Wizcrafts

George; What thread is being cut when you back-stitch? Top thread Bobbin thread Stitches already in material Here are some more questions and related mechanical things to check: Are the back-stitches going exactly into the same holes as existing forward stitches? What size stitch length are you using now, where the threads are cutting? Is this a different stitch length than before? Has there been a recent jam in the bobbin case or shuttle? If so, the timing may have changed. Check the timing. Check your timing of the needle in reverse. It the needle is in a much different position in reverse than in forward. With a large stitch length, this can cause the pick-up point to split the top thread loop, instead of going inside it. See if the check spring has sufficient range of motion to keep the top thread slack tight, until the needle fully penetrates the leather, in both forward and reverse mode. Adjust it for more motion if necessary (to reduce slack top thread). Don't go too far down, or the loops won't form in the needle! Is there sufficient top pressure on the presser feet to prevent the material from lifting as the needle begins to ascend? If not, increase the spring pressure. Check the timing of the feed dog, if you are using one. It must move in sync with the needle. After resetting the timing, or not, go over all screws on moving parts to ensure they are as tight as possible. Oil the moving parts again. Try using thread lube, or lubricated thread. Let us know if any of this helps.

You are most welcome Warpe!

This is only true when you keep the same size (and sometimes make and model) thread in the bobbin and just change thicknesses of material being sewn. If you change to a noticeably thinner or thicker thread, the bobbin tension can vary a lot. At work, when I change from #138 to #69 thread (for garment leather repairs) I need to increase the bobbin tensioner and loosen the top tensioner. If the previous job used #207 thread, the tension changes are even more pronounced. Otherwise, I set the bobbin tension to allow the thread to feed smoothly, with some exertion, but not too much. A very tight bobbin spring will cause the leather/material to have too much drag against the feed action. On thick leather this means shorter stitches than you might get otherwise. On thin or soft leather, that drag can cause the bottom thread to pinch the leather. Balancing an overly tight bobbin thread with more top tension may cause the thread to perforate the leather. Finally, if the bobbin thread is very tight and you compensate by tightening the top thread, it makes it harder to remove the work when you are done sewing. You lift the pressor feet, with the foot lifter, but need to manually pull the threads backwards, to move the leather out of the machine. Sometimes the top thread will break from too much top tension, as you remove it. If you have need of changing the bobbin spring tension often, make sure you use the proper size screwdriver, to avoid damaging the slot in the screw. Also, stick with one supplier of bobbins (assuming they don't give you any problems from the get-go). Manufacturing differences can throw off your adjustments, bobbin to bobbin. Nicks or bends on the end disks can cause the bobbin to drag at those points of rotation. These are things I have learned while sewing on a 441 clone machine, into everything from 4 ounces of garment layer, up to 5/8" of veg-tan, and through 1/8" of ABS plastic when I'm repairing motorcycle saddlebags.Your milage will vary. We regularly use nylon thread sizes 69, 138, 207 and 277 with this machine. Our needle sizes range from #19 through #25. We mostly use #22 and #23 needles and #138 lubricated thread.

Campbell-Randall Company had some custom screws turned for me, for my 101 year old Union Lockstitch machine. I imagine that if one was to send them a mechanical drawing of a desired screw, they could make it, or have an existing one modified to the required pitch. They already have quite a variety of square head screws and matching t-wrenches. My ULS machine uses three different square head wrench sizes. I own the small and medium wrenches for adjusting timing and the bobbin shuttle position. I just use a suitable 12 pt socket to remove the bigger quad-head screws securing the face plate containing the awl and pressor foot bars. Somebody with a mini-milling machine and lathe should be able to make 4 sided wrenches.

I get my square head screws and T-wrenches from Campbell-Randall, in Yoakum, Texas. These screws are used all over the Campbell-Randall and Union Lockstitch needle and awl harness stitching machines, which they build and sell.

