Wizcrafts

Sounds like you are referring to the check spring that oscillates on the disk below the main tensioners. You might want to take the machine to a dealer for replacement and adjustment of the new spring.

Check out this chart - which has several different thread systems listed, including linen thread cord sizes.

SOLD Please delete this topic.

You need to know that on the sliding cam attached to the take-up lever barrel inside the trapeze, the words Dick and Dorf mean thick and thin. You set the position to "Dick" when you need extra thread on top for thick work, like over 1/4 inch. You'd set the lever to Dorf, for 1/8 inch sewing or less. 1/8 to 1/4 would use a medium position.

A bell knife skiver is the almost same as a band knife, with one difference. The band knife is a separate steel blade that lives inside the round bell. It is attached on the back to a hand cranked shaft that moves the blade in or out from the edge of the bell. One moves the blade closer or farther from the presser foot and wheel, depending on the thickness to be skived and type of material. The biggest advantage of the band knife is that the moving blade is what gets sharpened by the stones. When the blade gets too narrow to sharpen any more, you replace it with a new, relatively inexpensive blade. When a bell knife bell-blade wears out, the entire bell unit must be replaced and that will cost a lot more than a spring steel band blade.

Thanks for the links Ferg. I didn't see any band knife skivers like you have and I used to have. I do have a line on one from a member in California.

Thanks for that input Eric. I was hoping you would see this and respond.

Due to the nature of my leather business, I find that I once again need a band knife skiver. I want a steel drive wheel model, suitable for skiving 15 ounce saddle skirting on down to 2.5 ounce motorcycle seat leather. I don't care about single or double drive, as long as it feeds as designed. I will gladly buy a head only as I can come up with a half table and motor on my own. Must be in good working condition and have plenty of life left on the blade. Contact me via a PM on the forum with the details about what you have for sale, your asking price and where you are located. I have owned two power band knife skivers in the past and know about them. I am in Mid-Michigan.

Why don't you advertise it for sale in the Marketplace section of the forum, under Sewing Machinery

Leather Machine Company (Cobra brand sewing machines), one of our supporting dealers, is located in California. They often have used machines in stock, or know where to get them. Their toll free number is 866-962-9880. For 1/4 inch stack of leather, you will probably need to use #92 (Tex 90) thread, with a #20 needle. Make sure that whatever machine you look at, that it can handle that size thread and needle (read the specs).

It's the black thread acting like a spring!

Is the scarf in the needle facing to the right? Is the needle all the way up inside the needle bar? Is it threaded correctly on top, with the thread well inside the upper butterfly tension disks?

I usually buy my leather from Thoroughblood (a.k.a. Thoroughbred), or W&C. My last order was 2.5 - 3.5 ounce motorcycle seat /chap leather from Springfield Leather and it is awesome. I would call it 99.9% usable. The bridle leather backs I get from W&C are absolutely top grade and make hi-end belts, with a supple, waxed grain feel. Thoroughbred is only one step below them, with a slightly duller finish, but has longer hides. When I need the longest backs, I buy from TB. I am getting up to 108 inches on some recent bridle leather orders from TB.

Loose thread and easy to remove knots are also caused by using a needle that is larger than called for. For instance, if you are sewing with #138 bonded thread, a #22 or #23 needle is usually the best choice. A #22 produces a smaller hole and tighter knots. But, if you ran out of #22 and 23 needles and had to use a #24 or #25, the hole would be way too big and the knots would pull out a lot easier than if the smaller needle was used. If the thread/needle sizes are already correct, then the top or bottom tension is wrong. Look to see where the knots are sitting. Ideally, they are buried well inside the leather. If the knots are visible on the bottom, reduce the bobbin tension a little. If this helps, increase the top tension to raise the knots into the center of the material. If the knots are closer to the top, reduce the top tension, or increase the bobbin tension.

