cjbleather

wolvenstien, Before you mess around with that charger, you really ought to try the cream of tarter solution bit. You might be surprised as I was at the results. carlb

steveb, Yes it does and thanks. carlb

I noted books. By these I meant mostly Al Stohlmans books that I got from Tandys. Once I got going, I found the O-MI-O Leathercraft Guild. My attending these meetings and seeing the work being done by masters and those with more experience than I, probably gave me my most valuable info. carlb

wolvie, Another method that I have used in removing rust from some old McMillan tools that I found was to use a cream of tarter solution. I use a disposable aluminum pan with about an inch of water. I use about a tablespoon of cream of tarter. Place tools in pan and put it over a low heat. Watch the water turn dark. Ron Ross originally told me this method and it works real nice. carlb

steveb, Could you expand on the subject of putting a natural curve in yoiur belt when appling the liner. The only way that I can figure on doing this is to lay the front piece down and start applying the liner in increments while simultaneously start curving the belt slightly. Is there an easier way to do this. I have used this method for all folded objects. But, they would be much smaller and curved only at the fold - not the emtire length. Would appreciate your thoughts. carlb

Ted, i assumed that these are stamping tools. Then the suggestion on a series of holes is correct. However, if you are not familiar with the tools, get yourself a catalog from Hide Crafters or tandy. This will have all the tools presently being made in order. This will give you an idea of their relative use. You would want the backgrounders (A Tools), the bevelers (B Tools), etc, together I would also check this catalog for tool holders. You might find one that is sized to meet your needs. Carl

John D, My take on how to use a push lifter or Pro Petal (in TAndy lanquage). Yes, I bevel first and then use the ProPetal by sliding under the bevel and keeping the cut consistent as to depth. I use the Pro Petal as a knife to go as far as I want, lifting at the same time. [i wish I could find out how to start a new paragraph here} Just take my word that this is a new paragraph. However, when using the Craftool, Barry King, or Bob Beard stamps, you usually use them in lieu of a beveler. In fact the various sizes of stamps allow them to be used for various convex curves, as one would encounter in an oak leaf. As Clay noted, the Craftool stamp does not have as much rounding as those made by Barry King and Bob Beard. Barry's stamps are made especially for Sheridan style carving with a steep angle. I am not sure if Bob's are also. They may have less of an angle, so they would most often be used in standard western floral or whatever one calls it. I hope this addresses your question. Carl

One word of caution when using un-exposed xray film. The stuff still on the film does come off when wetted. I would only use that film for stiffeners for album covers or whatever. Xray film work great for such use. Exposed or developed xrays can be used for carving/backing stamping without any problems. Carl

Johanna, Better a day or two, or three late than never, but Happy Birthday to you. And thanks for all the help and starting this forum. It is a God Send. Too bad all the IILG can't (won't, or don't want) to see and use it. Carl

Johanna, Very nice selection. It looks real good. Carl

Mr. Wolvenstein and Clay, Yes, I did see you there. Sent a greeting with no response.In a couple of minutes and still no response. I logged off. Clay, 7 PM Mountain is 10 PM Eastern time, right? If I am on the computer at that time, I'll check in. However, with Hockey playoffs starting shortly, I usually like to watch the Red Wings or Hockey Night in Canada on Sat. evenings. So, it may not be for awhile. Carl

Johanna, I figured out how to get into the chat room (with Clay's prompting). But, no one is ever there when I get in. Is there a time and day better then others for finding someone there? Carl

Skip, Just as a side bar question, did John B. ever use that fluid that he used to clean up the leather. If he did, do you know what it is? I believe he used it to clean up spill over from his edging. We saw this in his tape. Carl

Johanna, The Midwest Federation is still going strong. Mostly through the efforts of the Praire States Leather Guild. Central Indiana and Midwest agreed a few years ago to alternate their particular shows. Primarily, because they both had a show, usually at end of March or in April. So, rather then continually fighting for attendence, they wisely agreed to alternate each year. This year must be Central Indiana's turn. Next year, Midwest will put on the show. Carl

