KnotHead

LOL... Thanks Megabit... I think... LMAO...

Hey all. I was doin a bit of edge lacing today. Actually I've been toying around with even messing with edge lacing. Well a week ago I decided I needed a new Key Fob. So I made one and this is what I am coming up with so far. It's not done and I really don't know if I want to continue with it or not yet. But anyway, the edge lacing is a variant of Ron Edwards fast back edge lacing. I got the instructions from Mike Storch my braiding mentor. He published this one in the APWA a while back. I think a couple of years ago. I have had this on my shelf to do for awhile but never got around to it. So what do you all think of it so far? B...

I so wish I could do that right now. It sure would be a welcome vacation for me. LOL... I would gladly exchange for sure. Thanks Rob... B...

LM. That is most helpful. I have documented this also. This will be very helpful in deciding how long, or which length to go with for my first set of reins. Thank you very much for taking time out of your day to post this. As well with all the other posts that are of great help also. I really appreciate the advice given so far and it has been very helpful in aiding me to decide and to plan this project out. Considering that I have never gotten the privilege to ride a horse, or be around the ranch world, or the tack and equipment. I greatly appreciate the advice. It's hard for me to braid such a thing when I have no experience with this type of equipment. It almost kind of feels like I am blind braiding something. Thank you all very much. B...

I really don't know how I missed that one. I must have been asleep or something. That did end up really nice. Gives me a few ideas too. B...

I reckon it wont come apart anytime real soon. That's a tough dog leash. I think the leash will out last both master and dog. You should post of photo of it. B...

Hi Melanie. Well, I think to start with we need to make this braid a bit easier and quicker. If you braid a 15 string braid it will take a bit longer and the sequence is a bit different. So, I will suggest to you that you cut one more string slightly smaller so that the string will fit in with the rest of the strings making a 16 string quirt. This will be to your advantage and it will be certain to cover the core properly and completely. The normal sequence and much faster one for a 16 string would be an under 2, over 2, under 2, over 2, under 2, over 2, under 2, over 2, equaling a 16 strand herringbone coded braid. This type of braid is a very forgiving braid an is easy to spot a mistake along the way. Now to keep the " V's " straight, I will either use a string and line it up straight with the core and pull the string up every so often to check for straight in the braid, or you could use a close line pin at the top end of your core or where you have the core attached and add pins as you go to keep the braid straight and true to the core. This braid once started can go pretty fast. The sequence can also be, under 3, over 3, under 3. That will produce the same pattern as the above just in a 3 pass type pattern. That one will also go fast once you have it the braid set, or the pattern started. Many whip plaiters use this same pattern or sequence to plait long bull whips. It's of course just my 2 pennies worth here. I imagine there are others with much better experience that can give you way more advice than I can. Have fun. B...

Hi all, @ Shelly; I have seen the TCAA collection online several times. I love going there and gazing at the braided rawhide work already done. While it is not my objective to have my photo in there catalog, I would love to make a very nice set of reins just to see how I do with my skills. It is more of a test of where my skills are than anything else. While after practicality, I am also seeking the art and beauty of the braid experience in this project. Therefore, the reason for asking for experienced advice and knowledge from my colleagues here on LW. Your advice and experience is greatly appreciated and if you don't mind I have documented the advice in my note book for later reference while building the reins. Thank you Shelly for you valued input and time. @ Leather Pounder; I live in the Pacific Northwest. So, I have no idea what they prefer to ride. The selling part is for a later contingent after I make these reins and have a bit more experience with making them. The ones I will make will most likely just end up hanging on my wall for show. So just making a standard size is probably the best bet in this case. Your advice and experience are greatly appreciated and if you don't mind I have documented yours as well to my note book. Thank you for your time. It is much appreciated. B...

Thanks roo. I appreciate the help. I have what you said documented for later looks while building. B...

Okay my fellow braiders. I have a question or two about braiding reins. I have a few styles that I wish to endeavor with. The first one will be the California Style Reins and I am not to sure what a Romal is. Please take into consideration that I have never been around horse or a ranch. So if some of my questions seem to be stupid, I assure you the questions are out of ignorance and lack of experience with horse tack. The reins I am making are mostly just for show and to see if I can make a really nice set of reins. I have all the proper measurements for this style of reins. This much is for sure. So I will skip past how much I will need. There is 1 question that does come to mind for me. In my books I have noticed that most of the instructions speak of the bit chains, both chain and braided. Now while I know what the bit is for, I don't know how long the standard bit chains are. The length of the reins would seem to depend on how long the bit chains are. Well it so happens that I don't have a standard bit chain to determine the over all length of the reins. So my question is this; Should I just go with a standard length of say 48 inches to 54 inches anyway? If this item were to sell, would that mean that the new owner would have to buy a new set of bit chains to match the reins and the fact of their riding comfortableness? Should I just make the bit braided instead of compensating for the bit chain? What is a Romal and what is it used for? I know. I am an experienced braider and these kinds of questions are probably not what you expected from me. But remember, I have never been on a ranch, or around horses or the tack. So forgive my lack of experience in this department of braiding. I am humbly ignorant when it comes to the tack and equipment used. Thanks to anyone who can help with learning me. B...

Nice work megabit. Picture 6 is a bit blurry though. B...

That was my aim. Thanks for all the kind comments. B...

