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Everything posted by Wizcrafts
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If we lived closer to each other I'd sell you my CB4500 so I can buy a CB5500 (25" arm). I had to sew a double leather 3" wide belt and avoid the Dee-rings. It required some acrobatics to fold the long end up or down to sew across where it needed to be done.
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If necessary, loosen the bobbin spring slightly, lift the leading edge with a jewelers' screwdriver, then pull the bobbin thread under it. Tighten the spring for a smooth pull, with just a modicum of resistance. Be careful to not unscrew it so far that the tiny screw pops out.
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I answered your question, in this topic (belonging to somebody else, from 2010), on the 10th of August. Did you not read my reply?
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Test Stitches Ok; On Actual Bag Not So Much
Wizcrafts replied to Leese's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Is the machine sewing properly now? If so, this topic can be closed.- 9 replies
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Consider this scientific fact: A CB4500 can sew everything that a CB3200 can sew. This includes the thickness of the leather, depth to the right and thickness of the thread. It does these things when you are only sewing 1/2 inch or under. Both machines will sew 8 ounce projects with #138 thread. Both will lay down a tight stitch of #277 into 1/2 inch of holster or sheath. That is where the comparison ends. The CB4500 will continue to sew thicker packages and wider projects. It will accept a raised holster or stirrup plate and still have enough top clearance to sew 3/8 inch of leather on the plate. The 3200 cannot do that.
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I have bought stuff from all of the above. No regrets. I now get most of my machines from Toledo Industrial, which is just 114 miles south of me. You are quite a distance away from most of our member dealer, so you will be paying a shipping charge. A difference of $50 shouldn't be the most important option when buying a new sewing machine. Talk to these dealers and let them know where you are at as a sewer. If you are at the beginner's stage, they can anticipate having to answer a lot of follow-up questions. Can you wait for replies to voicemail messages you leave? Or, will you require instant answers? Will email exchanges work for you? These are important questions only you can answer. The people running these businesses are often very busy picking up, setting up, servicing, or delivering machines. They will all call you back, but it may not be instantly, or even the same day. I sometimes have to use email or private messages through the forum to get answers to minute detail questions I have about this or that machine. Sometimes you can get help faster from other members who own the same machine you are having problems with. Regarding the CB3200 vs the CB4500/Class 4, decide first how thick you will need to sew once your business is in full swing. Also, try to anticipate how long the arm should be to clear the work you may have to sew. I have a 4500 which has a 16.5 inch arm and need every bit of it on some jobs. My previous harness stitcher had 12" clearance and that was often inadequate. Bear in mind that a long arm may also come in handy for thick leather items that need to be turned around as you sew them. If the body depth is too short, the item will have to be bent up or down as you turn it. That may not always be possible. A longer arm will save the job.
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You can remove one needle and use it as a single needle machine. It cannot use #277 (T270) thread It can use a #23 needle, which is right for #138 thread, top and bottom. It can also sew with #207 on top, but only #138 in the bobbin. The hooks in these machines are not made for larger thread. You'll need to move up to a 441 or Adler 205 clone to use #277 thread.