I am not sure what you meant about the IFOLG. As far as I am concerned, they have done a very valuable thing for all leather guilds who wish to join the group. The IFOLG sponsors an annual show for all their members at which any member can enter items for competition. This show is not a small undertaking. Just ask anyone who worked on the 2006 show in Butler PA. If you really desire to do what the IFOLG has been doing, good luck. You will need it plus a lot of volunteer help. If you are looking just for a guild to join so that you can participate in the IFOLG show, go with one of Johanna's suggestions. However, don't overlook the PSLAC. They probably publish the best newsletter by far of any of the guilds. But, unfortunately, they are not members of the IFoLG (Carl- you typed "IILG and I wanted to avoid confusion~Johanna). So, a membership with them, will not allow you to enter the IFOLG show. Personally, I would also join them though for just their newsletter. It is great. Carl

Regis, I would like to second Johanna's recommendation about Stohlman's Leathercraft Tools. I would go so far as to say that it is probably the most important book that he wrote. Check it out about sharpening knives! Carl

Regis, I am far from being an expert on skiving. However, what little I do know is that it is not necessary to case leather to skive. To me, this would especially be true for 3 oz leather. In fact, I would guess that, if you have to case it, then your knife is not sharp. For me, when I finally got my head knife sharp, I suddenly found that skiving was much easier then it was with a dull blade that I thought for sure was sharp. How did I find out that my blades were not sharp? I bought a knife from Bill Buckman that came sharp out of the box. This is not true of many round or head knives. Now, I work my other knives to get to this point of sharpness. Carl

Clay, Great tutorial. Thank You. carl

Johanna, thanks for all that you have done to get this running as well as it has. I really haven't taken advantage of it as much as I should. But, I do peruse the new mail section as often as I can. My only complaint (no, slight irritation is probably a better phrase), is the small type on the tan background. I guess I wouldn't mind the font size, if the background is white. I say this because when a email includes part of the original email, it is on a white background. I would love to see these two exchanged. White for the sending email and tan (if that is what it is) for the inclusion portion. Keep up the great work. Carl

Real neat Clay. You are sure becoming a devote disciple of Robb Barr. He would have been real proud of your work. Did you use spirit dyes or acrylics for coloring. My guess is acrylic. But, one can do a good job of mixing the available color dyes if they have the knowledge of color mixing and patience. I believe Stohlman had a book that went into detail on color mixing if I am not mistaken. Carl

Hi Holly, Nice work. I have forwarded to you an posting from Katrina in the IILG that show a product that she found that does a nice job with making black, tooled surfaces a little more appealing. At least in my mind. I had to do this via the forwarding of the IILG, because, I don't know how to get it to you through this media. Carl

Johanna, I agree with you that the natural aging from whatever gives this a beautiful look. It also helps that Little John had his leather cased properly to get the burnishing effect. This really gives it dimension in MHO. Carl

Holly, Beautiful Celtic work. I can't believe that it has been 10 years since you've done one. It doesn't show any rust on your tooling. No, i did not notice that it wasn't exactly on center - the knots that is. Only after you mentioned it did I notice it. Gosh, I wish I could have made it to Butler. Would have loved to see you. Carl PS Johanna, How do I start a new paragraph with these replies. I hit my tab key and it goes off the message. I am afraid to hit the enter key because on my other Forum (TrailerLife) I believe that this sends the reply out. O Well, I'll try it now. Nope, I found out how. The enter key gives me a new paragraph. Got another question though. Is there a spell check?

Clay, I saw this before and I still think that you did a h--- of a job. WRT the crooked nose, I would like to give my thought which probably doesn't amount to a hill of beans, Plus I am not an artist, so I can't talk from real knowledge. After looking real close at both pictures, one thing appears to stand out to me is that the left nostril (Right side) to the viewer, seems to be highlighted while the other side appears to be shaded. My thinking is that this causes this apparent crookiness to be more apparent. At least to me. However, as I said before, it does not detract from the picture. Great work. Carl

abn, I am like Clay. I don't do enough to follow Stohlman's technique. I do try now and then just for fun. However, I mostly punching in advance my slits with a very sharp awl in advance. The plus for doing these in advance, is that you don't have to put down your awl with every stitch and take the chance of knocking it off the desk or table. I do use a square of balsa on the other side of the piece when I punch my slits. This prevents the leather piece from bending and keeps the slits on the back side nice and straight. Plus they stay in the channel if you use one. Carl