Wizcrafts

@Dikman; You can save the needle chart images to your computer then print them out from your photo app.

That Campbell has a stitch counter installed by the manufacturer. It was originally leased out and the amount of stitches were metered. Any overage from the agreed upon monthly stitch allowance was charged for in a future invoice. Machines that were sold to customers didn't have stitch counters by default. You may be on shaky ground Ross.

You haven't specified what sewing machine you have that needs the edge guide (at least not in this topic). So, here are some general recommendations. For a straight stitch machine, there are 1/16" edge guide feet. Most straight stitch machines have a hole on the right of the throat plate for a screw on movable edge guide, which could have a roller. For walking foot machines using standard Singer 111 feet, there are spring guide feet starting at about 1/8 inch. Walking foot machines may have a threaded hole in the throat plate, or bobbin cover plate, for screwing on a movable edge guide, which could be a roller guide. For walking foot machines lacking a threaded hole on the right, there are over the body mounting brackets with a swing-away edge guide. The steel on the edge guide is soft enough to be bent on the leading and trailing edges, to sew inside arm holes and inside curves. The Adler 205 and Juki 441 and their clones accept a Metric screw, bolt-on, drop down roller edge guide that can be set right next to the right side of the inside foot, when using the left toe outside foot. Most 441 clones can accept a sliding roller edge guide if equipped with a T-shaped mounting bracket on the right.

I have an early Singer 31-15. It doesn't like any thread heavier than #69 bonded nylon, which prefers a #18 needle. When I first bought it, the bobbin case rotated out of the top alignment channel and caused chaos. I ended up replacing the entire shuttle assembly and found bobbin cases that stayed in place. Hopefully, the machine you are considering doesn't suffer from that problem. Definitely run it at the seller's shop before taking it home to ensure it both sews and retains the bobbin case at speed. After fixing the shuttle problem I used my 31-15 to sew pigskin wallet interiors and hem cloth items for customers. It is a very good tailoring machine. If you intend to sew belts, a Singer 111w155 is better, as it is a walking foot machine.

Most of us on this forum are reluctant to speculate about machines with which we have neither experience, nor a clue. When we do stick our necks out, they sometimes get cut off when someone who actually knows the workings of said machine corrects the speculation. That said, I did a quick search on eBay for bobbins for your machine and found one seller that cross-referenced them with bobbins for a Singer 31-15 and 331k. There are multitudes of these Class 15 bobbins for sale. You can even buy them a Walmart and Joann Fabrics. The above is pure speculation on my part.

@Deryk We are just trying to save you some possible misery that could arise from buying what could well be an unsupported brand of industrial sewing machine. These concerns might be real, or totally unwarranted. It all depends on how well the machine was built, then if it was set up adjusted and sewn off before it was boxed up and shipped across the Ocean on a slow boat from China. This is something you will have to ask the importer/seller. Also, ask if they offer a warranty or technical support for that machine and where it would have to be sent for repairs. In many cases, unless otherwise stated in writing or on an official website, people importing sewing machines from China are expected to do their own servicing, at their own expense, without any help from the manufacturer. Major well known brands have representatives and dealer networks in various parts of the world. If something needs to be fixed, or a customer needs advice, these reps and dealers are the ones who should supply it. When I looked over the Amazon listing for the machine in question, there was no name tag or brand on the machine. It is a generic build, from who knows where. As was already mentioned, the listing is just for the head. There is nothing else supplied with the machine. You will need to build a table, or bolt it onto one you have. Motorizing it will cost a several hundred dollars for an industrial pedestal stand with a motor and speed reducer. You will likely need to purchase your own bobbins, needles, thread and thread stand. Last, I don't see a bobbin winder attachment, just the mounting block for one. This will run you some more bucks you weren't looking to spend.

The machine looks something like a Singer 27 (and newer 127). A model 27 has an oscillating boat shaped shuttle under the front sliding plate, which takes long skinny bobbins with small disks on the ends. Your bobbin winder is the same as the Singer bobbin winder on a model 27 machine. The bobbins, if they fit, can be bought from numerous eBay sewing machine dealers and probably from some of our supporting dealers. If they also copied the Singer feed dog for those models, it should be able to handle 6 ounces of leather with ease. These machines use system HAx1 domestic needles, which are sold all over the place. Your friend will need leather point needles for the best results. I recommend size #18 (aka: 110) with #69 bonded nylon thread.

The dingo ate your "tubal articles!"

I thought I would share the actual product description, supplied by the seller, of this drop shipped from China patcher. Read the way that product description was cobbled together and the horrible spelling and grammatical errors. The Amazon seller who is representing this machine normally deals with silk screen printing equipment and materials, all of which are shipped from China. I could be wrong, but I suspect that the importer of silk screening equipment and materials may not be an expert in setting up or repairing industrial sewing machines, especially one as specialized as a patch machine. If this speculation were to prove true, you would be on your own to fix any flaws in the machine. If you wanted to contact the manufacturer for servicing or advice, you would need to speak Chinese, or hire a translator.

I called my Cowboy dealer, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, and asked about the synchronized binder for the CB4500. Bob said he may have to contact CowboySew in China directly about them. I have dibs on the first one he imports! There are a lot of details about binders that aren't obvious from watching a video. I once had a custom binder made to lay double folded tape over the edges of honeycomb vinyl safety vests for road workers. It cost just under $500 in 1988. Off the shelf binders/folders did not work properly.

CowboySew/Hightex has a synchronized, wide mouth binder attachment set for the CB4500. I've seen videos of it, but don't know who, if anybody carries it in North America or Australia. It doesn't look cheap though.