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Test Stitches Ok; On Actual Bag Not So Much
Wizcrafts replied to Leese's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Why on earth did you move the needle bar up? Was the hook arriving while the scarf was still below it? The needlebar should be set so that the hook arrives in the center of the scarf, on the upstroke, about 1/8" above the eye. This is usually when the best loop has formed. If you have too much top thread at the needle, increase the throw of the check spring. It controls how much slack there is in the top thread. In fact, make sure you are passing the thread around the check spring disks, then the spring, on the way to the take-up lever. Failure to go through these parts will cause the trouble you describe.- 9 replies
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I don't have photos handy right now, but I can put leather thread sizes into perspective compared to home sewing thread. Most home sewing machines are built to use the cotton or polycore threads sold at Walmart, Kmart, Target, Joann Fabrics, etc. The typical number equivalent that makes sense to us would be that those common domestic sewing threads for shirts would be about 1/2 to 2/3 the thickness of the smallest thread commonly used in leather sewing: #b69, or Tex70. The domestic thread would require a #11 or 12 needle. The smallest thread we use (69) requires a #16 or 18 needle. Strength-wise, domestic cotton thread might break with a good tug of your hands, pulling the ends of the thread in opposite directions. #69 bonded nylon requires 11 pounds pull before it thinks of breaking. Jeans are usually sewn with what's sold as Jeans thread. It can be had in three sizes, from super thin to quite thick, with #80 being the most common. This is a topstitch thread that is hard to sew on a domestic machine. It requires a #19 needle, at minimum. Domestic needles normally stop at #18. The next size to it in bonded thread is #92 (T90). It has 50% more strength than #69 and requires a #19 or 20 needle. This is a good size for wallets, purses, backpacks and lined belts not exceeding 6 - 8 ounces thickness. Serious leather sewing begins with #138 bonded thread, using a #23 leather point needle. The breaking strength is 22 pounds pull. I use it to construct rifle slings, guitar straps, pocket holsters, heavier wallets and money belts. Domestic machines cannot sew with this thread under any circumstances. This is also the largest typical thread used in upholstery and in upholstery class walking foot machines. Holsters, double leather belts, knife sheathes, handcuff pouches and the like are usually sewn with combinations of #207 and #277 bonded thread. Items that are subject to abuse, or which must not give up the thread if the item gets caught in something, or holsters that could be in life and death struggles for a gun, should be sewn with a minimum of #277 thread, top and bottom. This thread has 44 pounds strength per stitch. It requires a #25 leather point needle and a very large and super heavy duty sewing machine. These machines are sometimes called harness stitchers. Many here use what we call 441 clones, based on the original Juki TSC-441, but half the cost. Saddlers and harness makers from the old school often prefer a different stitching machine than the 441 types, which are triple feed walking foot machines, using a large, closed eye needle. They often own needle and awl stitchers, which use a barbed eye needle and stabbing awl. The machines are HUGE and heavy; sometimes being over 100 years old and still going. I've owned two of these: Union Lockstitch machines. They didn't blink when sewing with #346 and larger thread, which has a 66 pound strength per stitch. I even used #554 at times, which is almost 1 mm thick. I used #346 thread on double leather weight lifters' belts, sewn on a Union Lockstitch machine. With the pedal all the way down, they sew 15 stitches per second and sound like 50 caliber machine guns. I hope this helps put threads into the perspective you were seeking.
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Test Stitches Ok; On Actual Bag Not So Much
Wizcrafts replied to Leese's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
My partner forgot to pull the top thread all the way into the upper tension disks today. The result was a solid bobbin thread under the work with loops of top thread surrounding the bobbin thread. Pull the top thread all the way down before stitching.- 9 replies
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Have you contacted our member-dealers who's ad banners appear on top of every page here?
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The LU-562 is a decent walking foot machine. They only have a standard bobbin, whereas the 563 has a double capacity bobbin. The price is a bit high for a machine that the seller admits needs work. If you need to send it to a dealer for repairs, the cost will go up a lot. Have you checked with any dealers for good, working walking foot machines? You might pay a few hundred more, but get one that sews properly and probably has a servo motor. Or, you might get real lucky and learn that the only reason it needs timing is because the safety clutch disengaged the shuttle to protect it after a thread jam. But, don't count on it.
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Dual feed usually relies upon teeth on the presser foot to claw the material forward or backward for each stitch. The feed dog on the bottom assists the feeding. The needle and inside foot are horizontally static and only move vertically. Layers can separate if not stapled, taped, or glued. The teeth will mark smooth top grain leather. These machines are okay for pebbled grain, or purse, shoe, upholstery, vest, or motorcycle leathers. Then there is the ancient Singer spring foot system that has a spring loaded outer foot that follows the material backward, with the feed dog raised and moving, then snaps forward when the feed dog drops. The outside foot slips and slides on very smooth top grain leather and this results in stitches varying in length. Given any choice, try to buy a triple (compound) feed walking foot machine. Ask about Consew, Chandler, Juki, Seiko, Adler, or a clone of these machines.
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To the O.P.; A "serger" is a machine that is built to sew a tight stitch over the edge of garments to prevent the cloth from unraveling. They are also known as overlock machines. The needles are typically very thin and cannot stand penetrating leather. Look inside a pair of jeans and you will see this overlock stitching on one side.