As Trox mentioned, just because the Adler you are thinking about buying weighs 200 pounds and has a 20 inch body clearance, doesn't mean that it will make a good leather sewing machine. I have seen those long body Adlers, with one inch clearance under the feet, and they look like tanks. Nonetheless, these machines were built and setup for sewing sails, awnings, buffing wheels and car wash drying cloths. The buffing wheels and car wash cloths are thick, but made of cloth. They require a specialized high lift machine to sew them, and that's what these Adler 20-somethings are built to do. Adler does make leather sewing machines. They include the model 204 and 205 and various sub-classes. I know of one member of this forum who has an Adler 204-374 for sale at a very good price. It sews up to 3/4 inch of leather, with a #25 system 794 needle, using #277 bonded nylon thread. The take-up and tension parts and the bobbin system are all designed to handle heavy thread, sewn into thick leather. If you intend to sew sails, tents, awnings or buffing wheels, the old Adler 20-20 might be the perfect machine for those jobs.

Yes, there are some sewing machines that can utilize a #24 or #25 needle that is 1/16" in diameter (#25 is better). However, these needles have sharp points that slowly taper to circular as the needle descends. As the needle withdraws, the hole closes up behind it, to a degree. But, if there is thread in the bobbin and on top, the bottom thread gets pulled into the hole, forming the lockstitch. I use a needle and awl sewing machine. The awls have a steep angled chisel point, with a short taper to the full width of the round awl. The holes made with these awls tend to stay open. So, to answer your question, yes, an industrial sewing machine may be able to accept very big needles, but the holes they poke may heal on the upstroke. One option is to try to find awls that have the same diameter and length as the needles used by that machine and use them to poke your holes. Or, find a "reasonably priced" needle and awl machine (speculative statement). Option #1 usually involves either an Adler 204 flatbed, or 205 cylinder arm sewing machine, or clone, or a Juki 441, or its clone (Cowboy, Cobra, Techsew, Ferdinand Bull, etc, etc, etc). The Adler 204 and 205 will allow you to stab through 3/4 inch of leather, with needles up to #27, if the proper shuttle spacer is installed to space the pickup point at a safe distance from the needle. The 441 clones will allow even thicker leather under the feet and can use #27 needles and don't require a shuttle spacer. Option #2 means buying a Union Lockstitch Machine, or a Campbell-Randall, or a Champion, or Landis - needle and awl harness stitcher. These machines typically sell for much more used than the 441 clones sell for new. You might not have considered it yet, but, a drill press with a 1/16" bit makes a 1/16" hole in anything under the chuck!

None other than Sewmun, aka: Bob Kovar, owner of Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. His phone number and link to his website is in his signature, in a reply to you in this topic.

You can get all of those pressor feet from our member, Bob Kovar; owner of Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. I also have a couple of the spring edge guide feet. You have to dink with the spring to ensure that it freely moves all the way up and down. Some of them bind a little after going up and don't drop down all the way. This can lead to the spring running up onto the edge of the leather, throwing your nice stitch line out of alignment (my own experience). After I ran emery cloth through the slots and over any rough edges of the springs, they moved all the way up and down, freely.

Doug; I have a walking foot machine that uses type 111 pressor feet and this is what I have for feet: smooth - bottom standard width and heavy duty (wider) double toe sets smooth - left toe standard width set teeth - left toe narrow set (zippers) teeth - right toe (zippers) smooth binding foot set (extra wide inside foot and long, wide left toe to match) welting foot sets from 3/16" up to 5/8" double welting foot set for 1/8" cord The only attachment I currently have is a swing-away edge guide, with either a long flat edge guide, or a narrow roller guide that screws onto it. My sewing on this machine ranges from 2 layers of Naugahyde, up to 7/16" of leather. While I tend to use the smooth left toe set the most, for work up to 5/16 inch, I find that it is best to change to the extra wide double toe or binding foot set, for thicker leather (3/8"+). These sets exert more pressure on their own, by spreading the top spring pressure over a wider path. A single toe - standard width set needs much more top pressure to keep the thick leather from lifting with the needle, which causes skipped stitches, different stitch lengths and definitely, deeper marks from the left outside foot.

Yes, the motor appears to be snookered.

Isolate the problem. Loosen the motor adjuster and remove the v-belt. Then, try sewing by hand wheeling the machine. Does it sew more then 8 stitches, without binding or skipping stitches? Are the flywheel setscrews absolutely tight on the main shaft? Are the screws on the shuttle fully tightened down? Ditto for the screws for the feed dog mechanism? If the machine screws are all tight and it sews perfectly without the motor, then either the clutch or windings are bad, or failing. Try adjusting the clutch bolt, on the output side of the motor face. Turning the big screw inwards moves the clutch closer to the spinning motor and vise-versa. If the clutch slips after engaging, when set to engage with a slight toe down on the pedal, it's time for a new motor. See if adding or subtracting pressure to the belt allows the motor to continue driving the machine.

