cjbleather

Clay, Great job! As far as order of tool use, I believe Paul Burnett suggests that the blunter tools like a pear shader be used before the sharper tools. He establishes his order with the amount of dampness in the leather. However, like you, I also do beveling first. I would like to add one thing that may be pertinent in the use of the camo tool along the outside of the scroll. Some one once told me (I can't remember who) that the inside points of the camo tool should be pointed at the imaginary center of the scroll. Thus, the tilt would gradually be dimisheded as you go up the scroll. Carlb

Richard, I am not trying to knock your invention. I am just saying that, for the few holes that I do punch, I am quite happy with the results. Thus, I would not be interested in buying anything to make it better. Even if it did. I just don't do this on a production basis to warrant the need to attain speed. Carlb

A month or two ago, I saw a post, I believe by Bruce (But I could be wrong) that showed a geometric design using Wayne Jueschke's tools. I was greatly enamored by this and decided that I would ask Sante (known as my wife or mother around here). Lo and behold, he (she) came through. I am goingf to try to attach a scam in this to show these tools. After seeing and using them, I am really impressed with Wayne's ability to put together real intricate shapes. I would put Wayne's tools along side of Barry's and Bob Beard. Carlb PS I don't know if this is successful. If not, maybe Johanna could guide me through attaching something to t attach to a post. I tried to Brose (From My documents) and then opened it, and finally hit Upload. But, I see nothiinngg.

Richard, i tried to vote and, for some reason, it wouldn't accept my vote. So, I'll amke it simple by replying that I vote No. I would not buy this as I don't really see the need for it. The only holes that I punch are for rivets, screws, or for belts. I don't use holes for sewing or lacing. Carlb

Marlon, If anyone has the Stohlman book on leather tools, sharpening a round knife is shown in it. I don't think anyone could have given a better description of this than you did. Good job. carlb

Luke, My info is in the basement and my computer is on second floor. I will check later and get back to you wityh any corrections tomorrow. From what I can remember, in an aluminum pan (I used a disposable one) and I have a stove top electric surface, heat up a couple of teaspoons of cream of tarter in water. I can't remember if it was a measurable amount or just enough to cover the tools. Start heating it up and you'll see the water turn brownish as the rust leaves the tool. If the instructions are much different, I'll get back to you. Carlb

Russ, I can't say this for sure because I am not fully knowledgeable about what Tandy included in their sets. But, bacxk when George Hurst was still involved with Tandy, they were selling starter sets of tools that were goldish (brassy) in color. In fact, he showed me them being built when he took me on a tour of the factory. As far as I know, these are the only Craftools that were goldish in color. They definetely were not as shiney or brassy colored as the old Midas tools. That was over ten years ago and my memory may have faded somewhat. Carlb

Billy I believe the compound that you are refering to is called Yellowstone. I am not sure where it got its name, but it is more peach color than yellow. I believe that this is a favorite of wood workers for sharpening their cutting tools. I have some and I think it is graet . I use it as a first go and then polish with Red Rouge. Since I started using this, I have improved my sharpening results. Carlb

Billy, Best wishes for the holidays and for your continuing recovery. I (We) miss you and look forwards again to your beautiful work. PS When you do get back, make sure that you get into this Forum that Johanna started. It is great. Carlb

Marilyn, From my recollection, this PSLAC List is about complete that i am aware of. Bob Stelmack of the PSLAC puit this together a few years ago. However, I don't thinkl he include McMillans, Juscke, Hackbarth, and the present makers (Barry King, Bob Beard). If I am not mistaken, you can download it from the PSLAC site. Carlb

Pat, Over the years, I have heard the same remark from Easterns. Unfortunately, I think it is because leather crafting is not that popular out east. However, keep in mind that the next IFOLG show will be in Columbus Ohio in October. I am sure that it is still a haul. But, it is a lot closer than Dallas or Fort Worth (2007 IFOLG Show site). Remember though, you must be a member of a Leather Guild to enter in the competition. A couple that I can suggest are the Pitt Pounders. located near Pittsburgh and Praire State, located near Chicago. You can belong to these guilds and receive their Newsletter via the internet. Carlb PS You don't have to be a member of any guild though to attend. Keep watch in the LC&SJ for details on the show.

