Wizcrafts

I almost bought a CB2500, but decided on a CB4500 (a 441 type machine), instead. If you are really set on getting one or the other of these machines, you need to understand how they feed and hold down the work. The CB2500 and Techsew 3650 are clones of the venerable Singer 45k of yesteryear. They use the same bobbins as the 45k and have the same shape. These machines move the work solely by means of aggressive feed dog teeth on the bottom. Unlike the 45k, they both have an optional reverse lever and now use system 328 needles. Also, their sewing capacity is higher, at 7/16 inch of leather. The thing you will have to deal with is the tooth marks on the bottom layer. Also, when you sew thick, dense leather, you'll have to screw down the presser foot pressure spring, adding tracks to the top layer (any machine will suffer from top tracks with thick dense leather) and dragging against the efforts of the feed dog. To counteract this drag, there is an optional large roller foot that replaces the standard double toe fixed foot. It allows the top layer to feed with less drag, but creates a unique serrated track in the top grain. Despite these issues, both are very useful sewing machines, capable of sewing with large diameter thread, into 7/16 inch or real leather. If the job is an item where the bottom is not normally seen, tooth marks won't matter. In cases where they do matter, they can be rubbed smooth with a modeling tool, or pounded smooth with a cobbler's hammer.

Dirtclod; Both of those machines only come in one arm length: 10.5 inches. There is no other option. You are thinking of the 441 clones, which come in 9, 16.5 and 25 inch arm lengths and have triple feed, along with a sewing capacity in excess of 3/4 inches. They are different animals.

There is not much future in buying an obscure sewing machine that lacks commonly available specs or user reviews. This goes doubly if the machine is being sold on eBay. I have seen a lot of obscure sewing machines and printing presses and have had some of them. Some were winners and some were losers.

I can't find any info about that model Chandler. It must be a very old machine.

What we need is a motor that applies a cork brake when you press down on the back of the pedal and hold it down with your heel, or by a spring on the motor's control arm (like clutch motors do). This would release as soon as you moved the pedal forward any amount. After about 1/2 inch (adjustable +/-) of free motion (like a clutch motor), the motor would begin to drive the belts. What I am describing combines the best mechanical features of a clutch motor with the full range speed control of a good servo motor.

I think it's an Adler 105 or 205 - something. Hard to tell from that angle, but I can't see the giveaway presser foot lifter ball handle on the top left of the head. The bull image suggests that it is a modified Ferdinand Bull machine, but it does have an Adler sticker on it. Also, no built in bobbin winder.

I do and don't like my brake, if that makes sense. I think I may adjust mine for more free play and leave it intact. That's how clutch motors work. Adjust the bolt for the amount of free play your foot is happy with, then feather the clutch, then fire on all cylinders.

I have opened one of my SewPro 500 (Now Toledo Sew Slow) servo motors and adjusted the mechanical brake. I'm fairly sure one could set it for more free play than normal. I also have a Family Sew servo and it has an actual cork-something brake that gets screwed into an actuator frame. I believe that the brake can be either adjusted outward, or removed. Don't quote me on this, because I haven't opened that motor up yet.

No, the DBx1 and DPx5 are different systems. The DPx5 is also known as a system 134 Pfaff garment machine needle. They are very close in size to the DBx1, but the top shank is wider (moving the point off-center) and the point sticks down farther from the bottom of the eye than the x1. Home style 130/705 is the wrong shank diameter (plus has a flat side) and length, although they are close in length to the x1. You can buy DBx1 (aka: 1738, 16x257 and more) online, or from most of our member dealers, in sizes 9 through 22. If you truly want to sew leather with the Brother machine, try doing so using a DBx1 size 18 (aka: 110), with #69 bonded nylon thread. If the holes are too noticeable, go down one size to a #16 needle. Stick to using the correct system needles for your needlebar and machine setup. If it calls for DBx1, use that system.

DBx1 is a needle "system" - not a size. These needles are quite short and are for use in garment sewing machines and sergers. Their short size leads to a short stroke in the needlebar, which means not too much clearance is available under the presser foot. If the other needle you tried is too long or too short, the loop will be in the wrong place and the hook will not pick it up. However, if you tried using a different "system" needle and by chance it is the same length (top of shaft to eye of needle) as the DBx1, you may have inserted it with the cutout above the eye facing the wrong direction. That cutout should face to the dead right and should be threaded from left to right. BTW: Your machine is a high speed garment sewing machine, for cloth, not leather. It is meant to sew with cotton or polyester or polyester and cotton dual core threads, typically is home sizes 40 or 50. A number 18 needle is fairly large for those threads.

You definitely need a compound feed walking foot machine, with a minimum of 3/8 inch capacity, with #207 thread. A Consew 206RB-5 will do this, but will be at its full capacity. I try to use my machines at less than full capacity, both for efficiency and longevity of the machine. There is a class of flat bed machines, called a 443, that are based on the 441 design, or the Adler 204 style. They can sew about 7/8 inch of leather or cloth, with #415 thread, which is more than you'll ever need. The machines have about 16 inches clearance between the needle and body. I owned an Adler 204 for a short time and they really can sew 3/4 inch, with what some folks would call rope, rather than thread. Then, one could buy a 441 clone, like this one and get the optional table attachment for it.

