Wizcrafts

See the hole in the frame near the timing belt, on the bottom? A rod needs to feed through that hole, connected to some arm on the upper back side of the machine. You need to hook up the knee lever so it makes firm contact with that rod. When your knee forces the rod up, the feet will lft and at some point the top tension will be released..

Your machine is a newer version of a Singer 132k6, which I once owned. The foot could "lift" 1/2 inch, but hard leather like sole bends will probably grab the needle and lift with it. You will have bent or broken needles and marked up leather The needle clamp may not even be able to hold the needle in and it may have to be fished out with pliers. When I owned a Union Lockstitch machine the manual referred to fair stitching on shoes (soles). It was recommended to oil or wet the leather before sewing. I believe it said to not even try stitching them dry. Also, I ran my (linen) thread through liquid wax/lube (Ceroxylon) that helped it go through tough multiple layers of leather. And that was a needle and awl machine.

I get both 7x3 ans 794 needles from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

With the exception of the Singer 111, all the others are strictly cloth garment sewing machines. You need to find out the suffix after the "W"; e.g. w103, w155. No doubt, some of those garment machines will spin so fast you caould control them. Factories use high speed Juki machines to sew at 80 or 90 stitches per second. They need to spin fast to distribute the oil from the oil pan to the wicks feeding the extremities. You need to be sewing at well under 10 stitches per second and either learn to feather the clutch to slow down, or replace the entire motor with a servo motor. Servo motors let you sew at a slow steady speed, often at 1 stitch per second.

Pawpa, I am sorry. I turned off my person messenger a couple of weeks ago when I went out of town and forgot to turn it back on. It's back on now. I also listed a good email address in one of the fields in my profile.

When Cowboy Bob told me that the 205 clones run smoother I took that to mean less vibration. You'll have to call Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, at 866-362-7397 and ask him yourself. Your previous question about pneumatics would be custom fabrications done by the factory for particular large industrial customers, or the dealers who set up the machines. The new Adler 969 comes with pneumatic foot lift. Contact Weaver Leather, at 800-weaver1 for more details. You must have a business license and tax number to order from Weaver.

I dunno bout that. Most of the servo motors I've had don't freewheel as well as clutch motors. My Family Sew barely has 3/8 inch of toe movement on the pedal before it engages forcefully. The only way to get more usable free motion is to remove the brake pad entirely. Most clutch motors can be set for well over 3/4 inch of free motion before engaging. I mention this because I always hand wheeled my Union Lockstitch machines around corners, belt tips and fishtail patterns. Without the ability to freewheel, I would have had to depend on the ability of the motor to sew slowly enough to place the awl exactly where I wanted it, no questions asked. Also, without free motion, these motors fight your efforts to hand wheel a machine.

I knew this was coming. People who wanted a real 205-370, but griped over the $6k price tag, will be in for a real shock when they see how much a new Adler 969 will cost.

You're not crazy. Always buy more machine than you think you need. Considering you are looking at a machine selling for close to $4,000 shipped, weighing in at over 200 pounds assembled, think about picking it up in person. The dealer will show you haw to readjust the springs and tensioners for lighter thread and softer material. I actually have two pressure springs for my Cowboy. One is shorter and has slightly thinner coils. The other is full length and heavier duty. One thing many first time buyers of Adler and 441 machines don't know is that leather point needles under #23 (160) are as scarce as hen's teeth. That means you'll have to use system 7x3 standard round point needles for thin thread. There is a thread/needle chart on the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines website.

Contact our member-dealers, whose ads appear on the top of every page, about pneumatics. I can't answer that question. As for comparisons, I couldn't tell from the brief time I spent testing them at Weaver. The Adler is much heavier and has better metal than the Chinese built clones. As for a Chinese 205 clone vs a 441 clone, Bob Kovar told me the 205 type runs smoother. It also costs about $1000 more than a 441 clone. As for thin sewing, you are looking at the wrong machines. Everything about the moving parts, feed dog, cutout for the feeder, springs and take-up system is way stronger than needed for thin work with light thread. Put a 227 type machine next to a 205 or 441 and the differences are more than obvious. While I am able to dumb down my CB4500 to sew light stuff, with at least #92 thread, so many changes are necessary it isn't worth the time. I use separate machines for thin or light thread jobs.

