Wizcrafts

Your hand sewing thread is about the equivalent of #207 (3 cord) or #277 (4 cord) bonded (nylon or polyester) machine thread. Bonded Polyester is a tad softer than the same size of nylon, forming knots more easily, and is UV resistant. The vast majority of industrial sewing machines cannot handle #277 thread at all. You need to look into an Adler 205-374, or clone, or a (Juki) 441 clone. An actual Juki 441 is not shipped equipped to sew leather; it needs a lot of modifications. The 441 clones, like Cowboy, Cobra and Techsew, as sold by our dealers, have been modified for leather work. All of our advertising dealers can ship a machine to you by ocean freighter. As for machine sewing with linen thread, it is a crap shoot. Pre-waxed thread gums up the guides and tension disks and clogs the needle. Post-waxed (with liquid wax) 3 or 4 cord linen thread tends to break after so many stitches. Mind you, I have not tried using 5 or 6 cord Irish linen in my Cowboy CB4500, as I have none at this time. But, the 3 and 4 cord threads have problems after running through the liquid in the wax pot. The machine you choose must have large needle capacity. You will be using needles ranging in size from metric 180 and up. I usually sew with #277 thread and it requires a #25 (200) needle. This is the standard factory needle on an Adler 205. It would be the minimum size needed to sew with 4 cord (pre or post waxed) linen. However, thick bonded threads need a certain amount of thickness of leather to form a properly positioned lockstitch. Anything thinner than about 9-10 ounces will give the machine trouble placing the knots inside the leather. We usually use thinner thread, like #138 or #207, on thin leather, like 6 to 8 ounces. The difference between hand sewing with two needles and machine sewing is that the hand thread forms daisy loops - over and under the leather. There are no knots between the layers. Most sewing machines form a lockstitch, with a knot formed inside the material. The top thread gets pulled around a bobbin, capturing the bobbin thread and pulling it up, forming a wrap around knot. The thickness and toughness/softness of the thread affects these knots. Black bonded thread tends to be stiffer from multiple doses of black dye, so it needs more tension and more thickness to hide the lockstitch knots. Bottom line is, you'll always be able to use thicker linen thread when you hand sew with two needles (daisy loops), than the bonded threads required by industrial sewing machines (lock stitches). Linen (glazed or waxed) bends much easier than bonded nylon, which bends a little harder than bonded polyester. Most sewing machines don't like waxed thread, unless you are very careful and clean the guides, disks and needle after each use. Note, there are some machines that were made to use waxed linen thread. They are horribly expensive, very heavy and usually ancient (but rebuilt). Brands that I have used are Union Lockstitch and Campbell-Randall. Also, some shoe sole stitchers can sew around the perimeter of leather goods, using waxed linen thread. Prices A new Adler 205 might cost you several years income. You can buy a 441 clone from the USA and have it shipped to you for half the cost, landed.

The foot lift can be modified by the owner. However, foot lift is tied into top thread disk release. If your machine has adjuster nuts over/under the presser bar, fastening to the lift plate, adjust them to allow the foot to lift higher before disengaging the disks. Once you reach the height where the hand lift lever engages, there is no more lift to be had. I suspect that most tweaked Singer patchers will max out at just under 3/8 inch of lift, allowing you to sew about 5/16 inch. The machine needs clearance to let the foot pull the work, then return to its starting position. If you need higher lift and sewing capacity, buy an Adler 30-70, or a newer Claes patcher. That Adler actually sews 3/8 inch and the Claes manages almost 1/2 inch.

You'll get better results if you run one size smaller thread in the bobbin than on top, with that machine, if you go above size 207. If you limit the size of the top thread to #277, and use #207 in the bobbin, it shouldn't give you any trouble. You will need leather point needles, in sizes 22, 23, 24 and 25. This covers a range of thread from 138 through 277. Note, the feed system is not a real walking foot. It has a spring loaded top foot that simply follows the work backwards, until the feed dog drops. At that point, it snaps forward for the next stitch. You should read this topic about the Singer 132k6 for a better understanding of its capabilities and limitations.

Juki LU-1508NH

#138 thread, top and bottom = #22 or #23 leather point needle (for leather). If a #22 leaves knots visible on the bottom, move up to #23. Increasing the size of the thread usually requires either loosening the bobbin tension, or increasing the top tension. But, moving up to a larger needle can offset this. If the larger needle leaves too large of a hole, the knots will be able to slip up and down. If that happens, move down to the smallest needle that freely passes the top thread, then increase the top tension to bring the knots up Depending on the density of the leather, increasing your needle size may also require more spring pressure adjustment on the presser feet, to prevent the leather from lifting with the ascending needle and thread.