You may or may not be able to get the correct belt from NAPA. The pulley on both the servo motor and machine is a sewing specification type 3L, which is 3/8" wide on the outside of the V taper. However, I guaran-dang-tee that the dealer who sells you the motor will have the correct v-belt, which is totally smooth on the inside. The link belt you described will not play nice on your sewing machine. Just measure the original and subtract the number of inches difference in the size of the old pulley, versus the new one and allow another inch shorter for the motor being closer to the body than the original. Judging by the photo of your tall post machine and the big clutch pulley under it, you probably have at least a 45 inch belt now, meaning you'll end up with about a 3 or 4 inch shorter belt for the SewPro motor. If the replacement belt is too long, you can cut it to the right length, with the motor just above the middle position in the adjuster, then use a steel C clamp, for a treadle patcher belt, to fasten the ends together. Tension the belt downward for about 1/2 inch light fingertip deflection at the middle of its length.

Look or ask in our Used/Refurbished Sewing Machines forum. If you don't find anything suitable for your projects over there, consider buying a new machine from one of our esteemed dealers. All of them specialize in leather sewing machines. These are machines that are either specifically designed, or are modified to sew leather. When you say you intend to sew "mostly belts, holsters, knife sheaths etc," - you immediately rule out most of the lesser quality and medium duty machines. You are crossing over into the world of heavy leather stitchers. To properly sew thick leather, as is found in knife sheathes and gun holsters, requires a machine with a longer needle and higher pressor foot lift than a standard walking foot machines uses. The thread used to sew these items usually ranges from #207 to #346. I think you will find that many sewers of holsters and sheathes are using #277 thread. It is almost as strong as #346, but lasts longer on the spool and goes farther in the bobbin. One can usually use a #25 leather point needle with #277 thread, as opposed to a #26 or 27 for #346 thread. While you can sew holsters and sheathes on a big flatbed machine, it is not friendly to the leather if it is already shaped. That is where a cylinder arm machine that sews right on the end of the machine comes in handy. Shaped leather holsters, sheathes, cases and bags can hang over the empty left side, offering a nice flat surface for the stitch line. I have even resoled some shoes on a 441 clone. You don't get that on a flatbed machine. I predict that you will end up with a 441 clone machine, with an arm length of either 9 or 16.5 inches. You don't know it yet, but that is probably where your path will lead. If you are really brave, you may end up with a needle and awl machine, like my Union Lockstitch Machine.

A servo motor will require you to drill all new holes. It will NOT bolt into the existing four hole pattern. The holes are usually 1/2 inch diameter, for 3/8" carriage bolts and nuts..

A buck three eighty nine Not really. About $180 plus shipping of about 11 to 15 dollars.

Amuckart; I know that the dealers of both Cobra and Cowboy branded machines spend a considerable amount of time adjusting the machines they get from China. Some are in better working condition than others, when unboxed, but none should be drop-shipped to end users direct from the boat.. Steve Tayrien and Bob Kovar both put in all the time it takes to make sure that the machines they ship don't come right back as unworkable, or undesirable. I recommend that you contact these dealers and express your concerns to them. See what kind of deal you can get. Maybe they will go over them with a fine toothbrush for you. Once properly inspected and adjusted these machines should last a long, long time.

I looked into that Pfaff 1221 and found it to be a common household sewing machine. It is for sewing cloth, not large pieces of leather. It will take #69 bonded nylon thread and should use a #16 or #18 needle with that size thread. The feed is drop feed, with feed dogs. It has a static pressor foot and needlebar. While you "can" get it to sew leather, it will not feed it properly. If you use it to sew 1/4" thick veg-tan belts, you may convert it into a toaster. The stitch length will vary with the resistance of the material, against the feed dogs and pressor foot. If you convert it to a roller foot you may get 5 or 6 to the inch. , as described by a mechanic who rebuilds them. It appears that they are easily broken.

