Wizcrafts

Are you referring to the BUSM Pilot the O.P. bought in 2013? That was 6 years ago.

I don't usually direct members away from here, but in your case, I recommend visiting our Sewing Leather forum first. Ask questions and read topics and replies to get a better understanding of the thicknesses of wallets and the best sizes of thread and which needles to use to sew them together. Hand sewing is also discussed in that forum. Once you understand the techniques and thread/needle sizes vs thicknesses to be sewn, come back here for a machine recommendation. You may have to import a suitable machine if none are to be found locally. Importing is tricky business because you may end up having to do all the work of de-greasing, assembling, timing and adjusting the machine before it actually sews. In essence, you may become the "dealer" for legal purposes. That leaves you on your own if things go wrong, or parts are damaged, or you can't get it to sew. If possible, try to find a company, in your country, that produces leather goods. Such a company might be willing to share sources for machines with you. They may even sell you one of their used - but still functioning - machines that has already been replaced with a new one. But, beware of bottom feed, high speed garment sewing machines. They will be of no use to you as a leathercrafter. If it does come down to importing a brand new machine, complete with a table and proper (servo) motor for your electricity, stick to known brands, like Juki, Cowboy/Hightex, Seiko/Consew, Adler and Pfaff. Some of these companies may offer an option of paying a little more to have the machine setup with your desired thread and sewn off in a certain thickness of leather (within its capacity) before it is shipped.

Those machines are not built to sew leather. They are for sail cloth, marine vinyl and upholstery leather. They will not hold up if you sew veg-tan thicker than about 8 ounces. Sailrite makes a much better portable walking foot machine that has beefed up moving parts.

The only way you're going to get help on this forum is to post pictures of the motor and its path to the machine pulley. We are used to dealing with motors rated at 1/2 to 3/4 horsepower, not 1/15th. As for the type of motor you linked to, it is a typical throwaway household sewing machine motor and vari-speed pedal. They are sold by numerous domestic sewing machine dealers, rebuilders and enthusiasts. The price seems unusually low to me. I usually see these combinations sell for 50 to 70 bucks. I wouldn't trust or even plug in anything that cheap. A Singer patcher is best powered by a 1/3 HP to 1/2 HP motor.

Trivial. Change needle and thread, wind appropriate bobbins in advance. Tweak top tension and foot pressure to hold down thicker/denser leather, then back off for thinner and softer stuff. Use round point needles for fabrics and vinyl and use leather points for leather.

This Consew 206RB-5 is probably what you need.

I didn't mention the Janome because it is a bottom feed only, domestic sewing machine. We don't deal with domestic machines on this forum anyway, strictly industrial leather sewing machines. There are other forums where people can discuss domestic sewing machines.

These machines are slightly different designs. The CB3200 is a more limited machine in that it maxes out at 32 ounces, while the Cobra Class 3 and CB3500 (same build) max out at 7/8 inch. The 3200 is best limited to #346 thread while the Class 3 and 3500 can handle #415. Accessories The lower lift on the 3200 works against the stirrup and holster throat plates that stand at least 3/8 inch above the standard plate. This only leaves about 1/8 to 3/16 inch of sewable space over the plates. With the 3500 and Class 3, there is more than 3/8 inch clearance (almost 1/2") over the plates before you max out the alternating feet. The inner and outer feet must alternate up and down at least 1/8" to allow the material to feed as you sew. If they can't alternate, the work will either stall, or stitch length will become unpredictable and short. Finally, the Class 3 and CB3500 ship with a pedestal stand by default. The CB3200 comes with a U cutout table that is 48 inches long and one must pay more to upgrade to a pedestal stand.

You should keep a lookout for used but still functional triple (compound) feed walking foot machines that use Singer 111 feet. This includes the progenitor, the Singer 111w155 (and older w103 and w153). These machines are many decades old now, but were built to last. There are some decent clones from Juki (LU-562 and 563), Seiko and Consew (206RB-x), Mitsubishi, National and a myriad of Chinese and Japanese brands. These are upholstery grade machines and most upholstery shops have several. You may find one for sale in one of those shops. Be prepared to spend from $500 to $800 for a used walking foot machine that is in good working condition. Less expensive machines may require rebuilding and timing. Be forewarned that upholstery grade walking foot machines usually have an upper limit of 3/8 inch (or less) under the lowered feet and #138 bonded (nylon|polyester) thread. They are good for chaps. vests, jackets, signs, tarps, awnings, drapes, wallets, phone cases, dog collars, belts, seat covers, bags and

I want to mention that I have personal experience running Cobra and Cowboy 441 clones. We have a CB4500 in our shop and use it every day. While most jobs are at least 12 ounces, a few are thinner. I have to do a procedure I call Dumbing down a Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4, or similar harness stitcher to sew thin material with thin needles and thin thread. These are basically the same class of machine as the Artisan Toro 3200 and 4000: 441 clones.

