Wizcrafts

It's not your imagination Steve. These machines need to be broken in. The get quieter and smoother as they age and loosen up. Keep it well oiled between jobs.

Your top thread may have jumped out of the middle of the tension disks. The top tension adjuster may have backed off from vibration, or been turned without your knowledge. The needle might be too small for the thread you are now using. Assuming the bobbin tension spring is set to allow light pressure, the bobbin thread might be getting caught or jammed on the way up. Is it easy to pull the bobbin thread through the feed dog from the top of the machine? There might be a clump of thread in the shuttle

Absolutely!

Now that you have slowed down the speed of the motor and smoothed its pull rod operation, the next logical step would be to play with the free movement before the clutch engages. Loosen the big nut on the bolt in front of the output shaft. Turn the threaded bolt out to get more free play, or in for less. Tighten down the nut when you have it set to your liking.

I'd wager that "Toledo Bob" probably has the large 6 spoke handwheels for the 31-15 machines. If not, he can find another wheel with the same inside shaft diameter to mount it onto a 31 class machine.

Coitently! Read this thread to see how one member slowed down and maxed the torque on his upholstery machine, plus gained a huge handwheel.

I sew patches onto leather jackets and vests with a patcher machine. It is best to use #69 thread, with a #16 or #18 needle when applying patches. Make sure there is enough foot pressure to allow the teeth to pull the work the stitch length you have set. I use double-sided leather quality sticky tape to hold the patches in place while sewing them. Alternately, use barge cement to secure the patches to the leather. The usual procedure is to open the lining at the most convenient place that is inline with the area where the patch will be sewn. Feed the leather garment over the arm and make sure the lining is under the entire arm. Position the needle, drop the foot and start treadling around the patch. Go over the starting point a few stitches, then stitch back past it a stitch or two, then lift the foot and pull the material to the next patch, et. al, until you are done. If there is sufficient top pressure, the foot should feed the taped or glued on patch and leather together, without any puckering. The glue you are using must not be holding very well if the leather is able to shift under the patch, as you stitch. BTW: Please don't take this as an attack, but, typing entire posts in all capital letters is considered SHOUTING and is strongly frowned upon in normal forum and bulletin board Netiquette.

Here's my sticky article: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239 If the 29U172 is the same machine as my 29K172, it will sew about 1/4" of leather; maybe even 5/16" with the pressor foot at maximum lift. It can handle up to #138 thread, but goes a lot longer with #92 or #69.

You might want to order a service manual, with the parts list and adjustment specs, from Consew. It will help a lot if parts are needed.

What I see in the photos of the two wheels is that while the hand wheel is larger on one, the pulley isn't. That means that it will be easier to hand wheel the machine, but there wouldn't be any speed reduction, nor torque multiplication, if one swapped wheels. The only way to get slower speeds, with more torque, is to do one of the following changes: Change the original clutch motor pulley to a much smaller diameter pulley (with a shorter belt). Buy a speed reducing double or triple pulley to go between the motor and the machine. They mount under the table and add one more v-belt. They typically yield about 3:1 speed reduction and the same amount of torque multiplication. Replace the motor with a SewPro 500GR servo motor (& shorter v-belt). It has built in 3:1 speed reduction gears and a 2" pulley.

From your description of that machine, it hasn't really been reconditioned! It sounds like you will need to replace the needlebar needle securing screw. If the new screw doesn't hold the needle in tightly, the bar may need to be tapped to a large thread and hole size (with a new screw to match), or replaced altogether. The stitch length changing that much, on a relatively thin seam sounds like a loose feed dog, or a loose or totally worn out upper feed mechanism, or an unusually loose stitch length adjuster knob. You may be best to ship it to a qualified dealer on this forum, for professional repairs.

Guys, there's no need to fight over this. My friend asked me to post the machine for sale with his asking price, which is based on what he paid for the machine and the modifications to it. If somebody seriously wants to get this machine they should call him and discuss it with him and see where the price goes from there. He doesn't even have an email address at this time. That's why I posted the machine details for him.

Amen! If you really can't live with the bottom puckers, reduce the pressure on the pressor feet. If there is a pressor foot spring on top of the head, turn it counterclockwise, until it almost pops out. That is the point of minimum spring pressure. As long as the leather doesn't lift with the ascending needle, go with reduced top pressure. If the needle causes the leather to lift, increase the pressure until the leather stays put.

I guess that info can be found by searching the Simanco.com database on the model 269 machines. Or, ask dealers who sold them and still have some in stock. I gave you a phone number for one dealer who undoubtedly has various bartackers on his shelves.