That motor is not a ServPro, but a SewPro 500GR. It is sold by Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (866-362-7397). The motor bolts onto the underside of the table, usually into the three holes from the original clutch motor. If your motor has three carriage bolts, in a long triangle; two on the left and one on the right, centered, this motor will drop in. If the holes are too far to the left, you will have to drill new ones, or buy a new table top; pre-drilled, cut-out and slotted. Since your external clutch has a 4.5" pulley and a SewPro 500GR has a 2" pulley, you will need a new v-belt, about 3 or 4 inches shorter (this motor sits closer to the table, losing one inch to start with). To answer your question about the motor's capability, yes, the SewPro motor will have more than enough power to plow through 3/8" of any leather. I have this motor driving my National N300 walking foot machine and it plows through 7/16" of leather, without bogging down or dropping out. That is with a #22 or 23 leather point needle.

The motor Kayak was calling the "ServPro" is actually named the "SewPro" 500GR. Our member dealer Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines sells tham at a good price, with a 2" pulley for leather sewing. I have this motor and won't sew without it. Some of the bigger, harder to turn machines have a speed reducer system installed between the motor and machine, under the table. This slows down the maximum speed to a much more leather friendly range of a few stitches per second. Without the 3:1 reducer the SewPro 500GR has 1500 rpm at full speed. If you want to keep your motor, measure the diameter of the output shaft. If it is 3/4 inch, that is the standard industrial sewing motor pulley diameter. Any sewing machine dealer can sell you a smaller 3/8" or 7/16" v-belt and pulley in 3/4 inch ID. Most leather sewing steups have a 2 or 2.25" motor pulley. Installing a smaller pulley necessitates buying a shorter v-belt to compensate for the difference in length from the original. That allows you to set the motor-to-machine belt tension in the mid range of the position adjuster bolt, on the bottom of the motor.

Random; Save your money and do what Art recommended. If you buy that machine in the picture and it gives you trouble (and it will), nobody is going to help you out of the jackpot, because nobody here has probably seen or worked on that machine. The description is in such horrible Chinglish I can barely understand the details,, as printed on the machine's web page. Can you imagine calling the company for help if it goes out of time, or jams up? Harrow. This Yum Yum sewing machines company. How I can herping you prease?

Kevin; Buy some industrial sewing machine oil, called Lily Oil. It is sold in quarts and gallons. Get a small precision oil bottle and keep it filled with Lily Oil. Replace the 10w30 with the lighter Lily oil. Make sure those wicks feed oil holes in bearings, which they should lead to. There is probably a master oil pad that the wicks plug into. Replace it with some absorbent material if it has hardened. Check all mashing gears to ensure that there is no foreign matter caught in the teeth. Also, make sure there is a tiny amount of clearance in all mating moving parts. Eventually, you should be able to spin the hand wheel easily, with the belt off. Use some emery cloth on the external clutch, to remove rust or high spots. That should make the action smoother as you feather the clutch. Good luck with your new toy! Post pictures, or upload a movie of it working to YouTube.

Like Luke said, get the 16.5" arm model, which for Cowboy is a model CB4500 or for Cobra, a Class 4. The first time you get an order for a full size Western style drop-holster, you will appreciate the longer arm! Right now, I use a Union Lockstitch Machine for my holsters, gun belts and weight lifting belts. It has 12 inches of clearance from the needle/awl to the body and sometimes, it just isn't enough for a flat turn. My next machine will have 16.5" of clearance. If not, it would be a waste of my money.

The photos don't show the pressor foot/feet, so it's hard to tell if it is a walking or snapping foot machine, or straight needle. The first photo, of the right side, shows what looks like an ancient external clutch, for the motor, but I could be mistaken. Aside from those things, it looks like it is in relatively decent external condition. You'd need to inspect it in person and maybe take some decent photos of the head area, where the feet, throat cover/feed dogs and needlebar are located, as well as the back or left side shot of the head. If you see in in person and test it and it runs smoothly, make an offer and see what it can do for you. I agree that the prices for the Juki's are too high. They sell for half that amount in the USA. You could buy a decent condition Juki LU-563 from one of our dealers and have it shipped to you, with a motor and table, for a lot less than those local machines. You could even buy a brand new Consew 206RB-5 for less, shipped!

Unfortunately, it is true. The take-up lever system, the shuttle and feed system, not to mention the various gears and bushings, are simply not beefy enough to hold up for long, under the pressure of sewing thick, or hard leather, with or without thick thread and a large needle. Add the #138 thread and a #22 or #23 needle and the pounding inflicted when penetrating 16 ounces of veg-tan leather will wear out the machine in very little time.