I have a 15-91 that I completely rebuilt. It will not properly feed heavy material, including Naugahyde and chap leather. It is the weight of the material that causes the problems, not the material itself. The problem is that in order to get enough tension to keep the material from lifting with the needle, a lot of foot pressure needs to be applied. This in turn holds back the top layer, dragging down the stitch length. Smaller pieces feed better than longer or wider pieces. I tried installing an even feed attachment, sold as a walking foot attachment, which is isn't. It slightly improved the feeding of vinyl and soft leather, but lost about 1/8 inch of clearance under the foot. Finally, the little machines are only equipped to tension up to #69 bonded thread. This is okay for wallet interiors, but not much else. If you are seriously considering a 15-91, bring your leather and thread with you and see if it sews properly and feeds evenly. I gave up trying to use my 15-91 and she sits quietly in her box, like a vampire resting in its native soil. Someday it may awake and sew again. Use your nose while testing a 15-91 or 201. If you smell burning insulation, run.

Wish I could just come over and buy some of your machines. Have you listed them in our For Sale > Machinery > Sewing... section yet? It's too bad about Ferdco going under. They produced some fine jump-foot leather stitchers. Ditto for Tony Luberto.

I'm glad that Darren and Ronny realized that I wasn't referring to them, or any of our other dealers who also maintain an eBay store.

I prefer a flatbed walking foot machine to sew vests and jackets. However, the arm holes and cuffs are easier to sew on a cylinder arm machine. You'll be better off if you can afford both a flat bead and a cylinder arm walking foot machine. But, if you can only afford one, go with the 2700, with the optional table attachment. Do not even attempt to sew leather jackets on a non-walking foot machine. A million little old lady zombies, with hairy legs, all wearing babushkas, will haunt you until you perish from wrong machine frustrations.

There is nothing wrong with telling other members how happy you are with your machine and the dealer you bought it from. No need to apologize. Our dealers stand behind their machines and take care of their customers. This sets us apart from some other forums, or some less concerned eBay dealers.

Please read CowboyBob's replies numbers 17 and 29, in this topic, on page 2. He is a Juki dealer and called Juki to find out if they have produced a model 441s (short arm) for sale in the USA, or anywhere else. According to Bob, in reply 29, their response was "no" - meaning that the seller, or his intermediate supplier, has installed a decal with the word "Juki" on some other brand of 9 inch 441 clone.

Kate; Keep a paper towel or rag under the presser feet over night

Sorry Dude, but Ferdco went out of business on June 5, 2012. They sold off all their machines and parts.

Are you just using the minimum pressure needed on the presser foot? If so, the stitch length can be changed by the weight of the belt as it folds over the arm, or by your hand pressure as you guide it. When I notice variances in stitch length, I tighten the pressure screw and support the strap for a few inches behind the head, with my left hand. This is where the table attachment can help you out. It keeps the belt or strap flat, removing gravity from the equation.

I find reverse to be iffy all the time. I feather the stitch length or reverse lever while lightly touching the throttle and watch the needle move back. I adjust the lever position until the needle is directly over the hole, then do a coup[le of back stitches in that position.

How do you intend to send the machine to Germany? If by ship, you cannot use solid real wood, because it might carry insect larvae to another continent. You should build a plywood or composite material box all around and under the machine, with about 4 inch high runners on the bottom to allow a fork lift to get under the box. You will pay a fee based on the cubic feet occupied by the box, not the weight. Fill the space inside with styrofoam or plywood supports and struts, to protect the cargo from shock, rolling on the sea and loading stresses. I learned that I could ship a 4 cubic foot box, containing a 500 pound Union Lockstitch machine, from a dock in Ohio to Stockholm, Sweden, for about $476. I found this on a shipping company's website, using their own cargo fee calculator. The price varies slightly depending on who fills out the paperwork. Delivery to the dock would be additional, unless you take it there on a truck.

I can stitch over the edge and back with any walking foot machine, with a reverse lever or reversing stitch lever..

A few months ago I was sewing together an ammo pouch. It consisted of 3 layers of 6-7 ounce veg-tan leather. My CB4500 sewed flawlessly until I rounded the last corner and headed into the stretch. With Cabbage in the head, bubblegum stitcking to the railing and toiletpaper wiping up the rear, Feedlebaum moved up and broke my #25 needle. Then another, then another! The 2 inches remaining had to be hand sewn using an awl and barbed needle. I concluded that there was rawhide inside the filler between the layers, on the problem run. Rawhide will do it to ya every time. If I had know it was in there I would have sewn the pouch at home, on my Union Lockstitch machine.

If that doesn't do it, move up to a #23 needle.