You can't beat a straight top thread path and minimum hard turns for smooth sewing! I started using pre-lubricated thread some months ago and it more or less does away with the need for silicon in the lube pot. However, I still run some other threads through the lube if their bondings aren't up to snuff, or they are too dry. I do run all brands of thread through the lube if the needle is running smoking hot, which happens at about 8 to 10 stitches per second, sewing medium temper leather (production runs). Once turn around the bottom post is okay, as long as you aren't using it to add much more top tension. One turn also makes it easier to extract the thread when you fully lift the presser feet with the floor pedal. Note, this means that the top tension disks do most of the work on the top thread.

Red Cent; Please check the spool of thread for flip-overs, twists, or possibly the thread winding under other windings as it feeds off the spool.. Follow it through the top guide posts. Make sure you feed it through the little loop in front of the top tensioner. BTW: that steel loop should sit as low as possible in relation to the axis of the tension disks. The greater the angle, the better the feeding around the disk axle. I have experienced too much check spring (the spring wrapped around the bottom disks that you must feed through on the way up to the take-up lever) tension over-riding the top tension, after reducing the top tension setting to very light. There is a nut, or a set screw on the opposite side of the housing for the bottom disk axle. Loosen that nut or set screw and turn the split shaft whichever way reduces the spring pressure, while still allowing it to move up and down, then lock it back down. Last, open the bobbin case and blow out any thread fragments. Ditto for the shuttle and shuttle race.

Eric; The Janome New Home came to me with the Pfaff serger and it was almost seized. After freeing it up and getting it back into order it sews like a champ. It even does a couple of small alphabets, like for names on shirt cuffs. The patterns can be mirrored, stretched or widened, making for some interesting layouts. Of course, the machine cannot sew over 3/16 inch without great difficulty, nor use anything stronger than B69, but it wasn't meant to.

Right now I have the following industrial machines in use. Cowboy CB4500 heavy leather stitcher (w/servo) National 300N walking foot machine (w/servo) Singer 139 long body, walking foot machine (w/servo) Singer 29k172 long arm, big bobbin patcher (foot treadle) Singer 31-15 straight stitch machine (w/servo) Fortuna bell knife skiver (clutch motor) Pfaff 4 thread, two needle portable serger Additionally, I own the following, fully functional domestic sewing machines, which I sometimes use. 1921 Singer 66 Red Eye mounted onto a table with knee lever speed controller 1942 Kenmore Rotary Deluxe, mounted on a table with a knee lever controller 1970s Kenmore 158.142 cam driven multi-function sewing machine, Does 3/4 inch embroidered letters. 1980s Janome New Home electronic sewing machines, for pattern stitching and various zig-zags. Mint, 1953 Singer 15-91, with rebuilt motor. Near mint, 1929 Singer 99, with a removable knee lever speed controller, in a bentwood case.

Try straightening out the top thread path. If you have it wrapped around a top post, change to inline feed through instead. Make sure that the starting piece of bobbin thread is cut off flush with the side of the bobbin. If a little nib is protruding, it might interfere with the feeding of the bobbin. It is also a good idea to test the bobbin thread after loading it. Pull a couple of feet and make sure it pulls evenly, without sudden lumpiness. Dip the bobbin thread in your lube and see if it helps. You should be able to pull the top thread through all the guides and tensioners, with the presser feet fully lifted. If the thread gives sudden resistance, find out where it is twisting, or binding. Black thread is the worst offender. Clean all guides along the top thread path.

I use either my walking foot machine, or my Singer 31-15 to sew watch bands. Both have optional presser feet that have edge guides on the right side. I choose the edge guide that places the stitch line very close to the edge and sew around the bands. Normally, I use #69 bonded thread, through a #16 leather point needle, for such thin work close to edges. A Consew 206RB-5 is a very good walking foot machine, suitable for your work.

Your Chandler or Consew uses the same industrial Lilly Oil as most other industrial sewing machines. You can buy it in 4 oz bottles, quarts and gallons from most industrial sewing machine dealers, including Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

That machine (an Adler 205 clone) will sew belts and holsters all day. Be sure you oil it regularly with industrial sewing machine oil. Use leather point needles, type 794, which are available in sizes 23 and up. The machine is best used with thread sizes 138 and larger, with #277 being the preferred size, top and bottom. It will sew from about 6 ounces up to about 3/4 inches.

