Wizcrafts

I second what JimBob told you about the SewPro motor. I bought mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and it is a God send. I used to hand wheel around belt and strap tips, with my well adjusted clutch motor. Now, I use the servo motor to sew at 1 stitch every other second, guiding the work with two hands. BTW: The SewPro 500GR from Bob Kovar has a 2 inch pulley. This really slows down the maximum speed, while multiplying the torque. My hot-rodded walking foot machine is now capable of sewing 1/2 inch of leather, at slow controllable speeds, without slippage, thanks to that little servo motor.

Polyester thread is for use on items that are often used in direct sunlight or water. It is primarily used to sew awnings, tents, car wash cloths, boat covers and sails. Bonded polyester thread usually has a UV coating to prevent discoloration in direct sunlight. Bonded nylon is a tad stronger and seems to be better bonded. It is used more often on items that are not left in the sun or that are frequently soaked in water. Nylon thread is cheaper than Anti-UV coated polyester. It is the staple thread of most leathercrafters with machines. There is one more type of thread I want to mention: Glazed linen. This is the cream of the crop thread that is used in shoe sole stitchers, and in most needle and awl harness stitchers. Many commercial holsters are sewn on needle and awl machines using waxed linen thread. When properly waxed, this thread will outlast the owner of the sewn goods. If one stitch breaks, the rest stay locked. This is why shoe soles are sewn with waxed linen thread. Most Puritan machines use waxed linen thread.

I apologize for assuming that Tat2 was trolling. This was not the case. Sometimes, things aren't what they appear to be.

Johanna; I hate to do this, but I believe that it is necessary. I have a Troll on an ad I placed in the Used Machines section of the forum. The topic is here - for a Randall R132 strap cutter. A member from Canada, using the handle Tat2 - is an equipment dealer and is challenging the (asking) price I posted and has just revealed that he sells a foreign made copy for much less. I take it that he is trying to drive traffic away from my ad, to his own store. I have no problem with people hashing out the nature of this or that machine, or who has the best package prices, where people are looking for basic information. But, this looks to me like out-right theft of my topic, by a dealer looking to sell his machinery at a lower price. I thought you should know. I couldn't find a name for the moderator of that section. Sincerely, Wiz Feinberg Name: Wiz UserName: Wizcrafts IP Address: 76.122.131.41 Email Address: leatherworks@wizcrafts.net

The value is high because the machine was built entirely IN THE USA, with AMERICAN parts and AMERICAN labor. There are very few machines left that are entirely produced here. I'm sure your Italian machine works fine, but what will it cost to add all the extra blades and spacers that come with this Randall? Does your machine have grease fittings on heavy sealed bearings? Anyway, you are a dealer, not a buyer. Why are you trolling on my ad?

A needle feed - jump foot machine is preferable to a walking foot mechanism, as long as the material is taped, stapled, tacked or glued together. A standard top-pivoting pendulum needlebar doesn't provide the same timing at 3/4" up as it does for the bottom layer. It is the physics of the pendulum that causes bigger stitches to occur on thinner leather than really thick work. On the other hand, a Union Lockstitch machine has a jump foot and true square drive needle feed. All layers move together at the same rate, whether 1/8 inch or 3/4 inch. Their brother-line, Campbell-Randall, are awl-feed machines, where the awl penetrates the layers, then pulls them back together (squarely). The needle only rises and falls on this type of machine. Either machine can lay a tighter stitch than any standard closed-eye needle machine. Both can sew with linen thread run through liquid wax. Their maximum thread handling capacity is 10 cords, left twist. That's like what is used on the soles of leather boots! On most needle feed machines there is still a lot of top pressure required to hold down the leather as the needle (or awl) begins to ascend. But, the pressure is applied to the sides of the needle hole, not directly over it. That's why there is less puckering on the bottom of a needle feed- jump foot machine. By matching a narrow slotted throat plate to smaller needles, one minimizes the bottom puckering on needle feed machines. In some cases the owner will have to have these plates custom made. Other times, the manufacturer may offer narrow slotted plates as an option. Union Lockstitch is one that has such plates as an option. I'm fairly confident that the Campbell-Randall machines also have a narrow slotted cover plate available. The same machines that can sew 10 cord linen thread into armor or hiking/combat boots can also be setup to sew 4 cord linen thread into show harness. I learned to do just that on a Randall stitcher, at Freedman Harness, years ago. At 10 stitches to the inch, using a #11/2 needle and 2 awl, the stitches were tight and beautiful, top and bottom. Walter Mitty would have loved to operate a Randall machine. All day long they go tapocketa, tapocketa! Anybody wanting more information about the Union Lockstitch and Campbell Randall needle and awl machines can contact Campbell Randall, in Yoakum, Texas.

