Wizcrafts

Sometimes, dealers list their toll free number in publications, but may also list a local number on their website. For instance, the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines website has the toll free number in their banners and on-page, but lists a local phone number in the footer of every page. The footer is the bottom section of a web page, where copyright, important links and contact info is typically presented.

EPS motors use a separate sensor module and connecting linkage that controls the up or down position of the needle bar, when the motor is stopped by your heel on the pedal. It feeds a box with the circuitry, which then connects to and controls the motor's off on function. If all you see is a servo motor and a speed reducer under the table and no module connected between the machine and the motor (other than belts), you are missing the EPS. Here is a picture of the Cobra EPS motor: http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?item=55

In the 9 months since I posted this ad I have invested another $200 in replacement parts, to rebuild the machine to factory tolerances. Besides sewing leather and plywood, this machine even sews the crap being sold by Weaver as imitation leather, for reins and leads. A 441 clone set up to perfectly sew 1/2 inch veg-tan leather could not sew the bobbin thread into this material, but my Union Lockstitch did. The price, as of September 15, 2011, is now $2700, cash and carry, from Flint, Michigan. The buyer must pick it up and load it.

All three of these items have been sold. Please close this topic.

I don't know if he has an inline foot set in stock, or not. Call him and ask for it. It is is gone he may be able to machine another one for you. They are tricky to use, as there is no forward support around the sides of the needle, other than the inside foot..

Name the dealer and we will try to get you their local phone number.

What size, or sizes of needle and thread are you using to sew these awesome backpacks?

What size (number) are the thread, needle and spacer shim in use, when the machine skips stitches? What type of point is on the needle (round, or diamond, or triangle, or LR)? What thickness are you trying to sew, when it is skipping? What thickness of leather will it sew without skipping? Is the leather soft, medium or hard temper?

You will be wasting your money and shredding your nerves if you buy that home sewing machine and try to sew 12 ounces of leather with it. The so-called walking foot attachment is nothing of the sort. It is better described as an even feed attachment, used by quilters. I bought one for my old Singer 15-91, before I got a real walking foot machine. The attachment has an outer foot that basically follows the material as it is pulled by the bottom feed dogs. When the feed dogs drop down, at the end of the stitch, the outer foot snaps forward. These attachments cause you to lose at least 1/16" of usable space under the feet. So, a machine that could in theory sew 12 ounces thickness will now only be able to fit 8 to 10 ounces under the foot. If you try to compensate by pre-raising the pressor bar, the needle bar will hit the top of the feet on the way down. The consequences could be catastrophic for the attachment, the needlebar, or pressor bar. Without the "walking foot" attachment, the machine will not feed leather or Naugahyde properly. Your only recourse would be a roller equipped pressor foot. I have one of these and it also loses 1/16" clearance underneath and on top. A home sewing machine with a roller foot will only clear about 1/8" to 3/16" of material, before the needle bar strikes it and busts it open. Finally, these home style machines are only made to sew with light weight thread. The most you can use would be #69 bonded nylon. This thread has but 11 pounds of tensile strength.

This Boss went for sale today on the Flint Michigan Craigslist. I placed the ad for the owner, who doesn't have the Internet at this time and wishes to sell it for cash and carry only. http://flint.craigsl...2592144098.html If the ad expires, or you want to discuss the machine with him, his phone number is: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx I can't answer any questions about the machine, other than the fact that it actually exists and is as pictured in his ad. Edited to remove phone # on sold item.

By using the same thread on top and bottom, the tensions will increase in both places, usually in an equal amount. The only interference you face is the needle size. You may have to increase your needle size to a #19 or 20, which will re-balance the tensions for you.

Check with the official Adler website for user and repair manuals

Your patcher can indeed handle #92 thread, as can your bobbin case. If you use #46 or #69 in the bobbin, it will last longer, but the strength of the stitches will be that of the smallest thread. If you're only wanting to use #92 on top for appearance only, a mixed thread size is fine. But, if you want #92 for the increased strength of the stitching, use it on top and in the bobbin.

There are at least two sewing machines needed to repair this gun case. It was assembled on a Puritan high post chainstitch machine, using waxed heavy linen thread. At the very least, you will need a long arm (18"), "large" bobbin, Adler or Singer patcher, capable of sewing with #138 bonded nylon, or 4 cord linen thread. A Puritan high post machine would be nice, but you probably don't have one, or you wouldn't be asking about what to use. Otherwise, you might be able to sew replacement stitches using a 25" Cowboy CB5500, with triple feed. Several dealers on the forum and private probably have the long arm patchers for sale.

This motor modification is fascinating stuff. Keep it going please!

I don't play in a Blues Band. I play in Country/Western bands.

Different spool winding directions and different stiffness's of bondings can play havoc with sewing machines. Make sure you are allowing the Weaver thread to go up without any loop-d-loops on the thread stand. You may need to give it a couple of reverse twists with your fingers, as you feed it through the thread eye in the stand. Sometimes, with "twisty" thread, you may need go through one eye in the top post, then wrap it around the post and feed it through a second hole, rather then just straight through. Or, vice versa. If none of this stops the thread from twisting out of the tension disks, try feeding the thread directly sideways, off the spool, to the machine's top post. If you machine lacks a top thread post, substitute a front or side mounted thread post. If your top post in missing, replace it. If none exists, you can buy one, then drill and tap a hole for it, or drill undersize, taper the (threaded) bottom of the post on a sander/grinder, and drive it into the head. If none of this helps, get some other brand of thread, like Linhanyl, if you can find it.

