Wizcrafts

Here you go!

In my first reply in this topic I alluded to this very issue. The outside presser foot bar (aka: "presser bar") is binding when lifted beyond a certain height. This can be caused by any of the following things. Check the chain feeding down to the lift pedal to see if the links are binding, or if the S hook has bent over the tab on the floor pedal. Check the rod along the back from the chain end to the left side of the head for binding. Make sure the separator tab is not binding on its shaft, or jamming in the thread guide loop behind the top tension disks. An off-center hole in the top pressure adjuster, over the presser bar. Turn the adjuster slowly and see if the bar drops at a particular amount of rotation. If so, enlarge the hole a bit. This happened to a couple of 441 machines I've worked with. A bent presser bar. You would have to completely remove the parts in front of the bar and remove it, then roll it on a flat table. If it really is bent, try straightening it. Or, replace it. This is unlikely on a newer machine. Is the lifted outside foot jamming against the inside foot? If so, reposition the inside foot to clear the outside toes. If the inside foot was facing true forward already, the outside foot toes might be misaligned. The presser bar that holds the outer foot is secured with one or two set screws. Loosening them allows you to rotate the bar. This may clear the binding. The crank arms inside the faceplate connect both the inner and outer feet. The slightest misalignment can cause binding, as can a lack of oil on those parts. I recently serviced a 441 machine that had a binding presser bar. The owner didn't know about opening the faceplate to oil internal moving parts. It took a long time to free them and remove the rust.

Vinyl fabric, like many types of leather, is basically sticky on top (except the glossy finish types). It drags under the presser foot, causing the top layer to move out of alignment with the bottom layer. Your stitch length may be shorter than expected and inconsistent.This is bad, because most Class 66 machines don't normally have stitch lengths much longer than 7 or 8 to the inch. You may end up filigreeing the vinyl if the drag is too great. Moving along, the presser foot lift is maybe 1/4 to 5/16 inch. The even feed (so-called walking foot) attachments usually waste at least 1/8 inch of that clearance, leaving you with just over 1/8 inch sewing height. I think that a roller foot would work better. The thread handling capacity is no more than #69 (T70) bonded nylon or polyester. The needle size for that thread is either #16 or #18. A standard sharp point needle will sew vinyl, as will a leather point. You would do well to get a 1.5 amp motor, foot speed control, new drive belt and wiring for sewing vinyl, or denim. It has more than double the punching power as the original. Figure on about $75 to $100 for those items. Forget the attachments. They were meant for sewing light cloth. The only attachment you will probably need is an adjustable edge guide and thumb screw. If the machine faults at sewing vinyl, you can use it to hem your pants and lady's dresses, which is what it was built to do.

Bottom has loops. This can be caused by the top thread lifting out of the payload area of the upper disks, by the top thread getting jammed as it passes around the bobbin case and shuttle, or by the bobbin binding inside the bobbin case. Advanced timing can lead to snapping of the top thread due to excessive tension from a small loop.

If that photo shows the top of the leather and the bobbin tension is steady (not jammed or jumpy, yet not loose), then something is jamming the top thread along the path. Watch your top thread from the spool to the upper disks. Does it twist hard and possibly get caught over, under, or around something (including the thread spool itself)? Is it wrapped twice around the lower disk, then up through the eyelet, then through the check spring loop, up to the take-up lever, down through two guides and the hole in the top of the needle mount? Is the scarf cutout in the needle facing to the right? Is the needle all the way up? More things to check are: does the presser foot move all the way up and down when you lift it with the foot lifter? Does it release the top disks when fully lifted and engage them when lowered? It should do these things. If not, something is binding in the presser foot mechanism. It could be the chain that feeds down to the pedal. Handwheel the machine through some leather with the end cover off. Watch the top thread as it gets pulled around the bobbin case. Does it make a snapping sound as it passes the edge of the shuttle, as it lets go? Top thread getting stuck going around the bobbin and shuttle may be resolved by slightly loosening the two spring loaded screws that secure the shuttle race to the end of the machine. I usually run mine backed off about 1/2 turn. Over...

There is an interior adjustment to match the stitch lengths, probably on the undercarriage, but I don't know exactly where it is. Call or email a Juki dealer, or the dealer who you bought it from.

I worked for a friend in his leather shop and he had a similar machine. It pulled like a son of a bitch, but marked the leather pretty deeply. Other than that, it didn't match the capacity of the compound feed machine I had at home. Both were National brand machines. I believe you will be better served by a regular compound feed machine, like the Consew 206RB-5.

The 205 has top and bottom feed, with teeth on the presser foot. It is primarily a vinyl and cloth sewing machine.

Venator; There are several industrial sewing machine dealers in Toronto, most of whom know Adler machines inside out. Techsew is a division of Raphael Sewing in Montreal and is one of our advertisers. However, I think you should return to the check spring assembly and try again to loosen up the sliding stop bracket on the bottom that acts as a spring travel stopper. Most machines that have that type of check assembly secure the movable stop bracket with a screw on the lower right side. This is separate from the screw that secures the entire assembly to the hole in the body of the machine. That screw lets you turn the assembly, which either loosens or tightens the action on the check spring. You will probably want to tighten it to get the full amount of travel, as limited by the stop bracket under the spring. Where did you buy your Adler? Have you tried contacting the seller for help?

Lengthen the travel on your check spring. It is letting go to soon.