No, I don't swap wheels. I tend to buy machines that have the best wheel to start with. But, if I need another hand wheel, I'll call "Toledo Bob."

I don't like that part about the knee lever lifter being out of whack. Tilt the head back again and fix the knee lever rod position. It definitely could impact your stitches if it is pressing against a shaft, instead of the roller it is supposed to push.

It's not your imagination Steve. These machines need to be broken in. The get quieter and smoother as they age and loosen up. Keep it well oiled between jobs.

Your top thread may have jumped out of the middle of the tension disks. The top tension adjuster may have backed off from vibration, or been turned without your knowledge. The needle might be too small for the thread you are now using. Assuming the bobbin tension spring is set to allow light pressure, the bobbin thread might be getting caught or jammed on the way up. Is it easy to pull the bobbin thread through the feed dog from the top of the machine? There might be a clump of thread in the shuttle

Absolutely!

Now that you have slowed down the speed of the motor and smoothed its pull rod operation, the next logical step would be to play with the free movement before the clutch engages. Loosen the big nut on the bolt in front of the output shaft. Turn the threaded bolt out to get more free play, or in for less. Tighten down the nut when you have it set to your liking.

I'd wager that "Toledo Bob" probably has the large 6 spoke handwheels for the 31-15 machines. If not, he can find another wheel with the same inside shaft diameter to mount it onto a 31 class machine.

Coitently! Read this thread to see how one member slowed down and maxed the torque on his upholstery machine, plus gained a huge handwheel.

I sew patches onto leather jackets and vests with a patcher machine. It is best to use #69 thread, with a #16 or #18 needle when applying patches. Make sure there is enough foot pressure to allow the teeth to pull the work the stitch length you have set. I use double-sided leather quality sticky tape to hold the patches in place while sewing them. Alternately, use barge cement to secure the patches to the leather. The usual procedure is to open the lining at the most convenient place that is inline with the area where the patch will be sewn. Feed the leather garment over the arm and make sure the lining is under the entire arm. Position the needle, drop the foot and start treadling around the patch. Go over the starting point a few stitches, then stitch back past it a stitch or two, then lift the foot and pull the material to the next patch, et. al, until you are done. If there is sufficient top pressure, the foot should feed the taped or glued on patch and leather together, without any puckering. The glue you are using must not be holding very well if the leather is able to shift under the patch, as you stitch. BTW: Please don't take this as an attack, but, typing entire posts in all capital letters is considered SHOUTING and is strongly frowned upon in normal forum and bulletin board Netiquette.

Here's my sticky article: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239 If the 29U172 is the same machine as my 29K172, it will sew about 1/4" of leather; maybe even 5/16" with the pressor foot at maximum lift. It can handle up to #138 thread, but goes a lot longer with #92 or #69.

You might want to order a service manual, with the parts list and adjustment specs, from Consew. It will help a lot if parts are needed.

What I see in the photos of the two wheels is that while the hand wheel is larger on one, the pulley isn't. That means that it will be easier to hand wheel the machine, but there wouldn't be any speed reduction, nor torque multiplication, if one swapped wheels. The only way to get slower speeds, with more torque, is to do one of the following changes: Change the original clutch motor pulley to a much smaller diameter pulley (with a shorter belt). Buy a speed reducing double or triple pulley to go between the motor and the machine. They mount under the table and add one more v-belt. They typically yield about 3:1 speed reduction and the same amount of torque multiplication. Replace the motor with a SewPro 500GR servo motor (& shorter v-belt). It has built in 3:1 speed reduction gears and a 2" pulley.

From your description of that machine, it hasn't really been reconditioned! It sounds like you will need to replace the needlebar needle securing screw. If the new screw doesn't hold the needle in tightly, the bar may need to be tapped to a large thread and hole size (with a new screw to match), or replaced altogether. The stitch length changing that much, on a relatively thin seam sounds like a loose feed dog, or a loose or totally worn out upper feed mechanism, or an unusually loose stitch length adjuster knob. You may be best to ship it to a qualified dealer on this forum, for professional repairs.

Guys, there's no need to fight over this. My friend asked me to post the machine for sale with his asking price, which is based on what he paid for the machine and the modifications to it. If somebody seriously wants to get this machine they should call him and discuss it with him and see where the price goes from there. He doesn't even have an email address at this time. That's why I posted the machine details for him.