Shhhhh! They are now the same company, covering different World markets. Shhhhh! As for the machine you liked, it is available in the USA, as the Cowboy CB205, 205L and 205LR. I saw them up close and they are clones of the Adler 205 series. The machines most of us have are clones of a very different machine altogether: the Juki TSC-441. I was at Weavers a week and a half ago and they have Adler 205s and their own version of the 441; the Master Lockstitch. It looks much like my CB4500. The table attachments are very well built and even have a removable piece to access the bobbin without removing the table. I sewed on both machines and both sewed equally well. If I had the money, I would buy a real Adler. Unfortunately, they cost over $6,000. The new machine they are testing from Adler will have to sell for way over $10k.

You are correct. I meant the timing belt. It must be inserted in a specific position relative to the top to bottom shafts for the timing to work. But, it also drives the feed dog and hook, so in a way it's also a drive belt. I am going to repair a 103 this Wednesday. The belt needs to be installed, the timing adjusted, the latch opener adjusted and feet changed to smooth bottom feet.

Make sure the internal drive belt is not cracked

Also, the 155 has a safety clutch in case you jam thread in the bobbin mechanism. The 103 doesn't have this feature.

LinTx; #26 needles are meant for #346 thread, top and bottom. Try some Schmetz #25/200 S point needles. They produce an inline stitch, with minimal bottom puckering, depending on the pressure on the presser foot.

If that is true, it can sew with #92 thread, maybe up to #105. You should use a #23 leather point needle with #138 thread, top and bottom. Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and Gregg at Keystone sewing are the ones to ask about ancient Singer sewing machines.

I've never seen a 127 machine before. But, it has the basic appearance of a short arm upper and needle feed machine I used to own. It took up to #69 bonded thread and sewed about 1/4 inch or leather. Good luck with your restoration project. Parts are likely to not be available, unless you find another similar machine for parts.

Here's the insider skinny on straight stitch machines and whether they can or can't sew leather. The basics are outlined below. Can the machine accept a leather point needle in sizes 18/110 or larger? Does the throat plate have a large enough hole to clear a #18 or larger needle? Does the hook have enough clearance to allow #69 or larger bonded thread to pass freely around the bobbin case/basket? Are the tension springs on top and in the bobbin case/basket strong enough to properly tension #69 bonded nylon or polyester thread? Are the teeth on the feed dog large enough to grip the leather and pull it under the presser foot? If not, is there a heavy duty feed dog that fits your model? Is the coil spring over the presser foot bar strong enough to hold down the leather as the needle ascends and forms the lockstitch? Is the machine capable of sewing spacings of 6 stitches per inch or longer? Does the motor on the machine allow you to sew slowly on demand? Most leather work is sewn at speeds between 1 to 5 stitches per second. It may be difficult to hold your foot just so on a clutch motor to feather it for 1 stitch per second (I can do it). Clutch motors can be retrofitted with pulleys 2" diameter or less to slow them down. If your machine has a servo motor, does it have enough torque to penetrate your leather at the slowest speed you want to sew at? Many servos do not possess this punching power when dialed down. Can you replace the standard presser foot with either a full roller foot conversion kit, or at least a flat foot with long rollers protruding out the bottom? If no to the above, can you at least fit it with a Teflon foot? In my case, I applied #5 and #10 to my ancient Singer 31-15 to get it to sew vests, wallet interiors and similar thin leather items. I also obtained a stronger top tension beehive shaped spring for the top tension disks and a stronger presser foot spring. The stock springs were inadequate for my leather sewing purposes. My machine readily takes #18 needles and #69 bonded nylon thread. I bought a 3 piece roller foot conversion kit, which includes a single row feed dog with aggressive teeth and matching throat plate, with a hole large enough for a #20 needle. I also bought a standard 3 row heavy duty feed dog with aggressive teeth that can be used with any flat foot. You can read a previous discussion on LWN about the Singer 591 and what I learned when I tried one out.

I already answered that in one of my last replies on the first page of your topic. "Your machine uses standard walking foot system 135x16 (leather point) and 135x17 (round point) needles. They are widely available is sizes 14 through 24."

I use whatever upholstery grade machine I have on hand, with #69 thread and a #16 or 18 max leather point needle. Currently, I have a Singer 139 long body, flat bed walking foot machine in the shop. It is functionally similar to a Singer 111w155, except it has been retrofitted with a large LU size Juki hook. It doesn't have reverse. TBT, I could even sew 6 oz of wallet interiors on my Singer 31-15, with #69 thread. I'd crank down the foot pressure some more and maybe change over to a roller equipped or Teflon foot. If you plan on doing any repairs to cloth garments, a bottom feed straight stitch machine is a must. Mine is equipped with a servo motor.

