Wizcrafts

A number 21 needle will only pass #105 thread, which is an odd size. You might be able to squeeze #138 through the eye, if it is tightly bonded. This is not what leather sewers consider as large thread. #138 is upholstery grade thread, or can be used to assemble wallet backs to interiors, or chaps, or leather jackets. It has 22 pounds breaking strength.

Tom; If I could edit your post I would. You need to remove your email address from your last replay. Think about email security and spammers trolling forums for fresh meat.

I have played around with the height of my Cowboy stitcher and finally settled on where I can sit on a bar stool and still reach the pedals. This lets me look down on the throat plate while seated. I did try eye level, but it was too uncomfortable.

Happy New Year Tor! and everybody else!!!

I always wanted to have a Luberto Classic, but couldn't afford it. The Union Lockstitch fell out of heaven and into my expando. But, if I could really have any machine I dreamed of, it would be a Campbell High Lift. Period.

I have. My Union Lockstitch machine is square feed, jump foot and needle feed. It is now made and serviced by Campbell-Bosworth, in Yoakum, Texas.

Others have gone that path and regretted it. Unless you or your Husband are already familiar with how industrial sewing machine tables are assembled and fitted to the machine head, don't go there. For the couple hundred more you spend on the table and motor, you could have simply bought a fully assembled, tested and setup Consew 206RB-5 from here.

That Jacks motor looks good in the video demonstration. It has all kinds of slow and fast speed control. I think it will allow you to sew very slowly if you want to, by backing off the floor pedal with your heel.

That is not a leather sewing machine. You may destroy it if you force it to sew through dense leather, of any weight.

Hold out for a newer walking foot machine, or an actual leather sewing machine. I have a huge Cowboy CB4500 leather stitcher that can sew over 3/4 inch of leather on holsters, with up to #415 thread. But, the last job I sewed on it I did with #92 thread, on a leather vest, applying patches. Before that I used it to sew a new pocket onto a pair of jeans. I routinely use it to edge stitch bridle leather belts, with #277 thread on top and #207 in the bobbin. My walking foot machine can sew with #138 thread on belts, vests and jeans, but can't sew holsters with 1/2 inch of welt between the layers, or sew anything with #277 thread.

The Juki 553 is a forward only (no reverse), straight stitch, bottom feed machine. It is capable of sewing suede or other soft leather, probably up to about 3/16 inch thickness. This would be with a #18 needle and #69 bonded nylon thread. You may have to convert it into a roller foot machine to feed two or more layers and keep them aligned. You will not have much luck sewing belts on this type of machine. It is a tailoring machine.

I also used to sew on an Adler long arm big bobbin patcher and it would give 5 to the inch into any thickness it could clear, with #138 thread, top and bottom.

I have type 7x3 needles in numbers 18 through 22 and type 794 in numbers 23 through 27. These needles fit a 441 or clone, or an Adler class 204 or 205. They cover thread sizes ranging from #69 through #415.

The 29-4 should be able to sew through your 9-10 ounce package, but the stitch length may be shorter than you want, depending on how loose the feed mechanism is. Set the stitch length adjuster all the way down, with the presser foot manually lifted with its lift lever. This will yield the longest stitch that machine can deliver. Also, loosen and slide the movable raise block on the leaf spring to the right, until it stops at the notch in the leaf spring. This increases the lift of the foot as it operates, which gives it a better chance at a longer stitch. Make sure the foot is securely screwed onto the presser bar.

The needle should not hit either foot. It should go through the center of the inside foot. The toe or toes of the outside foot should be aligned to face straight ahead, not hitting the inside foot. If the feet are properly aligned, but the needle is able to make contact with the side of one or both feet, either the needle bar has come out of position (at the top of the pendulum), or the needle itself is bent.

This is one kind of sewing machine commonly used to make holsters. Here is another heavy duty sewing machine that can make just about anything.

The feed dogs have teeth on the class 370 and are smooth on the class 374.

I was serious about using my Cowboy as a punching machine. I just didn't tell the whole story. The #27 needle pokes an impressive hole in the leather, but not one quite big enuf to push a rivet through (from the bottom). I still have to open the holes from the bottom with my modeling tool, or an awl. What the machine does best is to punch the holes equally spaced, at the distance from the edge set by my edge guide. This in itself saves me a lot layout time. Opening up the holes goes a lot quicker since they are already there, just undersized. Some shops have the room and funds to buy a hole punching machine. Others don't. I fit the second category. That's all I have to say about tha-at.

The 29-4 is no good for sewing holsters. It has the tiniest bobbin imaginable and is not much good with anything bigger than #92 thread. The sewing capacity of that machine is only about 1/4 inch. They usually lose stitch length as the thickness increases. Unless the feed mechanism is in factory mint condition, the stitch length at 1/4 inch might be only 7 or 8 to the inch. That machine is best used to sew shoe and boot uppers, or sew patches onto vests.

I sometimes use my Cowboy CB4500 to punch holes for small rivets in belts and wristbands. I use the largest needle I can get, which right now is a #27 diamond point. I set the stitch length to maximum, which is about 2 to the inch. I am thinking about having a bigger awl made to fit my machine, which would only be limited by the hole in the inside foot. It would have to be short enough to not hit the hook, but long enough to penetrate the leather. A 3/32" diameter awl should do the trick.

Also, if you are friends with Michael Weston, check for a timer counting down on a bomb! They make a ticking noise.....

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and other dealers sell the roller foot conversion kits. I used to use 1725 RPM clutch motors, until I discovered the SewPro 500GR, which is now sold as the Toledo Sew Slow. I have one on my 31-15 and another on my flat bed walking foot machine. They are easy to control at any speed.

I have a 90+ years old Singer 31-15 that I rebuilt. I finally decided that it worked best on leather with a roller foot drive. These are three piece conversion kits that include a single row feed dog, matching throat plate and a flip-up ball bearing roller wheel. The machine accepts up to #92 bonded nylon thread. To use the 31-15 with cloth would require the removal of the roller foot parts and reinstallation of a flat foot, multiple row feeder and throat plate.

Your only hope for leather-specific sewing parts for a Juki TSC 441 is to ask our dealers if they are willing and able to sell you extra parts off a Cowboy, Cobra, or Techsew 441 clone. These would include the throat plates, harness presser feet, smooth feed dog, edge guides and a speed reducer, if you didn't get one with the machine. You will also need spare bobbins, and leather point needles in the sizes required for the thread you will be using.

There is a spring on the opening side of the pop open bobbin case. The bobbin thread goes backwards through a slit in the case, then under the opening in the spring and out. The spring is secured and adjusted by a screw on one end. There may also be a set screw inside a hole, just forward of the adjuster screw. You would have to loosen the stop screw to adjust the tension screw, then tighten it back to keep the tension from changing on its own. I usually leave my stop screw just finger tight, so I can still change the bobbin tension screw as needed. I change thread sizes every day, so locking down the bobbin tension screw is more of a hassle than a benefit. The lock screw is more useful to folks who use just one size and brand of thread in the bobbin.