Suem; I've seen those x tacker machines you are looking for. They are cam driven, just like a bartacker. They were/are made by Singer, Brother, Juki and others. The Singer model you want is a 269x...series. For instance, the Singer 269x999 produces two boxed criss-cross patterns: 1/2" x 1 1/4" and 3 1/4" x 1-3/4" Machines like this are plentiful since the closure of many textile and garment plants in the USA. Most industrial sewing machine dealers who sell to a variety of markets (not just to leathercrafters) have several tacking machines sitting on shelves, collecting dust. They were made to tack all day long, not sit and die. Call a dealer (e.g. 866-362-7397) and see if he has an old Singer X pattern tacker in stock. If the pattern dimensions are close to what you want, and the price is affordable, grab it. Oh, when you find your tacker and bring it home, put it far away from the spouse. They produce a wonderful racket, with a super loud CLANG at the end of the cycle!

You need to check it out very thoroughly before buying it for that much money. Here is your checklist: with the pressor foot up off the throat plate, see how much slack there is when you push and pull on it. You can test this by raising the lever on the back, or by lowering the needle, which raises the foot. If you can push or pull the foot more than about 1/16 inch, stitch length is going to suffer, especially if it can move 1/8 inch. rotate the butterfly knobs under the head, turning the then foot around 360 degrees. It should not bind in any position. Binding can be caused by a bent shaft, or the thread check spring just above the needle mounting bracket. examine the hole in the take-up lever for excessive wear. Thread actually cuts into the metal after decades of use. Make sure the mechanism turns freely when you rotate the flywheel. The rear mounted wheel must be turned towards you from the top (CCW). Make sure that the bobbin winder is attached to the back of the machine, under the hand wheel, and that is can be moved into firm contact with the wheel and locked into position. A worn or missing bobbin winder tire can be replaced. Open the throat plate and wiggle the bobbin shuttle. It shouldn't have much more than 1/8 inch slack. It is driven by a rack and pinion gear assembly that wears out over time. Test the machine to see if it sews properly, without skipped stitches and that you get at least 6 stitches per inch, on 5-6 ounce leather. The stitch length gets shorter as the thickness increases. At 1/4 inch, you may not get more than 7 or 8 spi, if the foot drive actuator is work out (see step #1). Make sure the treadle mechanism works smoothly and that the belt has sufficient tension to turn the machine. The belt is easily replaced if worn or missing. I would want to get at least one bobbin case and a few spare bobbins with the machine. THREADING ROD! If it doesn't have a threading rod you will need to buy one, to push the top thread down the needlebar. These old patchers use type 29x3 (round point) and 29x4 (leather point) needles. They are really only good at sewing with #69 to #92 thread. The bobbins are tiny and don't hold a lot of thread. If you try to load a bobbin with #138 thread and sneeze, you will run out of thread! Just kidding ;-) - but it won't sew very far with #138. Also, the pressure required to sew with #138 may stress out the feed mechanism.

Both the Cobra and Cowboy stitchers you mentioned will sew 4-5 ounce leather, with #69 bonded nylon thread, if you insert a #18 needle and lower the pressure on the pressor feet. You may have to increase the tension on the bobbin spring and reduce the tension on the top thread, to balance the position of the knots. The quality and construction of both brands is equal in my estimation, so I would see who offered me the best price and accessories package, shipped. Our members who have bought both Cowboy and Cobra machines are very happy with them. Both companies offer personal assistance on the phone, after the sale. Both stock accessories, needles, thread, parts, etc and have very similar pricing structures. Call both dealers and ask them to describe their machines in detail to you. Maybe one of them will offer something the other doesn't, like a servo motor with a bit of free motion before it engages, or stainless steel pressor feet and throat plates that won't stain moist veg-tan leather. Last, but definitely not least, both Bob Kovar and Steve Tayrien are great guys and knowledgeable sewing machine gurus. Your good money will not be wasted if you purchase either of these brands of stitchers.

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines sells both. You'll need to first measure the existing pulley and find the size designation of the v-belt. When you order a 2" pulley, also order a belt that is one inch shorter for each inch of pulley diameter difference. If the original pulley is 4 inches, you should buy a two inch shorter belt. The idea is you want to keep the motor tension adjuster in its mid-range of threads. If the belt is too long, you'll be all the way at the bottom of the threaded rod, or off entirely. If it's too short, you'll run out of up adjustment space. A properly adjusted v-belt should have about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection in the middle, when pushed lightly with your index finger. If the belt is too tight there will be a lot of stress on the both the motor shaft and main shaft on the machine. If it's too loose, there may be slippage under heavy loads. Keep some belt no-slip spray handy in case that happens. It works wonders and quiets the belt in the process.

I have written an extensive article about the types of sewing machines required to sew leather. It may help you reach a decision about which machine is really the best for your purposes. If the local sewing machine shop has such a machine, great! If not, we have quite a few sewing machine dealers who sell industrial machines of all types and sewing machines specifically designed and equipped to sew leather, thick or thin. By discounting inadequate machines and narrowing your choices to those meeting your requirements, you'll save a lot of time, money and aggravation.

