Wizcrafts

A narrower needle requires less top pressure to keep the leather from lifting as the needle ascends. If you were using a #22 needle and #138 thread top and bottom, changing to a #21 needle, with #138 on top and #92 in the bobbin will give a good tight stitch, with knots well into the leather. But, the pressure required to hold down the leather is reduced. Therefore, you can back off the top pressure spring, or springs if you have two, reducing the visibility of any foot marks. A side benefit to a smaller needle is a smaller exit hole on the bottom.

The SewPro 500GR only draws a single watt when not engaged. It draws 300 watts at full load. Mine has never even gotten hot to the touch. By contrast, the 1/2 horsepower motor it replaced drew about 550 watts and could warm my expando in idle. The motor makes no sound in idle and it's easy to forget it is switched on. Remember to switch it off when it's not in use. You wouldn't want your kid or pet to accidentally push on the floor pedal and start the machine running.

If the motion feed crank has a worn down feed puck, you can braze bronze onto it, then shape it with a file, then buff it to a polished finish. If you take your time and get the clearance and ends shaped just loose enough to allow the crank to turn 360 degrees, you will get the maximum stitch length possible (~5/inch). I did this to two Singer patchers and both gave 5 stitches per inch after the bronze build up job.

You would use a #24 needle with 207 thread. Use a leather point needle for leather and a regular point for cloth and vinyl.

Use a combination of tactics, including backing off the outer foot pressure, coupled with moving down one needle size with the same thread, or two sizes with the next thread size down. You may need to run the top thread through a lube pot to get it to feed properly in an undersized needle. Next, replace the throat plate with a narrow slotted plate, if possible. If you have a wide toe pressor foot set, change to it. This distributes the pressure more evenly than narrow toe feet. If the machine is not walking foot, use a Teflon foot to reduce marks on top. Aslo, a couple layers of masking tape under the foot track will absorb the foot marks, which allowing the leather to feed, if it is a walking foot, triple feed, or needle feed machine.

The link is on the last word in the sentence: "here" Links with anchor text, instead of a URL, don't normally have blue color on this forum. They are black, just like the default text color. Look for underlined words in posts and hover over them. If they are links, the pointer will change as you hover over that word. I guess we should start using the text color button next to the Fonts selection box, to color links blue, to make them more obvious. Just create a link, then drag your mouse across the word or words to highlight them. Then, go up to the button to the immediate right side of the Fonts box and click on it. The color palette will open and allow you to click on a color to apply it to the highlighted selection.

A mint condition Singer patcher is lucky to sew 5 stitches per inch; and only in relatively thin leather. I get 5/inch maximum when sewing under 8 ounces. After 8 ounces it begins to decline fast. The only way to get long stitches at 1/4" is to help the material, by pulling it behind the foot. There are some adjustments that affect stitch length. The lift of the foot can reduce your maximum length. I set my foot to maximum lift, always. This is not what the manual recommends, but it works for me. If your machine has a long tension spring on the back, the sliding puck near the front end controls the lift. Move it all the way towards the back, where the notch is in the metal. That is your maximum lift location. If the machine uses a sliding metal lever and block with L-M-H engraved, on the back of the head, loosen the wing-nut and move the lever forward, to the H position. The puck at the back should just be out of contact with the lever protruding from the rear of the head, which lifts to foot as the machine rotates. If there is too much clearance before the lever engages, foot lift and stitch length will suffer. Adjust as necessary. You do need sufficient pressure on the foot to pull the material. Tighten the spring a bit and see if this helps. Old patchers tend to wear out under the head, in the ring that causes the foot to mover forward and backward. See how much slack there is when you rotate the machine to lift the foot, then push and pull on the foot. Any motion beyond about 1/16" will limit your maximum stitch length. At 1/8" free motion, the machine is shot and the mechanism needs replaced or rebuilt.

It appears to be a garment sewing machine. It is difficult to make out the feed system from these photos, but, it seems to be flat foot, bottom feed. The thread cones on the thread stand are cotton or polycore, such as is used in the manufacturing of clothes. Will it work for sewing leather? That depends on the feed system, how high the pressor foot lifts and what the largest needle size is for this type of machine. Most garment factories ordered machines that were designed for fast (high speed) sewing of relatively thin, not-dense cloth articles, using soft cotton or polycore thread. Jeans are built on heavier duty machines (walking foot) than shirts and pants (straight needle, flat foot). This machine, at a distance, looks like a shirt and pants machine. If my assessment is correct, you will need to replace the motor pulley with a much smaller one, or add a speed reducer pulley system, or replace the entire motor with a servo motor. Otherwise, it will be uncontrollable. Furthermore, you'll be limited to using #69 bonded thread and #18 needles. You will probably be limited to sewing 3/16" to 1/4" of material. If the machine has bottom feed (dogs) and a flat foot, it may not feed sticky garment leather at all. In that case, you'll need to find a Teflon or roller pressor foot to replace the steel foot. Adler feet are usually unlike most others in common use; they have their own mounting system and typically cost more than Singer or Consew feet. Parts for this machine come from Germany and are expensive.

