Lwleather

Ok, I had this for sale a while back and had it "sold". Anyway it's still for sale (again) . It's 45K25 Singer, s/n EG210092. It's a bottom feed only. I put a new shuttle in it and it's sewing good. It comes with the thread stand, extra bobbins, extra needles, bobbins, the table and motor. I also have a parts and operators manuals for it. It has 1/2" presser foot lift. It sews lighter leather really well, like chaps, vests and saddle bags. If you're sewing heavy stuff, you probably don't want this machine. I have done headstalls with it, but that's about all it wants to handle. It would make a good machine for someone getting started. This thing weighs quite a bit. So you can pick it up, or I can ship it. Truck freight only. I'm asking $ 600.00. Will consider offers. E-mail me with any questions or call 402-389-2008.

Wow! That pretty much nailed it. Thanks!!

You might be right. I did use tan cote the first few times I did the antique. Tan cote, then antique and then tan cote. I made myself a pair of spur straps doing that. Looked good to start with. We were moving cows and got soaked. The antique washed off.... ?? So I quit using the tan cote first thinking the antique didn't take. Maybe something other than tan cote would work better. I guess I'll look for some neat-lac like Leathercrafter suggested. Thanks guys!!

I have some of the Fiebings Antique Finish that comes in the little jars. Is there a good way to use this stuff on a fairly big project? I like to antique some of my yokes on chaps and they are small enough I can get it wiped on and off fast enough it doesn't blotch too bad (most of the time) Anything bigger than that and it has dark and light spots that won't even up. Once the antique touches something, it's sealed and there's no fixing it. Would it help to have the leather damp?? Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Hopefully you can tell by this. Where the stamping stops and the smooth starts there's a dark spot. Thanks for any advice.

I don't think you need harness leather for that-- overkill in my opinion. A good latigo or even skirting leather would work fine. 7-8 oz. should be plenty heavy. 5 -6 would work if you double and stitch it.

As for your machine I would recommend getting ahold of Singer directly. I had a 45k and they were very helpful getting the right manual for it. They also still have a few of the parts available for the old machines. I know my old singer liked the nylon thread with the right hand twist. Anything other than that gave me fits. If you look on Weaver's website (here's the link) this guide will tell you what thread size works with which needles. http://www.leathersupply.com/downloads/catalog/SewingMachines&Such.pdf I mainly make chaps, headstalls and tack. My main thread is a 207 if that helps any. I buy alot of my harness and skirting leather from Wickett and Craig (good stuff). They have an "overstocked" list, and some of those leathers are at a real good price. A lot of my chap leather and latigo comes from the Hide House in CA. They have a lot of "odd lot" leathers that you can get real reasonable. Hopefully this helps.

Wow! Very nice.

The ones I picked up were $ 30.00 a side (anything over 19 ft.) . There were some sides around 15 sq. ft. and I paid $ 20.00 for them. There's a lot of it.

My husband found this on Craig's list a couple days ago. http://northplatte.c...2494521107.html I just got back from there today (south of O'Neill, NE) . This outfit has basically 4 pallet boxes of leather. Not pallets, 4 foot tall pallet BOXES. This was a rejected shipment of leather because some of it got wet. I never did see anything that looked like it got wet. It supposed to be Italian. The tags say BCBGMAXAZRIA if that means anything to any of you. There is some with other tags also..... What they have from what I saw was: a lot of patent leather, alligator prints, some metallic, about any kind and color of garment leather you can imagine. The garment leathers are nice. Some of this is rolled up, some of it isn't. There is some deer and deertan. I didn't see any tooling leather or harness or anything like that. I raided the chap leather pretty good, but I like the heavier 4 oz and up. There was several sides of a really nice green chap around 4.5 oz.. Anyway, for you garment people and bag builders this would be worth looking into. The prices are right if you act like you know what you want.. E-mail me with any questions. I don't check my pm's on here very often.

Pretty sharp, tuff guy!!!

I've done it both ways. It's just kind of whatever mood strikes at the time. If you're looking for the screw ups, you're going to see them no matter what direction they run is my thinking.

Found it.... Segoe Script

Umm.. I don't remember... I just kept looking at different ones until I found one I liked. But I can find it if you like.

I'm just now starting to do some tooling (other than the good ole basket stamp) . And me and the dyeing aren't seeing eye to eye just yet. But I think it's coming around. The last pic is a pair of chinks I just finished. Any feedback would be great. Thanks!!!

Thanks BillB. That gives me more to think about. I never thought about the paint cracking, but it makes sense.

I think I know what you're after. I'll see if I can explain it. On the cheek piece, you will have your adjusting buckle on the top, then the bottom end will be your "tail" that will go through your mounting buckle. To mount your buckle you will take a short piece of leather with a slit in the middle of it and sew in on to the lower end of your cheek piece. You will lay the short piece flat on your cheek piece, with the buckle mounted in the middle and sew down both ends. Make sure you mount the buckle high enough so that your "tail" can come through the bit and back up to your buckle. I hope this makes sense. If not, PM me and I can draw it out for you.

Ok. I have a new project I need some advice on. I have just started actually "tooling" leather--I've graduated from my basket stamp. Here's the deal, I am going to do a rose and a vine and I need to know the best thing to use to either dye or paint them. The rose is going to be yellow and the vine green. I've seen paints out there but have no idea how they hold up. Also I'm going to seal it when I'm done and wonder if the Tan-Kote is the way to go. It's going to be on a pair of leggings, so I want a finish that will hold up fairly well. Thanks in advance, you all are great about sharing your knowledge!!

CS Osborne makes a snap setter that I use. It's simple and pretty hard not to get them set. # 230-SET. I bought mine from The Hide House in San Dimas. It was around $13.00. Good luck.

Ok, somewhere I heard you could mix a little dye in with some oil, like neatsfoot, to dye leather. What I have is a side of tooling leather that is VERY natural--almost flesh colored. Can a person add a few drops of dye to a small amount of oil and sponge it on to a small project?? It's too light colored for most of what I want to do with it. Thanks for any advice.

Thanks for all the good info!!!

PM me, I might be interested in doing that. I love guinea pigs!! 10-4. I didn't really think of that part. I'll do some more recon... Thanks!

I have a friend who is an avid long bow hunter. I would really like to make a quiver for him for Christmas. Never been around them much myself. Is there a GOOD pattern out there? Also does anyone have any advice on what makes one quiver better than another. I want this one to be the best he's had. Thanks in advance!!!!

Call the folks directly at Singer, they've been a big help for me. If they have a copy they'll send it to you. 615-213-0880

PM me. I have a pair of tall top Tony's you can have. I'll have to look, there might be some more around here too.

You nailed it!! Thanks bunches!