Wizcrafts

Why don't you advertise it for sale in the Marketplace section of the forum, under Sewing Machinery

Leather Machine Company (Cobra brand sewing machines), one of our supporting dealers, is located in California. They often have used machines in stock, or know where to get them. Their toll free number is 866-962-9880. For 1/4 inch stack of leather, you will probably need to use #92 (Tex 90) thread, with a #20 needle. Make sure that whatever machine you look at, that it can handle that size thread and needle (read the specs).

It's the black thread acting like a spring!

Is the scarf in the needle facing to the right? Is the needle all the way up inside the needle bar? Is it threaded correctly on top, with the thread well inside the upper butterfly tension disks?

I usually buy my leather from Thoroughblood (a.k.a. Thoroughbred), or W&C. My last order was 2.5 - 3.5 ounce motorcycle seat /chap leather from Springfield Leather and it is awesome. I would call it 99.9% usable. The bridle leather backs I get from W&C are absolutely top grade and make hi-end belts, with a supple, waxed grain feel. Thoroughbred is only one step below them, with a slightly duller finish, but has longer hides. When I need the longest backs, I buy from TB. I am getting up to 108 inches on some recent bridle leather orders from TB.

Loose thread and easy to remove knots are also caused by using a needle that is larger than called for. For instance, if you are sewing with #138 bonded thread, a #22 or #23 needle is usually the best choice. A #22 produces a smaller hole and tighter knots. But, if you ran out of #22 and 23 needles and had to use a #24 or #25, the hole would be way too big and the knots would pull out a lot easier than if the smaller needle was used. If the thread/needle sizes are already correct, then the top or bottom tension is wrong. Look to see where the knots are sitting. Ideally, they are buried well inside the leather. If the knots are visible on the bottom, reduce the bobbin tension a little. If this helps, increase the top tension to raise the knots into the center of the material. If the knots are closer to the top, reduce the top tension, or increase the bobbin tension.

Industrial sewing machines do not use home style needles. Industrial needles are totally round at the top, whereas home needles have a flat side to align them inside the needle bar. You must read how to properly align the eye and scarf of the needle and make sure the top is fully seated in the bar. Needle size depends on thread size, top and bottom. Your soft leather may be fine if sewn with #69 or #92 bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread. You should use a leather point needles only for leather. Use a #16 or #18 needle with #69 thread, or a #18, #19, or #20 needle with #92 thread (same sizes on top and bobbin). The needle "system" is determined by the make and model of the machine you buy. The system is determined by several factors involving the diameter of the upper shank, length from shank top to top of eye, length of eye opening, and overall length. There are also different types of leather points. First get your machine, then worry about needles, bobbins and cases and oil. Four thicknesses at what thickness per layer? One sixteenth of an inch? 3/32 inch? If the total thickness exceeds 5/16 inch, some non-walking foot machines may not handle it well, if at all. It would be best to find a machine for sale and take your leather there, to see how it handles your work. You may have several disappointments before you find the right machine.

Those plates look really nice, Leatherkind! I tried grinding the bottom of my stainless steel stirrup plate and couldn't remove enough steel to allow the feed dog to move freely. I almost cut right through the right edge! I still have to drop the feed dog to use it. It is probably going to snap under a heavy load. I have ideas for better plates and maybe your plastic parts can be models for a high-end Lapeer Michigan metal shop I have business dealings with. They can scan/copy a prototype part into the $10,000 CAD program they use and have several huge Haas computer driven milling machines that run constantly.

Perhaps a needle feed industrial machine, equipped with an accessory roller foot, will do the soft leather work. Then, switch back to a standard steel foot for the satin and broadcloth. A walking foot machine will eat up the satin and light fabrics. A straight stitch machine will not feed the leather properly, unless it is converted into a roller foot system machine. A needle feed machine keeps the layers together as the needle pulls the material for each stitch. These machines must have a presser foot with a long slot down the middle, to allow the needle to move forward and backward. Juki makes great needle feed machines.

Problem: top thread lifts out of center of top tension disks, causing thread knots and loops to appear under the bottom layer.. Solution: You might want to try what I did to keep the thread inside the top tension disks, if they have a pin on the right side holding them in position. Take your top thread out of everything on the machine. If you have a top post, ur a 3 hole guide, loop around it as needed to get a smooth pull off the thread stand and spool. Then feed the thread under the pin on the right side of the disks, then bend it sharply up and around the center of the disks (raise the presser foot to relieve the tension). Then feed it down to the check spring and through the take-up and guides. You will need to reduce your tension spring setting to compensate for the sharp turn, but the thread should stay inside the disks from now on.