One more adjustment you might try is to the rubber tipped stop screw that sets the minimum/off position for the foot pedal. There is a chain connecting the right side of the speed pedal to a small lever that protrudes from a slot in the back of the servo motor. There is a turn-able screw with a rubber cap than moves the lever. In the off position, the lever sits at the top of the slot. If this screw is set too far down, the motor will always be almost on. Try turning the screw all the way up, until it stops turning. If necessary, take off the rubber cap from it. This allows more upward motion, which translates into more off and low speed range of motion. Also, make sure there is a little free play in the chain going from the pedal to the hole in the motor speed lever.

I have a learned recommendation for all 29-4 and 29k small bobbin patchers. Buy a couple of extra bobbin cases and a few dozen bobbins. Also, get some extra bobbin springs and the little screw that holds and adjusts the bobbin tension. Also, buy a replacement needle securing screw. Next, locate a source of #69 300 yard nylon patcher spools of thread and stock up on all the colors you will use; two spools each. Get a squeeze bottle 20 weight electric motor oil from Lowes (looks like 3 in 1, but has a blue label) and put a few drops into all of the oil holes and let some drip into the puck on the back.

As Walter Mitty would say: these machines go tapoketa, tapoketa

Please contact Steve Tayrien about your motor problem. His number is 866-962-9880. But, first try loosening the v-belt a bit. Sometimes, an overly tight drive belt will cause erratic motor behavior. In fact, you can test it by removing the belt entirely, then lightly push down on the toe of the speed pedal. See if you can run it slowly without any jumps in speed. If you get it set to a good slow speed position and hold it steady, but it speeds up without any further pushing on your part, the controller circuitry may be defective. BTW: Is this motor the one with the digital readout and up and down speed buttons?

I am still looking for spare parts and accessories for my 100 year old Union Lockstitch Machine. If anybody has extra or unwanted bobbins, needles, awls, pressor feet, throat plates, edge guides, springs, screws, or various 4-sided wrenches, I can use them. I am also interested in a spare needlebar with or without the channel cutting blade. Also, if you have spare machine parts that aren't needed, I may take them off your hands. Please contact me through the forum, or by replying to this topic.

Priceless!

I make sharp turns, like at belt tips, with the needle down and just beginning to rise. This ensures that the loop is caught by the pickup point. Sometimes, if my own personal timing is off and I twist the strap with the needle at BDC, it may skip that stitch. Allowing the timing to advance a few degrees eliminates that problem. e.g.: 5 to 10 degrees past BDC. Also, I raise the pressor foot just enough to clear the leather as I make the turn.

Home sewing machines are made to accept home machine needles that range in number from about 9, up to 18. In order to sew #138 thread you will need to use at least a number 21 needle. Certain needle types may pass #138 in size 19 (Schmetz), if it is well bonded and tightly twisted. You may be able to find some #20 leather point needles for home sewing machines. They will probably allow you to sew with #138 on top and #92 in the bobbin. If you sew a lot with #138 thread, into veg-tan leather, in a home type machine, you will eventually destroy it. You really should use an industrial machine that is built to handle heavy thread. This usually leaves out all of the tailoring machines with flat feet and bottom feed. The exceptions are the Singer 45k clones and the Singer 153 and its clones. These are heavier duty machines. All modern walking foot machines love #138 thread, top and bottom.I use either a number 22 or 23 leather point needle with #138 thread, top and bottom.

I re-read the entire thread and see that a couple of us mentioned where to get the SewPro 500GR motor, but nobody gave you the phone number. Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines: 866-362-7397. Tell them you heard about the motor here. Be sure you ask for the 2" pulley and remember what I said about getting a shorter v-belt.

The Adler 205 is different than the Juki 441 or its clones. If I could go down the street and pick one up off the lawn on garbage day, wild horses wouldn't keep me away. Of course, if there is something wrong with the Adler you will have to pay to ship it to a qualified mechanic. Adler parts are dear. Also, there is the spacer shims system to consider. Adler 204 and 205 machines (at least) have a spacer shim screwed into the shuttle housing. The shims have numbers corresponding to the perfect (and maximum) needle size. A #200 (25) needle and #200 shim are standard equipment. The purpose of the shim is to set the perfect distance between the descending needle and the pickup point. If you use a much smaller needle size than the shim in the shuttle, you may suffer skipped stitches, due to the eye of the needle being too far from the point. These shims are usually good for about three or four needle sizes down, but none above its number. That means that you could use a #21 or #22 needle without skipping stitches, but you could not install a #26 needle, unless you changed to a #220 shim. In contrast, the 441 and its clones have a rotating tapered spacer that ensures that any size needle stays close to, but doesn't contact the point head on. Another difference that bothers me about the 441 type machines is that the manual pressor foot lift lever is on the inside of the head, where it can be blocked by the work light or edge guide. The Adler manual lift lever is on the top left-rear of the head. My perfect machine would be the Adler 205 top end and feed dog/throat plate, mated to a 441 shimless shuttle system. Hmmmmm