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Which Brand Of Portable Walking Foot Machine Is Best
Wizcrafts replied to KristenLeigh333's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Tejas made a very important statement. He pointed out that just because a sewing machine has a "walking foot" system, it is not necessarily the best walking foot system for sewing leather. We prefer to use what are known as compound, or triple feed walking feet. A triple feed system has three items moving in sync: the feed dog, the needle and the inside foot. The outside foot moves up and down to either hold down the leather between stitches, or to allow the above mentioned group to move it as the stitch is formed. Portable walking foot machines are all dual feed, with the outside foot moving in sync with the feed dog. The needle and inside foot simply go up and down. Additionally, these machines rely upon teeth on the bottom of the feet to assist it with feeding slippery material. These teeth will noticeably mark the top of the leather. -
You can contact our member-dealers for parts and copies of adjusters manuals.
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If it sews and has needles and bobbins, it is worth something. It won't sew holsters, but will probably do wallets and thin pouches and cases. It looks like an interesting project for somebody willing to restore it. The size of the needles determines how thick the thread can be. See what size needle and thread it is setup with. Maybe the previous owner modified it to sew thicker and heavier than Davis intended.
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I have several Singer thumb screws that secure attachments onto the bed or a cover plate. Most that are unaltered are 5-40 pitch. Your machine may use 5-40, or 6-40, or something else.
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The Davis VF2 went out of production around 1924. Yours may be older than that. It probably uses the same system 15x1 needles most home machines use today. But, the shuttle is another story. Hopefully, the seller has bobbins and other spare parts, cause you probably aren't going to find very many online. he VF2 has a dual feed walking foot, but no bottom feed at all. The bullet shaped shuttle oscillates in an arc under the machine. If the point is damaged, it won't pick up the needle thread. From what I've read, most of these sell at auctions or antique shops and sell in the range of $100 to $200, depending on their physical condition. It is possible that a perfectly functional and clean Davis VF2 could fetch $300, but it would have to be in very good condition.
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The GA5 machines are entirely bottom feeders. Doing just about anything to the feed dog will reduce the quality of feed. To partially compensate you might have to convert it into a roller foot machine.
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Single phase 110 volt clutch motors go for about $100, or so, shipped. They are heavy. Servo motors are lighter and very easy to control over a wide range of speeds. They cost about $115 plus shipping. If the machine will be kept and used for any leather sewing, a modern servo motor is recommended. Clutch motors are usually off to the races, unless you learn to feather the clutch. Keep in mind that your machine is self oiling and must spin fast, often, to distribute the oil to the ends of the wicks. The oil pan must be filled to the etched level inside the pan and the pickup filter kept free of debris. By spin fast I mean well over 2500 rpm, or pedal down. Some folks do this to wind bobbins and before a day's work with the machine.
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You can replace the motor with a new servo motor. That will give you a wide range of speeds. But, it has a sump pump and is built to be run at about 4,000 rpm, or stitches per minute. This works out to maybe 60 stitches per second, plus or minus 6. At its maximum stitch length it will move along at just under one foot per second. The thread handling capacity is perhaps #92 bonded, but more likely, #69. These machines normally sew with cotton or polycore thread, not bonded nylon. The presser foot lifts to about 5/16 inch and sews about 1/4 inch of material, or so. The needle system is made for garment sewing, using cotton, polyester and denim cloth. It will have trouble going over seams because of its basically flat foot.
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Sewing Machine For Leather Cow Hide
Wizcrafts replied to penelope's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Folks, the poster is in Great Britain and pays for things in Pounds Sterling, not dollars. -
$1200 Sewing Machine Budget, What Would You Buy?
Wizcrafts replied to peterm's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
The DNU-1541s is a scaled down, pro-sumer version of the flagship LU-1508NH. The specs can be found at http://www.juki.co.jp -
How Do I Determine Which Machine Would Be Best.
Wizcrafts replied to deborah195412's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I forgot to mention that both the 29-4 and 29k70 use the tiny Singer #8604 bobbins. They are about the diameter of a US dime and as tall as three dimes stacked together. These bobbins don't last very long before running out of thread. Most cobblers and vest patch installers use #69 thread in them and only sew very short distances.