Wizcrafts

Back off the pressure spring until the material moves with the needle. Make sure you have just enough pressure to keep the leather from lifting with the needle. Also, use one size smaller thread in the bobbin. If you have 277 on top use 207 in the bobbin. Examine the slot in the throat plate for burrs or sharp edges and Emory them smooth.

Buy the CB4500. Then buy a patcher.

If the needle is hitting to the right of center, something is out of alignment, or you have the wrong "needle system." If the needle bar needle channel was cut for a wider shank needle than you have installed, the point will hit to the right of center. Installing the correct width and length needle will cure that. Assuming you are using the correct needle system, the direction of the cutout above the eye is critically important. Most (but not all) sewing machines must have this scarf cutout facing to the right. You should thread the needle from left to right. The manual should show the correct alignment of the needle.

The only holsters you can sew on a Juki, Consew, Chandler, or Singer walking foot flat bed upholstery grade machine are pancake holsters. You will be limited to a maximum size 207 thread. The large M or DNU/LU bobbin machines can hold enough #207 thread to do plenty of holsters. You machine will be pounding hard with #207 thread, a #24 needle and lots of foot pressure. For leather standard upholstery, use #138 thread, with a #22 or #23 leather point needle. If this is too large, go down to #92 thread, with a #19 or #20 needle.

Where is there anything mentioned about wanting to use it to sew holsters?

These machines are bottom fed, period. If you do anything to the feed dogs you might cause them to gouge the bottom, rather than move it for sewing. Sharp teeth ensure positive feed. These machines are meant for sewing items where the bottom is not normally seen, or which are not markable.

A Consew 206RB(-5), or Juki DNU-1541, or LU-1508 (for heavier materials) are all top of the line upholstery machines. All are able to sew leather, up to a maximum of 3/8 inch, with #138 to #207 thread. They use the commonly available system 135x16 leather point, and 135x17 round point needles. These needles are available in sizes up to a #25. The Consew has a large M style bobbin, while the Jukis have a larger double capacity hook and bobbin.

For those prices you can get a new walking foot machine, not a used one.

The 3650 is not a light weight sewing machine. It is designed for medium-heavy tack work, with heavy thread, which can be bottom fed without concern for the tooth marks.

This is the wrong machine for Velcro, with #69 thread, and under 7/16 inch. You will be better off with the Techsew model 2700 or Cowboy 227R, which have triple (compound) feed, easily tensions lighter to mid-weight thread (46 to 138) and sews into 3/8 inch.

Been there, done that. No way, Jose. In the words of Frank Zappa: "Forrrrrr get it." (Suzy Creamcheese) Get an industrial walking foot machine.

By force of habit and an abundance of caution, I usually install bobbins so they feed backwards through the slot. I believe that this practice started decades ago with high speed rotary shuttle machines, before anti-spin springs were introduced into bobbin cases. If the bobbins are loaded so that they feed in the same direction as the hook rotates, they tend to unload themselves and may even form knots. I always load them backwards on my rotary hook machines, even if they have anti-spin springs, to avoid having them unload all over the bobbin compartment.

Yes, there are welt/piping feet for the Consew. They are usually sold as type 111 feet. which is referring to the ancient Singer 111w155 walking foot machines.

For your second machine, consider a flatbed walking foot Consew 206RB-5, or equivalent other brand. They have all kinds of presser feet to do many different jobs, like edge binding, piping installation, zippers, etc. It is easier to control flat, long and wide projects on a large table top. Your third machine might be a "patcher" - which can sew into the tightest places (like inside a vest pocket). A patcher is invaluable in a professional leather shop.

Yes. Cut the gear to yield about 6 or 7 stitches per inch.

Are you sure you want to sew #69 bonded thread at only Are you certain that you want to sew 12 stitches per inch, or shorter, with #69 thread (and a #16 or 18 needle)? I would worry that these short stitches with nylon thread might filigree your material. This stitch length better suits #46 bonded thread, or #50 standard cotton thread, using a #12 needle.

Try 6 to 8 mm maximum (1/4 to 5/16 inch) and that is with no more than #92 thread (T90), or possibly even #138 for a very short distance. Also, since the feed is via the presser foot and it has sharp teeth, you will have tooth marks on the top side. The larger the needle and thread, the higher the pressure required to hold the leather down as the needle ascends. These machines are shoe and boot upper patchers. They are used by motorcycle people to sew patches onto club vests. They perform best when sewing into soft to medium temper leather.

I sure wish I had a hand-cranked curved needle sole stitcher!

Auto parts stores usually stock 4L, or 1/2 inch wide belts. These are too wide for sewing machine pulleys. As Bob said, look for sources of 3L, or 3/8 inch wide v-belts.

I have a Family Sew servo motor that can crawl when I want it to or run with the fastest. It has a multi position rotary switch on the front, making it simple to change the top speed on the fly. I use it on my Cowboy CB4500. I only had to change the pulley to a #614, which is 2.25 inches diameter, to get the range I wanted. I have to Sew Pro motors on my flat bed machines and love them.

I like that roller setup for the lifter chain. I may try to build something like it for my 4500.

At least one of our member-dealers sells those little paddle springs that fasten inside the needle bar on a patcher. I bought some from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. They are inexpensive and can probably be mailed to Sweden, along with the correct screws to mount them.

I switch to a right toe outside foot when I sew close to shaped parts of holsters. This way the outer foot does not hit the shaped leather. If the inside foot is too large in front, grind it down a bit.

To my knowledge, there are no welting feet made for the 441 type machines. You will need to have a set made by a local machine shop. Better yet, buy an extra inside foot and grind down the outer left side. Use it with the right toe presser foot to sew close to the welt.

It depends on what it is worth to you to have it. These were really good machines in their day and are still in use in some factories. Go try it out and see how loose or tight the feed mechanism is and how well it sews on your own material. Just be aware that it does not have a reverse lever. That said, for a few hundred more you might find a newer Consew or Chandler, with reverse and a large bobbin.