Wizcrafts

I forgot that this topic was about your Pfaff machine, not the 31-15. Is your Pfaff supposed to use system 134, or 134-35 needles? There is a difference in length and geometry. I can use some 134 LR needles (from my previous Pfaff industrial machine) in the Singer 31-15. However, it cannot use 134-35 unless I raise the needle bar. Check your manual and make sure you use the correct Pfaff needle system. This might mean retiming the hook, or moving the needle bar. I have experienced movement of my 31-15's needle bar. I used that fact to change the set screw to a new one that I could really tighten down. The original was 96 years old and worn. As for modding your shuttle for #207 thread; opening up the clearances will allow #207 to pass around the bobbin case and the top tab on the case, then past the tapered end of the shuttle driver. But, the extra slack may mean that thinner thread skips at various speeds, but especially when sewing single stitches (stop/start), or hand-wheeling. The timing of the hook and spacing from the side of the needle (for #207) may render it ineffective for say #69 thread. If you do anything to the shuttle driver, like bending it, or any other parts on the shuttle assembly, have a spare on hand just in case.

Perhaps these folks have newer models of the 31-15 than mine. It was built in 1916, according to the serial number. It won't even sew with #138, much less 207 thread. When I tried to open up the clearance between the shuttle and shuttle driver, it began skipping stitches. The timing became erratic at best and the machine was not trustworthy under that configuration. Your mileage may vary. Another thing that is weird about the 31-15 machines has to do with variations in the angle of the bobbin case mounting tabs and the opening in the tab plate. I had to bend one tab in and the other out to keep the bobbin cases from spinning around. Again, your mileage may vary. The needle bar in my 31-15 does not accept #23 needles. It uses a thin stem needle meant for tailoring machines (e.g. 96k40), which line up dead center in the little hole in the throat plate. Anything else would hit the throat plate with the slightest deflection. I cannot use other needle systems without a lot of difficulty (been there, tried that). The biggest needle my machine uses without trouble is a #21. Finally, these 31-15s use a standard (small) bobbin. If you load it with #207 thread it may sew two belts. Aside from the difficulties, I like my 31-15 for tailoring, hemming clothing and lightweight leather items. I even use it to sew patches onto vests, right through the lining. I have converted my 31-15 into a roller foot machine, for better feeding of garment leather.

A buddy of mine had a Rex 280 something that had teeth on the presser feet and feed dog. It marked up the leather pretty badly, but fed like a SOAB.

Bonded nylon.

#207 thread in a Singer 31-15? I am barely able to get #92 thread around the bobbin case and shuttle (it snaps noticeably as it passes the top of the bobbin case). The slack in the shuttle driver would have to be tremendous to pass #207 thread. This would make for unreliable timing as the position of the hook varied with rotational speed and top thread tension changes.

Trox; I run all of my top thread through a lube pot containing liquid silicon. It helps maintain top thread tension, lubricates the inside of the holes and cools the needle. The silicon is clear and does not appear to discolor natural veg-tan leather at all. Ditto for the clear oil I use to lubricate the machine.

"system DPX17" indicates the overall geometry of the needle, not the diameter of the business end. There is no #17 needle. Many "systems" have 17 in their designation, such as: 135x17. Needle "sizes" relate to the diameter of the shaft. A #18 needle in any system has the same basic diameter where it passes through the material. There may be variations in the scarf cutout, or the size or shape of the eye, but the basic diameter will be the same for most that claim to be a #18. The basic rule for needle sizes is to use the needle that allows the thread to flow smoothly, through the eye, without binding. If you hold a threaded needle with the ends of the thread between your hands, then tilt one end up, the needle should move freely, but not sloppily. If you are going to sew a 1/2 inch saddle pad, I would use at least a #22 needle with #138 thread. I would also test the machine in advance to see if the bottom of the needle bar hits the top of the presser foot, at this height. Most standard industrial machines with typical needle systems, cannot sew that much thickness. You are probably going to have to move up to a CB2500 type machine to do this work. It handles thick thread and almost 1/2 inch of leather, webbing, etc.

I have never seen a #17 needle. I have seen #16 and #18. If you have #16 needles, the maximum thread size in bonded nylon or bonded polyester is #69 (T70) thread, sewn into thin leather, or denim. If you have #18 needles, they are good for thicker denim, vinyl or 1/8" thick leather, using #69 thread. If your machine can tension heavier thread, like #92 (T90), a #20 needle is just right (in my experience).

I am trying to find a set of three round, checkered bevelers by Craftool USA. The tool numbers are: B262, B263 and B264. I already have the set of smooth round bevelers. I am hoping someone has a spare heavy duty Neva Clog stapler and a few boxes of heavy staples to spare. I won the light duty model that uses type A1000 staples and they are somewhat weak and short, for securing belt keepers. The heavy Neva staples are about 1/16 inch thick and I think 5/16 inch long. The light duty A1000s are about 1/64" thick, like regular clipper staples.