Amen! If you really can't live with the bottom puckers, reduce the pressure on the pressor feet. If there is a pressor foot spring on top of the head, turn it counterclockwise, until it almost pops out. That is the point of minimum spring pressure. As long as the leather doesn't lift with the ascending needle, go with reduced top pressure. If the needle causes the leather to lift, increase the pressure until the leather stays put.

I guess that info can be found by searching the Simanco.com database on the model 269 machines. Or, ask dealers who sold them and still have some in stock. I gave you a phone number for one dealer who undoubtedly has various bartackers on his shelves.

Suem; I've seen those x tacker machines you are looking for. They are cam driven, just like a bartacker. They were/are made by Singer, Brother, Juki and others. The Singer model you want is a 269x...series. For instance, the Singer 269x999 produces two boxed criss-cross patterns: 1/2" x 1 1/4" and 3 1/4" x 1-3/4" Machines like this are plentiful since the closure of many textile and garment plants in the USA. Most industrial sewing machine dealers who sell to a variety of markets (not just to leathercrafters) have several tacking machines sitting on shelves, collecting dust. They were made to tack all day long, not sit and die. Call a dealer (e.g. 866-362-7397) and see if he has an old Singer X pattern tacker in stock. If the pattern dimensions are close to what you want, and the price is affordable, grab it. Oh, when you find your tacker and bring it home, put it far away from the spouse. They produce a wonderful racket, with a super loud CLANG at the end of the cycle!

You need to check it out very thoroughly before buying it for that much money. Here is your checklist: with the pressor foot up off the throat plate, see how much slack there is when you push and pull on it. You can test this by raising the lever on the back, or by lowering the needle, which raises the foot. If you can push or pull the foot more than about 1/16 inch, stitch length is going to suffer, especially if it can move 1/8 inch. rotate the butterfly knobs under the head, turning the then foot around 360 degrees. It should not bind in any position. Binding can be caused by a bent shaft, or the thread check spring just above the needle mounting bracket. examine the hole in the take-up lever for excessive wear. Thread actually cuts into the metal after decades of use. Make sure the mechanism turns freely when you rotate the flywheel. The rear mounted wheel must be turned towards you from the top (CCW). Make sure that the bobbin winder is attached to the back of the machine, under the hand wheel, and that is can be moved into firm contact with the wheel and locked into position. A worn or missing bobbin winder tire can be replaced. Open the throat plate and wiggle the bobbin shuttle. It shouldn't have much more than 1/8 inch slack. It is driven by a rack and pinion gear assembly that wears out over time. Test the machine to see if it sews properly, without skipped stitches and that you get at least 6 stitches per inch, on 5-6 ounce leather. The stitch length gets shorter as the thickness increases. At 1/4 inch, you may not get more than 7 or 8 spi, if the foot drive actuator is work out (see step #1). Make sure the treadle mechanism works smoothly and that the belt has sufficient tension to turn the machine. The belt is easily replaced if worn or missing. I would want to get at least one bobbin case and a few spare bobbins with the machine. THREADING ROD! If it doesn't have a threading rod you will need to buy one, to push the top thread down the needlebar. These old patchers use type 29x3 (round point) and 29x4 (leather point) needles. They are really only good at sewing with #69 to #92 thread. The bobbins are tiny and don't hold a lot of thread. If you try to load a bobbin with #138 thread and sneeze, you will run out of thread! Just kidding ;-) - but it won't sew very far with #138. Also, the pressure required to sew with #138 may stress out the feed mechanism.

Both the Cobra and Cowboy stitchers you mentioned will sew 4-5 ounce leather, with #69 bonded nylon thread, if you insert a #18 needle and lower the pressure on the pressor feet. You may have to increase the tension on the bobbin spring and reduce the tension on the top thread, to balance the position of the knots. The quality and construction of both brands is equal in my estimation, so I would see who offered me the best price and accessories package, shipped. Our members who have bought both Cowboy and Cobra machines are very happy with them. Both companies offer personal assistance on the phone, after the sale. Both stock accessories, needles, thread, parts, etc and have very similar pricing structures. Call both dealers and ask them to describe their machines in detail to you. Maybe one of them will offer something the other doesn't, like a servo motor with a bit of free motion before it engages, or stainless steel pressor feet and throat plates that won't stain moist veg-tan leather. Last, but definitely not least, both Bob Kovar and Steve Tayrien are great guys and knowledgeable sewing machine gurus. Your good money will not be wasted if you purchase either of these brands of stitchers.