Wizcrafts

Make sure you are using the best size needle for the thread on top and bottom. This would be a #25 leather point for #277 thread, or a #24 with 277 on top and 207 in the bobbin. Make sure the thread pulls without binding, especially in the bobbin. Next, back off the pressure on the foot until the adjuster pops out. Test the presser bar to ensure that it moves up and down freely. Then screw the adjuster back on just enough to stay in its threaded hole. Try sewing a stitch or two. If the leather lifts with the needle, add more pressure. Do this until the leather no longer lifts with the needle. Make sure there is no corrosion, dye or oil on the bottom of the presser feet. The feed dog should only protrude about 1mm above the top of the slot in the throat plate. If there are still deep marks on top, check for sharp edges on the outer foot. If you have to screw the adjuster all the way down, you may be sewing into rawhide inside the leather.

I believe I once had a Singer post machine just like yours and I think it used system DBx1 (1738) needles.

Before anybody buys a sewing machine thinking it will sew up to 1/2 inch, see what needle system and thickness of presser feet it uses. If it uses system 190 (Pfaff needles, the (inside) foot would probably have to be less than 1/8 inch thick, with the alternating foot lift set to minimum. Or else, you would have to remove the thread guide from the bottom of the needle bar. A machine equipped with the regular system 135x16 needles will not sew 1/2 inch, unless you remove the feet. You don't really get into a 1/2 inch capable machine unless it uses systems 214 (328) or 794 (7x3) needles, or longer. The 45k/GA1 type machines use system 214/328 and the 441 clones and Adler 204 and 205 use system 7x3/794.

As JJ mentioned, the stitch length changes when you sew without the feed dog. What many don't expect is that the reverse stitches no longer match the forward stitches, at the old settings of the feet. I find that it is possible to dink with the point in rotation where the needle and inside foot makes contact with the leather, to almost balance out the differences. This is iffy at best, so I usually just watch where the needle is about to hit in reverse and pull down a little on the stitch lever to compensate if too long (reverse is usually longer w/o feeders).

The "patchers" are able to sew into places that no other machine will fit into. They sew in any direction, including up the arm. You can sew patches onto vests, or onto the arms of jackets. You can resew shoes and boots and even sew zippers into pockets with a patcher. As for the 441 machine, all of the dealers on this forum sell very good machines of equal caliber. You will get a good machine and the best after-sale service, at a reasonable price that was unheard of when I started sewing leather.

Back off the pressure spring until the material moves with the needle. Make sure you have just enough pressure to keep the leather from lifting with the needle. Also, use one size smaller thread in the bobbin. If you have 277 on top use 207 in the bobbin. Examine the slot in the throat plate for burrs or sharp edges and Emory them smooth.

Buy the CB4500. Then buy a patcher.

If the needle is hitting to the right of center, something is out of alignment, or you have the wrong "needle system." If the needle bar needle channel was cut for a wider shank needle than you have installed, the point will hit to the right of center. Installing the correct width and length needle will cure that. Assuming you are using the correct needle system, the direction of the cutout above the eye is critically important. Most (but not all) sewing machines must have this scarf cutout facing to the right. You should thread the needle from left to right. The manual should show the correct alignment of the needle.

The only holsters you can sew on a Juki, Consew, Chandler, or Singer walking foot flat bed upholstery grade machine are pancake holsters. You will be limited to a maximum size 207 thread. The large M or DNU/LU bobbin machines can hold enough #207 thread to do plenty of holsters. You machine will be pounding hard with #207 thread, a #24 needle and lots of foot pressure. For leather standard upholstery, use #138 thread, with a #22 or #23 leather point needle. If this is too large, go down to #92 thread, with a #19 or #20 needle.

Where is there anything mentioned about wanting to use it to sew holsters?

These machines are bottom fed, period. If you do anything to the feed dogs you might cause them to gouge the bottom, rather than move it for sewing. Sharp teeth ensure positive feed. These machines are meant for sewing items where the bottom is not normally seen, or which are not markable.

A Consew 206RB(-5), or Juki DNU-1541, or LU-1508 (for heavier materials) are all top of the line upholstery machines. All are able to sew leather, up to a maximum of 3/8 inch, with #138 to #207 thread. They use the commonly available system 135x16 leather point, and 135x17 round point needles. These needles are available in sizes up to a #25. The Consew has a large M style bobbin, while the Jukis have a larger double capacity hook and bobbin.

For those prices you can get a new walking foot machine, not a used one.

The 3650 is not a light weight sewing machine. It is designed for medium-heavy tack work, with heavy thread, which can be bottom fed without concern for the tooth marks.

This is the wrong machine for Velcro, with #69 thread, and under 7/16 inch. You will be better off with the Techsew model 2700 or Cowboy 227R, which have triple (compound) feed, easily tensions lighter to mid-weight thread (46 to 138) and sews into 3/8 inch.

Been there, done that. No way, Jose. In the words of Frank Zappa: "Forrrrrr get it." (Suzy Creamcheese) Get an industrial walking foot machine.

By force of habit and an abundance of caution, I usually install bobbins so they feed backwards through the slot. I believe that this practice started decades ago with high speed rotary shuttle machines, before anti-spin springs were introduced into bobbin cases. If the bobbins are loaded so that they feed in the same direction as the hook rotates, they tend to unload themselves and may even form knots. I always load them backwards on my rotary hook machines, even if they have anti-spin springs, to avoid having them unload all over the bobbin compartment.

Yes, there are welt/piping feet for the Consew. They are usually sold as type 111 feet. which is referring to the ancient Singer 111w155 walking foot machines.

For your second machine, consider a flatbed walking foot Consew 206RB-5, or equivalent other brand. They have all kinds of presser feet to do many different jobs, like edge binding, piping installation, zippers, etc. It is easier to control flat, long and wide projects on a large table top. Your third machine might be a "patcher" - which can sew into the tightest places (like inside a vest pocket). A patcher is invaluable in a professional leather shop.

Yes. Cut the gear to yield about 6 or 7 stitches per inch.

Are you sure you want to sew #69 bonded thread at only Are you certain that you want to sew 12 stitches per inch, or shorter, with #69 thread (and a #16 or 18 needle)? I would worry that these short stitches with nylon thread might filigree your material. This stitch length better suits #46 bonded thread, or #50 standard cotton thread, using a #12 needle.

Try 6 to 8 mm maximum (1/4 to 5/16 inch) and that is with no more than #92 thread (T90), or possibly even #138 for a very short distance. Also, since the feed is via the presser foot and it has sharp teeth, you will have tooth marks on the top side. The larger the needle and thread, the higher the pressure required to hold the leather down as the needle ascends. These machines are shoe and boot upper patchers. They are used by motorcycle people to sew patches onto club vests. They perform best when sewing into soft to medium temper leather.

I sure wish I had a hand-cranked curved needle sole stitcher!

Auto parts stores usually stock 4L, or 1/2 inch wide belts. These are too wide for sewing machine pulleys. As Bob said, look for sources of 3L, or 3/8 inch wide v-belts.

I have a Family Sew servo motor that can crawl when I want it to or run with the fastest. It has a multi position rotary switch on the front, making it simple to change the top speed on the fly. I use it on my Cowboy CB4500. I only had to change the pulley to a #614, which is 2.25 inches diameter, to get the range I wanted. I have to Sew Pro motors on my flat bed machines and love them.