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pm sent. john

Thank you for the reply. How wide is the jaws on the weaver model? I thought about the stitching clams but they are really pricey. Just need something to hold larger items when stitching them. If you have ever stitched something big and had to hold it as you punched threw then you know how hard that can be on the hands after a while. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. John

Ok tried to contact weaver for more details. They didn't answer the phone or return my emails. Was wanting to know the jaw width and depth. But never heard back and could not get threw on the phone. I wanted to by one but there not answering the phone and not returning my emails so...... Does anyone have one that could give me the information. Also I read online a few people got them with cracked seats cracked down the middle. Not sure if I want to go there if there not going to give a better description or answer my questions. Any help would be greatly apreciated. I wish they sold the harness makers version. Where the whole jaw could be used for bigger projects. John

Sheridan doesn't have them in right now. Weaver has them in. Does anyone else have them? Just wondering if there might be someone that makes them cheaper. Weavers is oak with a pine seat. Seams odd but at that price you would think the seat would be oak also. John

Hi everyone. Just wondering if anyone still makes and sales these sit down stitching horses? I have looked around for one and couldn't come up with anything. I know Tandy has a pattern but don't have the skill to make one myself. Don't care to much for the pony's. Anyone know where to find one or someone who makes them? Please let me know. Thank you. John

Thank you for all the help. I really appreciate it. john

Tandy leather only made one gun caddy. came in a pistol belt pattern pack I think. Don't have a picture but will come up in a search.But no info on length of zipper needed. john

Hi everyone.I made one of these already a while ago and for the life of me can't remember the zipper length needed for it. If anyone has done this please let me know. this time I will wright it on the pattern so I don't foget again. thank you. john

Hey Bill good idea I will look into those. Mlapaglia I did think of that does sound good. I also had a weird idea of adding shocks in it. So when you undo the lock the lid rises on it's own. Not that I need that but thought it would be cool. John

The tools are placed in the photo right were I want them to be. I do not want to move the middle ones at all. Thought about velcro but not really what I want in it. The clips are a good ides but as mentioned they could fall out and I don't want to use them for that reason. I like the idea of the leather strap for the 2 rows on the sides. But aa I said I want the 2 in the middle to be straight up and down as they are in the picture. But the strap won't work there. My other thought was to not put them in the box at all and fill the area with a carved leather peice with a border and something inside it. Not sure what but that was my alturnative idea for the lid. But thank you all for your ideas and keep them comming I have not decided yet still working on sanding it down. I should mention the box is made from 3/4 red oak. 19 1/2 long x 5 3/4 wide x 7 1/4 high. All solid brass hardware. I really don't plan on carrying the box around. Just going to sit on the work table unless I have to move it for one reason or another. The project started over a year ago with an idea. I cut the boards from a log I got from a buddy who had cut down an oak tree in his yard. He had kept the log to sit on around his fire pit. But I got him to give iit up and then dried it out useing the solar kilm method. Cut the boards, stack them, then wrap in plastic making sure to put holes in the bottom for water to drain. Dried to about 25% moisture. They started off being 1 inch thick boards then plained down to 3/4. Honestly nothing differant then store bought lumber just took longer to get and a little more work. I just wanted to make the box for my tools but then desided to make the lumber to build the box to. Alot of trouble I know but I don't mind waisting a little time. The removeable board that goes inside to hold the tools will hold: 260 tools 1 hefty handle 3 swivel knives 4 slots for extra swivel knife blades 9 differant diamond chisels 1 Vguage 3 oblong punches 2 copper rivet setters 4 differant sized spot setters and a place for the setting block 1 needle holder ( made from a hand stitching tool. It was the handle that has a screw off lid on the handle. I just tore off the stitcher part and kept the handle) I never used it anyway now I do. And there is still more room on the board for more that is just what I have laid out so far. Thought I would add that. john

Your right did not notice that my mistake. The straps would work for the tools on the sides but not for the middle tools theyy have no room to move. john

mlapaglia at $8.60 each is kinda high for 1.and I would need 8 so that would really expensive. Was hoping to find a cheaper way. But if I could get those for ALOT cheaper then maybe. Anyone else feel free to add your ideas. Thank you all for the help. john

Anyone else have any ideas? John

thats a good idea. if I can find the right size. thank you.

The picture shows the lid of the tool box I am making and wanted to know if someone had some ideas that might help me out. I need help. Not sure how I canattach them in lid so they are secure but easy to get out when needed. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. John

Thank you for makeing and sharing this pattern. John

Yes I did finish the hat. But somehow I messed up and it was a little small. So I gave it to a buddy. I never took a picture but I am sure he can send me one to put up here. It looks nothing like the regular hat. I made changes to the top. It came out like a fedora on the top. I made it from 4-5 oz. I which it would have been 2-3 oz. Everything seemed right so when it came out small i was reallt disapointed. I don't think I will ever do another because of that. To much work to not be used. But my friend will use it at least theres that. When I get a picture from him I will post it. John

Thank you all for the help and information it is much appreciated. John

the ones I looked at said 2mm 3mm 4mm etc.Even Tandy's say's Pro Line Diamond Stitching Chisel 2 Prong (5/64" (2mm) Spacing)

for my normal stitches I use the large overstitch wheel to lay out my stitch marks. So would that be the 4mm?? I want to get the ones that are the same distance as what I am useing now.

Does it make the stitching easier?

I curently use an awl to punch my stitching holes. I am wondering about the diamond stitching hole punches. Are the shape of the diamond hole better? If so why? Does it make it easier? Any and information would be appreciated. John

I recently bought a Tandy cut corner belt buckle for a belt I a, making. It's my first belt. It's a ranger style belt made of 8-9 oz leather. I was unsure of the size hole to make and asked the guy at Tandy what size punch would work best. He said a 5/32 oval hole punch would work fine. But it seems small. The end of the prong on the buckle is flat and bigger then the rest of the bar. and does not seem right. Has anyone used this buckle and if so what size punch would work best? Please let me know thank you. John

Thank you Colt. That is one nice case. Alot of good information. Wow does that fur look thick. I want to make mine for my scoped Mauser bolt action rifle. I think for my rifle I might need to buy a side. I don't think a double shoulder will do it. But then again not sure. John

What thickness of leather do you use for yours? John