Wizcrafts

Number 92 thread has 15 pounds breaking strength. The next size down in bonded thread is #69, which has 11 pounds test. I use #69 thread, top and bottom, in thin leather, like wallet interiors and credit card slots. I also use it to sew patches onto average thickness vests. I use #92 thread for items that are between 1/16 and 1/8 inch thick. My theory is that if the work deserves the strength of #92 thread, why dilute it with a smaller thread in the bobbin? Each lockstitch is only as strong as the weakest thread.

Here is the rest of the Gritzner sole stitcher manual, with the original French text and images, as supplied to me by @mikesc. Gritzner-sole-stitcher-manual-French-text+images.pdf

If Landis can't help with needle info, check with Pilgrim Shoe Equipment

It might be useful to locate a shoe repair shop within driving distance. Call them and ask if they have a McKay machine and ask if you can bring your needle over to compare to what they have. Alternately, locate a shoe repair machinery supplier that might carry parts for the McKay machines. Here is Bessey-McKay from Landis USA

This explanation assumes that you are using a computer or laptop, not a tablet or phone. Bring the post with the uploaded images into view. Right click on the first image in the group. A vertical list known as flyout options appears. Left select the option to Save (Image) As (wording varies with browser brand) A window will open with that image selected and listed in the Save As field. Choose a location to save to Rename the image to something recognizable, leaving the .jpg extension in place. Click on the Save button. Continue saving other images. If the Save As dialog shows a non-image file type extension, first use the View Image right click option. This will open just that file in the browser, stripping away any html or xml data. Then use the right click option to Save As. If you are indeed using a hand held touch screen device, a long hold on the image may bring up some options, one of which could be to save it.

You forgot to copy and paste the URL to that file.

I use either a #19 (tightest lockstitch) or #20 (for very dense material, like thick webbing or hard leather) needle with #92 (T90) bonded thread. A #22 needle is reasonable for sewing with #138 into leather, unless it is hard. Then, move up to a #23.

I kept one of each size needle from my last Union Lockstitch machine and use them in my hand stitching awl. In the ULS needle system a #3 is a medium size that would hook #346 bonded, or 5 cord linen thread without ratting the cords. I used a #1 ULS needle for #138 thread and a #2 for #277 thread. The largest needle I had was a #4, which hooked 6 cord linen thread. You should be able to find someone who has extra Union Lockstitch needles in these sizes. Or, you can buy them new in packs of 10 from Campbell-Randall.

@Dikman; You can save the needle chart images to your computer then print them out from your photo app.

That Campbell has a stitch counter installed by the manufacturer. It was originally leased out and the amount of stitches were metered. Any overage from the agreed upon monthly stitch allowance was charged for in a future invoice. Machines that were sold to customers didn't have stitch counters by default. You may be on shaky ground Ross.

You haven't specified what sewing machine you have that needs the edge guide (at least not in this topic). So, here are some general recommendations. For a straight stitch machine, there are 1/16" edge guide feet. Most straight stitch machines have a hole on the right of the throat plate for a screw on movable edge guide, which could have a roller. For walking foot machines using standard Singer 111 feet, there are spring guide feet starting at about 1/8 inch. Walking foot machines may have a threaded hole in the throat plate, or bobbin cover plate, for screwing on a movable edge guide, which could be a roller guide. For walking foot machines lacking a threaded hole on the right, there are over the body mounting brackets with a swing-away edge guide. The steel on the edge guide is soft enough to be bent on the leading and trailing edges, to sew inside arm holes and inside curves. The Adler 205 and Juki 441 and their clones accept a Metric screw, bolt-on, drop down roller edge guide that can be set right next to the right side of the inside foot, when using the left toe outside foot. Most 441 clones can accept a sliding roller edge guide if equipped with a T-shaped mounting bracket on the right.

I have an early Singer 31-15. It doesn't like any thread heavier than #69 bonded nylon, which prefers a #18 needle. When I first bought it, the bobbin case rotated out of the top alignment channel and caused chaos. I ended up replacing the entire shuttle assembly and found bobbin cases that stayed in place. Hopefully, the machine you are considering doesn't suffer from that problem. Definitely run it at the seller's shop before taking it home to ensure it both sews and retains the bobbin case at speed. After fixing the shuttle problem I used my 31-15 to sew pigskin wallet interiors and hem cloth items for customers. It is a very good tailoring machine. If you intend to sew belts, a Singer 111w155 is better, as it is a walking foot machine.