Yes, it will work on that machine just fine. The 500GR has built-in 3:1 gear reduction. This makes it more powerful than it looks. It also limits the top speed of the motor to 1500 RPM. The SewPro 500GR mounts a little closer to the table than a clutch motor. You will lose one inch of belt length, if the motor feeds the machine directly, without a speed reducer. If there is a reducer in the system the belt change may be negligible and easily compensated for via the motor adjuster bolt. If it is feeding all the way up to the flywheel on the machine, buy a 1" shorter belt. If the pulley on the original motor is larger than 2 inches, subtract another inch for each inch that the SewPro is smaller. In my case, I replaced a clutch motor that had a 2.5" pulley with the SewPro motor and a 2" shorter belt. This positioned the motor a a favorable angle for the pedal rods to pull smoothly. Doh! I almost forgot the last question you asked! The existing belt will have a number after a letter. The letter probably is M. The number indicates the length of the belt, at the inside of the tapered belt's circumference. For instance, if the original says it is an M44, and the original motor has a 2" pulley, you would then order an M43 belt with the motor. If the original pulley is 2.5 or 3 inches, you would order an M42 belt (assuming a 44" to start with). The threaded adjuster allows for about 1.5 inches adjustment, up or down from the center point. But, the good operating angle occupies a range of about one inch, from the center down. Each pedal setup may differ from others and your floor pedal may allow a full range of adjustment, up or down, without binding. Mine didn't.

It replaces the existing motor and switch box, with its wiring.

Worse yet, some of the sewing machine dealers on eBay simply ship the unopened box to you, without first going over the machine. Some of those dealers buy out entire job lots from other dealers who go out of business (I've seen them advertise their lot of sewing machines in a storage locker). Our dealers remove the machines when they receive them from the manufacturer. Then, they go over them, looking for any problems that need fixed. Then, they adjust the timing and particular clearances, mount them on tables and sew them off. When you buy a machine from our people, it will work as advertised. Plus, if you have problems, or just general operational questions, out dealers are always willing to help you out. Finally, if the worst happens and the machine jams beyond your ability to fix it, you can ship it back to our guys for repairs. Most eBay sellers will only take back a machine if it is dead on arrival. You may find lower prices on eBay, it is true. But, very few of the low price eBay sellers are also equipped to service the machines afterward. Also, you can forget about telephone support with most of those folks (but not all). Whatever machine you buy, from wherever you buy it, don't neglect to oil it regularly. If you buy an automatic oiling machine. check the oil level every week or two. It only takes a couple of minutes to seize a shaft in a bearing if oil doesn't get to it.

You can get anything you want at Alice's Restaurant!

I second what JimBob told you about the SewPro motor. I bought mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and it is a God send. I used to hand wheel around belt and strap tips, with my well adjusted clutch motor. Now, I use the servo motor to sew at 1 stitch every other second, guiding the work with two hands. BTW: The SewPro 500GR from Bob Kovar has a 2 inch pulley. This really slows down the maximum speed, while multiplying the torque. My hot-rodded walking foot machine is now capable of sewing 1/2 inch of leather, at slow controllable speeds, without slippage, thanks to that little servo motor.

Polyester thread is for use on items that are often used in direct sunlight or water. It is primarily used to sew awnings, tents, car wash cloths, boat covers and sails. Bonded polyester thread usually has a UV coating to prevent discoloration in direct sunlight. Bonded nylon is a tad stronger and seems to be better bonded. It is used more often on items that are not left in the sun or that are frequently soaked in water. Nylon thread is cheaper than Anti-UV coated polyester. It is the staple thread of most leathercrafters with machines. There is one more type of thread I want to mention: Glazed linen. This is the cream of the crop thread that is used in shoe sole stitchers, and in most needle and awl harness stitchers. Many commercial holsters are sewn on needle and awl machines using waxed linen thread. When properly waxed, this thread will outlast the owner of the sewn goods. If one stitch breaks, the rest stay locked. This is why shoe soles are sewn with waxed linen thread. Most Puritan machines use waxed linen thread.

I apologize for assuming that Tat2 was trolling. This was not the case. Sometimes, things aren't what they appear to be.