Your experience is similar to what many other people go through as they strive to sew leather on machines. That is why I published the sticky article about "The type of sewing machine you need to sew leather." It is among the other sticky topics on top of the Leather Machines section of the forum (this section). The information in it can save others from going through what I endured, learning about what type of machine it takes to sew real leather projects. To be fair, some old machines can sew some types and thicknesses of leather, with what I regard as upholstery grade thread. In my own experience, this meant about 1/8 inch with #69 thread. It also required changing the presser foot to either a roller equipped foot, or a Teflon foot. Ancient machines, like your 27 type, have a solid presser foot that usually mounts the wrong way compared to modern machines. This requires changing the presser bar to use newer feet that flex, or have rollers or are made of Teflon.

That little spring is very important. Did you run the thread through it until you heard it snap in? pulling up on the thread should lift the top of the spring, if threaded correctly. If this spring was not threaded, it explains your ripped thread problem.

I Googled for close up images of your machine and found this one, which clearly shows the lower left knob has an external "check" spring on its shaft. Your thread must pass through this spring on the way to the take up lever. That spring follows the thread with the upward and downward motion of the take up. As the needle descends, so does the take up lever. The check spring should be adjusted to maintain tension on the thread as the take-up moves down. The travel of the spring can be adjusted by moving some kind of limiting tab on the mechanism where the spring is mounted. Please consult your user manual for better instructions.

Check the travel on the check spring. Too little travel allows the thread to form a semi loop near the point of the needle, on top of the work, leading to thread separation. Too much travel dissolves the loop before the hook picks it up, causing skipped stitches. The check spring should keep your top thread under tension until the needle penetrates the material. then, it should release the tension and allow slack so the loop can form underneath. IHTH.

That is a model 27 and probably one hundred years old. It is not meant to sew leather; just textiles. You would have to remove the original solid presser foot and the presser bar and convert it to a modern foot and bar system. This would allow you to install a roller or Teflon foot to help feed buckskin, which otherwise might not slide under the foot very well.

My US Cowboy holster plate does not have those grooves. However, the standard plate did (past tense), until I sanded them off.

Check the motion of the feed dog relative to the needle and inside foot. It might need tweaking to move in sync in both directions. They have an adjustment somewhere that allows the feed dog to move at a different rate then the top. This is used to ruffle drapes and garments.

I do believe you can duplicate that sewing with a "441 clone" machine. (e.g. Cowboy, Cobra, Techsew, etc), or an Adler 205-370 (recently deprecated) They have cylinder arms that can sew inside bags and can run thread sizes ranging from #92, through 415. Most can clear the entire handle and even sew right through it. The bag in your photo appears to be sewn with #138 bonded thread, which is a middle weight thread that home and most tailoring machines cannot handle at all. The holes suggest that they may have used a #23 leather point needle. If the handle was sewn all the way through, it would call for either #207 or #277 thread. It could also be sewn on a Campbell Lockstitch machine (needle and awl harness stitcher), using 4 or 5 cord Irish linen thread run through liquid wax.

I have a servo motor powering my 1920s Singer 31-15. It uses the stock 16x257, aka: 1738 needles. I have a variety of presser feet and feed dogs, including a complete roller foot conversion kit. I typically run it at about 15 to 20 stitches per second, but can slow it down to 1 per second if needed. This is a tailoring machine. As for needle sizes, I use whatever the job calls for. Right now it has a #12 needle and common 50 weight household thread that was used to hem a shirt. When I sew zippers with it, I switch to a #18 needle and use #69 bonded nylon thread. The smallest needle I have used in it is a #10, but it can take smaller. The largest is a #19 or #20. My machine doesn't like any thread larger than bonded #69. Some 31-15 owners have more modern hooks and shuttles that can manage #92 thread. Not mine ;-( The only time this machine sews leather is zipper replacements on lightweight leather coats. However, it can be used to sew patches onto biker vests, using the roller foot conversion. Again, it is a tailoring machine for garments.

Definitely, get the 1541s - with the safety clutch. Does the dealer or seller offer phone support?

Either of those two will be perfect! If given the option, buy one with a "safety clutch" that disengages the hook if there is a thread jam. It is advisable to get the machine demonstrated at the dealership. This way you will know the basics and avoid headaches down the road.

Andrew; Look directly behind the left side of the machine. There is a crank arm emitting from the head that fastens to another crank arm that has a large hex bolt on top. With the outside foot down, loosen that bolt and the inside foot should move up and down freely. When you find the right height, tighten it back down. The downward push of the inside foot causes the outside foot to lift X amount. Readjust the alternating lift thusly. The overall ratio of lift is controlled by the other crank arm that comes out the middle area of the back of the machine. It connects to a curved slot that determines how high the feet can lift. If you find that the feet can't climb over or below new layers, lower the position of the mid-crank in the slot.

#138 bonded (nylon or polyester) thread has a tensile breaking strength of 22 pounds pull. This is more than enough for soft bags, purses, hats and clothing. It is easy enough to bury the knots inside 6 to 8 ounces of suede, denim or soft leather. This thread is often used to close the outside seams on leather coats and vests. A #23 needle is the larger of the two recommended sizes for sewing #138 thread. It is used when sewing medium to hard leather, as it makes a larger hole than a #22 needle, making it easier to pull the knots up. A #22 needle is more or less the standard for #138 thread sewn into soft material (vests, chaps, hats, purses, etc).

Techsew is one of our advertisers. Call them toll free, at: 866-415-8223 and ask for Ronnie. He is their specialist in leather sewing machines. He, or somebody else at the company will gladly answer your questions about the 2600.

That is not a walking foot machine. It is a high speed, straight stitch, tailoring machine