Many of us have had the pleasure of one on one help from Verlane. I just want to add that she was one of the most knowledgeable leather artist that I have ever known. She also was one of the most sharing and caring persons. She, Bruce, Peter and Phil are the reasons that I have stayed with the IILG. When the speak, I listen and learn. God Bless Verlane. We love you and will miss you tremendously. You and your family will be in my prayers. carlb

Mike, I did the same thing yesterday. He called me back and I ordered only one book. I got the check in the mail this AM. Hopefully, it will beat me getting the book. carlb

Thanks Johanna for "the rest of the story". You do your self proud with your family and with this Forum. I haven't participated as much as I want, but one of these days..... carlb

Kristina, I whole heartily agree with Bruce on his evaluation of stamps and makers. I also agree that the present breed of Tandy waffle stamp may not be as sharp as the older, pre-letter prefix stamps. However, I believe a lot of us have gotten pre-letter Craftools on Ebay. I just have to be patient in searching. This is how I and several others that I know have gotten good Craftool stamps. carlb

Skip, I have done some of this with craftools. I modified backgrounders (104s, and 888s) so that they fit in close spaces like corners. I have cleaned up 912s, 913s and 914s to give nicer impressions (In my mind that is). I have also smoothed down veiners to have a thinner body. Done the same with stops and the triangled figured bevelers in order to make it easier to get in tight spots. That is why I like to have extras of these tools from ebay purchases to tinker with. Oh, I have also tinkered with bevellers to make them smaller in width and in depth. Since I found the Sheridan bevelers, there is no need to make them smaller in depth. carlb

Rawhider, Several years ago, I complained about Siegels on another Internet leather list. Some factual, but mostly my wrong interpretation and gripping. Guess what, I got a phone call from Steven Siegel and we talked about my concerns. He straightened me out and was very helpful. Since then, I have used them a few times and I am very satisfied with them. I might add that I am also satisfied with Hide Crafters and Wicket and Craig. I use all three as the need exists. I should also note that I have, since then, received a couple more calls from Steven inquiring about very general things. They were very friendly and I was very impressed with his attitude as owner. I would not hesitate to buy more from him knowing the waty that he feels about his customers. I definitely think that he values service before sales. carlb

Tony, I can't tell whether it is a replica of a Chase; or, a Chase. I bought a Chase a few years ago and paid a nice sum of money for it. It is a great spltter. carlb

Mike, Give me a list of the magazines that you are looking for. A widow of a former O-MI-O leather Guild member is trying to get rid of some that he had. Carl PS If you want to do this off list, email me.

Mike, I understand what you are trying to do. I wasn't insinuating that you may be doing anything against anyones wishes. What I said was that Frank Zigon has cataloged, indexed, or whatever you want to call it for all the past issues of Leather craft magazines from the very first magazine some 40 + or - years ago. What I don't know if he ran into a road block with the LC&SJ. I seem to recollect that Bill Reis objected to him doing this because they wanted to reserve the right to do this and sell the indices. Anyhow, the email address that I have for Frank Zigon is email. At least, that is what it was a couple of years ago when I last corresponded with him. If you need it and are intertested, I believe that I can come up with his snail mail address. Carlb

Skip, I bet you thought that noone has seen yoiur comment. I just saw this and checked the site out. It has some good info. I would respectively disagree with the author on one point . When he was showing the method of doing a tilted BW along a center line, he suggests that the ends of opposite points be laid along the CL. With this, I disagree. One should lay one point along the center line; but, on the opposite end, you should lay the inner end of the leg along the line. Carlb

Mike, I believe that a Frank Zigon compiled indices for all the Lather magazines since day 1. However, I am not sure if he has done the LC&SJ, at least the latest ones. If my memory serves me correctly, Bill Reis objected to him doing that. But, I do know that all the other magazines before that were indexed. If you need info on contacting Frank, get back to me and I'll try to hunt it down. From what I am reading though, you may want something already computer compatible. I don't believe that Frank's stuff is. Carlb

Holly, Still into Celtic knots. You do them great. As far as coloring the knot, IMHO I would do so. Primarily because the entire buclke is dark and the knot will not stand out. I would color it the color of your lacing if possible. Carl

Johanna, Please excuse thiks computer illiterate. But, I think this is a good time to ask a question which probably has a simple answer. However, unbeknown to me. When I look at any portion of the forum, the printing appears on a tan (?) skin (maybe this is what the background is called). Is there any way that I can change this background to white without comprimising anything? Also, is there a way that I can increase the letter font size for everyhting that I view. A white, or a much lighter background would really increase my ability to view (Read) the forum. Thanks for any input. carlb

Steveb, I really like that design. can you inform me (or us) on how you made this. I would also like to know and see an impression of the tool (or Tools) used. Thanks, Carlb