There aren't any commercially available. You would have to hire a machine shop to make them for you. The 441 and its clones have very few presser feet to choose from.

I looked at the Union Lockstitch machine in the CL ad and it is immaculate compared to most I've seen or owned. I saw a manual/parts list and a threading rod. The seller didn't show any other accessories, like bobbins, needles, awls, or the proprietary adjustment tools. If missing, they could be purchased from Campbell Randall, in Texas. They now own the Union Lockstitch brand and all parts.

I would definitely NOT recommend a Union Lockstitch as a first sewing machine, unless the seller (or somebody else nearby who owns one) is able to give you some instructions on its use. In this case, it appears they cannot do that. Proceed at your own risk.

This is a 441 clone. It will likely take the same foot pressure spring as a Cowboy CB4500.

Yep, those screws secure the presser bar in position. Try raising the feet with the hand lift lever and see if you can get a screwdriver into the hole for one screw and under the hole for the other. If you can't get a bead on the screws, remove the 3 big screws and pull off the crank shaft.

I just looked at a picture of a Singer 331k4 and see that the check spring is simply attached to the same shaft as the tension disks. The spring itself could be rusting. It is not too hard to replace with a screw driver and some smarts.

Debbie; Sorry for being late to notice this post. I play music on the weekends and don't get to sleep before 3 or 4 am. Your thread must be picking up rust off something along the way, between the thread spool and the needle. Start troubleshooting by unthreading and inspecting the thread itself. If good, move along as follows, inspecting each piece of metal for rust. Check the thread guide on the thread stand Check the top post if you thread through it. Inspect the three hole thread guide before the top tension disks. Unscrew the tension nut and remove the top tension spring, opener and disks. Chances are this is where you'll find rust and maybe even grooving from long term usage. If the disks are okay, run a length of white thread through the check spring assembly (under the top tension disks). If that assembly isn't the cause of the rust, it's better left alone. The next item to inspect is the take-up lever. Run clean thread back and forth and see if it picks up rust (hope not). After that, look at the few thread guides going down, then the last guide on the needle bar. Last, check the needle for a rusty eye! If you find a part that is rusted, and it is easily replaced (e.g., top tension disks or thread guides), replace it. If it is in a difficult location, try using rust remover where it is rusting. If the hole in the take-up lever is the culprit, have a dealer replace it for you, unless you care to undertake a very difficult task.

You have to lower the presser foot bar to get the short foot to hit the leather and cause the inside foot to alternate. The bar needs to come down about 1/8 to 3/16 inch. I created a topic all about this foot set, including a video, under the topic: Inline Cowboy presser feet on Cowboy CB4500

There is another Cowboy dealer a little closer to you. He operates as Neel's Saddlery, in North Lima, Ohio. His days, hours and phone number are on the bottom of each page. The owner's name is Ryan. It looks like you could take I-80 right there.

I recommend that later models of Singer and Adler patchers. I have (and will sell) a long arm, big bobbin Singer 29k172. It has universal feed (as do all patchers), takes up to #138 thread and has an 18 inch long arm with a narrow snout. I also have an Adler 30-7, which is similar, but lifts higher and sews a little thicker. The only real difference between the two machines is that the Adler 30-7 takes a much longer needle system, 332 LLG, than the Singer 29 machines. Also, I was fortunate enough to get the Adler on a power stand, whereas the Singer is on a treadle base. This is a photo of the Singer 29k172 (one of the last model 29k, made in Japan).

Amen! I have taken a drill or strand of round Emory cord to elongate one of the holes on some of my 441 bobbins to get them to fit over the bobbin winder pin. I imagine it is possible that the pin itself could vary in position from the top of the shaft, from brand to brand, or batch to batch.

The first time you get a Western gun belt job, with lots of bullet loops sewn on, you'll appreciate the longer arm on the CB4500. Ditto if you get a job sewing fishtails onto a strap or gun belt.

There are many differences between 441 clones. There are only a handful of top tier brands (see the ads on top of our pages), but lots of lower quality brands (mystery brands on eBay, or Alibaba). For instance, if you bought your bobbins from a company that supplies them to a lower quality 441 brand manufacturer, they might be using hooks that require 30mm bobbins. Or, that brand might use bobbin cases that do not incorporate an ejector spring., which itself takes up room inside the case. Without that spring, the bobbins can be longer and hold a few turns more thread. Those companies won't care if their bobbins don't fit inside a Cobra, Cowboy or Techsew machine. Competition is as competition does!

@carolem I would recommend buying your bobbins from the dealer who sells that machine. I can't imagine why you haven't been doing this all along. You have a Cobra, so why not order bobbins from Leather Machine Company, the owner of that brand? Their bobbins will fit their shuttles, or they will be replaced if a bad one slips through Q.C. If the dealers start getting wrong size bobbins, they will complain to their Chinese suppliers and get them replaced with proper bobbins. As for me, I own a Cowboy CB4500 and I buy bobbins, needles and thread from the dealer who sold the machine to me. If you ordered these oversize bobbins directly from China, contact them about exchanging them. At least let them know that their bobbins don't fit main brand name 441 clones. They may have mistakenly sent bobbins for a different type of hook. Now, I do want to mention that I have acquired a couple of bobbins that were marginally longer than others (maybe 1/2 mm). They just barely protrude past the end of the bobbin case, but the case still closes in the shuttle. These bobbins cause the bobbin thread tension to increase, compared to the bobbins that don't protrude past the edge of the case. You can still use your oversize bobbins if you remove the behive ejection spring inside the bobbin case (not recommended). I would just buy more bobbins from Cobra Steve, or Cowboy Bob.