I really don't have a clue about the shows, or the in's or out's of the shows. The construction of the back splices are about 4 deep into the leash itself and then wrapped with the 12 strand herringbone braid around the splices. I figure that should hold for a while. Unlike the person that made that leash like mentioned before, I back my work. I will either repair it, or replace it with a newer one and better constructed. I have not worked with any dogs that have gone to show, or do a regular every season show. However, it would be interesting to make a leash that matches the dogs color, or compliments the dog in away that is not obtrusive to the eye balls. Noticed but not seen. I think that makes sense. LOL... My objective in this leash was to capture elegance in simplicity. I only hope that I caught it. At least a little bit. LOL... Thank you all for you kind comments and encouragement. B...

Thank you all for all you kind comments and critiques. I was just thinking of something that struck me a little funny and got a giggle from it. " I sure hope that the leash does not distract the judges eye balls " .... LMAO... I started to giggle at that thought. I hope that someone else does to. B...

Wow. So many very nice artistic comments. I don't know which one to start with. So here goes the first one. @Kayla: All the lace is beveled. I use saddle soap as you do. I then let that dry out over night. To make the knots and the accented eye candy plaits(Red and black) I use a leather lacquer from Tandy. I do roll mine out also. I just don't have to roll it that much when done is all. @ 8thSinner: That white effect you see is inadvertently caused by the saddle soap. The hide is dyed all the way through. I did not do anything special to the hide or order a special hide for that effect. I am using kangaroo hides from Richard Taubmann in Australia. He supplies, like many of the Aussie farmers do; Packer Leather with kangaroo hides. All the strings are beveled. @ Spence: I don't have a coring on the inside of the long 4 strand plait. For the knots I used some waxed cord for build up and shaping. Then I used a super glue to harden the coring for the knot work to sit on. I love to bevel all my lace. I even sell my lace in 75ft tamales cut, beveled and split. I figure that if someone wants to experience kangaroo lace, they should experience the lace as I use it to make all my projects. This way if they make a choice to continue to use kangaroo lace to braid with, they have made an informed decision and with the right kind of lace done properly so that the braider has a chance to make their art properly. @ Mike: I don't get offended by critiques. I find them very useful in my daily adventure with braiding. It not only helps me attain a better braid. But also a higher level of quality braid work. I do agree with your synopsis on the flow of the plaiting and knot work. It would have flowed a bit better. I, however am still having an issue with the way the correctness of the knot sits on the plait itself. I get the insecure feeling of the knot coming undone, or sliding, or even loosening up and messing up the rest of the project while under use of the owner. I don't mind backing my own work. But if I don't have to repair something for a long time, all the better. But again, I am still working out my own style of plaiting and tying. My thing is when I'm putting that coring on the object is that, what happens if the damn thing comes apart. So, I over compensate in making the knot itself as secure as possible. LOL... If that makes any sense at all. LOL... I was thinking of adding a burner to it and discovered that the snap was a bit small for one. Knowing that determined my lack of use in this leash. Also, knowing that the regular dog handlers for show dogs like crumble up the leash in their hand while on the show floor for some reason that I am not aware of yet. LOL... I did not want anything to hinder the use of my leash by the handler. My objective was to create a functioning art piece much like the art pieces in the TCAA catalog. Located here: http://www.nationalcowboymuseum.org/events/tcaa/2010catalog.html Coming up to that kind of quality is my goal in all of my plaiting. It might seem to be a bit much for some others to grasp, or might seem to be selfishly arrogant of me by other braiders. But it is and should be the goal of all braiders to attain to that kind of quality and functioning use of all of our art pieces. I am forever hooked on braiding it would seem. I just can't stop now. It would seem I would rather feel the lace between my fingers and in my hands than go on a date with a female. LOL... I know there's someone out there that understands that. LOL... Thank you all for the kind comments. B...

This one is a consignment type leash going out to the one who sells them. 36 inches long from snap to handle 1/8th inch kangaroo lace all the way 4 Strand Round Plait 2 - 7part 6bight PK's 2 Split T braids at top and bottom in 12 strand round plait herringbone braid 1 Nickle type snap Colors; Red, Black & Whiskey Tan. B...

This is what the forum is for. I like what you have so far. Keep going. You're a good learner. As it is with any art you take up, " Practice, Practice and more Practice "... This is what it takes to become proficient with your own work. After a while of working your art, you'll develop your own feel and your own style. The twist in the Pineapple can be corrected before you start you interweave. The twist only occurs when the base Turks Head is not straight and squared up. If you pick the " V's ", or "X's " vertically in your turks head and straighten those out to line up vertically with each " V ", or " X " in your turks head base, then the pineapple will turn out straight also. Then put your turks head on the object you are working on and tighten the turks head down but not too tight on that object and then do the interweave. You'll see a nice straight and squared up pineapple that way. I know it take a bit more time to do it that way. But in the end it is worth it the time you're taking to tie it that way. Very nice work. B... PS; Keep a good note book of your learning experience and of the braiding you do. This will help you as the artist to duplicate those really nice projects later on.

Hi Annette. I will agree also with the others. But will add that you progress has greatly improved. Please keep braiding and practicing. As with any art it all takes time and much practice and with that time comes a keen eye to your own art. You'll start to develop better skills and habits to your own style. Stay on the road and be steady with practice and even you will see the differences between you starting work and the work that you progress into. B...

The necklace SOLD. I had it around my neck and it sold straight off my neck. LOL... B...

Thank you all for you kind comments. B...

I have been looking just about everywhere I can. But finding those types of box ends is not very easy. The ones you do find are just plain too large or too small in one way or the other. I think I found a place in the UK that might have what I'm looking for. I wont know until I order a few of them and try them out. Thanks for the kind comments. B...

In the Bruce Grant book on pg 75, 76(Plate 24) & 77. The thing you are looking at is called a Cincha. Hope this helps out. B...