, I have never had the mouth of any decent holster collapse on me. All that said, if you feel the need to add an extra chunk of dead cow skin to your rig for the little guy, just glue that damned thing up and then go to stitching, It will look a hell of a lot more finished than just a stuck on 'thing'. Mike

Thanks guy, I appreciate the thought. Mike

Awright, FWIW from the grumpy, (real) old (feeling) guy. Everyone has mentioned your square corners, as well as your stitch line. Well, it was mentioned that you can figure 1/2 of the width of the shooter and make that the distance from the outline of your gun to the stitch line. That works well for auto pistols -- it's a bit different for wheel-guns and I won't go into that lest I warp your young mind. One thing that was not stated was that an auto pistol seats in the holster on the front of the trigger-guard. With that in mind, you must move the stitch line upward (closer to the front of the trigger guard than your 1/2 the thickness measurement) enough to seat that bang-bang properly in alignment with the mouth of the holster. By the way, your stitching ain't too bad, but it could use some attention to the basics. Since I can't see your edge work, I'll leave that alone -- for now. Keep at it, I've seen pieces a pot load worse --- like some of my stuff from the early '50s Mike

Out of curiosity,, what the hell is it??

FWIW from the grumpy guy: I use an old wallpaper roller. The thing is to get the two pieces together evenly. then allow a bit of time for the chemical action to take place. Glue them up, stick 'em together, and give it overnight to 'cure' Just my 2cent's worth. Mike

Vaalpens: You have come a long way in a very short time with you work. If I had to critique it, the only thing I can come up with offhand would be to suggest that in subsequent holsters you might try to get your stitching line a bit farther away fro the edges. Keep it up, you're doing well. Mike