I bought two from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines: the first in mid-2009 and the second in mid-2012. While they bolt into the 3 original holes perfectly, the shafts sit closer to the table. So, I needed to subtract one inch from the belt length, after accounting for the difference in pulley diameters. Since the SewSlow has a 2" pulley and the original had a 3" pulley, I ended up with a 2" shorter belt than the one on the clutch motor.

I buy all of my bonded nylon thread from Toledo, Ohio, from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. I use sizes 138 through 277, depending on the thickness to be sewn and strength required. For instance, for a rifle sling, #138 will do fine. A top stitched 8-10 ounce belt looks good with #207 thread (or 277 on top and 207 on the bottom). A serious holster usually needs #277 for the best strength per stitch, in the event of a struggle for the gun. Extra thick (3/4 inch) holsters and sheathes are best sewn with #346.

I got my machine for $500 cash, with a clutch motor. Then, I bought the SewPro 500GR (aka. Toledo SewSlow) servo motor for better slow speed control. I use it almost every day, for sewing on jackets and biker vests. Anything circular is easier to sew on a cylinder arm machine. Examine your pattern to see if it lends itself to a flatbed or free arm machine.

The Nakajima 280L is pretty much the same as my National 300N. They are standard upholstery grade walking foot machines, with large M style hooks. Basically, the capacities are 3/8 inch thickness sewn, with up to #207 bonded thread. They use system 135x16 and 135x17 needles.

If it is black thread, it may have been double-dyed, turning it into a coil spring.

Have you contacted our supporting dealers: Leather Machine Company, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and Techsew? They have ad banners that rotate on top of every page, as you reload the pages. Needles are also available from Keystone Sewing, who is a contributor to this forum.

Don't get rid of your Consew Billy. You may need it to sew vests.

Get a Bernina roller foot and some #69 bonded nylon thread. Or, try a Bernina Teflon foot. Either foot is better than the standard steel feet.

Almost any home sewing machine can be modified to sew about 8-9 ounces of leather by changing to a roller-equipped presser foot and threading it with #69 bonded thread. Use a #18 leather point needle, maximum, and increase the top pressure until the leather stops lifting with the ascending needle. The upper tension will need to be increased to pull the knots up. Sew slowly into veg-tan leather. Pre-lubricated bonded nylon thread is your friend in such situations. Have some appropriate tools on hand to re-position the needle bar or reset the timing, when they go out from the pounding and tugging.

I neglected to specify that you should loosen the bobbin tension screw until there is just a slight pull on the thread. This will give the top tension a little breathing room for adjustment. Ya see, if you screw the top spring all the way in, there is no room left for the disks to move apart and free the thread, when you raise the feet to remove the work. Also, insert the bobbin so it feeds backwards into the slot in the bobbin case. This helps prevent your tightly wound bobbins from unloading into the case as you speed up and slow down..

Bob, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines stocks 1 pound spools of thread in quite a few colors, in sizes 69 through 277, plus basic colors in #346. I got some #207 red-orange thread from him a while ago, which I use on Harley patches and jacket repairs.

Pre-load some tightly wound bobbins with #207. Buy pre-lubricated thread and use it top and bottom, Wind the top thread once around the post on top of the machine for added resistance. Set her up with a #24 leather point needle and screw down the pressure spring on the presser foot. You'll probably have to screw down the upper tension spring in all the way to pull the knots up into the bottom layer. Sew slowly, at about 1 or 2 stitches per second. If you are careful, you can turn out some pancake holsters on that machine, with #207, pre-lubricated thread. Don't expect the machine to perform flawlessly using this setup, or for very long. You will be pushing it beyond its 9th life.

I think the S2 button option determines the direction. You would button down hard, then button up to S2. There, you would button up or down to change the direction. Someone will correct me if I am mistaken, or if the S designations don't apply.

The reducer should be fitted as directly inline, laterally and vertically, with the machine's pulley as possible. However, the lateral position is more important, to minimize shake from an off-center pulley. You will probably have to relocate your bobbin winder assembly so it makes contact with the new belt position.

Four things affect the length of the drive belt, when changing motors, or motor types. Pulley diameter Pulley width inside Belt width Motor shaft horizontal position under table, in relation to original. A standard sewing machine setup uses a system 3L belt and pulleys. The top is 3/8 inches across, and the inside tapers inward. If the new motor has the same pulley diameter and 3L width, and if the shaft occupies the same horizontal position under the table, the original belt will fit. But, if the new motor has a smaller profile and its shaft is closer to the body, you may lose 1 inch of adjustment. If the motor pulley is also an inch smaller than the original, you lost another inch of belt.