Most of us on this forum are reluctant to speculate about machines with which we have neither experience, nor a clue. When we do stick our necks out, they sometimes get cut off when someone who actually knows the workings of said machine corrects the speculation. That said, I did a quick search on eBay for bobbins for your machine and found one seller that cross-referenced them with bobbins for a Singer 31-15 and 331k. There are multitudes of these Class 15 bobbins for sale. You can even buy them a Walmart and Joann Fabrics. The above is pure speculation on my part.

@Deryk We are just trying to save you some possible misery that could arise from buying what could well be an unsupported brand of industrial sewing machine. These concerns might be real, or totally unwarranted. It all depends on how well the machine was built, then if it was set up adjusted and sewn off before it was boxed up and shipped across the Ocean on a slow boat from China. This is something you will have to ask the importer/seller. Also, ask if they offer a warranty or technical support for that machine and where it would have to be sent for repairs. In many cases, unless otherwise stated in writing or on an official website, people importing sewing machines from China are expected to do their own servicing, at their own expense, without any help from the manufacturer. Major well known brands have representatives and dealer networks in various parts of the world. If something needs to be fixed, or a customer needs advice, these reps and dealers are the ones who should supply it. When I looked over the Amazon listing for the machine in question, there was no name tag or brand on the machine. It is a generic build, from who knows where. As was already mentioned, the listing is just for the head. There is nothing else supplied with the machine. You will need to build a table, or bolt it onto one you have. Motorizing it will cost a several hundred dollars for an industrial pedestal stand with a motor and speed reducer. You will likely need to purchase your own bobbins, needles, thread and thread stand. Last, I don't see a bobbin winder attachment, just the mounting block for one. This will run you some more bucks you weren't looking to spend.

The machine looks something like a Singer 27 (and newer 127). A model 27 has an oscillating boat shaped shuttle under the front sliding plate, which takes long skinny bobbins with small disks on the ends. Your bobbin winder is the same as the Singer bobbin winder on a model 27 machine. The bobbins, if they fit, can be bought from numerous eBay sewing machine dealers and probably from some of our supporting dealers. If they also copied the Singer feed dog for those models, it should be able to handle 6 ounces of leather with ease. These machines use system HAx1 domestic needles, which are sold all over the place. Your friend will need leather point needles for the best results. I recommend size #18 (aka: 110) with #69 bonded nylon thread.

The dingo ate your "tubal articles!"

I thought I would share the actual product description, supplied by the seller, of this drop shipped from China patcher. Read the way that product description was cobbled together and the horrible spelling and grammatical errors. The Amazon seller who is representing this machine normally deals with silk screen printing equipment and materials, all of which are shipped from China. I could be wrong, but I suspect that the importer of silk screening equipment and materials may not be an expert in setting up or repairing industrial sewing machines, especially one as specialized as a patch machine. If this speculation were to prove true, you would be on your own to fix any flaws in the machine. If you wanted to contact the manufacturer for servicing or advice, you would need to speak Chinese, or hire a translator.

I called my Cowboy dealer, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, and asked about the synchronized binder for the CB4500. Bob said he may have to contact CowboySew in China directly about them. I have dibs on the first one he imports! There are a lot of details about binders that aren't obvious from watching a video. I once had a custom binder made to lay double folded tape over the edges of honeycomb vinyl safety vests for road workers. It cost just under $500 in 1988. Off the shelf binders/folders did not work properly.

CowboySew/Hightex has a synchronized, wide mouth binder attachment set for the CB4500. I've seen videos of it, but don't know who, if anybody carries it in North America or Australia. It doesn't look cheap though.

There aren't any commercially available. You would have to hire a machine shop to make them for you. The 441 and its clones have very few presser feet to choose from.

I looked at the Union Lockstitch machine in the CL ad and it is immaculate compared to most I've seen or owned. I saw a manual/parts list and a threading rod. The seller didn't show any other accessories, like bobbins, needles, awls, or the proprietary adjustment tools. If missing, they could be purchased from Campbell Randall, in Texas. They now own the Union Lockstitch brand and all parts.

I would definitely NOT recommend a Union Lockstitch as a first sewing machine, unless the seller (or somebody else nearby who owns one) is able to give you some instructions on its use. In this case, it appears they cannot do that. Proceed at your own risk.

This is a 441 clone. It will likely take the same foot pressure spring as a Cowboy CB4500.

Yep, those screws secure the presser bar in position. Try raising the feet with the hand lift lever and see if you can get a screwdriver into the hole for one screw and under the hole for the other. If you can't get a bead on the screws, remove the 3 big screws and pull off the crank shaft.

I just looked at a picture of a Singer 331k4 and see that the check spring is simply attached to the same shaft as the tension disks. The spring itself could be rusting. It is not too hard to replace with a screw driver and some smarts.