The Juki LU-1508 has the highest walking height of all the upholstery class machines, except for certain Pfaff models, It does this by using system 190 needles and has been built to allow the feet to alternate higher when walking over thick material. I modified my National 300N to use that longer needle system and found it necessary to file out some iron off the back of the head to accommodate the higher lift of the feet. I also found that these needles bend and break much more often than the regular system 135x16 and 135x17 needles.

Perhaps you should look into a post machine. They are used for shoe uppers, Mocs, caps and hats and such.

Here is where you can look up the date of manufacture for Singer sewing machines

The Singer 111(letter)156 is the only sub-class that has a reverse lever.

The trick I use is to reduce the bobbin tension to a minimum for a smooth pull. I keep the top thread path as straight as possible, rather than doubling around upper posts. Then, I back off the tension on the lower disk, so the spring is barely touching the disk. Next, I adjust the top tension disks to balance the stitch knots. When I lift the foot, I press all the way down. If you do it right, you can pull the threads out with the feet up, but pull straight back.

This forum is for discussing leather sewing machines. Your for sale ad should go into the Marketplace, under Machinery - Sewing and Stitching

If you change to a 2 inch pulley, the original belt will be 2" too long. You should locate the length that is stamped on the existing belt (e.g. M42, 3L43, M44) and buy one that is 2 inches shorter. The v-belts used on industrial sewing machines are type 3L. A Teflon foot (with a long slot between the left and right toes) will work fine until you forget to keep it lifted after you pull the material out and drop it down on the teeth of the feed dog (personal exp). As long as you don't let the feeder teeth hit it, this is your cheapest solution. I would buy a couple so you have a spare when you forget to keep it off the teeth. I am looking at a roller equipped foot I bought for my Singer 31-15. It has SPK-3 etched into the side where it mounts to the presser bar. There is a roller inside the front of both the left and right toes, plus four rollers across the middle of the back, behind where the needle stops. It has a long slot to work with either a needle feed or a fixed needle straight stitch machine. I probably paid under $20 for it. While the feed dog teeth can't hurt it, the rollers being lower than the bottom of the foot prevent all of the foot from making contact with the material. This allows some materials to lift with the ascending needle, causing puckering or even occasional skipped stitches. The roller foot conversion comes in two sizes. The smaller wheel lets you get in closer to the needle and lets you turn sharper corners. They work very well on soft and medium temper leather (e.g. shoe uppers, vests, zippers in leather jackets, thin belts, et al).

A servo will allow you to dial down the speed, especially if it has a 2" pulley, rather than the 4" that you probably have now. Garment workers usually sew at 30 to 50 stitches per second. Soft leather is best sewn under 15 stitches per second (-800 rpm). Veg-tan should not be sewn faster than about 9 or 10 per second (~600 rpm). That said, your machine may clear 1/4 inch of soft temper leather, but will need either a Teflon or roller foot to feed it evenly. There are both roller equipped presser feet and roller wheel conversion kits available.

Your square drive machine is not square driving, or else the needle is flexing too much. Check the needle feeding system for excessive slack. Make sure that the presser foot lifts completely off the leather until the feed motion comes to a halt. It must not be down as the needle is feeding.

You haven't listed your location in your profile. Where is this stuff located?

The needle feed I referred to is a straight stitch, bottom feed only machine. The needle pulls the material in sync with the feed dog. This system provides positive feed for light weight material that has few or no thick seams. These are production garment making machines that typically sew at 30 stitches per second or faster. Hence, the need for an oil pump and gasketed oil pan. Walking foot machines can be double or triple feed. Double feed involves the outside foot moving in sync with the feed dog, while the needle and inside foot only go up and down. These feet usually have aggressive teeth. Triple feed means the outside foot lifts and lowers as the inside foot and needle move in sync with the feed dog. Most leather sewers use a triple feed machine with smooth bottom feet. Needle feed garment machines are able to sew cloth and lining material without ripping it or getting it caught in the bottom needle slot. Normal straight stitch machines are only bottom fed, and have very small needle holes. A roller equipped or Teflon foot is a must for sewing leather or other sticky materials on a straight stitch, static needle machine. Walking foot machines tend to be harsher on light fabrics and linings. The feed dog is typically 1/4 inch wide, with an elongated or oval needle hole in the dead center. The hole is much larger than the needles, allowing for variations in the needle's position as it moves and flexes. One can still use a walking foot machine to sew light cloth if one relieves most of the pressure on the feet and the thread, top and bottom.

Common enough that I developed some new, custom swear words! I actually put a funnel over one spool of black thread to keep it from twisting over the thread guide on top of the thread stand.