Again, I recommend that you contact the company directly with your concerns. If they warrant that their particular machine can effectively sew from x thinness to y thickness, by simply changing needle and thread sizes, then you can either take their word for it, or request sewn samples ranging from 2 ounces through 72 ounces (sewn with the appropriate range of thread sizes). If it turns out to be so, post pictures and buy the machine (get the full details about the warranty and phone/email/chat assistance after the sale).

No!

Set the bobbin spring for a modicum of pressure on the outgoing thread. Balance the knots with the upper tension disks and thread path. The bobbin is too loose when loops form on the bottom of the work despite the knots being centered. I tend to run fairly loose bobbin tension most of the time. I only crank it up if I want the thread to be pulled deep and tight into the top and bottom. This puts a lot of strain on the take-up parts.

Bobbins are usually loaded so they feed against the direction of rotation of the hook and bobbin case. This means that their thread make a sharp reverse turn as it feeds out. When you start and stop quickly the bobbin tightens its thread rather than letting it loose. A lot of machines have star or round shaped springs inside the bobbin case to prevent run on. These are called anti-backlash springs. They can compensate for feeding the bobbin thread the wrong way, including on purpose for a smoother feed.

Since they sell direct, it is best to call or email them about the minimum thickness it can sew They are little wooden handles that screw loosely onto sewing machine handwheels (after drilling and tapping a hole) that let you crank the wheel with a handle instead of your hand on top of the handwheel itself. They used to be available for steering wheels and Barney Rubble had one on his car. They are usually found on the handwheels on shoe patcher machines.

Yes, but not from actual experience. However, I have Barney handles on both patchers and frequently hand wheel my CB4500 and Singer 42-5 around corners.

The correct designation of these needles should read: 135x17: #18, #20, etc., where 135x17 is the needle system, and #18, #20, #22, etc are needle sizes (diameters along the shank).

There is no size 17 needle I've ever seen listed. So, the OP either has 17 needles, or system 135x17 needles.

I believe the machine that best matches your specs, at the lowest out the door cost, is the Cowboy CB3200. The only difference is that it uses a barrel shaped bobbin that holds a lot more thread than an M or U bobbin. They have authorized dealers in Ohio and Texas. There are a lot of members who have this machine because it can sew with heavy thread into 1/2 inch of leather.

The needle - thread pairings are shown in the first and second columns on the left. For example, needle size 25/200 pairs best with #277 (T270) bonded nylon or bonded polyester, or 4 cord linen thread (~ .0231 inches, or .586mm). The .040 inch thread you mentioned is 1mm diameter and would require a #30 needle. It is bigger than #554 bonded thread. You would need a Union Lockstitch, or Campbell-Randall Lockstitch, or a sole stitcher to sew this size thread. The strength of lockstitch thread is that of the smallest thread if the bobbin is smaller than the top. Otherwise, it is as shown in the needle and thread chart under the "Break Strength" column. Thus, if you sew something with #277 bonded nylon thread, top and bottom, the breaking strength of each stitch would be 45 pounds lateral pull. A force exceeding that would cause a stitch to let go. I am not sure about the strength of hand sewn saddle stitches. It might be as strong as either thread, or both doubled up. It is outside of my purview. All I know is that is takes much longer to hand sew than machine sew. Most customers prefer to pay less for any given item than more, so we machine sew unless asked and paid to hand sew or do over the edge lacing.

I bought a Singer 168G101 walking foot post bed machine for a little over a thousand dollars, cash and carry. It sews with #207 thread if the post is properly adjusted to clear the larger #24 needle. I got a half size (20" x 33") table with it. I have seen them sell for more. Keep a lookout for that model, just in case.

Then look up Solar Leather Machines in Arlington, Texas, between Dallas and Fort Worth. They probably have or can get what you need.

Be careful when offering (pseudo) legal advice if you are not a certified commercial lawyer. Even if one is a credentialed lawyer, the laws would be different in France than elsewhere. Bad legal advice can be counterproductive.

Much of the difficulty people with domestic machines have sewing leather has to do with the bottom only feed. The same problems carry over when these folks buy industrial tailoring machines and get the same results. This happened to me when I first got into sewing leather. It wasn't until I learned about and acquired walking foot machines that I began getting the best results, especially when reaching seams that stop feeding with a fixed flat presser foot. Takeaway: Buy a walking foot machine with triple feed. Order it with a controllable and powerful servo motor and maybe even a 3:1 speed reducer for the utmost slow speed control. The Consew P1206RB is an excellent example of such a machine.

Note to responders: The pdf contains photos of his or her machine and model tag.