The Singer 241-13 is not meant for sewing leather at all. It is a very high speed garment machine, targeted at garment factories. It has an oil pump that requires a high rpm to distribute the oil to all moving parts. That said, you can only hope to use #92 thread in that machine. It can be slowed down by changing to a servo motor. Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (866-362-7397) sells the Toledo Sew Slow, which is a rebranded SewPro 500 GR. I have two of these motors and love them for the wide range of pedal control.

I use my walking foot Cowboy CB4500 for all of the holsters and gun belts I and my partner make in our shop. Most of them end up being between 1/4 and 1/2 inch thick and are sewn with #277 thread. You cannot use this size thread in anything less than a full blown heavy duty leather harness stitcher. Some people sew holsters with #207 thread. This can be used in beefed up upholstery grade walking foot machines, which are a couple steps down from my Cowboy. Or, one can use a bottom feed only CB2500/GA1-5 type machine, capable of sewing 7/16 inch with #277 thread.

He's telling you that factory branded parts for the Pfaff are astronomically priced. If the machine needs Pfaff parts. Most Pfaff machines use proprietary parts which you will be locked into buying, should any need replacing. You should ask the sellers to demonstrate their machines with bonded nylon thread, which you may have to bring with you, sewing into leather you bring along. However, some or all of them may already have bonded nylon thread on hand, and needles to match it.

Yes, a #24 needle is a good match for #207 bonded thread, especially black, springy thread. You might be able to use a #23 Schmetz or Pfaff needle, as long as it is a leather point needle.

I have converted my National walking foot machine to use system 190 needles. I have leather point (190 LR) needles in sizes 16 through 25. I even got a pack of #150 needles from Bob Kovar, which are perfect for #138 thread, top and bottom. Bob Kovar stocks most system 190 needles. They are made for certain Pfaff models. Using an undersize needle increases the thread tension requirements. One you install a #24 leather point needle the knots will rise on their own and you may be able to back off the top tension.

You should be using leather point needles. Increase the inside (if exists) and outside foot spring pressures until the lifting of leather is curtailed.

Jim, thanks for that explanation about altering stainless feet. I did a little sanding on my right toe foot and have ground down and polished a couple of my throat plates. It's good to know that this doesn't change the stainless properties. I intend to have some custom feet made to sew particular jobs and they will be cut from stainless steel also. I like the looks of chrome, but hate it when it starts to chip off. I was using the roller edge guide on my friend's Class 4 and the guide hit the right toe on an upstroke and chrome began flaking off of the roller. A stainless roller wouldn't have been damaged, or, could have just been buffed smooth.

I own a Cowboy CB4500 and am totally pleased with it. It sews just about anything I throw at it. I got mine with the full accessory pack and am glad I did. I was previously sewing for a friend, on his Cobra Class 4 and it is also a fine machine. These 441 clone machines are quite similar. The differences are in how the dealers set them up and adjust them and what you get with the machine. The Cowboy machines come with stainless steel feet and throat plates, allowing you to sew wet leather without discoloring it.

Back off your bobbin tension until it has a light but smooth pull. Back off the top disk tensions to get the knots right. Try using a #24 leather point needle.

I don't know. Why don't you call Bob Kovar and ask him? 866-362-7397.

Why don't you order your needles from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines? They have virtually every available system in stock. If not, they can usually get them.

A year ago, Art mentioned an SCR controlled servo motor that has full power at the slowest speeds, as well as at full speed. It is (made/marketed) by Sailrite. If you visit sailrite.com you will find a video demo of the MC-SCR motor in action.

I run all my top thread through the lube pot on top of my machine. I keep liquid silicon in it. The pot came with my machine (Cowboy CB4500) and the silicon lube came from Toledo Industrial. It doesn't mark the leather.

Black thread tends to be stiffer than white thread, affecting the position of the knots. Springy black thread tends to twist around posts, disks and thread guides, throwing off your tension settings. Smaller needles make smaller holes, increasing the tension needed to pull the knots up. You can rule your black thread in or out by replacing it with white thread of the same size, on top. If you find that white thread is better controlled, your alternatives are to use pre-lubricated black thread, and/or to run it through a lube pot filled with silicon or industrial sewing machine oil.

I suppose that the stirrup, or holster plates would let him get in close to the edge being sewn, but, the opposite side and its protruding 1/2 inch flange will be hitting the bobbin cover plate on the shuttle housing. This assumes sewing from the outside towards the gusset, rather than from inside the gusset. Flexibility of the purse will determine if the opposite side can be pushed out of the way enough to allow the sewn side to advance evenly.

I think what my associates are referring to is the Toledo Sew Slow, formerly called the Sew Pro 500GR, servo motor. It has a speed limiter knob on the back and a 2" pulley. The motor should bolt into the same three holes left from the clutch cargo motor. It has its own switch box, wires and cable cinches. I have two of them and love their wide slow to high speed range. What they also failed to mention, to somebody unfamiliar with who Bob Kovar is, is that he owns Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. The toll free number is 866-362-7397, during normal business hours, Eastern Time Zone. That's all I have to say about tha-at