It is a garment and tailoring machine, from the flat feed and ruler marked throat cover plate. The self oiler says that it runs at very high speed. It will be a good machine for sewing clothes from denim, broadcloth, and cotton. It will sew with #69 thread and a #18 needle. If you want to sew leather garments, use a leather point needle, change the pressor foot to a roller foot, then change the pulley on the motor to a 2" pulley and get a shorter v-belt to keep the motor adjuster in the middle of its range. If the machine is still too fast, buy a servo motor, with a 2" pulley (and short belt). Do not expect this machine to sew belt leather, or any material thicker than about 1/4 inch of soft material.

There is also Greg at Keystone sewing machines. They have new and used machines. I'll have to look them up to get a phone number. Techsew, a division of Raphael Sewing in Montreal, PQ, also sells used machine and is a member of this forum. There are actually a lot of new machine dealers that also rebuild older stock. I am sure you will find a suitable machine at a price you can afford.

You'll probably need a cylinder arm machine, with a walking foot mechanism, to do the work you described. A couple of our member-dealers sell used, as well as new leather sewing machines. The one I know best is Bob Kovar, owner of Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (in Toledo, Ohio). He has dozens of new and used/rebuilt machines of all descriptions for sale, including many that have cylinder arms. His phone number is 866-362-7397. If you are in the market for a new machine, your choices expand, along with the cost.

I am posting this for a business associate of mine, who has a custom leathercraft shop in Flint, Michigan. He is selling his well maintained and highly improved Randall Model 132 strap cutter. The machine was purchased new from Randall, in New York, in 1990. He had it modified by a local machine shop to have heavy duty bearings and grease fittings on the main shafts, ensuring that the shafts will not run dry or go out of round, under the stress of cutting thick leather into straps. The machine originally shipped with one set of blades and spacers. He required more widths of cut and purchased or had manufactured 45 spacers in 4 widths and 4 new blade spacer plates for them. He also purchased about 45 additional type 132 cutting blades, from Randall. The asking price is $4250. The machine is clean, setup and can be tested in the shop. More details and lots of photos of the machine, motor-table and the many extra parts are available on this web page. Anybody interested in viewing or purchasing the Randall 132 strap cutter should call Doug Monroe, at M&M Leather: 810-732-4907, Monday - Saturday, from noon until 6 PM, Eastern Time. This is a cash and carry offer, from Flint, Michigan.

Let the discussion begin! Art has already mentioned the Cobra stitchers, which are based in California. They are great machines. But, nobody has mentioned Cowboy stitchers yet. Cowboy stitchers are of equal quality and similar specifications to the Cobras. The Cowboy CB2500 (10.5" arm), CB3500 (9" arm), CB4500 (16.5" arm) and CB5500 (25" arm) are sold and supported by Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines: 866-362-7397. They will sew all the holsters you can throw at them, with thread heavy enough to tie a bale of hay. For pancake holsters, 1/4 inch in total thickness, well molded to the shape of the gun, I would use #207 or #277 bonded nylon thread. To sew these thread sizes you need to use a #24 or #25 needle. You are correct: you definitely want a lockstitch machine! Almost all sewing machines in general use are lockstitch machines. This is used to lock the starting and finishing stitches in place and prevent the work from coming undone. By sewing backwards into the same holes, for about three stitches, you lock the thread in place. You can also sew backwards, or turn the holster around, sewing a parallel stitch line for about 3/4 inch. This system is used by commercial holster manufacturers. The three machines I mentioned are capable of sewing 1/2" (CB2500) and 7/8" (CB3500 and CB4500 models). The 2500 is bottom feed only and can leave tooth marks on the bottom. The others are compound feed, with a smooth feed dog that leaves no tooth marks. If you want to just sew holsters and belts, the 9 inch arm machines will do just fine. They all sew with very heavy thread and big needles, into dense leather, up to 7/8" thick. The CB2500 has a 10 1/2 inch long arm and the 4500 has a 16.5" arm length. If you ever sew a Western holster you will appreciate the longer arm on the CB4500. They do have table top attachments if you need a flat surface to support the work.

I would agree 100%, but the OP specifically said he wanted to stay away from Chinese built machines. That's why I limited my response to US, Japanese and German built machines. He also asked about the American built Campbell machines. I my humble opinion, there is no other harness/holster sewing machine in production that can equal the stitch quality of a Campbell-Randall or Union Lockstitch machine. I have used Union Lockstitch machines to produce hundreds of holsters, belts and pouches over the years, including the holsters used in the movie Romeo and Juliet. Freedman Harness has a floor full of Randalls, working day in and day out, making harness, bridles and reins for the Rockerfellers and other top equestrian businesses and breeders. A few years ago, Bianci had Campbell-Randall machines producing most of their holsters, pouches, and Sam Browne belts for Police, security, sporting and military use. In the hands of a skilled operator, nothing beats a Campbell-Randall or Union Lockstitch machine for stitch quality, tightness, and top/bottom appearance. Very few other machines can sew with liquid waxed linen thread either. Just my 2 cents worth! Now, if the OP wants to ask about Chinese built machines, I'll be glad to discuss them.