Wizcrafts

This is what I refer to as "Poor Man's Reverse" - which is the only reverse I have on two of my 6 industrial sewing machines. None of the needle and awl harness stitchers have reverse, nor do shoe sole machines.

The cheapest sewing machine that is fully capable of sewing 3/8" of leather or Biothane would be the Cowboy CB2500, which is bottom feed only, with a 10.5" cylinder arm and the capability of sewing with thread sizes 138 through 415, using needle sizes 23 through 27. It sews up to 7/16 inches of material and sells for around $1000, without reverse, or about $1300 with reverse, plus shipping. The next better option would be the newer CB3200, which has triple feed, just like the bigger, more expensive machines. It sells for $1600, plus shipping. That machine sews 1/2 inch, with needles up to #27, which is big enough for sewing #346 bonded nylon into Biothane. If these prices are too high for your budget, the next best option would be to find a used upholstery grade compound feed machine and settle for using #138 bonded thread. These machines can be found on local ad sites for anywhere from $500 to $1000. Note, old Singer 111 types do not usually have reverse and are limited to just about 3/8", if not slightly less. Newer upholstery machines will sew through 3/8 inches, with #138 thread; possibly even #207, if the machine is in very good condition and the hook is readjusted to pass thicker thread.

I'd suggest you look into a 441 clone, like the Cowboy, Cobra and similar large body, cylinder arm machines with extra heavy duty parts. Examples are Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4. Based on my own experience, you may have to use one size larger needle than would suffice for leather.That is because Biothane tends to heal the bottom of the hole. Thus, to sew Biothane with #277 bonded thread, top and bottom, I'd probably use a #26 needle, rather than the usual #25.

Carol; You can buy type 794 and 7x3 in packages of ten needles from dealers who's banners appear on top of our pages. They can mail them anywhere in the World. It will be a lot cheaper than buying 100 needles in .EU. You can also buy them on eBay, from sellers in .EU.

It would be a good idea to rotate the outside foot so it's inline with the indie foot and not hitting outside the throat plate.

You're better off relocating this ad in the Marketplace section, under Sewing Equipment, Used. This is the wrong place to sell stuff.

I'm happy to have been of help to you. Now, go back to the proper needle/thread combination.

You definitely should be able to easily pull the work out (usually backwards) with the presser feet all the way up (by knee, foot, or hand lever). With nothing being sewn, simply engage the presser foot lift pedal or knee lever all the way while watching the upper tension disks. They should open up and allow the thread to flow with almost zero tension. Failure to release the disks can be due to excessive upper spring tension, where the thumb nut is screwed in so far there is no room left for the disks to separate. If this is what's happening to you, back off the top tension until the disks can separate enough to let the thread pass freely. Go to the bobbin case and back off the spring tension screw until there is just a slight amount of tension on the bobbin thread, as it comes out the top. The bobbin thread must not be jammed. If it is, investigate to find out where it is binding. If you have backed off the upper tension nut and still cannot get the disks to separate with the (foot/knee) lifter, call Ronnie on Monday and ask for assistance troubleshooting the lift mechanism settings. This is inside the head adjustments and I won't delve into them on your new, warrantied machine. If the 2700 has a top facing bobbin that drops in, there is probably a "latch opener" arm that has a single screw adjustment. Ronny can talk you through any changes to that arm. It's job is to pull the bobbin case tab forward to let the top thread pass freely. It also has to release the case at the right moment to let the thread finish its trip without getting hung up by the latch opener. If the top thread does get stuck on the opener finger, your tension settings go down the toilet. If the bobbin tension is good, this could explain why adding more top tension doesn't help.

LRanger; Make sure you check the top thread path to ensure that it hasn't risen up out of the middle of the upper disks. That will cause birdsnests due to no top tension. Also, always hold back the threads, or at least the top thread, for the first three stitches. Reverse not lining up with forward is correctable with adjustments to the machine, which I won't touch on here. But, you can try to equalize the stitches yourself using this method: Use the hand wheel to lower the needle until the point just reaches the feed dog hole. At this position both feet should also be fully down. If the inside foot is raised above the feed dog, do the following: Loosen the large straight blade bolt on the knuckle on the back of the machine, which is driven by a vertically movable crank shaft coming out of the body. It's not the crank arm you need to adjust, but the bolt on the top rear. This bolt tightens down the shaft that moves the presser feet. When you loosen the big bolt the outside foot will snap down, if it isn't already down. The inside foot will be movable by hand. Push the inside foot down with your finger until it is solidly against the feed dog (with the outside foot down all the way). Tighten the big bolt. What this does is to more or less equalize the lift of the feet, in sync with the point of the needle. It often is a simple way to also match forward and reverse stitches, all else being set correctly inside the machine. Your machine has 10.5 inches inside the body. If the backtack stitches still won't line up, use the Poor Man's Reverse. Spin the work 180 degrees, sew three stitches, then spin it back and sew to the end. Repeat the reverse direction at the end. This is how it was done on industrial sewing machines from the time Noah emerged from the Ark.

The inside foot is severely bent up on the left and down on the right. This is wrong! Replace the inside foot, or both feet.

Both of his splitters have been sold.

I don't know about the alignment of his machine either. He needs to check the presser foot to see if it lies flat on the throat plate on both sides. If the foot isn't square on the plate, the head may be out of alignment (four bolts). Or, the gearbox may be misaligned. There are two bolts under the gearbox that secure it to the arm.