I have currently four sewing machines in my leather shop and would have more if I had more space. Only one machine is capable of sewing saddle skirting, holsters, sheathes, saddle bags, weight belts, bridles, double bridle leather belts and dog collars. That machine is a Cowboy CB4500. Not only can it sew over 3/4 inches, but it does so with some of the largest sizes of bonded nylon and polyester thread in current production. Most of the time I use #207 or #277 thread, top and bottom. This is beyond the capabilities of all my other machines. I occasionally use #346 bonded nylon thread on projects 1/2 inch and thicker. This requires a #26 or #27 needle, which is larger than what is available for lesser machines. My machine, the Cowboy CB4500, is known as a 441 clone, along with the Cobra Class 3 and 4, the Techsew 4100 and 5100 and other similar triple feed machines with custom brand names that are all based on the Juki TSC-441. Price wise, a machine like mine, fully loaded with every available accessory, plus a full range of sizes of needles, lots of bobbins, oil and thread, sells new for about $2700 + shipping, or roughly, $3000. It has a 16.5 inch cylinder arm that can hold a saddle. The only comparable heavy stitcher currently on the market, with compound feed walking feet and a smooth feed dog and a 16 inch arm and 3/4+ inch capacity, is the Adler 205-374. It sells for about $6,000 to $6,500 at Weaver Leather. It is now being phased out in favor of a newly redesigned heavy stitcher with an integral direct drive motor. It is going to be so expensive that you may need to mortgage your house to afford one. I have left out two other classes of heavy leather stitchers. One is the bottom feed only CB2500, which is identical to the Techsew 3650, both of which are based on the design of the ancient Singer 45k25. These 10.5" arm machines can handle thread sizes 138 through 346 and thicknesses up to 7/16 inch. The material is moved by aggressive teeth on the feed dog on the bottom. The presser foot is either static, dragging along the top layer, or a huge roller that revolves as the work moves along. These machines can be bought for about $1300 to $1400, plus shipping. The second alternative machine is the relatively new in between walking foot design sold in the US as the Cowboy CB3200 and in Canada as the Techsew 3800. These are triple feed walking foot machines with smooth feed dogs and 10.5 inch arms. They are rated at a capacity of 1/2 inch, or slightly more if properly setup. They sell for about $1600 plus shipping. I sincerely doubt that you are going to see any of these machines for sale on your local Craigslist. However, we have a Classifieds section of the forum where individual members sell off used or rebuilt sewing machines and other leather working machinery. I hope this isn't too cornfusing. But, facts are facts and your typical upholstery shop or tailor's machine isn't going to sew saddles.

Old and worn out patchers are notorious for ever-shortening maximum stitch lengths. If your old 29-4 can give 6 stitches per inch at 1/8 inch, be grateful. Don't feel too bad if you get even shorter stitches at its 1/4 inch maximum thickness. This is caused by excessive wear in the driving cam and ring, on the bottom of the driving head piece. You can see this clearance by lifting the presser foot with the hand lift lever and wiggling the foot forward and backward. Any appreciable slack translates into lost maximum stitch length. A pristine stock Singer 29 patcher is able to sew 5 stitches per inch into about 1/8" of leather. One that has been built or rebuilt to the absolute minimum functioning clearance in the drive cam and ring can deliver 5 stitches per inch at 1/4 inch.

Do what I outlined and the outer foot will be forced to lift by the inside foot making contact with the feed dog. They are interconnected inside the faceplate on a pivoting double crank. The big arm on the back with a large bolt loosens the position of the inside foot. Position it to make contact at the same time as the needle's point and tighten it back down. Gotta go, bye.

Unthread the needle first. Clear the thread completely out of the bobbin basket and below it. When it is totally clear, press down on the safety clutch button on the bed of the machine, closest to the bobbin case. Turn the wheel away from you until the clutch engages with a snap. Let go of the button and rotate the wheel in the normal ccw direction. The hook should now meet the needle as it begins its upstroke. Rethread the needle and test.

Power off the machine first. Remove the top thread from the needle. Hand wheel the flywheel towards you until the needle meets the top plane of the feed dog. Loosen the bolt on the upper crank arm emitting from behind the left side of the head, using the largest metric wrench supplied with your machine. Manually lower the inside alternating foot until it touches the feed dog. Tighten the bolt on the crank arm. Rotate the wheel and see if the outside foot lifts as the inside foot moves with the needle. Assuming it does lift, you can adjust the amount of lift by moving the other crank that comes out near the middle of the rear of the machine. Loosen the nut on the crank in the rear-middle so it can slide up and down on the curved slot. Move it up to more lift, or down for less. Tighten down the screw on the lift control crank when you have enough alternating lift. If you still can't get an equal amount of lift between the inside and outside feet, the presser bar may be out of adjustment. Or, it may be hanging up on the chain or an inside part.