Wizcrafts

Check out these affordable and well spoken of Consew walking foot machines: Consew P1206RB Consew 206RB-5 These machines have large M style bobbins and can sew 3/8 inch with #138 thread. Since they are clones of the ancient Singer 111w155, they take the same commonly available feet. There are dozens of different feet, including piping foot sets, edge guide outer feet, single toe outer feet and feet with teeth (great for grabbing slippery vinyl).

Here is a link to a Landis 1 manual topic, posted by our member, Uwe, who scanned an original Landis 1 manual and posted it on the forum.

These old harness stitchers were made before synthetic thread was available. They were built to tension linen thread run through a wax pot containing hot or liquid beeswax. The wax hardens after a while, both inside the pot and on the thread. Waxed linen thread can withstand decades of use and abuse and still hold leather items together.

There is no comparison between an Adler 30 and a 205 series. They are entirely different animals! Yours looks like my model 30-7. The class 30 is a medium duty "patcher" for repairs to shoes, boots and purses and for sewing embroidered patches over pockets on vests, or onto jacket sleeves. That's what I do with my Adler 30-7. It is limited to no more then 3/8 inch of leather (models 30-7 and 30-70 only, using extra long system 332 LLG needles), with #138 bonded thread and has top feed only. A full "large" bobbin of #138 thread only sews about 5 belts, or guitar straps, or rifle slings around the perimeter. The Adler 205-370 and 374 are compound (triple) feed walking foot machines made to sew 3/4 inch of leather with very heavy thread. A full bobbin of #277 thread can sew three or four times as much as the large bobbin patcher. It can handle up to #415 bonded thread. The Typical 441 Juki clone is similar to my Cowboy CB4500. These machines sew at least 3/4 inch with up to #415 thread. They are much cheaper than an Adler 205. Sadly, Adler stopped building that series a few years ago. I would go check out the Adler before investing in the Typical. If the Adler is in good sewing condition, it is the smoother machine with better tolerances.

Right again. The Adler should be either a 205-370 or a 205-374.

O. I repent in dust and ashes!

If you can afford the Adler, buy it.

In a nutshell, there is a thumbscrew on a sliding tab that rides on the back of the legs that the presser foot mounts to. Raise the foot all the way with the hand lift lever on the back, then loosen the thumbscrew and lower the sliding stitch regulator block until it just touches the top of the raise foot. Tighten the thumbscrew. This setting gives the maximum stitch length your machine can produce in its existing condition. Factory spec is 5 stitches per inch into about 6 ounces of leather (a typical boot upper thickness). Make sure the pressure spring along the back is exerting pressure on the foot or the stitch length will be too short. The feed is done by the teeth on the foot under pressure from that long flat spring on the back. If the maximum stitch length is significantly less than 5 per inch, the feed motion bell crank needs to be replaced.

LOL. No, just tilt the head back to loosen the belt and lift it off the pulleys. Install the new belt with the head still tilted, loosen the motor position nuts, then set the head back upright. Adjust the motor position nuts to get about 1/2 inch deflection in the middle of the belt.

@Kim2000 There is no walking foot attachment for industrial sewing machines. A sewing machine either is or isn't a walking foot machine. Yours isn't. Make it clear in your ad text, wherever that ad exists, that this is a high speed machine for sewing garments and tailoring. That will eliminate buyers looking to sew leather and attract seamstresses and tailors who can actually put it to some use. If you want to sell it on our forum (unlikely), place the ad in the Marketplace section, under Sewing Equipment > Used. List your price and terms of sale and your photos. This section is for discussing leather sewing machines only. This is NOT a leather sewing machine.

Can you try this without leather or top thread in the needle? Try to isolate where the rubbing noise is emanating from.

The two you mentioned are fine for what you described as your intended work. Note, that the 2700 is limited to a maximum thread size of v138 and uses a "standard" G size bobbin. It is a light duty walking foot machine. I use mine mostly with #69 and #92 thread because I have a CB4500 for heavier thread and thicker leather. The CB341 is a heavier duty machine that has a larger M style bobbin and a hook that can handle #207 thread. The beefed up construction and bigger hook make it a good choice for a starter machine for projects 3/8 inch thick.

I get sewing machine parts and accessories from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

The problem with buying ancient sewing machines, especially those made for saddlery and harness, is that the companies have been out of business for many decades. Parts and accessories were sold off to dealers many years ago. Thus, if you buy a machine from the turn of the 20th Century and it needs a needle, shuttle, or a critical moving part, it may be made of Unobtanium.

Contact one of our Cowboy dealers. They can get any parts you need.

We have links on the bottom of the page to read the next unread topic. Most of us just click on it and have no idea what the topic is until it opens. That's why so many views but no replies. Also, you are asking about an ancient machine that probably very few people have, or have had.

#138 bonded thread is best used when the thickness is about 6 to 7 ounces. This is due to the diameter of the lockstitch "knots." Since you are sewing a single layer of 3.5 ounces, the otherwise well hidden knots are showing on the top. You have three possible solutions to hide the knots in the single layer. Use one size smaller needle to have tighter holes that make it harder to pull the knots to the top. Tighten the bobbin and top tensions to have tighter knots that may be easier to center, or place lower inside the leather. Switch to #92 bonded thread which is much easier to bury in 3.5 ounces, while only losing 25% strength. You'll need a #19 or 20 needle for #92 thread.

@bcklsh That Landis 12 machine is a shoe sole stitcher. It will probably only be useful to a shoe repair shop, or maybe a new shoe maker. It only sews around outsoles, like on dress shoes and Cowboy boots. You could lookup all shoe repair shops within a couple hundred miles and see if one of them will come and get it.

Here is a topic about reducing the file size and posting photos on the forum. I personally use FastStone Photo Resizer to do this.

If you want to list this machine for sale, it needs to go into our Marketplace section, under sewing and stitching equipment > used. You will need to post better photographs of the business area of the machine and your asking price, plus the terms of sale and location. Here is an example of a proper listing in the Used sewing equipment forum. Coincidentally, it is for the same make of machine you are dealing with.

Many monogramming shops are able to embroider onto leather jackets. You might check out a nearby embroidery shop to see what machines they use to do this. I am not up to date on the currently produced embroidery machines, other than Melco. I just saw a 10 needle, Husqvarna/Viking MN-1000 embroidery machine for sale at Joann Fabrics, in the Viking machine section. It looks good and sells for about 10k on sale (list is ~16k). The only concern I would have is the motor. Here is a video about embroidery on chrome tan leather.

I have a 1920s Singer 42-5 and no matter what I do it cannot sew more than 5/16 inch, which is about 8mm.

Here are some manuals for a Juki TSC-441. The CB3200 and its big brother the CB4500 are clones of the 441. While the 3200 has some differences in parts, the basics are the same. See if you can adjust the timing and lateral position of the shuttle and hook to get normal operation. TSN-421 & TSC-441Engineer Manual.pdf TSC-441 Instruction Manual.pdf TSC-441 Parts List.pdf Juki 441 Engineers Manual.pdf 441 reverse-forward balance.pdf

Move the needle clamp to the left until it clears the hook. Use the top screw on the clamp. Its hole is oblong to allow for sideways adjustment.