I was going to suggest buying a spare foot. If your grinding idea doesn't pan out, you're only out the spare foot. I customized a spare foot on my buddy's Adler 30-70 patcher, to make the left toe very narrow (just enough to hold down the leather as the needle ascends). I also tapered it inward on the front and bottom, to reduce accidentally gouging stuff on the left of the foot. We use this foot to sew very close to formed cases, or jacket snaps, or tough zipper replacement jobs.

Absolutely not! It needs the teeth to pull the material through. The only time ground down teeth would be useful to me would be if I was using the patcher to sew soft or thin veg-tan wallets together, or to attach a Ranger belt strap. With the teeth gone, one would have to greatly reduce the foot pressure, or risk losing feed-ability. I have a triple feed, high lift, walking foot machine and a Union Lockstitch jumping foot needle feed machine. I use those for belts, holsters and heavy straps. Neither of those machines will mark the leather. I use my patcher for circular items and for patch sewing and repairing rips, handles and zippers in garments and hand bags. I also use it to sew seed bead projects to leather belts. I depend on the teeth being present and accounted for. Your use may be different and may work fine sans teeth on the foot.

There is a world of difference between the chainstitches made on a Puritan and those made on industrial garment sewing machines. The garment machines run cotton or polycore thread direct from the spools to the tensioners, to the needles. Pull the wrong way and the entire chain can unravel. Professionals who use Puritan machines run 3 to 6 cord, left twist, Barbour's Irish linen thread through a liquid wax in the closed-top wax pot. After a while, the wax hardens in the sewn material inside the chain stitches. Once the wax hardens, the stitches cannot be pulled apart in a chain, unless one exerts tremendous pressure, or cuts them with a sharp Hyde knife. I know, because I have had to work on items sewn on Puritan machines, and only a sharp knife got those stitches apart. Some were over 50 years old! If anybody has a Puritan that they just plain don't want, send it to me! I'll be your Huckleberry!

No. I mean that it is best to spin the hand wheel a half turn, or so, to help the motor overcome the weight of the machine's mechanism. Once it is in motion, it's easier to control the speed. I can slow way down and keep the machine in motion, thanks to the heavy flywheel (hand wheel). Operating with the wheel disengaged causes jack rabbit starts and stops and lots of clanging and banging of the moving parts. Once the motor takes control, I can use both hands to guide, or guide and pull the leather. Also, there is no feed dog area on a patcher. The rotating pressor foot does all of the feeding of the material, via aggressive teeth on the bottom of the foot.

I have a Japanese made National 300N walking foot machine. It is based on the Consew 206 and Chandler 406 machines. It originally had a 1/2 horsepower clutch motor, which worked fine. But, I got very busy sewing large quantities of guitar straps and rifle slings, both of which had sharp turns to deal with. Additionally, the slings had 2 additional layers where the lined tail joins the body and back liner. I had no real problem feathering the clutch, a few times here and there. But sewing dozens of slings and straps and having to slow right down to 1 stitch per second with a clutch motor was straining my leg. I learned about the SewPro 500 GR motor here. I spoke to Bob Kovar (866-362-7397) about it and described how I sew. He told me that it was the right motor for my work; and, he was right. The 500GR has built in 3:1 gear reduction and a 2" (50mm) pulley. Its full speed at the shaft is 1500 RPM. My machine has a 4" pulley, so, it is running at 50% of the motor speed. This gives me a maximum speed of 750 RPM, on the machine, which is a little more than 12 stitches per second. Because of the built in gear reduction, this motor doesn't bog down at slow speed. I routinely sew at 1 stitch every other second, around tips of belts and straps. On straight a-ways, it's flat out, 750 per minute, with smoke arisin!. Note, as I have said often, if you buy this motor to replace a standard clutch or servo motor, buy a shorter belt with it. It sits closer to the underside of the table, by 1 belt inch. Add that to any reduced size you need for any difference in the pulley sizes from the original motor.

On my setup, the hand wheel is active in the drive circuit. It rotates with the pulley, but at a slower rate of rotation. I tried operating it with the handwheel disconnected, by pulling the bobbin winder pin. The motor made the machine take off like a bat out of hell! Stopping it wasn't on a dime either! It seems to need the weight of the hand wheel to provide smoothness and controllability to this system. This lets me apply just enough hand control to get going, after which the motor does just fine. The motor is able to begin sewing without help from the hand wheel.

The Puritan machines (and Protos I guess) are used in the golf bag, luggage and rifle bag industries. The sewing I have seen uses waxed linen thread. It will not normally unravel and breaks only with great effort, or a Hyde knife.

Thanks for reminding me about this. Here's your pictures of the 29K172, equipped with an AlphaSew 1.5 amp motor and transistor controller, running the big pulley with a 23" x 1/4" inch cogged belt. It penetrates 1/4 inch of black strap leather with a little effort, and 1/8" like butter. Unlike the leather drive belt, this belt does not slip at all. Amazingly, now that I am able to use both hands on the leather, this setup sews 5 stitches per inch into 1/4" of belt leather, at maximum foot lift and bottom-most stitch regulator settings (where you can still use the lift lever). The presser foot activator has almost no appreciable free play. The triple folded piece of 8 oz belt leather secures the motor against the back of the head, preventing it from being pulled up under strain. My preferred mounting place was completely along the back of the base. But, I can't find a cogged belt 27.5 inches long to mount it there.