Constabulary; I believe his machine is not misaligned. He "can" move the needle to the left or center of the hole. But, if he does, the machine will skip stitches, just like my 172. There is something about the cam on the back, or the clearances in the shuttle drive system that causes the loops over the eye to be diminished and hard to pick up. Thus, keeping the needle all the way to the right gives the hook a better chance of picking up the little thread loop. Sergeant; Replace your shuttle and see if that helps. They are not all cast the same. Yours may be blunt, or worn down.

I own a Singer 29k172, which is the long arm, big bobbin version of your machine. It too has to have the needle all the way to the right to avoid skipped stitches. Timing is difficult on these Japanese built Singers, which were the last of the line of the 29k series. They were last produced in the late 1960s and early 1970s.

I use my Singer 29k "patchers" to sew embroidered patches onto vests and jackets, especially over pockets and sleeves. I also use them to repair purse and sandal straps and loose thread on shoe and boot uppers. Their sole advantage is that the machines can sew in any direction and have very narrow snouts and long cylinder arms. Other than that, they serve no other purpose in my shop. I limit my patchers to using #69 bonded thread, top and bobbin. The stitch length gets shorter over time, with use. Eventually, the machines will need to have the feed parts replaced, or brazed and shaped, to regain the original 5 to the inch maximum. The stitch length also gets progressively shorter as you sew over 1/8 inch of material. Finally, the feed is via teeth on the presser foot. These teeth will leave lasting impressions in most smooth top grain leathers, especially in veg-tan. Rubberizing the bottom of the foot reduces its grip on slick leather, further reducing the stitch length. You can still buy tiny patcher sized spools of bonded nylon thread from Wawak.

My thinking on this is if the #207 thread you use is soft, rather than stiff, you'll have better luck with it. This means probably not using black on top all the time, unless you get a batch that does not act like a coil spring. You might want to try some of the bonded polyester that Campbell Randall sells. I have a couple spools in black and white and the black is definitely softer than any of my bonded nylon thread.

Check the label on the long belt to see its "size." The legend may begin with 3L, which is the width designation. This may be followed by a dual number, like 58, 59, 60, etc. That is the circumference of the inside of the belt. Your machine has a speed reducer system that mounts on a square steel block. It can be moved up and down by loosening the one bolt facing the outside right on that post. The belt feeding up to the machine is usually placed around the smallest pulley on the reducer. If you have already lowered the reducer as far down as it can go and the belt slips on the smallest pulley, order a belt one inch (size) shorter. When it arrives, loosen the bolt, remove the old belt and install the new one. Then set it for no more than 1/2 inch deflection if the middle and tighten it down. The shorter belt goes from the motor pulley to the large wheel on the reducer. You can adjust the motor position to tighten that belt for minimal deflection. I usually spray belt no-slip on my sewing machine belts. This lets you run them a little looser than a dry belt. Looser belts translate into longer life for the interconnected components and their bearings.

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, the primary Cowboy dealer in the USA, can advise you about the cost of boxing and shipping a Cowboy machine to Scandinavia. Your local voltage will need to be considered.

It appears that you already have regular sharp point needles. Bonded polyester thread is better than bonded nylon for use in sunlight and moisture. It is also more expensive.

If you want to sew with #69 bonded thread, use a #18 (110) needle. A #150 needle is waaaaay too big! It is meant for #138 thread, which is twice the diameter of #69. Also, do not use a leather point needle to sew vinyl, unless nothing else is available. Your goal should be to hide the knots inside/between the layers. If the bottom stitches are too loose, tighten the bobbin spring a bit. If this causes the knots to lay under the material, increase the top spring tension to compensate. Tighter springs cause tighter stitches. Over-tightening causes puckering of the material. Find a happy balance, but use the correct needle/thread combination.

The CB227R can sew from two layers of denim or vinyl, up to 3/8 inches of leather or webbing. It handles a range of thread sizes, from #69 through #138. It can go slightly over and under those sizes, but not with as much accuracy. It is not so great sewing linings, or thin garments, due to the way walking foot mechanisms are constructed. I keep a separate straight stitch machine for cloth garments. The fixed needle, tiny needle hole and three row feed dogs are better suited to light work and thin, cotton thread. Where a walking foot machine will make you money is sewing patches onto bikers' vests. With a removable table attachment you can keep the backs and front sides flat for large patches. Seat covers are easier to sew on a cylinder arm walking foot machine. Bags are also.

Any of the following, standard upholstery grade, compound feed walking foot machines will handle your anticipated work, and are in the same ballpark, price-wise. Techsew 106 or a Cobra Class 17, or a Consew 206RB-5, or even a Chandler 406RB-1 As for Juki, look into the Juki DNU-1541s.

I would sooner drive to Texas in my station wagon and buy a fully rebuilt Campbell Randall high lift needle and awl stitcher than spend over $8500 on an Adler. I would still have money left over after buying the Randall.

Here is a direct link to the accessories page for the Cowboy 441 machine presser feet, etc: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb-acc-pack.html

Andrew, what is the usable width of the blade? I am trying to come up with enough money to buy the splitter and have it shipped. Can you get an estimate for shipping to 48509 (a commercial building)?