Wizcrafts

What company? I don't see one listed in your question.

Depending on its age and amount of wear in the moving parts, it would be a good upholstery/garment/chap leather machine and can even sew leather belts and webbing straps. The maximum thread size is #138 and if properly adjusted, it can sew up to at least 5/16" and possibly 3/8". It uses the same bobbin as the Singer 111.

Unlikely, but possible. These 3/8" belts are mostly used on industrial sewing machines.

Only if that store stocks type 3L v-belts. They are 3/8inch wide at the top. Most auto belts are 4L, or 1/2 inch wide. This is way too wide for industrial sewing machine pulleys.

For the Consew 277 and 227 models, the recommended maximum thread size is 138 and needle size 23. However, the narrow arm model 277 is best limited to #92 thread, with a #20 needle. It's not that heavy duty.

All of the sewing machine dealers who advertise (top banners) with us have these speed reducers, as well as type 3L v-belts and different sizes of motor pulleys for various diameter shafts. The reducer has a mounting bracket that screws into the bottom of the table, next to the cutout for the belt. You feed one belt to from the motor to the large pulley and another longer belt up from the smallest reducer pulley to the machine pulley. The motor's positioning adjuster bolt is used to set the slack in its belt. The reducer mount has bolts that let you move it vertically a little to tension the top belt.

You could buy a 3:1 speed reducer and a couple of new v-belts. This would divide the motor speed by 3 and multiply the torque by the same ratio. Alternately, if the motor pulley is over 2", see about replacing it with one that is under 2" diameter. If the original pulley is 4", a 2" pulley will cut the speed in half and double the torque. A shorter v-belt will be needed for a smaller pulley.

Uwe had a Pfaff compound feed walking foot post machine for sale last year. You might want to ask him if he still has it. Otherwise, post a WTB in our used sewing machines section of the Marketplace.

It looks like it will be a really tight fit for a roller foot. Maybe you can get a small roller instead of the large one. If possible, remove the 1 inch roller and install a 3/4" roller in its place. The extra 1/4 inch could make all the difference in the World. Plan B: You can buy a roller equipped, slotted presser foot for industrial straight stitch machines. I bought one for my Singer 31-15. The slot will let the needle feed the leather and the rollers will be in contact with the feed dog teeth.

According to the CB3200 product page, its class 441 bobbins are bigger than those used in the Singer 45k and its clones (13/16" x 1 1/8" outside ). They are the same as the bobbins in a CB4500 and Juki TSC-441. These 441 style bobbins (7/8" x 1" outside) hold significantly more thread of any given size than an M style bobbin (0.435" x 1.023" outside). The needles used in the CB341 and Cobra 26 are system 135x16/17, which are the standard length walking foot needles. They are about 1 3/4 inches long. By contrast, the CB3200 needles are about 2 3/4 inches long. Sewing an actual 1/2 inch is stretching it for a traditional walking foot machine with system 135x16/17 needles. The height of the needle bar and timing have to be dead on the money to sew 1/2 inch and not have fatal contact between the bottom of the needle bar and top of the feet. A Cb3200 is loafing at that height and has a long enough needle that it won't hit the presser feet at the bottom of the needle bar travel, with 1/2 inch of leather under the feet. The M bobbin machines are best limited to using #138 thread. You can get away with #207 thread if the clearances are tweaked to allow that thread to clear the shuttle, latch opener and throat plate shuttle securing notch.

This pictured machine has dual feed (outside foot and feed dog). It is meant for sewing cloth or webbing, not leather.

Most new CB4500 and some other 441 clones that feature harness feet also ship with an extra set of large presser feet known as blanket feet. These extra wide feet have teeth on the bottom than can be ground off, then polished to smooth the edges. Alternately, the teeth can be filled in with rubber compound or liquid steel. The wide footprint would greatly reduce the imprinting in the leather. Even if you ground off the right toe, there would be more metal on the work than the harness feet provide. FYI: The blanket feet and matching feed dog are similar to the original equipment on a Juki TSC-441. They were used to help feed heavy cloth and webbing items and buffing wheels. The teeth provide positive grip.

Until you find a lighter duty spring, you can use a sander or grinder to remove a couple links from the existing pressure spring. This will make it shorter and give you more adjustment upwards and may even lighten the pressure enough to stop marking the leather.

Dave; I'm sorry to report that the link you provided is to the main company website, in Ontario, California, USA. All prices are in USD, as I expected. If there is a different URL to a Canadian affiliate, please correct your link.

The more I think about it, the more I suspect that you should be using #138 thread, if you can bury the knots. This should not be a problem if you're using 4-5 ounce upholstery leather. This will provide 22 pounds test per stitch, which is great for auto upholstery. The required thread strength is dependent on the stress the seams will be subject to. If you are using 3-4 ounce leather, stick with #92 thread, top and bottom. Use a fairly long stitch length, around 4 1/2 to no more than 5 per inch. This will avoid perforating the leather when it's under stress.

Number 92 thread has 15 pounds breaking strength. The next size down in bonded thread is #69, which has 11 pounds test. I use #69 thread, top and bottom, in thin leather, like wallet interiors and credit card slots. I also use it to sew patches onto average thickness vests. I use #92 thread for items that are between 1/16 and 1/8 inch thick. My theory is that if the work deserves the strength of #92 thread, why dilute it with a smaller thread in the bobbin? Each lockstitch is only as strong as the weakest thread.

Here is the rest of the Gritzner sole stitcher manual, with the original French text and images, as supplied to me by @mikesc. Gritzner-sole-stitcher-manual-French-text+images.pdf

If Landis can't help with needle info, check with Pilgrim Shoe Equipment

It might be useful to locate a shoe repair shop within driving distance. Call them and ask if they have a McKay machine and ask if you can bring your needle over to compare to what they have. Alternately, locate a shoe repair machinery supplier that might carry parts for the McKay machines. Here is Bessey-McKay from Landis USA

This explanation assumes that you are using a computer or laptop, not a tablet or phone. Bring the post with the uploaded images into view. Right click on the first image in the group. A vertical list known as flyout options appears. Left select the option to Save (Image) As (wording varies with browser brand) A window will open with that image selected and listed in the Save As field. Choose a location to save to Rename the image to something recognizable, leaving the .jpg extension in place. Click on the Save button. Continue saving other images. If the Save As dialog shows a non-image file type extension, first use the View Image right click option. This will open just that file in the browser, stripping away any html or xml data. Then use the right click option to Save As. If you are indeed using a hand held touch screen device, a long hold on the image may bring up some options, one of which could be to save it.

You forgot to copy and paste the URL to that file.

I use either a #19 (tightest lockstitch) or #20 (for very dense material, like thick webbing or hard leather) needle with #92 (T90) bonded thread. A #22 needle is reasonable for sewing with #138 into leather, unless it is hard. Then, move up to a #23.

I kept one of each size needle from my last Union Lockstitch machine and use them in my hand stitching awl. In the ULS needle system a #3 is a medium size that would hook #346 bonded, or 5 cord linen thread without ratting the cords. I used a #1 ULS needle for #138 thread and a #2 for #277 thread. The largest needle I had was a #4, which hooked 6 cord linen thread. You should be able to find someone who has extra Union Lockstitch needles in these sizes. Or, you can buy them new in packs of 10 from Campbell-Randall.

@Dikman; You can save the needle chart images to your computer then print them out from your photo app.

That Campbell has a stitch counter installed by the manufacturer. It was originally leased out and the amount of stitches were metered. Any overage from the agreed upon monthly stitch allowance was charged for in a future invoice. Machines that were sold to customers didn't have stitch counters by default. You may be on shaky ground Ross.