Industrial sewing machines do not use home style needles. Industrial needles are totally round at the top, whereas home needles have a flat side to align them inside the needle bar. You must read how to properly align the eye and scarf of the needle and make sure the top is fully seated in the bar. Needle size depends on thread size, top and bottom. Your soft leather may be fine if sewn with #69 or #92 bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread. You should use a leather point needles only for leather. Use a #16 or #18 needle with #69 thread, or a #18, #19, or #20 needle with #92 thread (same sizes on top and bobbin). The needle "system" is determined by the make and model of the machine you buy. The system is determined by several factors involving the diameter of the upper shank, length from shank top to top of eye, length of eye opening, and overall length. There are also different types of leather points. First get your machine, then worry about needles, bobbins and cases and oil. Four thicknesses at what thickness per layer? One sixteenth of an inch? 3/32 inch? If the total thickness exceeds 5/16 inch, some non-walking foot machines may not handle it well, if at all. It would be best to find a machine for sale and take your leather there, to see how it handles your work. You may have several disappointments before you find the right machine.

Those plates look really nice, Leatherkind! I tried grinding the bottom of my stainless steel stirrup plate and couldn't remove enough steel to allow the feed dog to move freely. I almost cut right through the right edge! I still have to drop the feed dog to use it. It is probably going to snap under a heavy load. I have ideas for better plates and maybe your plastic parts can be models for a high-end Lapeer Michigan metal shop I have business dealings with. They can scan/copy a prototype part into the $10,000 CAD program they use and have several huge Haas computer driven milling machines that run constantly.

Perhaps a needle feed industrial machine, equipped with an accessory roller foot, will do the soft leather work. Then, switch back to a standard steel foot for the satin and broadcloth. A walking foot machine will eat up the satin and light fabrics. A straight stitch machine will not feed the leather properly, unless it is converted into a roller foot system machine. A needle feed machine keeps the layers together as the needle pulls the material for each stitch. These machines must have a presser foot with a long slot down the middle, to allow the needle to move forward and backward. Juki makes great needle feed machines.

Problem: top thread lifts out of center of top tension disks, causing thread knots and loops to appear under the bottom layer.. Solution: You might want to try what I did to keep the thread inside the top tension disks, if they have a pin on the right side holding them in position. Take your top thread out of everything on the machine. If you have a top post, ur a 3 hole guide, loop around it as needed to get a smooth pull off the thread stand and spool. Then feed the thread under the pin on the right side of the disks, then bend it sharply up and around the center of the disks (raise the presser foot to relieve the tension). Then feed it down to the check spring and through the take-up and guides. You will need to reduce your tension spring setting to compensate for the sharp turn, but the thread should stay inside the disks from now on.

I bought two from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines: the first in mid-2009 and the second in mid-2012. While they bolt into the 3 original holes perfectly, the shafts sit closer to the table. So, I needed to subtract one inch from the belt length, after accounting for the difference in pulley diameters. Since the SewSlow has a 2" pulley and the original had a 3" pulley, I ended up with a 2" shorter belt than the one on the clutch motor.

I buy all of my bonded nylon thread from Toledo, Ohio, from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. I use sizes 138 through 277, depending on the thickness to be sewn and strength required. For instance, for a rifle sling, #138 will do fine. A top stitched 8-10 ounce belt looks good with #207 thread (or 277 on top and 207 on the bottom). A serious holster usually needs #277 for the best strength per stitch, in the event of a struggle for the gun. Extra thick (3/4 inch) holsters and sheathes are best sewn with #346.

I got my machine for $500 cash, with a clutch motor. Then, I bought the SewPro 500GR (aka. Toledo SewSlow) servo motor for better slow speed control. I use it almost every day, for sewing on jackets and biker vests. Anything circular is easier to sew on a cylinder arm machine. Examine your pattern to see if it lends itself to a flatbed or free arm machine.

The Nakajima 280L is pretty much the same as my National 300N. They are standard upholstery grade walking foot machines, with large M style hooks. Basically, the capacities are 3/8 inch thickness sewn, with up to #207 bonded thread. They use system 135x16 and 135x17 needles.

If it is black thread, it may have been double-dyed, turning it into a coil spring.

Have you contacted our supporting dealers: Leather Machine Company, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and Techsew? They have ad banners that rotate on top of every page, as you reload the pages. Needles are also available from Keystone Sewing, who is a contributor to this forum.

Don't get rid of your Consew Billy. You may need it to sew vests.